Brown’s Orchard

Sunrise in Willcox, Arizona

It is 6:50 in the morning, and the sun is rising over the Dos Cabezas mountains near Willcox, Arizona. Last night, we drove 200 miles southeast of Phoenix for a weekend of visiting ghost towns and, more importantly, picking apples at Brown’s Orchard. Our cheap $35-a-night motel in Willcox is a Patel operation with the familiar Gujarati cooking smell taking over the reception area; Bollywood music plays in the background. It is cold down here, a surprise to my legs covered to the knee by my all-too-thin shorts. A polo shirt and no sweater doesn’t help this situation. Fortunately, I brought socks and hiking boots.

Willcox, Arizona

We’re out on this frosty morning for a drive south to check out some old ghost towns and whatever abandoned stuff we can find.

Near Willcox, Arizona

First up is Webb, originally a railroad stop for local agriculture. An old school building, now a residence, and a collapsed dwelling are all we find; an old post office is supposed to exist, but we don’t see it.

Near Willcox, Arizona

And so we continue down dirt roads, looking for Gleeson and the Arizona Ghost Town Trail.

Joe Bono Mercantile and Bar in Gleeson, Arizona

We’ve come across Gleeson and the Joe Bono Mercantile and Bar. This old building was a general store until the 1950s, and then, after Joe Bono took it over, it was a bar that remained open until the 1970s. Apparently, it was the last operational business in town.

Joe Bono Mercantile and Bar in Gleeson, Arizona

Through the dirty window, this was what my camera could make out of the decaying old place.

Rattlesnake Ranch in Gleeson, Arizona

This is our second visit to Gleeson; the first time was six years ago with my mother-in-law when we stopped here at the world-famous Rattlesnake Ranch.

Caroline Wise in Gleeson, Arizona

After a moment of backtracking we head north on the Ghost Town Trail but first a stop to inspect a giant black grasshopper that appears to be of the “Lubber” family.

Somewhere between Gleeson and Pearce, Arizona

This dirt road with a fair amount of washboarding is taken easily in our little Hyundai Accent – in other words, any car can make this road. In Courtland, a few remains of buildings crumble away, rejoining the earth they were formed with. The jail building is holding up the best; a nearby sidewalk comes from nothing and goes nowhere, and a few foundations hint at storefronts that may have at another time opened their doors to patrons strolling by.

Local Jail in Pearce, Arizona

Pearce is at the end of the trail near the highway and, as ghost towns go, this one is doing ok. This old jail, built in 1915 for only $615, was abandoned in the mid-1930s.

Soto Bros. and Renaud Store a.k.a. the Pearce General Store in Pearce, Arizona

This particular weekend locals near the ghost town of Pearce have come out and set up stands roadside for a community yard sale. We stopped and found little of use, but the walk up and down the street was well worth our time. This is the Soto Bros. and Renaud Store, a.k.a. the Pearce General Store, built in 1896 that served the local population of the town of 1,500 until the place started to decline during the Great Depression. It is mid-morning, and time to get to the main reason we have made this journey.

Brown's Orchard in Willcox, Arizona

We are going apple picking. Last year, I stumbled upon a website telling of the opportunity to pick your own apples and have them made into apple juice while you wait. The only problem was that when I called for more information, I found that it was too late in the season to come out. This year, Brown’s Orchard proprietor June called to let me know that the apples were in, and we finally arrived on the last apple-picking weekend.

Brown's Orchard in Willcox, Arizona

With a wagon in tow, armed with fruit pickers to collect the 160 pounds (72kg) of apples we need to do our very own cider pressing. Caroline and I scour 36 acres of apple trees, hundreds of trees, in fact. We pick from Red and Golden Delicious, Red Rome Beauties, Jonathans, and our favorite – the Winesap.

Brown's Orchard in Willcox, Arizona

The trees are beautiful this time of year with leaves turning fall colors. The ground is covered with fallen apples that a flock of sheep is munching on while two dogs watch on. The aroma is of sweet apples and fragrant vinegar as the apples on the ground have seen better days.

Brown's Orchard in Willcox, Arizona

Finally, I struggle to drag our laden wagon with a flat tire back to the barn. Wasting no time, Gerard, June’s husband, got us to washing apples. Once cleaned, the apples are tossed into a grinder, filling a bucket that, in turn, is dumped into the press. By the time all the apples have been prepared, and it is time to start the pressing mechanism, 3 gallons (11.5 liters) of juice have naturally flowed from the apple mash already. Another 9.5 gallons are pressed from our hand-picked apples using the press.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Brown's Orchard in Willcox, Arizona

As the juice flows, Gerard gives us a sample glass at first, I am aghast to drink anything made of apples since, in the orchard, Caroline and I must have eaten and sampled more than 20 apples each, but the juice is amazing, and so we sample, sample and sample some more. We have been ankle-deep in apples, picked and ate apples, washed, ground, squeezed, drank, wore apples, and would love to do it all over again.

Ted’s Hot Dogs

Ted's Hotdogs in Tempe, Arizona

Ted’s Hot Dogs is a Buffalo, New York, institution since 1927. Lucky for us here in Arizona, Spiro, whose father opened the original Ted’s in Buffalo, started the Tempe branch many years ago so he could get away from the freezing Buffalo winters. With my aunt and uncle’s 60th anniversary fast approaching, I picked up a 3-pound bag of original Ted’s hot dogs and their famous hot sauce to take with me to California. Our folks haven’t had a Ted’s hot dog in years and as they can miss their old hometown from time to time, this connection to Buffalo will help make celebrating their anniversary all the better.

Stone Cookies

Stone Cookies from the Big Island of Hawaii

Leaving the Big Island of Hawaii we skipped breakfast for the sake of a little more sightseeing and picked up a bag of Stone Cookies for a quick snack on the plane. The bag did not get opened until we were in the air – Mmmmm, yummy, these would be great with coffee. Figuring we could buy more on one of the next islands, we were disappointed in not finding even one bag more. We cherished them, finishing the last cookie after we returned to Arizona. These are after all Stone cookies and as hard as they are, one could easily believe they might last forever or at least never appear stale.

It took weeks of calling the number on the bag in Mt. View, Hawaii, before I caught someone in the bakery and was able to inquire about mail order. They don’t do it. But, Aloha Baskets & Balloons in Hilo does. A very nice lady by the name of Sharla gladly took my order for half a dozen bags of these wonderful Stone Cookies and soon seven pounds of the rocks were on their way. These cookies are not very sweet, they may be the most difficult things to chew next to bones, but there is something about them Caroline and I love. So, if you were lucky enough to try Stone Cookies on your recent trip to the Big Island of Hawaii and have been wondering where to find them, try Sharla at 808-935-1939. The free bag of Passion Fruit Butter Cookies was a great treat, too.

Hawaiian Shave Ice

Tropical Sno featuring Hawaiian Shave Ice in Phoenix, Arizona

Tropical Sno is the name of the business, Hawaiian Shave Ice is the product. Eric Slivinski is the owner and part-time operator of this small stand on the south-east corner of 40th Street and Bell Road in Phoenix, Arizona. Today, Paul Zellner took my order and with glee, I asked for a large 16oz portion with a scoop of vanilla ice cream at the bottom. And now the best part of ordering here, they don’t just feature grape, strawberry, bubblegum, and rootbeer, they have the traditional Hawaiian flavors such as guava, passion fruit, pineapple, coconut, mango, and papaya. In all, Eric stocks 80 different flavors, and with prices starting at only $1.75 for a small and the scoop of vanilla ice cream costing an additional fifty cents, you can bet I’ll be a regular customer so I can re-experience another fond Hawaiian memory again and again.

Making Bhatura

Mandakini (Sonal's mom) making bhatura (fried bread) for dinner

Sonal invited us over for dinner this evening, and, lucky for us, she knows we appreciate a real old-fashioned homecooked meal. Before we could sit down to eat we stepped into the backyard where Sonal lit a propane-fueled burner to heat corn oil in a wok and proceeded to roll out the dough into rounds. Sonal’s mom is seen frying the bhatura (fried bread) that we would eat with chole (spiced garbanzo beans). Also on the menu, this evening was spinach rice that was served with homemade yogurt and papad jeera which was quite simply a papadam sprinkled with a bit of finely chopped red onion, tomato, cilantro, and a light dusting of chaat masala.

The bread is made by mixing 2 cups of all-purpose flour with 1 small boiled and mashed potato, 2 tbsp plain yogurt, 1/2 tsp baking powder, salt, 3 tbsp corn oil, and enough water to form a dough. This has to sit for 5 – 7 hours before you can pinch off a piece about the size of a ping pong ball. Dip in rice flour and roll to the thickness of a quarter and the size of your hand. Place in hot oil and fry on one side until edges begin to firm. Be sure to press the bubbling dough into the oil, then turn over and fry until just golden brown. Great with chole.