Big Plans – Scandanavian Style

Map of Scandanavian Travels

A few weeks ago, I bought two tickets for us to fly to Frankfurt, Germany. Over the intervening weeks, a very detailed itinerary for a trip within our trip has taken shape. As anyone who knows us knows, we have family in the Frankfurt area, and we’ll be spending part of our time in Germany with them, but we’ll also be heading into a big adventure that sees us visiting Sweden and Norway for the first time. Denmark will be a part of this, but I didn’t list it as a first because we dipped a toe into the southern end of the country some years ago.

I’m reluctant to share any more as the details of the trip will be divulged after our return but this kind of journey requires an incredible amount of work, relatively. Planning for vacation hardly seems like work when what is really being done is the creation of a timeline that is intended to see us out playing for the duration of time away from Arizona.

Mapping a course through three countries and a dozen cities over 18 days has already required between 100 and 130 hours, with another 20 to 30 yet to come. The reason for the lengthy planning is to establish a number of touchpoints/options during the course of our journey. With a desire to move by foot, water, bike, and rail into the forest, water, city, museum, mountain, and history, we have many facets of approach mapped out before we land somewhere in order to not lose a moment figuring things out while we are in the midst of traveling. Preplanning is key to maximizing our travel investment. Other than reservations, nothing needs to be adhered to if the circumstances of the moment demand that we alter our plans, so there is flexibility. This idea of flexibility/spontaneity is really only addressed due to the many questions we get about being able to find time for spur-of-the-moment stuff to do on our adventures. I believe this only comes up because the majority of people don’t have this kind of time to spend planning a vacation, and so may suffer the dilemma of finding what they will do once they hit the ground at their destination.

The places of note that are on our itinerary include Roskilde and Copenhagen, Denmark. Next up are Malmo, Ystad, Lund, Gothenburg, Uppsala, and Stockholm, Sweden. From there, we move on to Oslo, Flåm, Gudvangen, and Bergen in Norway before flying back to Frankfurt, Germany, for more family time. None of this will be traveled by car, while the majority will be by train. Though I’d enjoy the flexibility of coming and going as we please, meaning we’d be doing a lot more driving, my absolute lack of joy in trying to park in big European cities means I’m willing to sacrifice some broader spontaneity for my mental health. I could imagine someone reading that we’ll be in a dozen cities over the course of 18 days as already questioning the mental health equation, but that’s the way we travel. With over 440 waking hours to wander through 4 countries, our mode of operation dictates that we should stuff our days full of experiences that tax our ability to keep up with ourselves.

In our world, vacation is not a time of recuperation in the traditional sense of how many Americans travel, we are spending hard-earned treasure to gather experiences that will continue moving with us for years to come. In a sense, exploration is a method of putting money in the bank for our experiential retirement savings, as who knows what happens in our later years and if we are able to push ourselves like we can during this stage of our lives. And from my perspective, we must consider the environment and overtourism where we may not be allowed to visit some of the places we’ll be dipping into in the next weeks.

From the realm of absurd and meaningless statistics, this will be our 328th trip away from Phoenix since September 1999, meaning we’ve averaged nearly 14 getaways per year since that time. I’ll likely be shooting between 12,000 and 16,000 photos while on this grand adventure, depending on the weather, and between 1,000 and 1,300 of those will be published to around 78,000 to 140,000 words across the 26 days of blog entries. Our vacation will last a total of 624 hours and will ultimately be documented with approximately 109,000 words and 1,150 photos, requiring about 95 hours of image prep and another 30 days of transcribing and writing the text, thus bringing me to nearly 12 weeks in total between planning and the last post being shared before this period of immersion comes to an end. And for this luxury of time afforded me, we’ll have a document that will allow us many years of exploring, in fine detail, our first Scandinavia-centric vacation.

Big Plans At The End Of 57

Monterey Bay Aquarium Map

Today is the last day of my 57th year; tomorrow, I’ll be 58. But this wasn’t just any old day closing out another year of life. I was working to clean up the grammar of older blog posts when I came across one about the Monterey Bay Aquarium we last visited in 2017. That triggered me to wonder when the aquarium might reopen; well, today was my lucky day as they are making that splash on May 1st to members only and then on the 15th to the general public. If you think that just because we are 700 miles (1,137km) from Monterey, we aren’t members, you are wrong.

Here, just before my birthday, I worked out a nearly 10-day trip and already booked our lodging reservations in the sincere belief that when the aquarium opens reservations on April 26th at 9:00 a.m. PST, I’ll be right there to book our entry for a 10:00 a.m. entry for one of the days we’ll be up there.

Note left at Treebones Resort in Big Sur, California

If that wasn’t exciting enough, I also have us booked at the Lover’s Point Inn in Pacific Grove, just down the street from the aquarium, along with two more unbelievable nights in the Human Nest at Treebones Resort in Big Sur. From there, we’ll head down to Cambria to stay at a place across the street from the ocean. While I still have some details to figure out, the frenzy of having worked all that out requires me to take a break and allow my brain to stop sizzling. This kind of excitement is taxing on old men’s brains, NOT! The photo above is the note I wrote and the drawings Caroline made back at the end of 2010 when, for New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day, we stayed in the nest but were nearly blown out of our perch; click here to see that post!

Octopus at Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California

While it feels like we’ve been to the aquarium dozens, if not hundreds of times, the truth is more modest. This is our 11th visit in 29 years or hardly enough when I see it this way. Our first time ever in Monterey back in January 1992 included the aquarium and then in 1997, after we’d moved to America, we took my mother-in-law Jutta with us to visit this magic place. In 2001 and 2002, we visited once each year, but in 2004 and 2005, we visited twice each of those years. This was followed by a six-year pause, and we didn’t return until 2011. Another six-year break ensued that culminated with our last visit in 2017. Now, in 2021, seeing this on our horizon, it almost feels like there should have been five or six other visits thrown in there over the years, but obviously, there were other places on the map we wanted to visit, too.

Maybe we’ll make it an even dozen times we’ll have visited the Monterey Bay Aquarium come 2022 when a new “Into The Deep” exhibit is scheduled to open.

Once We’re There or Getting Lost

On the streets of Frankfurt, Germany

The breadth of how much planning is required to not have a happenstance journey into Europe, should we figure out the digital nomad thing, becomes extraordinary. Knowing that I’m already set on 13 base destinations over the course of a year, we have to maximize this opportunity to make the best of our circumstances while still allowing a healthy amount of serendipity to enter our adventure. I suppose what I really need is the knowledge of what our options are before arriving in any given city and having a familiarity akin to already living in each place for some period of time. As I peel the layers back, I find it daunting, and this is just as I’m checking our options in Vienna, a city we’ve already visited.

Biking, hiking, walking, trams, trains, subways, and occasionally boats will act as our modes of transportation. Open-air markets, museums, dining experiences, bakeries, churches, coffee shops, cooking classes, and events will all have to be mapped. Some of this planning will happen more than a year out, while some of it will have to occur in situ as there’s only so much one can glean on the horizon when looking from so far away. The point will be to arrive with a routine ready to be established where we don’t have to wonder daily what we might be doing.

I can already hear the voices of my past who lament that I’m killing spontaneity, but I have to insist that we enrich our experience by shoving two or three times more activity into a precious travel day. While it’s been said here before, we rise with the sun and venture into our world in the quiet of the day as the places we visit are stirring back to life. The rare nature of being able to carve time out of one’s routine to explore faraway destinations should never be taken for granted. We do not invest the time and money to gather popularity or bragging rights that we’ve collected another trophy; we intensely desire our visit to enrich our knowledge and pique our curiosity about the history and cultural amenities that may be unique to a particular destination.

As I write this, I realize how old-fashioned I must sound to those who pass through a location with no other need than sharing a fanciful photo that exemplifies the photogenic qualities of the influencer who’s popularising a particular corner or view. So, are we immune to chasing down the hot and trendy places? Heck no, we’ll gladly pounce on visiting Hotel Sacher in Vienna for a second slice of that famous 189-year-old recipe used for making Sacher Torte. And Horseshoe Bend up near Lake Powell in Arizona? Well, millions now grab selfies from the overlook; look closely at some of their photos, and one day, you spot us, waving from down on the river to those above who are spending 30 seconds up there.

Bitterness is the next realization I recognize, squeaking out my words, but am I bitter? I think I would have to admit that I am. Silly huh? What kind of unrealistic expectations do I have for people to travel with noble ideas of enriching their own lives instead of putting their egos on display? Didn’t I once want my own ego to shine through? Actually, no. There was no platform in the 1970s through the late 1990s that would allow the average person to put their vacuous experiences and fashion choices on display to build a cult of personality around. Well, there was, but not everyone got to be a rock star or famous actor.

I suppose that, to an extent, what I’m complaining about is a nascent change in an economy where social media allows participants to create new avenues of value while I remain on the sideline without the mindset that would allow me to benefit financially from my own exploits.

Well, this went off the rails of the original intent of writing about what we’d be doing once we landed in Europe to live there instead of just visiting. Such is the nature of the old man’s mind grabbing at straws to make sense of the world where NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) are driving the price of crypto-art to levels that are making millions for their creators. Maybe I should just focus on the travel planning?

Where Might We Go?

Nomads across Europe

*** Yes, this is one super long wall of text, but in it is my sketch of a 1-year journey living and working across continental Europe. Should you invest the time to read this lengthy entry, you might learn something about how inexpensive such an opportunity would really be. Of course, tourist visas could present certain issues, but if you can get past that (such as being married to a German), you might be able to explore an angle on traveling you never thought affordable. 

So, beyond the obvious need for love, I also require food, sleep, and shelter, the essentials that we humans require. Beyond that, it’s all luxury. Being fortunate enough to explore a life of incredible circumstances in a world of so much suffering is beyond my ability to comprehend, but here I am at the cusp of turning 58 years old. Caroline and I are seriously entertaining the idea of taking this remote working gig on the road to join the world of Digital Nomads.

As you’ll hopefully have read in the previous blog entry, I’m disillusioned with the price of moving somewhere else in the United States. While we’d thought for a long time that we’d retire in Oregon near the coast, we’ve been priced out of that potentiality. Researching costs for near-coastal lodging, aside from being there for a limited amount of time on vacation, something became abundantly apparent: we could better afford to become wanderers across the European landscape.

But then the really hard part of this equation strikes my mind: Where to start and where to go from that point? If we considered a month per city, choosing 12 locations is no easy feat until I consider a conversation Caroline and I had back in the summer of 2018. We were in Vienna, Austria, falling in love with the city. We spoke of how incredible it would be if we could live here but thought it was likely too expensive. Never in our wildest dreams back then did we think it would actually be possible. The next best thing to putting down long-term roots would be to spend an entire month in this beautiful historic city. Sure, we could stay longer, but why not see more?

How would this all work? It’s 4:00 p.m. in Europe when 8:00 in the morning rolls around in Arizona. Caroline could be available Monday through Friday from 4:00 p.m. until midnight, allowing her to have plenty of face time with her coworkers. We’d be able to sleep until roughly 7:00 or 8:00 in the morning Central European Time and have the first 7 or 8 hours of the day exploring our environs.

Logistically, there would be a lot of preplanning, so once in Europe, we could hit the ground running and fall right into getting to work. Many of our belongings would have to be placed in storage, while we would be carrying only the essentials. Effectively, this would be a long river trip with us camping along the trail, so to speak.

Part of the planning is booking places to stay over a year in advance in order to be as mindless as possible once underway. I already know that there will be a certain amount of regret that instead of staying in one place, we could have stayed in this much more scenic place, but such is the price of making up your mind and enjoying yourself with where you are. Initially, I thought I’d run us ragged with taking off for three weekends per month and only dedicating Monday through Friday in each of our locations, but the more I thought about it, I realized we enjoy nesting, so hanging out at least two weekends would be important. Dwelling further into the possibilities, I think we’ll aim for one Friday a month of vacation time so we could leave that morning for a more relaxed three-day weekend once a month where we return Monday afternoon.

By the way, we will not rent a car during this year, unless we need one for a particular opportunity. Apart from that, we are doing all of our travels by train. This just makes a lot of economic sense. Consider a train ride from Bordeaux, France, down to Bayonne. By car, it would take nearly three hours, while the train would have us there in just under two hours. First-class roundtrip tickets leaving on a Friday morning and returning on Monday afternoon would cost us only $23 each. I’ll go further into these economics later.

John Wise and Caroline Wise in Vienna, Austria

Okay, back to Vienna (by the way, that’s us in Vienna a couple of years ago). Well, actually, we need to get down there first. Travel from Frankfurt, Germany, to Vienna on the high-speed ICE only takes 6.5 hours and costs $60 each in 1st class. Check into our apartment, which is looking to cost about $1,140 for four weeks. On our previous visit, we didn’t have enough time to head over the Danube to Bratislava, Slovakia; we’ll fix that with a long weekend over there via a short 1-hour train ride costing $27 each for the roundtrip. We’ll also need to pay a visit to the Vienna Woods with a train ride out to Baden bei Wien before grabbing a couple of bikes to ride into the hills to see the Cistercian Abbey Stift Heiligenkreuz aka Abbey of the Holy Cross. We’ll leave Vienna via train for a 4.25-hour journey west; the cost of this next long haul is $82 for 1st class.

We are staying in German-speaking Austria (one of my wife’s favorite dialects) a bit longer as we head west into Innsbruck, where I’m finding rentals for an average of $1,404 a month. This begins a 56-day stay in the mountains. In one iteration of my planning, I thought we’d go from Vienna deeper into Italy right away, but the train ride was quite lengthy, so why not break it up? First up is obviously Innsbruck, and then 111 miles south, but still in the Alps, we’ll pull into our next location. While in Innsbruck, we’ll take a 16km roundtrip walk over to Hall in Tirol. Our long weekend will involve a dramatic train ride through the mountains up to Mittenwald, Germany, for a $24 roundtrip. Finally, we’ll try to squeeze in a weekend visit to Kufstein, Austria, which is an hour east and costs $44 each for a roundtrip. The train to our next destination requires a 2.5-hour ride deeper into the mountains, costing $70 each.

Trento, Italy, sits high in the Alps on the Adige River at the western end of the Dolomites. Getting out for a hike in the mountains might be a chore, but we have plenty of time to plan things and figure out the bus schedules. While in the area, I have a short weekend trip down to Brescia on the itinerary that’ll cost $38 for the train down. While researching some of these details, I came across a blogger who wrote of his full-day train ride from Trento down to Lecce near the bottom of the boot of Italy. While a 14-hour train ride sounds a bit excessive, we’ll be traveling the length of the eastern coast of Italy, and Lecce itself is an amazing-looking place. Roundtrip tickets are as little as $82, while 1st class tickets are $222 each! Our stay in Trento might be one of the more expensive at an average of $1,468 for the month based on the places I’m considering.

Regarding rental costs on this trip around Europe, consider this: our apartment in Phoenix, Arizona, costs us $1,032 per month. Water, trash, and electricity add $232 per month, while the internet costs $56. So, each month, we pay $1,320 to live 20 miles north of downtown. If we were living in Scottsdale, that cost would be easily doubled, and even then, we may not be near a place with many amenities. Now that $1,468 doesn’t look all that expensive when you see that I’m looking at staying in central old town areas whenever possible, and that price includes water, electricity, and internet, plus we won’t need a car. Also of note, almost every “home base” along this journey is for 28 days, as that’s the point where hosts on Airbnb start to offer big discounts! After doing all of my calculations, I’ve come up with an average monthly European rent of $1,417, which is $97 a month more than our current rent in a cultural wasteland.

Florence, Italy, a historic city of the Renaissance, here we come. Our ride in from the north will have taken 8.5 hours via Bologna but only costs $46 each. With so much to see and do here, we would likely only spend one long weekend away over in nearby Pisa. But should we feel comfortable with the pace of taking in Florence, we might head into Siena for a weekend, since after recently finishing the book “SPQR” by Mary Beard, it might be interesting to see the statue of the Capitoline Wolf, which is also the symbol of the town along with the wallop of other historical treasures. A day trip over to the town of Montecatini Terme (where Christian Dior died sounds intriguing too, but to be honest, the Terme di Montecatini (thermal baths) might be more interesting with their morning “Hydropinic” Therapy session for only €15.00 each. Don’t try finding a definition of “Hydropinic,” it’s not easy to find and seems specific to Italian; it means; water is to be imbibed at specific temperatures, pace, and times. Lodging for our 28 days of Tuscan indulgence will cost us about $1,330, maybe less.

Turin Italy Travel Map

Turin will be where we conclude our 84-day/11-city journey in Italy before moving on to our next country. Piazza Carlo Alberto will be our first stop here as it was the place in which Friedrich Nietzsche collapsed back on January 3, 1889, at the age of 44, just as he left 6 Via Carlo Alberto where he was living. If we are truly lucky, we’ll take in a performance of Bizet’s Carmen at the opera or Teatro Regio di Torino, while just one street over on Via Po, we’ll be sure to try the gelato. Both were favorites of Nietzsche. To stay in the same area where this famous German philosopher once lived will cost us about $1,100 for the month. I’m certain we’ll spend an equal amount on gelato. While in Turin, I’ve penciled in a 3-day weekend in Ivrea via a 48-minute train ride for $16 roundtrip, a weekend in Susa via a 68-minute train ride for $14 each roundtrip, and a day trip over to Chieri, which takes a quick 20 minutes for only $6 roundtrip. I almost forgot, the train between Florence and Turin takes about 3 hours and costs $104 in 1st class or $78 in 2nd class; this includes Wi-Fi that strangely costs 1 cent per 24 hours while on board.

Annecy, France, between Grenoble to the south and Geneva, Switzerland, to the north, is where we are spending month six. Our apartment should cost somewhere around $1,313 for the month. To travel between Turin and Annecy, we will board a TGV in 1st class for only $63 each. With two weekends available, maybe we’ll take one of them up in Geneva and the other down in Chambéry. A day trip over to Chamonix to see Mont Blanc would give us 13 hours in town for only $13 roundtrip via train.

You might notice that I’m going into a high level of detail regarding this year-long itinerary; well, what you are seeing is my travel planning. Normally, I’d be populating all these elements into a spreadsheet so I could print them out later, but instead, I’m writing up the plan here in my WordPress editor as I go. At some point, I’ll transfer all of this to a document that can be organized, which also means it might change here and there as we approach our departure date which at this time is tentatively scheduled for April 2022. Those changes could involve a change of cities due to fluctuating rental prices, but we’d still try to stay in the same general area due to other destinations on our clockwise journey around Europe.

Who doesn’t want to go to Aix-en-Provence, France? Before you even get to the end of this blog entry, I’ll go ahead and share now, our total time in France during this year will amount to 154 days. You might think that being down here in the Côte d’Azur, we’d head over to Saint-Tropez. Nope, not this trip, as this is also about the routine around working, not an extended vacation. Plus, the train doesn’t go there. The train does go to Arles, which would make for a great 3-day weekend in my eyes, and for $42 each of us roundtrip for the 2-hour trek, we’re on it. Also in Arles is a National Park called Camargue where we can go flamingo watching and maybe see the world-famous Camargue horses. A weekend trip over to Avignon takes only 20 minutes to get there on the TGV, and 1st class train fare is $29 roundtrip each. An interesting day trip could be had at the fishing village of La Ciotat, an hour south on the coast; for a roundtrip fare of less than $30 each, we could have breakfast and lunch on the sea and be back home in Aix-en-Provence for work and dinner. An apartment for the month for us would be about $1,250. The train that brought us here from Annecy will have taken 4 hours and cost $45 each in 1st class.

Albi France Google View

Toulouse, France, is an exception to how long we’ll stay in each location; we are here for only two weeks as we adjust our calendar to make room for a special date in December. No big price break for 14-day stays, so we’ll be putting down about $792, but at only $56 a night, that doesn’t feel bad at all. As for our train ride from Provence to Toulouse, that requires approximately 4.5 hours and costs $29 each in 1st class with free Wi-Fi. The one weekend we have in the region will see us traveling to Albi (pictured using Google Earth), and if we can squeeze in a day trip, it could be over to Gaillac, 45 minutes away by train.

Bordeaux, France, in the Aquitaine region, is next up. The 1st class train travel costs $18 each and speeds us over to Bordeaux in a quick 2 hours. While we are here in the famous wine region known around the world, it is not the biggest draw for us. Alcohol never is; history for Caroline and me holds the appeal. Like in all the cities we are calling home for a month, we’ll need to make some travel arrangements so we don’t get bored and Bordeaux is no different. Our 3-day long weekend is pegged for visiting Limoges, our shorter 2-day weekend trip is to Bayonne, and Libourne is under consideration for a day trip. The adventure in Limoges from Friday morning to late afternoon Monday is handled by train as usual and costs $68 each. Bayonne is near the Bay of Biscay just north of the Spanish border via a 2-hour train ride for only $23. Finally, the day trip to Libourne. Good thing it’s only 22-minutes away as we can leave on the 7:00 a.m. departure to have breakfast in the old town and still enjoy a solid 8 hours walking around before heading back to Bordeaux on the 3:30 train so Caroline can greet her co-workers who’ll be starting their workday. I’m making a note for us to walk over the bridge crossing the Dordogne River in Libourne and think of John Stuart Mill, who crossed over it back in December 1854; he was the author of On Liberty. The average cost for an apartment in Bordeaux during our stay is about $1,250.

Frankfurt, Germany, for Christmas and New Year’s with our family, will require a 7-hour ride passing through Paris, costing $252 for the two of us in 1st class, traveling first on a TGV and then on an ICE, which is Germany’s highspeed train service. It’s a bit expensive as we are traveling on Sunday. And just then, it occurs to me, why not spend a night in Paris? I know one day is not enough in the City of Light, but you can walk and see many things if you have an entire day. Walking out of the Montparnasse train station towards the Eiffel Tower, over the Seine to the Arc de Triomphe, down Champs Elysees to the Louvre, and back to the train station is only 12km, requiring 2.5 hours, easy peasy. Checked on hotels, and we’ll certainly find something for a night between $100 and $150. Leaving Bordeaux on the TGV in 1st class at 7:00 in the morning has us arriving in Paris by 10:00 a.m. for only $39 each; from there, we need to drop our bags at a hotel until we can check-in. The next day, we’ll leave Paris at 3:20 p.m., arriving in Frankfurt at 7:00 p.m. for only $59 each in 1st class, again with free Wi-Fi.

After our holiday celebrations in Frankfurt, we’ll be heading back to France as we move on to Rennes over in Brittany. Seeing we again have to pass through Paris, why not stop once more for a day in this amazing city? If we leave on the 6:53 out of Frankfurt for only $63 each in 1st class, we’ll arrive in Paris at 11:00 in the morning at Paris Est station, which is a 30-minute walk to the Louvre. There are a ton of hotels for between $80 and $120 right near the train station; maybe we should consider staying in this area for our night in Paris. The next day, we have to leave Paris at 5:00 p.m. for the train bound for Rennes, France, arriving at 6:30 for only $33 each, and again it’s in 1st class. Please note that by breaking up the trip and having these Monday travel days, we only spent $194 each to travel from France to Germany and back to France for a savings of $116, easily paying for at least one of our nights in Paris.

Rennes welcomes us back to our 28-day habit of staying in a location. Having left America just nine months earlier and our 50-to-200-year-old cities, we will be getting our fill of 2,000-year-old places. Rennes is one of those cities that promises to deliver. From medieval architecture to a cathedral and many churches, I’m certain will find something here to charm us. An apartment in the old town looks to cost about $1,310 a month, some cheaper, many more expensive. Over the course of the month, I have three out-of-town destinations planned. The long weekend I’m considering takes us to Dinan ($29 roundtrip by train) about 90 minutes away and just south of Saint-Malo. While Saint-Malo is close, it might be better to visit as a day trip as the train from Rennes is only an hour, and it would appear that visiting on a weekday with good weather would be preferred at this extremely popular and often crowded site. A weekend visit down to Nantes takes about 90 minutes and costs $60 each for the roundtrip, or maybe we bite the bullet and book an expensive room out on Mont Saint Michael.

Giverny-10 by shogunangel

Our tickets should have been reserved long in advance for the 4-hour journey to Rouen, France, in Normandy. At the time I’m writing this, the cost for 1st class travel is $52 each. An apartment in or near the old town is averaging $980. Our long weekend here is a special request from Caroline. We will travel to Bayeux to see the famous tapestry with our own eyes. Roundtrip tickets to Bayeux up near the coast are $62 each, with nice rooms on Airbnb for $60 and up. Our shorter weekend side trip will be to Dieppe for $10 each to travel up to the coast; I make note that we must eat at Café des Tribunaux, where famed artists such as Renoir, Monet, and Flaubert were known to drink and also try the local moules Frites (mussels and fries). If we can carve out time on a Saturday or Sunday, we should take a day trip down to Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny (pictured). It’s only 45 minutes away but has a very limited train service, costing $30 each for the roundtrip. Due to the strange schedule, we will be spending the day between the beautiful village of Vernon and Giverny from 8:00 a.m. until 9:00 p.m. and can only do so on certain days.

Something about transportation costs to consider: we won’t have a car payment, nor are we renting a car for this year of being nomads. Our train travels, mostly in 1st class, will have cost us approximately $2,950 by this time, add in the tickets for Rouen to Bruges, Belgium, and from there to Groningen, Netherlands, plus our return to Frankfurt, Germany, and the cost of the majority of our train travel will amount to $3,130. Does that sound like a lot? Consider that our 2019 Kia Niro costs us $415 a month, add $60 a month for insurance, and outside of pandemic times, we would typically spend about $120 a month on gas or $7,140 a year for our car, not considering any maintenance. For our $3,000, we’ll have visited seven countries over the course of 365 days and taken in at least 46 cities, big and small, loaded with thousands of years of history. Even calculating the airfare to Germany from Phoenix, Arizona, we’ll still have spent less on travel costs than paying for a car in America.

Hello Bruges, Belgium. Instead of traveling on a Sunday, which has been the routine, we are coming in on Saturday as train prices for Sunday were twice as high. By traveling a day early, we are only paying $74 each, in 1st class, of course. Bruges is going to be the most expensive city we will stay in, with a 28-day cost averaging a whopping $1,750, and goes way up from there. Don’t bother suggesting the outskirts of town, as it’s pricey there too. One weekend, we’ll head over to Kortrijk to visit a Flemish city on the River Leie. Train tickets to Kortrijk are only $25 roundtrip, and the ride takes about an hour each way. Another long weekend will see us off for three days of bicycling around Ghent. Train price is $22 roundtrip for the 20-minute ride while apartments can be had for between $60 and $115. If time allows, maybe we can squeeze in a day trip to the coast over in the Ostende area for a re-visit to the Paul Delvaux Museum, one of Caroline’s and my first dates.

Groningen is our last big 28-day stay. For $49 and a ride across the Belgian and Netherlands landscapes, we’ll enjoy our 6-hour journey across some very flat land. If I thought Bruges was on the costly side, Groningen is coming in at a slightly cheaper $1,725 a month, hardly a savings. Caroline and I have traveled many times from Frankfurt to Belgium and Holland in the past, but not a single visit in over 25 years. This month will see me turning 60 as it will be April of 2023 at this point and so a month of cycling in the Netherlands sounds about perfect. Of course, Amsterdam is appealing, but we’ve been there more than a few times, so it feels like we should be checking out new places as much as possible. One of our two weekends out of the city will take us east into Leeuwarden for a couple of days at about $80 a night, and if we are lucky, maybe we can book a few days in the incredibly popular village of Giethoorn for between $90 and $150 a night. The train from Groningen to Leeuwarden takes about 30 minutes each way, with a train to Giethoorn having to detour through Leeuwarden to get down to our destination, and costs $55 each for a roundtrip.

Our return to Frankfurt from Groningen is a mere $89 in 1st class, taking 6 hours to get home with an 8:30 a.m. departure, arriving by 2:30 in the afternoon, leaving enough time for us to go get us some Grüne Soße in celebration.

That’s the end of year one. A follow-up blog entry about our walking schedule will be posted as I make progress on it. Maybe you are thinking, who plans their daily walks? Well, take Vienna for example; we have 28 days there, but we also have about five travel days away from the city. With 23 days left over and the desire to revisit sites and museums we’ve rushed through previously, we have to dedicate time to those activities in addition to seeing new corners of Vienna. We have eight possible spurs where the subway runs that we’ll have to choose from to ride to the end station, and from there, we walk back. This is fairly easy as we are only looking at between 8km to 14km per leg or 5 to 9 miles. This has to be done for all 12 cities, and where we can add bicycles or kayaking to the mix, I have that to figure out, too. Did I share that there are at least a dozen tram lines in Vienna that might have interesting destinations, too, along with a number of dedicated bike paths from the city out into the surrounding nature? And what about a cooking class or two? Which triggers my thinking about must-try dishes in each location. It’s endless.

One year through Germany

This is the map of our encore year where instead of settling down, we’d roam Germany’s corners with 12 destinations that would allow us to explore the far reaches outside of where Caroline grew up in Frankfurt. Of course, none of this is cut in stone, and maybe it all has to wait until we are actually retired, but if you don’t dream of what comes next, nothing will arrive.

Remote Self-Isolation

Near False Klamath, California looking out at the Pacific Ocean

After spending nearly all day yesterday driving, we did more of the same today. With a destination 1,200 miles (1,930km) northwest of home, we broke up the segments into two nearly equal distances by driving from Phoenix, Arizona, to Fresno, California, yesterday, and then today, we finished the trek. It rained most of the day, at times coming down heavy, making for some white knuckle moments on the narrow Highway 101 through the Redwoods of Northern California. Normally, there’s nothing particularly troublesome about driving in a bit of rain but we’ve not seen the stuff since sometime earlier in the year, as in back in January or February. By the time late afternoon had rolled around, we were resigned to the imagined fact that it was going to rain all day, but then, just as we reached False Klamath on the ocean and our first opportunity to find ourselves oceanside, we were offered this view above.

Caroline Wise on the beach at Crescent City, California

But the sky wasn’t done with us yet as it cut itself in two with this bisection that seems to suggest, “Leave this gray from down south behind you as on your right and to the north, Oregon is about to smile upon you.” Had the heavens closed up after our first stop, we would have been content to have had a minute to admire the silver sea. Besides, who could have asked for a moment of molten gold ocean to pull us from the car just 20 minutes later? By the way, in an alternative universe, there is a similar picture of me in silhouette, as it was Caroline’s idea to snap a photo of me with her phone as I stood in the same place. Seeing her image, I told her to assume my position, and I took this one of her. On more occasions than I wish to publically admit, though that’s just what I’m doing right now, my wife has some really good ideas and is quite inspired. Just don’t tell her I said this, as it will all go to her head, while it’s her modesty that lends itself to her better qualities.

McVay Rock at sunset in Oregon

Our minds are blown as little could we have imagined that we’d make the southern Oregon coast by sunset and that we’d see it in all of its spectacular glory at an overlook we’d never visited. As I’ve shared before, this is our 20th visit to Oregon in the past 18 years, and while I might brag that we’ve seen every inch of this beautiful isolated stretch of the Pacific coast, on every visit, there seems to be just one more place that we’d somehow missed. Today, that stop was at the McVay Rock State Recreation Site, which is less than 3 miles from the Oregon and California state lines. How had we missed this?

Our final stop was a few miles up the Pistol River at the Fish Inn that we found on Airbnb. This place off the beaten path is more than a dozen miles away from the nearest town with Brookings to the south with its population of 6,465 and Gold Beach to the north and its population of 2,293. We’ll be spending the next few days on this 35-mile-long sparsely populated stretch of coast in a kind of remote self-isolation as we try to have as few encounters with other people as possible, minus the requisite stops at Dutch Bros. for coffee.

Rewards

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the California border

Our awareness of the incredibly fortunate lives we live is rarely lost on Caroline and me, but when planning our travels and especially in the time leading up to our departure, that knowledge turns into a riveting tension. This idea is kept alive by the desire to venture out of routine as we are determined not to fall into patterns that would allow us to make excuses for staying in place. Not only are we willing to go, learn, and challenge ourselves, but we have the means and, at least so far, are indefatigable in making the necessary sacrifices. The funny thing is that this all feels like it grows easier and even more rewarding with each passing year. Little touches that enhance our adventures become nuances of the extraordinary, fueling our belief that this is the proverbial icing on the cake, adding to the perfection of how we’ll greet the place we are traveling to.

Nearly two months ago, I confirmed our lodging for the trip on which we are about to embark. Back then it felt like we were gaining some breathing room from COVID-19 and that making plans was a great thing to do. Now, just hours before our departure, the pandemic is raging in all corners of the country. I’m trying to reassure myself that we are doing this as safely as possible with only three nights in hotels: one on the way there and two on the way home; all three are major brands with the hopes they are working hard to protect their franchises. Our lodgings on the coast are at five different rentals; we’ll stay at each one for multiple days and will disinfect a few things before setting up, in addition to tossing off the bedding in favor of using our own pillows and our favorite fluffy down comforter. Ninety-three percent of our meals will come directly from what we are packing, while four meals will be to-go or outdoors. Two of those will be in Yachats, Oregon, at our old favorite Luna Sea restaurant; one lunch will be at Blue Heron Cheese Company in Tillamook, Oregon, and finally, dinner in Crescent City, California, as we will be in a hotel without a kitchen.

By minimizing our contact with others and wearing masks at all times we are in shared public spaces, we feel that we are doing everything we can to remain safe while not risking others’ health should somehow we become asymptomatic carriers. The path of our travels and time of year chosen also minimizes our encounters with others, though, on Thanksgiving and the day after, it’s been our experience that beaches are relatively crowded, although late November in Oregon means that we’ll be at least 20 to 50 feet away from others on a windy open area. If fewer people are traveling this holiday season, maybe we’ll find even greater isolation, which is just fine by us.

Driving west on Interstate 10 in California

I brought up that we’ll be preparing 93% of all of our meals; that’s a very accurate number, actually, as out of 57 meals across 19 days, we really are either cooking or packing sandwiches over the course of every day. While there’s certainly a convenience to eating out during travels, it’s also a hit-and-miss in rural corners of America where options can be grim *(if you ever had to eat Chinese food in Topeka, Kansas, you’d know what I meant). Instead, we’ll be dining on my own cooking with walleye hand-caught in Canada, ribeye steaks from the panhandle of Texas, Cajun Turducken from Louisiana, Corona beans because why not, sundubu Korean tofu stew, grilled bratwurst from our favorite local German store, and spaghetti squash as everyone needs a night off. Doing the dishes and moving this amount of food up to Oregon is a downside, but on the bright side, it’ll feel in some way like we’re living on the coast instead of just visiting.

“Patience is a virtue” takes on new meaning during a pandemic due to the uncertainty, but as we near the moment of departure with our precautions to remain safe, healthy, and isolated, it looks like all systems are “go for launch.” Due to the obvious impatience of many, which ultimately means disrespect for themselves and others, the flare-up of COVID-19 is surging through many cities across America and around the globe. We must continue to act in our own best interest and go slow and steady with the full awareness that all around us are people who not only don’t care but also don’t believe that the pandemic is real. For nearly the entire year, our lives have been impacted, yet those in denial only demonstrate hostility, which is often directed at those who are trying to not only take precautions but also patiently retain the hope that lives will return to something like normal. This trip up the coast is one of our moments to dip back into what was normal, our reward for our own patience.

Already Out Again

Greenlee County, Arizona

Just 48 hours ago, the idea of taking off on a writing retreat isolated out on the sparsely populated Arizona/New Mexico border seemed like a brilliant idea. Now, this morning, I’m supposed to leave. I’m acutely aware of what I will sorely miss: my best friend, all-around pal, and wife, Caroline. It all seemed so easy in theory, but after these six months of never really being more than a dozen feet away from each other, my separation anxiety is gripping me. Not that I’ll give in to it, as the rationale for putting myself somewhere outside my routine is not a bad thing, and with the idea that in order to gather value from my time away, I have to pen a weighty number of words that may or may not have exceptional meaning, I will endeavor to bring them out in the thousands. What I’ll write remains a mystery in the moments before I depart.

Driving for hours across the desert, listening to nothing more than road noise and whatever murmurings my brain allows to escape, the passenger seat is sadly empty, but my heart is not as Caroline is with me even when she’s not physically there. I can’t write that without some small amount of corny feelings welling up in my fingers; come on, who writes these kinds of cliches at this age? Allow me a small amount of mea culpa, as romantic pinings are not always easy to come by when the mind is distracted with unknown things that are at the core of what’s dragging me to go and spend some time contemplating whatever it might be I could discover.

How does one live in a remote place like Duncan, Arizona, and have the same concerns as somebody who lives in a major city? How long does it take to sit somewhere where nothing is happening until you come to the point that you are okay with nothing happening in your own life? Or is my myopic view and understanding of where one’s center is broken?

Duncan, Arizona

Walking around Duncan is a lot different than using this old town as a base for other destinations. I’ve finally started to really look at things, trying to see beyond the few aesthetic sights that are part of a narrative that celebrates travel. There was once faith that Duncan was a town that held the promise that this could be a good place to live. Back then, it was farming, mining, and ranching that drove the economy, but times change, and what once had been lucrative no longer was, and with the tumult of poverty moving in, some had to move out.

Duncan, Arizona

The waxing and waning of economic vigor fluctuate with the few enterprising people who hold on to hope that there’s enough through traffic that might support a new endeavor so a small pizza joint hangs on; the Simpson Hotel is here though it’s operating on a very strict program, the Ranch House restaurant seems to have enough customers that they’ll still be here on our next visit too. As for residents, it’s hard to read the ebb and flow as many dwellings look well abandoned, though I’m reluctant to poke around to see if that’s, in fact, true.

Duncan, Arizona

It’s undeniably beautiful out here in the middle of nowhere. Well, that’s if you can define nowhere as being nearly 100 miles (160 km) from a town with at least 10,000 people living in it. To me, that’s close to nowhere, but don’t think I cast aspersions with this observation as, in some ways, I don’t believe this is remote enough, but it’s conveniently distant so that I get a good sense of being out of the wreckage of a big city. Go ahead and ask me, “Why must you disparage big cities?” Xenophobia, poor education, disappearing culture, belligerence, risk of chaos due to gross inequity, and my old worn drum beat of harping on mediocrity come to mind and are the driving forces that bring me out here to explore my thoughts if there’s something in my head that can be said differently and maybe more effectively.

Duncan, Arizona

A rainbow seems like as good a sign that something will blossom if I were to believe this natural phenomenon portended something significant, but I don’t, so I’ll just go with posting this as a nod to Caroline as we always, without fail, delight when we share a kiss under the rainbow.

Duncan, Arizona

I won’t be able to call in help or tap someone else to find inspiration while on this sojourn to search for words that would allow me to say something meaningful, even if they are so to nobody else but me. Here on this first day laden with the emotion of leaving Caroline, if even for only a short while, along with the four or 5-hour drive, I sit here at the Simpson Hotel and feel the struggle of finding much of anything to share. It’s kind of like looking in the phonebook that’s no longer there for a name I don’t know and not being able to grab the phone that has been removed to ask for information for help. So, it must be time to hang up and call it quits on this day.