Los Angeles with Jutta – Day 2

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

Don’t neglect your stories because 10 or 20 years later, you might find yourself browsing your memories and looking at a sequence of photos, you’ll discover that nothing much of those days still exists from the depths of your head. I’m writing this in early 2022, having just stayed at the Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, so it is a no-brainer that our day started here, but the details are remote.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

With that landmass in the background, I can be assured that Caroline and Jutta are standing on the beach in Santa Monica north of the pier, but that’s about it.

Jutta Engelhardt in Santa Monica, California

To make my task more difficult, I’ve gone ahead and chosen 19 images to include here; not that I’ll have enough to write about the day, but I like what I captured, and they do remind me of those days we made our first visit to the museum just below.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Here we are at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

I can’t believe we could have chosen a more beautiful day to be here.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

An early “Talk to the Hand” sculpture.

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Please excuse the following images for not having anything noted about them, but, to be honest, I got nothing…well, aside from inspiration, respect, and admiration

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Getty Villa in Los Angeles, California

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at Daikokuya Ramen Shop in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

I’d recognize this tiny shop in the heart of Los Angeles in a second; it is Daikokuya Little Tokyo, which, in my narrow opinion, has the best ramen on the west coast of America.

Niko Pueringer of Corridor Digital in Little Tokyo Los Angeles, California

At the time of our visit, I was a huge fan of the work coming out of the YouTube channel Corridor Digital, and as luck would have it, I ran into this guy, Niko Pueringer, who was waiting on a to-go order. Shamelessly, I asked to snag a photo of this minor celebrity; what they were doing with special FX and short storytelling I thought was genius.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Taking up our nosebleed seats way in the back, yep, that’s the wall about four rows behind us. Before explaining the reason for our attendance, let me share a tiny bit of nostalgia about the Shrine Auditorium: the scene in the 1933 version of King Kong where Kong breaks out of chains while being exhibited on stage was filmed right here.

Mahler Performance at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California

Now, on to the really big show, and I do mean REALLY BIG! Caroline, Jutta, nor I have ever attended a performance that featured 1011 people on stage, but that’s what Gustavo Dudamel has assembled before him as he conducts Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 8, and we were on hand so that we even got tickets for the extravaganza was a bit of a minor miracle.

The Musical Instrument Museum

Jutta Engelhardt playing the Theramin at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Mom and daughter time makes way for me time. Dropped the girls at The Musical Instrument Museum at 10:00, wished them well, and encouraged Caroline and Jutta to take their time, enjoy a nice lunch at the cafe, before calling me to pick them up. While they walked the halls of the museum and listened to just a fraction of the instruments on display, I took off to celebrate that the next hours would be all about me! I would need that time, as tomorrow Caroline will go to work and Jutta and I will have the entire day to spend together. From the smile Jutta wore while playing the Theramin, I can only guess these two were enjoying themselves. Sorry, but there are no photos of me having an equal day of fun. Hmmm, as I now write this, I do not have the faintest idea what I did to spend my time productively, if, in fact, it was in any way put to good use.

Jutta Engelhardt playing the drum at The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

An obvious trend is developing as a potential hobby for Jutta – drumming. On a previous visit, Caroline suggested we take her mom to a drum class with an old friend of ours, Frank Thompson. Reluctant at first, Jutta fell into the rhythm and thoroughly enjoyed herself as Frank taught us some basics. Now here at The Mim, Jutta is again, getting her groove on. Maybe we should pick her up a set of bongo’s to take back to Germany?

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in a self-portrait at The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

A picture worth a thousand memories. After more than seven hours the call came in, “We are ready to go.” If there is one regret during these visits between Caroline and her mom, it would be that there aren’t more days like this with such happy photos and big smiles.

Another Perfect L.A. Day

Caroline Wise enjoying breakfast at Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Los Angeles is one of those places where you can feel like you have a purposeful life as a part of the city, that your existence is intertwined with the culture that surrounds you – as opposed to a city where you simply exist as an element within the hive. This was our first visit to Zabie’s Neighborhood Cafe in Santa Monica, and the owners welcomed us as though we were familiar regulars coming in as we would on any other Sunday; you won’t find that in Phoenix very often.

Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Caroline and I both ordered the Whole Grain Pancakes but couldn’t choose if we wanted blueberry, strawberry, or banana, so we asked for all three, and that is what we got. Breakfast at Zabie’s was perfect, starting us off on the right track to enjoy our Sunday.

On the south side of the pier at Santa Monica beach

It was still too early to do much in L.A. – even in go-go Los Angeles. So there was but one thing to do, head on over to the beach for an early morning walk in the sand and surf. In a few hours, as the day warms up, this beach, like most others along the southern California coast, will fill up with worshippers of the sun. My preference is for a quiet walk on an uncongested strand where, for a moment, the beach is an idyllic island setting, and it is all mine to enjoy.

A stop sign with a sticker attached below the word stop, it reads, "Eating Animals"

Free parking is not always easy to find in L.A.; as a matter of fact, just around the corner from this stop sign that asks us to “Stop Eating Animals,” we saw our first parking meter that allows the use of a debit or credit card in addition to coins. We kept on driving into the neighborhood and found an empty parking spot free of charge. Approaching this stop sign, we saw a placard outside a small duplex advertising a two-bedroom unit for rent. I called the number to see what they were asking for, $2,400 a month; I choked. We pay less than a third of that in Phoenix – one of the main reasons we put up with our desert town.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

Years, it took years for Caroline and me to finally make the time to visit the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd across the street from the La Brea Tarpits. Every time we drove past this small museum, one or the other of us would sound off the reminder that one of these days, we need to stop in. Today was that day. On the second floor is where the exhibits begin, the museum typically hosts two artists or themes. For three and a half months, the second floor would be dedicated to a bug art exhibit by Jennifer Angus, titled: All Creatures Great and Small.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

When you walk into the main space, you don’t immediately recognize what you are looking at; it doesn’t even look all that striking from a distance. Then, as you approach and start to see the details of what makes up the exhibit, you are struck. You are looking at insects. Brightly colored and arranged in patterns or made up in scenes within the cases, filling in for what might normally be figures in a dollhouse. Extraordinary and fun.

The artist occupying the third floor was Ann Weber; her exhibit was titled Love and Other Audacities. Ann weaves together large sculptures created from found cardboard. We should have started up here as her work is really nice, but being overwhelmed by the exhibit a floor below, it was hard to change channels from shock and amazement to interest and subtlety.

On Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California

From the museum, we needed to make our way over to the downtown area of L.A.

Wurstkuche in downtown Los Angeles, California - a hot place for an exotic sausage

Time for lunch on our unfolding perfect day. I read about Wurstküche on a blog some time ago. They have become somewhat famous and very busy. The line was longer before I snapped the photo, but then once in the lobby, it snakes through there before you arrive at the cash register and place your order. We split three sausages, the Mango Jalapeno with chicken and turkey and the Rattlesnake & Rabbit with jalapeno – this is one of their signature sausages, and it was yummy. The one sausage we didn’t really enjoy was the Vegetarian Mexican Chipotle. It was too spicy, and we love spicy, but there have to be other outstanding characteristic flavors besides just hot – this sausage didn’t cut the mustard. We also split an order of Belgian fries glazed in white truffle oil with two dipping sauces, the first was Bleu Cheese Walnut and Bacon, and the other was Chipotle Aioli. Caroline topped off her lunch with a rare find, a bottle of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg, Germany – a smoked beer.

The 2nd Street Tunnel in downtown Los Angeles, California - made famous by a scene in Blade Runner

Over to 2nd Street for a drive through one of our favorite landmarks in L.A. – the 2nd Street Tunnel. If you don’t remember this sight, think Blade Runner, Terminator, and recently the movie Transformers. We have, on previous visits taken a moment to go over to Union Station, another location used in Blade Runner. One of these days, we’ll visit the Bradbury Building, where many of Blade Runner’s interior shots featuring J.F. Sebastian’s apartment were filmed.

A Royal Paulownia in bloom street side in Los Angeles, California

When you live in a desert, splashes of unexpected colors can be startling. We were meandering through the downtown area as we were not in a hurry to get to our next location. Along the way, we came across a bunch of Royal Paulownia trees in bloom – WOW. Our destination was Mitsuwa Marketplace at the corners of Centinela Ave and Venice Blvd. There is a Japanese grocery that also features four or five small restaurants around an open court, and a Japanese bookstore is near the entrance. We stopped here Saturday night with the hope of eating at Santouka Ramen, a highly rated and super popular ramen shop, but we arrived shortly before they closed. As we just had lunch and weren’t hungry, we wouldn’t be eating at Santouka today either; we were going back for Caroline to check the bookstore for their collection of Japanese craft books.

We had come back out towards Santa Monica and West L.A. because we had reservations for the eighth-row center at 4:00 p.m. at The Landmark Theatre on Pico Blvd for a showing of The Tree of Life. This and the Burmese food were the main reasons for our weekend trip to southern California. I was nearly certain that The Tree of Life would not play in Phoenix, or if it did, it might play in near-empty theatres for a week and be gone. As it turned out, the movie ended up playing in Phoenix for almost two months – who knew? Yes, it was worth it, driving to L.A. for a movie – we loved it.

Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood, California

After the movie, we took a drive through Hollywood. By 8:30 p.m., we were getting hungry again, but with so many choices of small, funky restaurants, it was hard to choose one. We had considered Korean in the Koreatown district but kept on driving, looking for something really different. Then, at 8:58 p.m. on a Sunday night, we spot this place called Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood. Drats, it’s 8:58. They’ll never seat us, but we’ll try anyway. Hey, no problem, come on in and have a seat – we are open until 12:00 a.m. Big frowns ensue for the city we live in because nothing is open past 9:00 p.m. on nearly any day of the week in Phoenix. I’ve stated this before on my blog: I am not vegetarian, Caroline is, but that doesn’t stop me from enjoying something different, and for most of the country, vegan and vegetarian is as exotic as finding the cuisine of central Africa. This place rocks, we split the Cha Cha Pumpkin – worth coming back for. The other dish is lost to forgotten memories, but it must have been good, too, because we both want to go back.

Now, this was a perfect day.

Art and Influence

John Wise in front of the Ensor House and Museum in Oostende, Belgium

One of Caroline and my first trips together was to the Belgian coast, a place I often thought I would like to live. In the small town of Oostende, I brought Caroline to the James Ensor House and Museum. I had been here once before and now wish I might once more have the opportunity to visit again someday. The dearth of interesting museums dedicated to the work of evocative artists here in America leaves a lot to be desired. For example, we visited the Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and it’s just a big old office building commandeered as a drab resting place for some of his work.

Caroline at the enterance of the Paul Delvaux Museum in Koksijde, Belgium

The next stop on this trip was my third visit to the Paul Delvaux Museum. Along with Otto Dix and Francis Bacon, Delvaux was one of my favorite artists. On my first visit, a visitor who was also enamored with the work of one of Belgium’s greatest artists told me that the man himself had been at the museum just the day before. He described the most piercing blue eyes and fragile, lithe fingers that impressed this visitor with the idea that those hands had created such beautiful works of art. This stranger was back for a second visit with the hopes that Delvaux might make another appearance. Delvaux was already 90 back then on my first visit; he would live another seven years before passing on in 1994.

The MIM

Musical instrument display from Bolivia featured at The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Two days after our first concert at The Musical Instrument Museum we took the better part of a Sunday afternoon to explore the museum itself. For $15 each we were soon outfitted with a headset, encouraged to take photos (without flash, of course), and to enjoy our visit. Your visit starts in a special exhibit before riding the escalator to the second floor where the grand self-guided tour begins. On our right, an entryway takes us to the musical heritage of Africa and the Middle East. It is up here that the headset becomes indispensable. As one moves toward the displays of regional instruments and video screens playing films of local musicians, the headset picks up the sounds. This is obviously going to take some time.

Boat Lutes on display at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Next up Asia, across the hall Europe, next door to that, the Americas. Not all of the displays are finished, some are yet to begin. There is obviously some video still being prepared. The museum is a work in progress. A staff member tells us that the displays will change from time to time as they are in possession of more instruments than can be displayed. We try to go slow and look at each region, each country, each instrument, but it is soon apparent that we will not be able to take this all in over the course of one visit. The openness of the displays is amazing, nothing is behind glass; we are offered the chance to closely inspect what in some instances are quite well-worn and old musical instruments. Stopping at the Burmese display to learn about the instruments whose music has become familiar to us is fascinating. The size of the Gamelan instruments from Indonesia is unbelievable; we look forward to the return visit when the displays from India are more complete.

Costume on display at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

The videos help round out and explain musically what we are seeing. In some instances, clothing or tools are featured to lend atmosphere and a better sense of the context in which this instrument is used or how it came about. I especially enjoyed the exotic nature of the many instruments that are foreign to my eyes although not always a stranger to my ears.

Caroline holding a Burmese Harp at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

The Musical Instrument Museum features a cafe with a nice selection of world-inspired dishes as you rest your feet between exhibit halls. Also on the ground floor is a hands-on try it, bang it, pluck it, yourself room where Caroline picked up this Burmese harp to sample what sounds emanated from its workings. I waited patiently for the kids to finish with the giant gong so I could have a whack and with a tap moved my ear close to enjoy the resonating sound. The MIM is open seven days a week and from what we understood, the displays should be complete within the next couple of months. Highly recommended.

Out Of The Frying Pan

Jutta Engelhardt in the hot spring pool of Shoshone Inn in Shoshone, California

This wasn’t our first time soaking in the hot spring waters that emerge out of Death Valley and spill into this pool near Shoshone Inn where we were staying, but the other night under the stars, it was impossible to take photos as it was so dark and it was too cold to even consider it. Jutta was a bit apprehensive to get out of the warm car after we changed into swimsuits that night and bristled at the idea that she was going to get in a pool when it was nearly freezing outside, but as we scurried through the gate and moved fast to immerse ourselves, a sigh of relief and awe went up from the three of us, luxury.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise in the hot spring pool of Shoshone Inn in Shoshone, California

While we weren’t staying at the swanky accommodations found at The Inn at Death Valley, we had the indulgence of these incredibly cozy, beautifully warm waters all to ourselves.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt on the Nevada Stateline Highway 372 heading to Pahrump

After a hot breakfast at the Crowbar Cafe with Jutta furthering the indulgence to the start of the day by having strawberry-covered pancakes, we were once again on the road and before long were crossing into Nevada to visit a place that was on Caroline’s and my bucket list.

Yucca forest in Nevada on Highway 156

One doesn’t drive through a yucca forest and simply admire them, one gets out of their car and communes with them.

Mt Charleston area in Nevada

While visiting snowcapped mountains wasn’t on the itinerary, how could we leave somewhere as extreme as Death Valley and not contrast it with images of the winter Jutta was missing by being in America with us?

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Mt Charleston in Nevada

We are up in the Mt. Charleston area just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise making snow angels on Mt Charleston in Nevada

Of course, we got Jutta to fall back into the snow to make snow angels with her daughter. How often are you going to convince a lady near her mid-70s to do something so silly? Just five years ago, we had Jutta out in New Mexico making sand angels; click here to check out that day.

Mt Charleston area in Nevada

Mt. Charleston on a perfect day.

Liberace Museum in Las Vegas, Nevada

Speaking of contrasts, here we are at the item I mentioned from our bucket list, and the last reason for us to ever visit Las Vegas again is the Liberace Museum.

Update: on October 17, 2010, the Liberace Museum closed and never reopened.

Liberace Museum in Las Vegas, Nevada

Jutta had no idea who this guy Liberace was and Caroline only knew due to her time here in the States and learning about all the cornball stuff we’ve fetishized.

Liberace Museum in Las Vegas, Nevada

Well, now we’ve been here and done that: so long, Las Vegas, we may never see you again…at least until the next time.

Hoover Dam as seen from Arizona

If you were to look back at last year’s visit to the Hoover Dam when we stopped on our way to Death Valley, you might think these were the same photos. It’ll be another month before we travel with Jutta again, which is relatively extraordinary, but we have invited her to stay 83 days with us, with most of our focus on her experiencing what our normal day-to-day kind of life is like. She arrived back on January 23rd and will be leaving on April 15 if I can handle hanging out with my mother-in-law that long.

Hoop Dance

At the Heard Museum in Phoenix, Arizona during the annual Hoop Dance competition

For years Caroline and I have wanted to attend the annual hoop dance competition held at the Heard Museum but time and again it seems we had scheduled travels taking us away from Phoenix. Not this time, with Jutta visiting we thought this should be the year we would make time to see the hoop dance performed in person. All three of us were thrilled to be here; Caroline and her mom both left with black hooded sweaters emblazoned with information about the contest. Hopefully, we will pen this into our itinerary for a return visit and arrive a lot earlier to get better seats.