Shifting Palette

Socorro, New Mexico

The odd pairing of the 20-year-old and the man with some seriously gray hair continues as we’re about to surpass 24 hours of these two guys traveling to places familiar to one and relatively unknown to the other. We woke in Socorro, and I got to learn how Carlos is a true lover of sleep and wakes only reluctantly. No matter, we were quickly gone and traveling south, though there was a good chance we’d not find what I was hoping for.

Bosque Del Apache in Socorro, New Mexico

People traveling ready to accept that they might not arrive at their expectations are already winning because they know that no matter what is there or not there, they can simply be excited about being there. We have arrived in the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge that hugs the Rio Grande, and while beauty is obviously on hand, the hoped-for large flocks of wintering birds have already fled the coop.

Bosque Del Apache in Socorro, New Mexico

Before reaching a herd of maybe ten deer, we’d seen an eagle, an owl, a couple of hawks, a lot of ducks, and various other birds, but even with my zoom lens, there was no capturing of a worthy photo of any of them.

Bosque Del Apache in Socorro, New Mexico

The main pond is quiet while I try to describe to Carlos what a November day looks like out here when 10’s of thousands of birds are still on the water just before the sun pokes over the horizon.

Bosque Del Apache in Socorro, New Mexico

A small handful of Canadian geese were present; they flew in but weren’t here for long. The snow geese and sandhill cranes apparently just left in the past couple of weeks, according to a local who’s out here frequently. The season is over, and with such low numbers of birds, we skip the south pond and begin our trek north to Santa Fe, New Mexico, after we dip into Sofia’s Kitchen & Burrito Tyme only because El Camino is closed. Breakfast is decent in this little diner, and should you dare try the Two Smothered Breakfast Burritos plate, be prepared and carry a big appetite with you or know that you are leaving with lunch.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return in Santa Fe is the sole reason I’ve brought Carlos to this city. We’ll spend hours here.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The curse of foreknowledge was playing its hand here as I struggled not to say a word or offer guidance about which way to travel this maze buried in the carcass of an old bowling alley. Carlos would be left to lead the way and discover the 70-odd rooms that exist here.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

I recommended that he try to leave the camera alone so he might better fall into immersion within the House of Eternal Return. Do not be distracted by documenting your experience; try to dedicate every bit of attention to the ornate and intricate world that’s been crafted here, and I’ll try to provide some worthy memories that will travel with you into your future. This advice might seem to contradict my constant refrain of being a proponent of documenting one’s life, but on occasion, we must allow our senses to be fully captivated.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

“What are you willing to risk?” This might be the question Carlos is working on within his head as he explores a wider universe where everything from everywhere is meeting all at once at the crossroads of his imagination and curiosity.

John Wise at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Hello, I’m John Wise, your personal guide and knowledgable emissary on this adventure into places unknown. Without the use of drugs, magic, or hyperbole, we will explore the boundaries of potential boredom with the occasional glimpse into the extraordinary, but to get there, we will have to traverse the edge of space and time. Fortunately, for the experienced host, these feats are easily played and delivered because, with 45 years of contemplative thinking and vast amounts of firsthand know-how regarding delving within one’s self, you will effectively be guiding yourself deeper within. From here out I will no longer be known as King Caca Fuego but will go by Captain Potentiator.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Carlos has suited up for his deep dive to continue his laborious journey to discover just who he is and exactly where he’s going.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Praying to the Yeti God proved a non-starter, but it did tell Carlos of the Central Brain of Meow Wolf that would be found in communing with the all-seeing eye powered by the magic rat.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Carlos, have you been able to connect? The wavelength is not always easy to unite with; yes, the struggle is real, but where the will paves the way, you will find the enlightenment you are seeking.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

“John, is this the cave Socrates spoke of?” No, Carlos, but all the same, don’t look too deeply into the shadows whose siren song will seduce you into taking up residence on that couch from which you may never escape. Remember, always keep moving.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

These iterations are the metaphors for the transitions, stages, and spaces you will inhabit in the coming years. The lesson is to embrace the peculiarities, go with the flow, kick back, and enjoy the ride.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Is that enlightenment down there?

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The partial mask appearing as a silhouetted face is, in actuality, a portal to another dimension through the interior of the fluorescent green half-human/half-alien skull. This secret artifact that was loaned to the creators of Meow Wolf is the reason the old bowling alley is called House of Eternal Return. When one travels into the light, time will cease being linear as you spread out in all directions, connecting with the quantum everywhereness of being. Be careful, though: should you crawl through this membrane intellectually unprepared, you will be simultaneously booted right back, unaware that you’d gone anywhere. The prepared mind is a tricky thing to cultivate; it requires a discipline the universe favors. Most are doomed to look upon all they consider to be reality and never once understand that their myopia is like kryptonite to awareness. Should you find passage into this kind of tractor beam of potential enlightenment, though, you will be slung into contact with the great intelligence before returning to this house, where you may always return to find the unknown.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

These are just pretty pulsing lights with a bunch of knitted stuff trying to trick people into thinking this is the secret portal to other dimensions.

Carlos Guerrero at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

It was at this moment that Carlos realized that the version of himself looking back at himself was in fact, having an expression on his face that was not the expression Carlos was currently making. Quantum-Carlos was signaling earthbound-Carlos to wake up, find the intentionality he knows he’s only now starting to harness, and get busy knowing himself.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

And then we headed into old town Santa Fe, where Carlos picked up a few books, took some photos, and we walked across town to get dinner because that was all that was left to do with this day. Well that and go to sleep.

Changing Perspectives

Carlos Guerrero and John Wise leaving Arizona

These strange fellows are about to cross a vast delta of time between them as this 20-year-old guy and a nearly 60-year-old man leave Phoenix, Arizona, on a road trip that will be all about getting out of routine and expectations. Curiosity is the bridge that connects Carlos and me. When I first spoke with him, he was carrying a copy of Les Fleurs du Mal (The Flowers of Evil) by Charles Baudelaire that I’d read around the time I was his age. This commonality opened a door, and soon we were talking about literature, philosophy, and art. After some months of the occasional chat during his breaks at Starbucks or even while on shift, he quit to take another job, and I was certain our connection would be lost.

Highway 60 in Arizona

As Carlos was about to move on down the proverbial road, he asked for my number which I thought was quaint though a bit silly because we live in America, disconnected, not just from one another but from ourselves. I entertained him by giving him my number and wished him good luck. Obviously, he reached out, which I found peculiar considering I’m three times his age, which would imply a chasm of cultural distance between us. Ah, this must be a one-time anomaly to satisfy his curiosity about cameras (he had spoken about his interest in photography before). When we met, he asked about must-visit places in Los Angeles and enquired about a restaurant recommendation in Phoenix where he might try something out of the ordinary. I sent him to a local Peruvian restaurant, told him of Kinokuniya bookstore in Little Tokyo over in L.A., and suggested he temper his expectations of what he thinks he needs regarding camera gear until he knows if he has a real interest or if it’s a passing fancy.

Carlos Guerrero off Highway 60 in Arizona

After a few of these kinds of meetings, I gave Carlos an old Canon camera body I knew I would never use again and lent him a lens for him to try his hand at capturing his world. Over some weeks, I’d swap out lenses with him so he could experiment with different perspectives. We talked of possibly heading out for a day of photography, maybe even a weekend in Los Angeles. A week or maybe two would pass before I got another text message asking if we could meet up as he had questions about something or other. This continued until a little more than a week ago when he asked if my offer to travel was still open. Five consecutive days had opened up in his work schedule, but I had to let him know that there was no way I was going to L.A. for that period of time: I’d lose my mind – those days in Southern California with the traffic I’ve grown to abhor would pummel me. However, I told him if he were open to somewhere random, we might be able to work something out. His answer surprised me; it was a simple and concise “sure!”

Little Colorado River near Springerville, Arizona

Here we are on the first day of that five-day outing, hoping we might fall into some flow or else we’ll be doomed to end this expedition shortly after its beginning. This inkling of doubt nagged at the back of my head because how in god’s green earth (black & white in this instance) would a 20-year-old deal with hanging out with a potentially grumpy old man stricken with ugly fixed habits and a general intolerance for bullshit? On the other hand, how would I deal with an impatient and possibly petulant young man I only knew from brief encounters at a nearby Starbucks? About the path we’re taking, it was just a dozen hours prior to our departure that I fixed on one of two potential directions: north or east. We are heading east, and at this juncture in our trip, we are crossing the Little Colorado River near Springerville, Arizona, on U.S. Highway 60.

Near Springerville, Arizona

How appropriate, a young buck in nature and a young buck in my car venturing into nature. This deer is looking over his harem, which is off to the right and out of view in this photo; I have no way of knowing what he’s thinking. In one of the images above this, Carlos is walking through tall grass; it was here that he shared his first epiphany of sorts with me: he was struck by the rolling hills, the winds driving the grasses in patterns reflective of the air currents, and how far the horizon stretching beyond his purview. He voiced his wish that he could see what was beyond the hilltops, so I pulled over to a gate without a “No Trespassing” sign, and off he went to the other side. When he returned from looking into the mystery, he expressed a sense of awe. Maybe this guy won’t annoy me into taking him home as soon as tomorrow morning, after all.

Carlos Guerrero at the New Mexico State Line

With his display of potential, we entered into another state, quite literally. Carlos was about to visit New Mexico for the first time and put on a face of excitement. I guess it’s part of the generation gap and will contribute to my own learning experience regarding what modern youth is about. While a polite smile would have sufficed, anyone could wear that, and now this moment will forever be frozen into the story of Carlos as he crossed a barrier to finding himself elsewhere and that this was the appropriate gesture for entering new territory, physically, experientially, and intellectually.

Quemado, New Mexico

His enthusiasm quickly came crashing back to earth when I explained that we were going to squat in this abandoned motel in Quemado, New Mexico, because not only was it free, but there were still a few amenities that would make our stay comfortable.

Quemado, New Mexico

I chose this room for my young companion because I felt the eagle above the bed best represented his potential to lead a life free to soar over the world he’s yet to create for himself. Yet it appeared that Carlos may not really be ready for true adventure because I found it impossible to convince him to enter this liminal space. Was it the threat of what might be hiding around the corner in a bathroom of unknown surprises? Come on, Carlos, I plead, it is this sense of liminality that will have you finding another essential part of who you are. For those who would like to understand this idea without interrupting my riveting tale of personal growth by consulting a search engine, I offer the following:

In anthropology, liminality (from the Latin word for threshold) is the quality of ambiguity or disorientation that occurs in the middle stage of a rite of passage, when participants no longer hold their pre-ritual status but have not yet begun the transition to the status they will hold when the rite is complete. During a rite’s liminal stage, participants “stand at the threshold” between their previous way of structuring their identity, time, or community and a new way (which completing the rite establishes). — from Wikipedia.

Quemado, New Mexico

Hey Carlos, is that the sound of panic creeping into your voice as you ask if I’m really going to take these Dollar Store Christmas Mugs? Of course, I’m going to take these great souvenirs; the alternative is to visit some sickly bright gift shop somewhere and buy stuff neither of us needs. Might as well collect some free things to mark the first day of our adventure together. Hey, you wondering, too what’s through that doorway in the background on the right?

Quemado, New Mexico

There was no phone signal out here, and racing over to the payphone to call home for a rescue proved futile for him. In what crazy universe does one believe payphones are still a thing?

Quemado, New Mexico

Oh drats, the local diner is closed, too! I guess we’ll just have to bag a dog or something for dinner, but don’t worry, Carlos, I know how to prepare just about anything. Heck, I got you out here, didn’t I?

Quemado, New Mexico

With his vacation quickly turning dark and the worries of his mom possibly coming true, Carlos felt he needed to reconnect with the god he’s been neglecting, so off we went to the 24/7 local Catholic Church. Appropriately enough, it was Sunday, and he was able to pray and beg for his salvation. I don’t exactly know where his imagination was going, but he asked me to share the following with his mother:

May this Communion, O Lord, cleanse us of wrongdoing and make us heirs to the joy of heaven through Christ our Lord.

Dead Coyote on Highway 60 in New Mexico

Oh look, we’ve found dinner without having to lift a finger trying to capture something fresh.

Pie Town, New Mexico

We left the alternative dimension of Quemado (translation: burnt) and Carlos’s nightmares behind and headed to Pie Town. Certain that winter spelled NO PIE for us, I was surprised to find the Pie-O-Neer Cafe open. Seriously surprised because I had been certain this place was shuttered after being up for sale for quite some time. Alrighty then, we need to step right in as they were “Open For Our Pleasure.”

Carlos Guerrero in Pie Town, New Mexico

Carlos explained, “Yes, this is, in fact, my face of pleasure. Do you have a problem?”

Datil, New Mexico

It was now time to remind my young travel companion that he had foolishly entered New Mexico with me, the home of Roswell where the aliens be. Just behind that large dark cloud is the mothership about to whisk him away for the kind of probing that will defy his worse fears, even those he was entertaining back in Quemado when he thought I might be serious about staying in an abandoned motel. Strangely, he was calm about the whole thing, telling me he felt nearly complete after enjoying that apple/green chile pie with homemade vanilla ice cream back in Pie Town.

Datil, New Mexico

All that was left was for me to tap into the VLA (Very Large Array) here in Datil to inform my overlords that the initiate was ready and happy to join the aliens for whatever adventure awaited him. Hours earlier I had been thinking I may not get along with Carlos in the long run, but now I’m almost sad to see him go.

Datil, New Mexico

This may not have been a Great Story, but it’s the one I mustered all these days after our road trip into unknown territories. At least as far as Carlos is concerned. Had I been taking notes during our outing, I might have had some factual details that didn’t veer into absurdity, but this is all I have.

Carlos Guerrero in Socorro, New Mexico

Hopefully, dinner at El Camino Restaurant in Socorro will be the elixir to revive me and allow color to return to our world. We’ve driven 376 miles to arrive in the middle of nowhere, which seemed like a great idea to me when planning this trip, but looking at Carlos here holding his head in despair, I have to question my thinking about this itinerary. Maybe it’s just an age-gap thing?

Ethel Cain

Ethel Cain at Valley Bar in Phoenix, Arizona

Closed out our day today with a live performance by Ethel Cain at the sold-out Valley Bar. First up as the opening act was Colyer who turns out to be the co-writer of Ethel’s song American Teenager. During his short 30-minute performance, we didn’t know of his connection to Ethel nor did we know that he’d be playing guitar during her set. Colyer seemed to be channeling Chris Isaak with a bit of Leonard Cohen sprinkled in (according to Caroline) and for me, it was a mix of Teddy Pendergrass and George Michael: slow vibes, and smoky sensuality for the shoegaze crowd.

Ethel took the stage to wild enthusiasm from the audience, and I can’t emphasize enough, seriously wild enthusiasm. The roar in this tiny 500-person venue reminded me of the kind of scream reserved for those who are on their way to superstardom. While I could be mistaken, I think Ethel opened with American Teenager which resonated with many in the crowd who are still a lot closer to their teenage years than us two oldies that were in attendance, probably looking like chaperones for some kids we brought. The rather short set closed with Crush and, as the old proverbial saying goes, “…the crowd went wild.” It was obvious that this was the most popular song of the evening if that is judged by the number of audience members singing along. Sadly, the encore was but one song, likely due to time constraints of this being an all-ages show and the bar needing to get to other business after kicking out the kids

Aaron Coldblood, John Wise, and Caroline Wise at Valley Bar in Phoenix, Arizona

Walking out of the venue we ran into Aaron Coldblood who we’ve not seen in a few years. Nothing has changed with Aaron, well except that his old dog passed away since we last saw him. We learned that Aaron has been wearing the hat of DJ most recently organizing shows here in Phoenix but with the possibility of a gig starting over in Vegas. His shows focus on industrial, Witch House, and something else I can’t recall. While you wouldn’t guess it from Aaron’s gruff exterior he’s quite the sweet guy who seriously loved his old dog, enjoys drives on the Pacific Coast, was brought to tears at a recent Tori Amos show and was nearly moved to tears by Ethel this evening, what a romantic.

First Ever Digital Group Selfie

Uwe Schmidt, John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Olaf Finkbeiner in Frankfurt, Germany around 1990

Back in December of 2005, the first year I was blogging, I posted a scan of a black and white printout of this photo. I told the story of how the digital file was long gone, lost to the age of the Commodore Amiga and the passage of time. The image was captured in 1990 using a method that the digitizer wasn’t really intended for, by focusing on living things that might move during the capture process. Because there was no way possible to manually turn the color wheel to red, green, and blue (which allowed the digitizer to capture each color channel separately) between capturing shots while we remained frozen in time, we picked one of the filter colors and ended up with a black-and-white image. We printed it with a dot matrix printer and somehow that piece of paper stayed with Caroline and me during our move from Germany and then survived 1o more years in the United States. Now here we are, 30 years after we took our very first digital selfie and today Olaf Finkbeiner (the guy on the right) sent me a copy in color. While Caroline never had purple hair, I think this is simply amazing. On the left is Uwe Schmidt (Atom™), then I in the background, Caroline, and of course Olaf. The skull is named Anton and he still resides with my mother-in-law Jutta who has agreed to take him to her grave when she passes. I cannot forget to give credit to Jo Lincke for putting in the work using Photoshop’s Neural filter to help restore such a beautiful memory. And while I cannot be certain, I can at least confidently claim that this is probably the very first digital group selfie ever taken!

King Coffee Roastery

Happy couple Nicky and Randy at King Coffee Roastery in Phoenix, Arizona

When the quality of life means nothing in the face of economic pressures to perform in the quest for greater and greater profits, the luxuries as perceived by those comfortable with a service will have to suffer as their favorite places of business give way to the corporatized franchises that pander to a banal population looking for conformity over something unique and different.

Ethan Cook at King Coffee Roastery in Phoenix, Arizona

Sure, tastes and attitudes change, but the sad disappearance of those places where friendships develop between customers and staff grows more and more common, or maybe I’m waxing nostalgic for something I’m imagining as I am failing to find those new mom & pop shops as I become fixated on the places I habitually return to.

As I take time to write this post in the closing days of the life of King Coffee Roastery on Union Hills Road in Phoenix, Arizona, I look fondly upon the relationships I’ve made with customers such as Nicki and Randy in the top photo, and I appreciate Mike, the owner of the shop, who gave people like Cross-Eyed Ethan an opportunity to overcome his sight handicap as he nearly always missed pouring various liquids into the cups they belonged but no one could say he wasn’t entertaining in some seriously strange way.

Dakotah Mein (barista) and Natasha Peralta (barista) at King Coffee Roastery in Phoenix, Arizona

The situation here a week ago was that the shop was going to close, and that was that. In the intervening days, a buyer happened upon the scene and while King Coffee in this location will cease to exist, something new will be taking its place. As far as the regulars are concerned, I’m sure that many of them will continue to frequent the shop as, obviously, it must have been convenient for them, aside from having a product they enjoyed. And maybe some faces will remain familiar as a couple of current employees might be able to stay on, such as Dakotah and Natasha.

Sadly, or maybe fortunately, Caroline and I will be traveling on King’s final day, so there will be no sad goodbyes, and now that we have learned about the transfer of ownership, there may not be much change of much at all regarding the idea of a coffee shop still operates in this space. Monday after our return could be an interesting moment when I meet the new owner and start finding out if the culture of my current favorite coffee shop will mostly remain the same or evolve. Mind you, evolution, in my view, is a good thing, while extinction is just bad news.

Caroline Wise at King Coffee Roastery in Phoenix, Arizona

After all the years of me coming to King, most often in solo mode, Caroline joined me in order to try a waffle that she had been admiring last week prior to our trip down to Ajo and Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. While I visit King to not only gab with other regulars but to try and get some writing in, Caroline enjoys the slow coffee at home on weekends, the quiet to read and knit, while somewhere in there, she carves out the time to call family in Germany so this is one of the rare days she hangs out with me at the coffee shop.

Each time I order a coffee here, I earn a King Coffee loyalty point; the count had grown to over 300 when the imminent closing of the store was first announced. Today, I’m down to about 150, and it’s unlikely I’ll be able to cash them all in. When I started amassing points, I was reluctant to trade 9 points for a free 10th cup because I wanted to support the operation. On occasion, I’d throw another customer a free drink, typically a student, someone who could use the free gift. While I’d prefer to just let the points drift into the universe, Mike, the owner, encouraged me and others who’d done the same to use them before they closed up shop or changed ownership.

Roaster Mike at King Coffee Roastery in Phoenix, Arizona

Meet Master Roaster Mike, the Boss. Over the years, as I’ve relied on Mike to act as my version of the bartender therapist, he’s indulged me patiently by listening to the stories I was bent on sharing with him that likely rarely made sense and simply distracted him from getting work done. Sure, I did my best to ignore his gestures and silent pleas for me to wrap things up, but anyone who’s known me understands that I’m pretty adept at ignoring social cues and am able to continue going on for many minutes, never returning to the point of my discussion before I’ve totally lost the person. What I’m most amazed about regarding Mike’s resilience was that he’d often appear almost interested, and this could be after he’s already powered through what looked to me like a solid dozen shots of coffee and maybe a couple of espressos. How he himself didn’t blabber on, overwhelming my conversation is beyond my comprehension, or is this truly my superpower where I’m able to ignore all that might compete with me to tell me their story?

So, what was special about King Coffee Roastery that other coffee shops are missing? Well, my answer is going to go full-corn: it was love. Oh my god John, seriously, you are going for that cliche? Sure, many people visiting an independent coffee shop will say it’s that they aren’t corporate, or the coffee has a distinctive taste, or whatever. For me, hot, bitter caffeinated liquid in a paper cup and some wifi might be some generic lifeblood, but what other places are missing is the evolving flow of love that moves through places where, for a time, synchronicity opens a space in the continuum, and the people who move in and out of the front door are carrying something that lends a special air to the environment. Life in these places isn’t simply transactional; it is life-affirming, and I’ll be sad that this one has to give way to financial motives that have no room for love.

Val and Larry Watkins of Phoenix, Arizona

Speaking of love, I’ll close this post with a photo of Val and Larry Watkins with whom I’ve shared many a conversation over the years. This happy couple of more than 31 years, while not daily regulars, drop in at least a few times a week. Hopefully, if not here in a new incarnation of King Coffee, we’ll all continue to meet somewhere nearby in the following days and weeks.

Deep In The Hoodoos

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Nineteen degrees (-7 Celsius) is cold by most people’s measure, but that’s what greeted Brinn and me as we took our things to the car before breakfast, a car frosted over with ice. Lodging, dinner, and breakfast, were nothing of special note unless noting relative mediocrity is worthy, which I suppose with even having written this made it all noteworthy.

Looking at this overview at Sunset Point on the first steps down the Navajo Loop, it’s easy to be caught breathless by the magnitude of spectacular beauty, and yet the services surrounding this natural phenomenon are heartless utilities of banality built for people of no discernment. I do not mean to imply that I want to see 5-star luxury and Michelin-starred restaurants, but what is here is a testament to the fact that people with low expectations stay in the area. What’s missing? Reasonably priced glamping, cabins with barbecues along with a nearby grocery trading in at least a few fineries, restaurants that don’t serve the lowest common denominator foods pulled from SAD (Standard American Diet).

I looked into renting an e-bike for a half-day, and WTF? The local rental place wanted $59 for a half-day, which is only $4 cheaper than a 3-day rental up on Rügen Island in Germany, right on the Baltic Sea (the cost for a full-day rental was only $22). Also, the battery range for e-bikes in Germany (we also rented in Frankfurt) is 50 to 62 miles on a charge, while the range for e-bikes at this Bryce location is 25 to 40 miles, and the path from the shop to the park is 17 miles in one direction, so maybe you’ll have enough power for the roundtrip.

Then it dawns on me: only provide mediocre services so the nature of the place appears even more valuable compared to the ridiculous expense and horrid culinary experience had in the nearby town. Okay, enough lament; on with the beauty.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

In an instant, the affront to my sense of the aesthetic is washed away like the soil that at one time must have surrounded these hoodoos. Spires, a.k.a. hoodoos, are what we came for, and now was the time to immerse ourselves in amongst them instead of just standing over their grandeur, snapping a few photos, and moving down the road.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Half of the Navajo Loop is closed for the season due to the potential for ice covering the trails on Wall Street as that part of the path is known. Well, for me this was a great deal because this meant a new trail for me. On a previous trip, Caroline and I had taken the Wall Street leg of Navajo Loop and continued on the Queens Garden Trail to Sunrise Point.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Little did I realize back on our previous hikes (I believe we’ve done this twice before, but I’m sure Caroline will have the better memory, so look for her note – Nah, I think you’re right – C.) just how different this branch of the trail would appear. It’s immediately and abundantly clear that, after more than a dozen years since our last visit, I must plan a return visit for my wife and me and stay more than a half-day so we can hike the Peek-A-Boo trail we’ve never taken.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

It falls on my head as though Thor’s Hammer had struck me: because we had taken the other side of the Navajo Trail, we’d only seen this feature from above, and that other side of the trail doesn’t offer anything at all like this view. By the way, this rock feature is known as Thor’s Hammer.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Also, regarding my head, but also my center of gravity that appears to smack dab in the crack of my torso found at that southerly spot of my backside, my sense of vertigo appears to grow worse with age. The unseen photo down this canyon that is on my right, just out of sight, is a series of steep switchbacks that are triggering this fear of heights.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Then, down near the bottom of the trail, it appears that we are on nothing more than a common forest trail. Oh, while verifying a few things for this post, I saw the Fairy Land Loop Trail is the longest trail in the park at 7.8 miles and would seem to imply that I’ll have to carve out an additional day for Caroline and me if we are to include that one too. If we were to wait another dozen or more years to return to this park, I’d have just hit my  70s, and I can’t be all that certain I’d be able to knock that out. Do things while you can is my motto, all the things!

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

See human for scale!

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

And before you know it, we are on our way out. Sadly, this is not a ride at Disneyland with some people mover ready to carry us back up the 47 stories it’ll take to reach the rim again. Come to think about it; I’m happy this is not owned by Disneyland with rides where the masses could crowd this spectacle of nature with minimal effort.

Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

Not the best photo of Brinn I’ve taken, but it’s certainly the best I’ve ever taken that includes his shadow.

By the time we were getting off the trail, all we could do was drive, drive, drive, as we were looking to get back to Phoenix earlier rather than later. Okay, we did stop for a slice of pie at that “Ho-Made” joint called Thunderbird Restaurant at Mt. Carmel Junction in southern Utah, but after lunch, we were in agreement that pie would have to wait for a future visit, which is just as well as Brinn was here with me, not the person he’s in love with and of course I wasn’t here with Caroline so his pie experience will have to wait.

Sure, we were in a hurry, but could I really skip taking any photos on the way home? Nope, and so the world’s largest dream catcher is my stand-in for representing our path back to Phoenix, which is the same route we just took yesterday on our way up.

This concludes our quick two-day jaunt covering 900 miles of sightseeing and Brinn’s first-ever visit to Utah.