Yampa – Day 3

Yampa River

So, if you’ve already read Day 1 and Day 2 of this blog about our trip down the Yampa, you may have noticed that Day 1 had a lot of detail, and Day 2 seemed to be off. The truth of the matter is that Day 1 was written years ago when the trip was still fresh in our minds. Today, it is May 11, 2018, and with four years between that river trip and now, much about what was occurring is lost somewhere in the back of my mind.

Yampa River

I could wax about the feelings that seeing these photos brings back, but as I write here on a one-hundred-degree-hot day at a Starbucks, I’m mostly at a loss to pen anything meaningful. This is tragic to me because, with other blog entries where I’ve captured an abundance of details pertaining to the day, I’ve always enjoyed reminiscing and having impressions come back to me that would have otherwise been lost forever.

Yampa River

And so it will be regarding Day 3 of our Yampa River adventure: many things I would have ended up sharing with you normally will not even be shared between myself and Caroline. I suppose this will have to end up being a photo album entry.

Yampa River

Now, where we could get lucky is if Caroline has memories tucked away where she could bring them out and add to my not-developing meander through this poor excuse. At this point, I might recommend to the reader to just skip the rest of the text that will follow, as it might just be more of the same. Then again, maybe the wife adds some interesting bits.

Yampa River

It’s beautiful, isn’t it?

Yampa River

Spectacular even.

Yampa River

This 180-degree curve in the river is “graced” by the Grand Overhang. These photos are not capable of conveying the scale of this landscape.

Yampa River

That’s Sarge upfront, and Willie (from Scotland) behind him; the other names are lost in time. While most of the rafts on our trip were rowed by guides, there was one paddle raft that could be rowed by guests, and every day, a few volunteers decided to experience the river under their own oar power. There is a guide sitting in the back, steering the craft and giving commands to the rowers as needed (usually when we hit white water).

Yampa River

I’m writing about an equal amount of description as one thinks about much of anything while out on the river, just taking in the incredible moments of being fortunate enough to even be in such an environment.

Yampa River

They say a picture speaks 1000 words.

Yampa River

You don’t have to go far before the landscape shifts again, and this corner looks a bit different than the previous one or the one ahead.

Yampa River

The road ahead is paved with perfection and elegance; you just have to put yourself on that path to find it everywhere.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Mantle Cave

Sandstone along the Yampa River

Patterns were meant to be studied. They are how we find our way through ourselves and the universe.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Granary

A change in scenery: we have left the river for a hike before lunch. River rafting is a bit like shampooing your hair: raft, hike, eat, repeat.

Yampa River

Try to find a better view for lunch. If you should be so lucky to have 100 incredible views for your midday meal during the course of your life, I’d think you were doing pretty good.

Lunch on the Yampa River

Knives and mayonnaise on a river trip to make sure we are having the complete experience.

Rafting the Yampa River

Stomachs full, it was not time for a nap, it was time to get back on the river so we could find another beautiful place for dinner.

Yampa River

This is the Tiger Wall, also known as “Kissing Rock,” and you can bet that all of us got the chance to step up while on our rafts and kiss the largest face we may ever kiss in all our lives.

Yampa River

Shortly thereafter, we encountered “the sporty rapid” here on the Yampa, Warm Springs Rapid. It was formed by a flash flood in the 1960s, and there are many stories about it because there were several trips in the area during that time. For us, the best part of this run for those in our raft was that just after I took this photo we got hung up on a shallow boulder that just kept us in place while raging white water rushed around us. Next, our boatman tried rowing us off our perch, and we tried to help by jumping around in an effort to shift the weight of the raft just enough so we could continue our trip downriver instead of having the water swamp our raft and push us into the churn. After a few tense moments, we successfully escaped our rock in the middle of white water, for which I was incredibly grateful.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

This is the second full can of beer Caroline has rescued from a river; what kind of luck is that? Yes, she drank it.

Camp next to the Yampa River

When you see boatmen gathered on rafts in this configuration, it means they are done for the day, almost. Between pulling into camp and making our dinner, they usually take about a half-hour to an hour to chill and evaluate the day, maybe talk about tomorrow’s plans.

Yampa – Day 2

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

Finished yesterday with a “minor” mishap. As we went off to sleep, we found out that my CPAP battery had given up its charge. Inexplicably, it simply appeared to be dead, and after the initial panic that I would be without my CPAP for the length of the river trip, we had to accept our new situation and hoped it would not interfere too much with the quality of our trip down the river. So far, so good, and here we are, all bright smiles and ready for whatever comes next.

Rafting down the Yampa

For something to happen, we must go forward in search of just what that will be. For those of us who have never been here, this is pure exploration.

On the Yampa River

Deeper into the canyons, our boatmen row while we indulge in the luxury of taking time to see our surroundings.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

Close-up detail of the cliff in front of us.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

The canyons and the rocks they are made from vary from corner to corner, and it is often the contrast between the types and colors that demand the greatest scrutiny.

Rafting the Yampa River

Those dark gray clouds portend something ominous in the distance. While it’s too early for a serious monsoon, it’s never too early for a good rain shower. Good thing that just a couple of hundred feet down the river can change your entire perspective; maybe blue skies are still going to arrive?

Kayaker on the Yampa River

We take an early camp so we can go on a hike; this is the view from where we are spending the night.

Plant life along the Yampa River

With our tents set up, Caroline and I wander around to investigate the area. The first plant to catch my attention was this juniper tree.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Sometimes, the beautiful depth of field and particular lighting are enough for me to post a photo to add visual memories to our journeys.

Plant life along the Yampa River

I could be mistaken, but I think this is a variety of sagebrush.

Trail for our hike along the Yampa River

As remote as this place feels and in spite of the fact that you can only get here by the river, there’s enough foot traffic to keep the trails clear and well-defined.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Just like I can never post enough photos of rivers, oceans, cliffs, animals, clouds, and Caroline, I can’t post enough of the plant life we find, either.

Panorama near our camp on the Yampa River

The sky grew dramatic and maybe even a little bit threatening.

Plying the Yampa River

It is warming the cockles to see a dory with its iconic form plying the waters in front of our camp.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Note: you can’t imagine my shock when here in the last 48 hours of 2023, methodically working through these blog posts and scanning for grammar inconsistencies and omissions, I discovered this, and the next two images had no text. There really is nothing to add as in the intervening years, we’ve not found any lost journals that could lend details to these days on the Yampa. 

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Not the loveliest of weather for a hike.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Good thing there are lovely flowers along the trail; they’ll certainly appreciate whatever rain they can capture.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Despite the looming clouds, our group decided to hike up to Wagon Wheel Point, which promised dramatic views over the Yampa. John decided to sit this one out because of his recently injured knee. Led by most of the guides, we hiked up the Bull Canyon Trail, which is relatively short but quite steep (about 500ft elevation gain in a bit over 1 mile). Once we had reached the canyon rim, we walked a bit further on what looked like an unpaved road to reach the overlook at Wagon Wheel Point. It was very humid but never actually rained, although there was lightning and thunder. Needless to say, we didn’t linger and turned around soon.

Plying the Yampa River

And then their travel companions brought up the rear as they went by effortlessly on the way to their camp.

NOTE: It’s now four years after we took this trip when I’m posting details for days 2, 3, 4, and 5. The brain is foggy, and while the pictures lend something back about the days, I’m left to a pure interpretation of them for the story. Caroline will have made a once-over on my writing by the time you are reading this and will have hopefully added some of her recollections, too. (May 9, 2018)

Yampa – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the put-in for the Yampa river

Here we are, set to go out on our third river trip, this time on the Yampa and Green Rivers. Yet again, we’ll be traveling with our favorite boatman, Bruce Keller, as well as river friends Steve “Sarge” Alt and “First Light” Frank Kozyn. We first met all three on our Colorado River adventure in 2010, and Bruce has since then also been our guide on the Alsek in Alaska. Our put-in today is at Deerlodge Park in Colorado on the eastern edge of Dinosaur National Monument. Unlike our previous multi-week trips, this “little” sojourn will only be five days long. At Deerlodge Park, we pack up our dry bags, find a personal flotation device that appeals to us, go through a safety talk, and before we know it, it’s time to get to the business at hand.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The brochure promised us plenty of sunshine, flush toilets, and feather beds. So far, our guides have certainly delivered on the first promise; we could not have wished for better weather. Back at the put-in, the terrain was relatively flat and for a moment did not portend that within an hour we’d be entering canyons, but here they are, and with their arrival, a rush of intrigue comes with this change in landscape.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The passage narrows, and it starts to feel as if civilization moves further away from us. While not as expansive as the Alsek and not as deep and broad as the Grand Canyon, the intimacy of the Yampa here in Dinosaur National Monument is already allowing me to feel like this place is of a size that I can take in and almost comprehend.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the water getting a little choppier, the sense of being somewhere wild grows within. The adventure of the trip starts to take hold.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Geological details surround us. This is about the time I started to dream of a trip without a schedule where we could pull up to the cliffside and examine the sandstone, look for fossils, or just hang out and bask in the location we are so lucky to be experiencing.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

It’s just past midday, and we’ll pull into our first camp early to give us plenty of time to set up our tents, build out the kitchen, do some exploring, or just chill out and enjoy the moment.

Lichen in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Our tent is up in minutes, and soon, we are out examining what’s to be found in our new neighborhood. Turns out there’s this gang of lichen hanging out, and while it looks soft and fluffy, looks can be deceiving. We also found a good amount of cacti giving us the stink eye, but no dinosaurs yet…..hmmm, I wonder if any of the other guests could be considered one?

Steve Alt (Sarge) and Frank Kozyn (First Light Frank) washing dishes off the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

That’s Sarge on the left and First Light Frank on the right; they are the official dishwashers on this trip down the Yampa. I just dare you to try to come between these two former Marines and their dishes. They even travel with their own gloves.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the rafts tucked away for the night and our bellies full, the only thing left to do was sit around a fire and talk. Like all first days out on a river, this one came with most everyone cutting out early and catching up on the sleep they’d been deprived of over the previous couple of travel days as we converged on Vernal, Utah, where the trip first organized before heading to our put-in this morning. It’s great to be out here on a river again, wondering what big adventure awaits us around the next corner.

Leaving America

John Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Phoenix, Arizona

Just as I picked up Jutta in Denver, she’s leaving for Germany through Denver too except this time Caroline is flying with her to make sure everything goes okay. This has been a relatively quiet trip with Jutta here in Arizona with us. No grand adventures, just a lot of hanging out in our day-to-day life. It was six weeks away from the cold of the German winter but she’s returning to two months more of that season when she lands in about 16 hours from now. This is strange to think that this is our last photo together in the United States. Of course, I’ll see her again in Germany but these visits to our home have filled her with so many indelible memories that it is a sad thought of not seeing her face light up with a giant smile when she sees the two of us waiting for as she makes her way off the plane and into the terminal.

Giant Crater in Arizona

Caroline obviously got the window seat on the way to Denver and snapped a few photos along the way including this shot of the Meteor Crater in Northern Arizona. She also had a couple of nice photos of the snow-covered mountains coming out of New Mexico into Colorado but without much more to write about I won’t be sharing this time.

Denver Airport

By the time they arrived, the ladies had to hoof it to the plane due to some reason or other and some delays that were going on due to heavy snow. In their haste, Caroline never had the opportunity to snap a selfie of them but with her own plane back to Phoenix delayed she hung out until Jutta was well on her way back to Frankfurt.

Boulder, Colorado

Boulder, Colorado

Took the day to drive up to Denver, Colorado, on a mission to pick up my mother-in-law, Jutta. Earlier in the year, she fell and broke her hip. While visiting her immediately after her surgery, we told her that if she worked hard to recover, we’d have her over as soon as she was fit. That time is now seven months later, but to make traveling easier for her and as short as possible, the closest non-stop flight was into Denver from Frankfurt, so here I am on my way.

Slow Drive

Somewhere in Colorado

Vague stuff here because this wasn’t added until February 2023. I know I stopped in Moab, Utah, on the way to Colorado, as I have quite the blurry photo of me standing in front of Steve Kenny’s old Ford Bronco with the Colorado license plate RUHAIRY. Our boatman from the Grand Canyon Dory trip back in 2010 was now working for OARS in Moab, so I stopped in to say hi. The photo is likely not too far from Boulder, Colorado, where I spent the night.

Denver to Rocky Mountains

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Before heading out of Denver this morning, I have another request from Caroline to satisfy, and that’s for us to visit the Denver Botanical Garden. You can rest assured that these orchids are not near our motel because our typical lodging arrangement is more likely to smell of cigarette smoke, stale beer, and a hint of urine and located where, at best, weeds might be growing. Where exactly we stayed is lost, lost, lost, as are many details about this trip to Denver because, once again, this is another of those posts that arise from a forgotten past when, for reasons beyond the timeline of active memory, there was nothing ever written or noted about this visit and so in 2023 I’m here at work trying to assemble something that might reflect relatively accurately about the events of the day.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Searching for something to say about the garden, there was a moment when I thought I wanted to claim it felt like cheating to photograph gardens and flowers as everything is already organized, but just as quickly as I entertained that idea, I realized that photographing anything is in essence configured in a similar way as whatever the subject matter aside from people and animals, the scene is presented as the scene is. Still, there’s something that has me feeling like I’m adding filler with no valuable caloric content, just sugary convenience.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

I spent nearly 90 minutes writing the previous two paragraphs, which could be more time than we even spent in the garden; such is the nature of scouring a mind, looking for any hint of impressions that might have been made a decade earlier. One could be wondering what the importance is of backfilling this stuff, and my answer is that without the photos up here, they are lost in the depths of my hard drive where we rarely, if ever, look back at the photos occupying those magnetic particles. Take this post where I’m sharing 17 of what I felt were the best photos on the day we were visiting Colorado. I shot 229 photos, and the majority of them should be tossed. The tedium of going through so many photos to reacquaint ourselves with memories would be cumbersome, while here on the blog, we can do a quick scan of a day to pick up the high points, and if we are so inclined, we can read a little something or other that might offer us a chuckle.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Maybe I have a small disconnect with flower gardens in that I’m not sure where they come from. Take this dahlia; where do they grow wild? After a little search, I learned they originate in Mexico and Central America, while roses came from Central Asia. I’d wager that my relationship with flowers was negatively influenced by the fact that in my childhood, I only ever saw them in stores and that they now feel like some kind of cultivar only created for human appreciation, kind of like chihuahuas.

Squirrel at the Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

While still at Wikipedia, I thought I’d look up something interesting about the squirrel, and well, there’s little that’s really interesting about this furry creature. But then, just as I was about to turn away, I gave a second thought to its name, which in Old English was Ācweorna, that gave way in the days of Middle English to Aquerne; both words are cognates of the German word Eichhorn. Look closely at the English variants, and you should be able to see the similarity. Obviously, we are not near squirrel yet, which would be influenced by the Anglo-Norman French word esquirel, which came from the Latin sciurus (which in turn is derived from Greek skíouros, which means shadow tail). For those of you who might not know much about the English language you speak, its origins are mostly found in French and German, with nearly nothing remaining of the original forms of English in the modern tongue we use.

Denver Botanical Garden, Colorado

Going out on a limb here by claiming this might be a magenta strawflower.

On the way to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

It was now time to head up into the mountains, the Rocky Mountains National Park, to be precise. For one reason or another, we opted to travel the southern boundary and enter through the western gate. Maybe it was meant to facilitate a loop around and through the park, but without afternoon photos, I wasn’t able to decide with any certainty. What I am confident about is that we had beautiful weather for our visit.

On the way to Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

I wanted to believe that this is the Colorado River but after chasing the road using Street View, I can’t figure out anything about the location.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Entering the Rocky Mountain National Park via Trailridge Road on the west side of the park just north of Grand Lake. I’m certain about this fact, as the rock layout of the foundation of this sign matches the Street View capture. Looking back at this 10-year-old image of me, I can better recognize the amount of gray hair that was appearing and realize that it didn’t happen as quickly as I sometimes fear. As for Caroline, and I’m sure she’ll disagree, she looks exactly the same, though she’ll point out that she now has about 30 gray hairs at the center front of her hairline; big deal because I now start looking like Santa Claus.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Thanks to the good ‘ol internet for reminding me that we are at the Continental Divide in front of Poudre Lake. By the way, you may notice here that the weather is changing. Look closely and you might catch a whisp of a rainbow that’s over the small lake right near the short here.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

We are in front of the Alpine Visitors Center

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

Hunting for sunshine and blue skies limits the direction I’m taking photos. With the change in conditions, you can bet we’ll have to plan on a return visit to capture the vistas under optimal conditions.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

While faint, there’s nothing wrong with double rainbows to brighten the heavy clouds marching in.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

We never expected that our visit would turn into a trip to the Rainbow Rockies.

Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

The elevation up here is no joke, with me getting dizzy every time we step out of the car. Hopefully, upon our return on a future visit, we’ll opt to stay in Estes Park in order to acclimatize to the heights of this national park.

Clarks Nutcracker bird at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

What a perfect example of the Clarks Nutcracker that posed for minutes, striking various stances for me to capture its elegance.

Caroline Wise at the Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

To the astute reader, you might recognize that this photo of Caroline earning her Junior Rangers badge was at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center, which is near where we entered the park, and that would be correct. It’s placed here at the end of the post, as I felt it was a good closing for this entry.

Following our visit to the Rocky Mountains, we likely drove back to Denver via Estes Park and then headed towards our hotel in Aurora. We dined at a Ted’s Montana Grill around the corner from the ALoft at the Airport. Afterward, we returned to our room because, at the break of dawn the next day, we were catching a flight back to Phoenix so that Caroline could go directly to work.