Blam, You are Home

Bags packed and ready to go in Frankfurt, Germany

Bags are packed, time is short, and before we know it, we’ll be moving through the airport to take our seats for the long flight home. As I finally get around to writing this post on November 13, 2023, I have ten pages of handwritten notes to transcribe, meaning that for a post with so few photos, there will be a lot to say without me needing to add anything “from the hip.” And there’s a good reason for that: with nearly 11 hours of flight time and my intense desire to stay awake, not watch movies, and use the time to start digesting the previous month, I tried keeping my pen in touch with my notebook for the duration in the air. This was important because after we got home, we had one day to recover before hitting the treadmill, with Caroline returning to work and me starting to document our very lengthy excursion into discovery. So, without further ado, we’ll get right to the notebook, and I’ll hope my first words don’t emanate from a place where they would be better suited to be flushed into the object in the next photo.

Leaving things in Germany I won't need in the United States

We’re on the plane, but my heart and brain are trying to stay in Europe. Instead, I must face my inevitable return to Botox, yoga pants, military haircuts, guns, fanaticism, and monosyllabic vocabularies. Not even an hour up here and half the flight is already asleep.

Two hours in, and lunch is finished. [Notice that this is the two-hour mark, and I’d only written three sentences: sad.]

Our trip to Europe is on one hand over, but on the other, it is awaiting transformation in the days to come as I’ll be working to take it out of our impressions to share on my blog in as best a presentation as I can bring forth. The minor inconvenience of flying nearly a dozen hours each way seems a trifling cost considering that we were able to go so far and gather so much. Except, this foray produced a lot of material that must now be ruminated on. I’ll likely be spending the next month regurgitating our adventure while I’d like to get busy on my next project. [It turned out that I required two months to get to this point where our trip was about to be put behind us.]

While I love many of the blog posts I’ve written, there’s a nagging thought that I’ve said what I can about our travels and need to rise to a new challenge. But while I entertain this horrid idea that I’m feeling stranded on the Island of Nothing to Say, maybe this is a proper indicator that I need to take a break from leaving these messages for random people. I have, after all, absolutely neglected my synth for over a year because between, I felt I had more important things to tend to.

What is there in the meaning of our experiences? Not just the aesthetic, historical, or entertaining aspects of the palette of stuff we consumed but the possible personal legacy, the process so far, and what we’ll offer ourselves aside from the silly recognition that we were somehow occupied doing anything of particular note that should be captured for posterity? I must write about this journey into Scandinavia and visiting friends and family in Germany because I know all too well the ultimate value of these spilled words can only be known at a time that’s not yet arrived.

Just in case on Condor Airlines in Frankfurt, Germany

Now, four hours into this leg of our adventure, the vast majority of passengers are asleep at the time they would otherwise be eating dinner, having a drink, and enjoying the company of others. It is Saturday night, after all, and these travelers are likely well adjusted to the time zone we have left, but instead of occupying themselves, they’ve shown who they are and bailed on being present. Those not lost in slumber by and large watch videos, but in any case, the majority of people have decided to kill time. I instead subscribe to the school of Why kill time when you can kill yourself? [Thank Cabaret Voltaire for this last reference, which can happen while listening to music as I write.]

This has me asking the question, what do these sleepers do while traveling in Europe? Is their sightseeing and investigations akin to a visit to a kind of Ikea? Realizing I am presumptuous, I should ask myself if I experience anything in any different manner. I might try to answer this, but my first thought is that I’m a pompous ass for expecting more from others who might in some way benefit my desires and enable me to indulge my hostility to malign those who I find to be inane. I should consider showing gratitude for the hundreds onboard right now who feed me the fodder I dull my writing axe with, as certainly there are more important subjects to write of than this constant refrain of indignation. Then again, when I’m attending a musical performance, I’m among others appreciating what’s being created and are attentive to the experience, but right now, I feel like I’m in a can of dolts.

I make this denigrating assumption based on the demographic information the airlines must have about their passengers because the flight attendants have asked everyone to close their window shades to mimic an early nightfall. This gets people to go to sleep or watch their little screens to get sucked in by the dumbest fare that could only appeal to the lowest common denominator of sub-intelligent people that somehow are also able to afford international travel. Otherwise, why would they create this atmosphere?

It’s intensely bright outside with a uniform white blanket of clouds layered over the ocean below and a solid blue sky above here at 38,000 feet of elevation. Within this jet, from my observations here in the economy section, there are no conversations reliving experiences; not a single other person is journaling. Maybe in business class, people are writing, working, sorting travel photos, or reading books, but sitting in row 27 here amongst my fellow peasants, there’s only this woman next to me knitting and then a large void. This method of ignoring one’s self by turning to sleep outside of normal sleeping routines or lazily tuning in to watch whatever shite they have streaming to their seat is an admission of their boredom and inability to be with themselves when they are responsible for the content.

It’s easy to have been in Rome, Berlin, or Stockholm and take in the sights; it’s quite the other to try to contextualize experiences beyond the guttural utterance of wow and amazing. At this point in their travels, they’ve collected the trophies, they’ve bought the right souvenirs, and taken selfies that they used to put themselves on display in famous locations that gave them nothing more than bragging rights.

Over the Western United States

Let’s return to Ystad, Sweden, and the idea of why we went there and what we gained: We went in order to balance the obvious trophy visits to capital cities by investing in experiences that would bring us intimately into the surrounding environment allowing for a chance encounter with a local or a stop along the path to pick an apple, pet a horse, check out an old home, or negotiate a small shop for a random bite of mystery food. Once at a place such as Ales Stenar, we get to consider the logistics of how these rather large stones got here, what the shape of the layout meant to the people who grouped them here thousands of years ago, and did they require shaping the stones so there’d be a uniformity? Now, I have a choice to either read and believe the speculation of others to come up with answers or I could attempt my own translation of potential meaning, although that is rendered difficult in an age where everything can be explained. The disappearance of mystery is quickly erasing our ability to imagine.

We were at the edge of the sea without definitive signs or carvings on the stones to decipher what the structure could mean and so we were left with the opportunity to consider what they meant to us. Did we have any reference points in our knowledge that could offer hints regarding meaning? Once finished touching each stone, walking clockwise and counter-clockwise around the monument, and finally strolling along the edge of the cliff, we continued our ride into a place where we couldn’t express what it was we were searching for within ourselves. In Loderup, Sweden, we visited the Valleberga Church, looking at the names of those buried in its cemetery, stepping inside to smell the old church, live a moment in its history, and maybe find a runestone that was hinted as being nearby.

Further along, we considered the mill that once operated in a building next to a stream where the millworks appeared missing, with only the diverted water still running under the house. We must capture all of the impressions we can as there’s some likelihood that the people of these southern Sweden communities know little of these places around them because they are boring and consequently cannot share much about them. Most people, or at least many, would prefer to visit Stonehenge, Notre Dame, or the Vatican as these are the perceived feathers in the cap of experience. This situation is the same in Arizona, where, at times, it feels as though few have visited the Grand Canyon, though it is so near.

We were in the weeds, off the beaten path, feeling the sea air and sting of the bright sun. While we would still have famous historic sights ahead of us in the days to come, we were enchanted to be among the farms, watching cows being moved from pasture to barn and observing our solitary track alone in a corner of the countryside that only we would discover today.

Not beyond reproach, we too could fail to discover moments away from the bustle of capital city centers where quick consumption of cultural history is given easy access (often outside of context), but we make the extra effort to capture the little things. Treasure, art, and architectural wonders make for great photo souvenirs, allowing us to believe everything’s been seen, but there’s an untold story and unseen surroundings that glue things together. Do these experiences open a channel of curiosity that drives us into further study, or are we content with low-effort trophies?

Before and after visiting a city such as Prague, do we understand anything more about Bohemia, the role the Habsburgs played there, or the 30 Years War? Have we cracked open a book from Franz Kafka or known of the influence of Charles University, where Einstein taught and Tesla studied? How about learning that Rainer Maria Rilke was born and studied here? Of course, many don’t and won’t care because sports, MCU, cars, guns, and game trivia play exceedingly large roles in lives uninterested in feeding imaginations to dream and create for themselves.

I get it; just because one wants to go sightseeing in Egypt doesn’t imply they must become experts on the lives of pharaohs or the construction of pyramids. Maybe the person is satisfying a childhood dream they cultivated when wanting to live vicariously through the hero’s journey, and this pilgrimage becomes a moment of realization for reasons that might be lost to time. But isn’t this, then, an admission that our dreams haven’t matured and evolved with us as we move further into life? The very nature of our humanity encourages us to build upon our knowledge before and after experiencing stories and the novelty of being exposed to cultures that came before us and to which we could be making contributions. Instead, we eschew our continuing education, and, acting like adult children; we go through the motions, collect the selfie, and move on ultimately without direction or real purpose.

Why all this heavy axe grinding, John? I profoundly dislike our empty instant-gratification-consumption culture and desire more dialog, more music, more poetry, and more study of our world by the common person because it is the common person who also denies science, falls for conspiracies, and believes in magic thinking. I do not care a lick about their economic contribution when their intellectual failings threaten our security, lives, progress, and culture itself.

I’ve looked to philosophy, theology, history, psychology, and sociology in an attempt to understand at least a modicum of what inspires us humans. I visit more churches on average than the most devout as I seek an understanding of why we accept a mediocrity among us that seems to want to turn away from the arrow of enlightenment. By not demanding more of each other, we consent to our base archetypes propagating a generalized stupidity unseen by those who believe that their version of normal is the standard bearer. I, on the other hand believe I’m closer to a troglodyte than here I wish to be. I do not read Latin, I’m stupid when it comes to chemistry, I’ve not played with trigonometry in nearly 40 years, I paint like a four-year-old, and my sieve-like memory has seemingly forgotten 93% of everything I’ve ever taken in. In essence, I feel that I don’t know shit, and so I struggle to discover where the gaps exist while others delude themselves into believing they know all they will ever need to know.

But I do have a strong opinion that we should offer the skills of discovery to our children because adults, by and large, are a lost cause with ugly habits that exacerbate their propensity to dive into the deep end of their ignorance. Rote memorization and recital of trivia, movie lines, and obedience only act to dumb us down and harm our desire to know the world. All that remains are shadows of dreams that seem to be unfulfilled by mindless consumption, the parading of belligerence, and desultory travels. And all the while, unhappiness remains part and parcel of an unsatisfying existence that struggles to find meaning. I’m convinced that greater meaning was better understood when the heavy arm of the lord pulled the masses in and demanded their obedience to the Kingdom of God and Heaven.

Over the Western United States

We were five hours from Phoenix when the lights partially brightened to wake the herd that could be woken. Later, as we get home, I’ll feel further alienated from those whose lives are ground into the earth below our feet. The deep civility and ability to converse found in Scandinavian countries further illuminated the tragic landscape of the dark cave we are dwelling in called America. Almost 200 years ago, Alexis De Tocqueville saw the character that would define the spirit of the people of the United States. Today, the traits that should have evolved out of those humble beginnings have been vulgarized to the point of pushing the lemmings to the edge of the abyss. We are an angry horde bent on personal aggrandizement, having lost our collective way. We no longer forge exemplary people; we kill children for entertainment, ensure an adequate malaise for those suffering in a rotten existence of addiction, price people out of a minimal amount of shelter, offer a pitiful education that supports our hate and contempt, and then call it freedom.

As long as there’s a flag draped over it, we can pray and believe we’re doing God’s work for the betterment of society. We are a joke, but cannot see an iota of how sick the humor is due to our economic heft and incredible ability to market anything. We somehow make it all look good, and the world follows.

What the hell? With four hours to go, the lights were turned down again. This means that in less than two hours, at about 12:30 in the middle of the night, the crew will wake the cabin and serve us dinner. While I’m hungry, I fail to understand the enforced dark/light cycle, and considering that it’s midday across America, I feel like I should regulate the relationship to sleep myself. On the other hand, to have 300 people mostly asleep means less attention must be given to the passengers, which could be a tactic to reduce stress on the crew.

For this month of travel, I’ve not intentionally listened to music or read a book. I’ve checked the news while on the toilet and looked at but a few minutes of social media just before sleep. I’ve not intentionally used an American brand outside of my Verizon phone plan or Microsoft Windows when transferring photos. In a few hours, I’ll begin to fall into old routines unless I’m frustrated enough to try to avoid some of the old stomping grounds. There’s nobody I want to share the trip with as the impressions are not resolved yet, and I’d likely have a laundry list of places and recommendations to visit that most will never be able to explore.

It’s 11:00 p.m. in Europe; we almost certainly would have been sleeping by now, except the last two nights we were out with friends and family, which had us not seeing sleep until about midnight. While it will be 3:00 a.m. European time when we land, I’m hoping the busy hand of writing will keep me awake for the duration of the flight, allowing me to sleep better through Arizona’s Saturday night.

Sometime later, I ran out of stuff to write. Caroline has finally given in to taking a nap, and my momentum is fading. With the window shade open a couple of inches, I’m hoping that the light of day propels me. I’m reminded of one of my first encounters with a drill sergeant on day one of basic training in Kentucky on a very cold April morning in 1985 when he emerged from the shadows to see a bunch of young men shivering and barked at us, asking what we were doing. A collective voice of the group rose in the darkness of the early day, “It’s cold!” With rising ferocity in his voice, he roared at us, “Who gave you permission to be cold?” This had me laugh out loud and reconsider the idea of inherent laziness and the necessity for comfort, and so here I am asking myself, “Who gave me permission to be tired?”

Arriving in Phoenix, Arizona

Conditioning, pandering, exploitation, I’m just now figuring out how the airlines are programming the herd to follow their expectations of how the masses should fall into step. A passenger in the row in front of us has been on a Rocky movie marathon. I had noticed after boarding that the entertainment offerings featured both Avatar films, all the Harry Potter movies, and five of the Pirates of the Caribbean films, but I lost count of how many of the eight Rocky films were available. When I was younger, I wouldn’t have found this nefarious, but let’s look at what’s happening here: recognizing people’s propensity to binge-watch things, these people are returning to routines within minutes of ending a vacation by allowing their minds to go fallow. Following such immersive experiences with this stream of banality feels to me as if one is fertilizing their mind with the shit of the mundane, thus covering up what they just spent thousands to acquire.

Endurance: we are approaching a spot on the planet where we’ll be under three hours remaining in flight near the border between Canada and North Dakota. Going nowhere in your seat while being thrust over the earth at 550 mph doesn’t have the same compelling effect as dragging oneself over the street of discovery where so much is to be found. I struggle to latch onto moments where wakefulness remains within grasp. After 28 days of constant go, I will indulge for one day on Sunday when nothing will be demanded of our time, but on Monday, the next cycle of non-stop endurance will be re-embraced.

The desperation that I will fail to make the final 1,500 miles of our trip awake taunts me. I negotiate small milestones, telling myself that dinner will be served in less than an hour or that if I pay attention, maybe I’ll see something spectacular out of my tiny window. I should open the shade wide to have the flash of the harshly brilliant atmosphere at 40,000 feet better communicate with my pineal gland, shocking the melatonin to stay in submission until later.

At least the blank page had lines on it for the time I was staring at it while my brain didn’t even have that. Noise is coming from the galley, but the lights remain off. We land in two hours and twenty minutes, yet most passengers are still asleep. We left Germany at 3:00 in the afternoon on Saturday, and here we are at about 3:00 in the afternoon on Saturday, except we are 5,000 miles from where we began and just under 1,000 miles from touching down. Our adventure of endurance and exploration that touched all of our senses, never allowing us to catch up with how far we were going is getting ever closer to ending.

To be relentless and able to embrace/tap our enthusiasm, heading directly into constant stimulation, is a reassurance that we are still alive in ways that are appreciated and never taken for granted by these people still seated in the 27th row.

Another hour has passed, and I’m done, but the flight isn’t. Once landed, we’ll likely wait for what will feel like an eternity or 20 minutes before getting our two checked bags from the carousel, followed by stepping into what will likely be over 100 degrees (38 Celsius) of desert heat. We’ll grab a taxi and 30 minutes later arrive at home to begin the post-vacation quick unpacking, start laundry, turn down the air-conditioning, consider shopping, or just drop down in front of our computers to start catching up with all the dumb shit we’ve missed out on.

Seriously, We Leave Frankfurt Tomorrow!

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Caroline had this nutty idea that I should collage the first five photos of this post into a single shot. Is she crazy or what? We are quickly approaching the final 24 hours of our time in Europe this year, and while we’ll be eating Brötchen for breakfast tomorrow, too, I can’t know if I’ll have time to spare to lovingly photograph the final German rolls of our trip.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

While at Café Dillenburg fetching breakfast, we put in an order for tomorrow’s Brötchen, some of which will be traveling home with us. Why hadn’t we thought of this on previous visits? Once home, we’ll toss them into the freezer and likely forget about them until they are freezer-burned, but no matter because they are echte Deutsche Brötchen (real German rolls), and if you don’t know what that can mean, you haven’t indulged yourself and learned how to appreciate something that is like nowhere else.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Pictured are the five types of Brötchen we are taking home, two of each. Sadly, I can’t now tell you what each is anymore, but I do know we have a mix of potato, carrot, rye, spelt, and whole-grain rolls. The choices were based on a sampling of the no fewer than a dozen types they carry at Café Dillenburg (formerly known as Brot & Freunde). While there are only twelve or so varieties on weekdays, the weekends can see as many as nineteen on offer.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Okay, I’ve got this one; it is a potato Brötchen with sesame and poppy seeds. Guide for eating my favorite rolls: cut in half and then slice width-wise, creating four equal quarters. Slather a heart-stopping amount of butter on a quarter; don’t pay attention to the German example where you can hardly tell they’ve smeared anything on the bread. Then, using a separate spoon, take the perfect amount of homemade vanilla-apricot jam (it’s important to stay away from all other jams) and be judicious as you don’t want to put the entire jar on a single quarter, else you might have to turn to a plum, rhubarb, or orange marmalade that will ruin the Brötchen experience. Someone like Caroline would likely beg to differ, but she’s a noob compared to her gourmet husband, who seriously knows everything better than everyone else.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

I know why Caroline suggested the collage; she could have never guessed that I could write so much about the beloved Brötchen, and even if I had run out of meaningful banter, having the full-size photo of each allows me to indulge in the fantasy of the Brötchen being right in front of me here in America where I’m absolutely deprived of real bread. Don’t try telling me that Dave’s Killer Bread is pretty good; else, I’ll present you with another gold floor decoration you can lick, as you are obviously gullible enough to believe anything.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Guten Morgen Frau Engelhardt! I followed along with Caroline and Stephanie to Lebenshaus before bringing Jutta over to Cafe Einstein for a mid-morning treat and to say goodbye because tomorrow, we really do fly away, even if you started thinking we were going to be here forever after so many blog posts from Europe. Mom and her two daughters will spend a bit more time over their coffees after I leave before they, too, will say their goodbyes. From here, Caroline and Stephanie will have a sisters’ day out in Mainz. Caroline might add another blog entry about their adventure in the future.

This old lady, closer to the end of her life than the beginning, is all about love. This idea was nearly lost on her as she drifted near the pit of relative unhappiness (abject acceptance) right up to the age of retirement. Sadly, my mother-in-law, in her first decades on earth, only knew a kind of sterile, cold, matter-of-fact type of love. Today, she enjoys laughter that comes from within instead of a superficial, perfunctory chuckle that fails the authenticity test.

We are keenly aware that each visit with Jutta could be the last, and I believe that Caroline, Jutta, and I are okay with that; Stephanie, I’m not so sure of. I’m fairly certain that my sister-in-law will experience profound loss at Jutta’s passing as something feels unresolved, but I’m not at ease to inquire as I think I’d risk opening an avenue of hurt.

And so we’ll share a hug and offer hope for another brief visit in the morning, but time is short in those brief hours before we fly and so my goodbye for another year or two has to be memorable as I take in her smile. I have to wonder how many goodbyes are shared between people after they’ve accepted the limited time remaining for one of them though that limitation effectively hovers over all of us?

Bad Soden tram stop near Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus wasn’t with us this morning as he had to attend a conference call for work. While the women had their own ideas, Klaus had made plans that had him and me meeting up at Hauptwache so we could catch a train to Bad Soden. From there, we’d board a bus over to Königstein im Taunus, not too far outside of Frankfurt.

Currywurst in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

We were heading into the mountains to experience the best currywurst known to humankind while the plain white Kaiserbrötchen should be considered a travesty to the German culinary experience and banned in Europe.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Just kidding, we are out for a hike on the 3 Burgenweg, which ideally would have been a 13.5 kilometers (8.4 miles) hike, but we dawdled. Phew, good to get that out of the way, but what would one expect when two guys armed with cameras hit the trail on a warm, blue-sky day? Klaus assured me that this is a well-marked trail due to the hiking club that maintains the signage. Well, that might have been an overstatement.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

The evidence of suboptimal route marking is seen right here: Our hike was supposed to lead us right over to the Burgruine Königstein (Königstein Castle Ruin), which is the first part of the “3 Castles Trail” we are hiking today. We decided to forego that castle at this time and catch it at the end of the loop since we had no idea that we would leave the trail in Kronberg to make our dinner reservations at a favorite Portuguese restaurant of Klaus and Stephanie.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Okay then, off to Castle Falkenstein, which sounded a bit like Castle Frankenstein to me, though I already knew that Frankenstein is over near Darmstadt.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I tried my best to Photoshop the haze out of this three-image panorama, but this is as good as I got. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a clearer image of the city I called home for so many years from such a distance as today. Off to the right, we could see the planes taking off at the Frankfurt Airport while in the background, about 55 kilometers (35 miles) away, is what I believe to be the Odenwald mountain range.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

And before we knew it, we were at the foot of Castle Falkenstein.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I think Klaus and I were both surprised that the ruins were open, and not only that…

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

…the tower was also open, offering us this view of the northeast corner of Königstein.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is the most un-hospital-looking hospital I’ve ever seen.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Eat these and have a reason to visit the un-hospital-looking hospital.

Klaus Engelhardt on 3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Thanks, Klaus, for picking a perfect day and a perfect trail through the Taunus Mountains.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe because it was only Friday afternoon and not the weekend, but we only encountered a few people, mostly on other trails that bisected our own.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This was a huge surprise seeing that nobody would fault one for thinking that all Jewish cemeteries in Germany were wiped off the face of the earth during the Nazi reign, but then you come across one and can only scratch your head and wonder, “How did this survive?”

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Following Klaus, as he handles the guidance responsibilities, absolves me of anything more than being present. What an awesome gift on our last day in Germany. No thinking, just wandering.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is Bürgelplatte, which appears to be all that remains of what might have been a small castle a long time ago.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

It’s a shame that when I was in my 20s, I thought nightlife was the best life for me and that these places surrounding Frankfurt were for old people. Well, here I am now, an old person proving younger me right.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I wonder where this giant boulder came from. Is it a glacial erratic, or was it unearthed? I don’t believe it fell off a formerly high cliff landing here before erosion wore away the mountain. I tried learning something about it, but while others have photographed it, I can find no explanation for the mystery boulder.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve reached Kronberg Castle, which is closing in just a few minutes. No matter, as we need a bite to eat and something to drink before catching a train back to Frankfurt to join Caroline and Stephanie for dinner.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

In the mid-1980s, after arriving in Germany with the U.S. Army, I spent my first six months wandering the Rhein-Main area of Hessen and went to countless villages via anonymous train stops that I kept no record of. I have no recollection if I’ve ever visited the castle herein Kronberg but I want to return with Caroline now that I’ve stopped here.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

These are the Drei Ritter (Three Knights) at Friedrich Ebert Straße in Kronberg. The characters above represent debauchery, and the words below translate to, “Your advice is far too late.”

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is St. Johann Church, and it’s Protestant, so I can just forget about entering on a Friday.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Gasthaus Adler has a menu that talks to me, it even screams at me to return for its Austrian-influenced eats.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

How I managed to snag this photo from a moving train will always be a surprise, as they so rarely work out. Klaus and I were on our way to Tasquinha da Jacinta to sample some Portuguese cooking at one of Klaus and Stephanie’s favorite restaurants in the Frankfurt area. Sorry, there are no photos of us or our meals but it was so nice to relax and do nothing that I took advantage of the moment to just hang out. Dinner was great, though you’ll wait a good long time for service since the place is popular, packed, and only open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Ginnheim tram stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Passing through the Ginnheim tram stop, look closely; this is a self-portrait.

Zeilweg tram stop in Heddernheim, Germany

If only the day were over! We need to knock out the majority of our packing so we can avoid as much stress in the morning as possible. Talk about using every single moment of vacation to remain busier than we ever are at home: this was quite the endurance test. For all intents and purposes, vacation is over.

The Comment That Became a Post

Claudia Wollny and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

This is the first comment that rose to a level that demanded I convert it into a post. On this day, when Claudia and Caroline were hanging out, I was able to selfishly slip away for writing and ice cream. I was hoping that Caroline was going to post a little something about her and Claudia’s time together, but it has turned out that Claudia beat Caroline to the punch by leaving a very sweet comment in German on my entry. I asked my wife for a translation so I could post it here because it doesn’t belong unseen below a blog entry:

It was a magical day – almost as if time had stopped breathing for a moment. The sun was shining and it was somehow unreal to actually see each other when we usually just chat. I would like to add a few more memories from my perspective.

The day before, I was panicking because I had wanted to come by car. It’s a good thing that I came by train after all. I was so happy to meet Caroline and finally get to know John in person (who had initially planned to just say hello and then bow out politely). Naturally, he was immediately “arrested” and had to have coffee with us, followed by lunch at an Italian restaurant. How thoughtful of John to swap seats with me because my spot was a bit drafty. We spoke both German and English, which worked very well.

After lunch, John sought some alone time, mindful of their imminent departure for America. So, after walking through the pedestrian zone looking for a pleasant spot, Caroline and I ended up heading to the same elegant café where we had enjoyed our coffee outside earlier that morning. Since, as we all know, calories don’t count when traveling, we grasped the moment and, without hesitation, indulged in the tastiest ice cream sundaes with hot raspberries and cream. I conceded halfway through – which is not my usual style – Caroline held out a little longer…

Unfortunately, time passed far too quickly, and so we rushed to the train station, where my train was already waiting.

One last hug, and then another, and another…. three, four? … while we nervously awaited the impending call for the train’s departure. Then, impermanence struck, and the doors closed. Like a dream.

Claudia

Are We Gone Yet? Nope, This is Frankfurt

Heddernheim in Frankfurt, Germany

Good morning to the dawn, and hello to the light of day. Thank you for welcoming us into another waking moment where we can consider how we might use our time to wander into the most amazing lives we’ll ever know.

Heddernheim in Frankfurt, Germany

And here comes the sun to shine on Café Dillenburg where we are fetching our daily bread and entertaining the idea that we could bring some of their Brötchen home with us, and I’m not only talking about this home away from home at Haus Engelhardt. With our morning meal bagged up, we raced back to Blauwiesenweg, where the butter and all variety of jams will join a pot of coffee for the greatest breakfast ever experienced. Unless you know the real pleasures of echtes Deutsches Brot, you cannot relate to my endorsement of this fascination and luxury to be had when munching on fresh Brötchen with homemade jams.

Frankfurt, Germany

No time to spare as we have things to do and people to see. The vacation within the vacation continues, while the vacation from vacation(s) will have to wait until Saturday night after we land and all of Sunday before Caroline steps back into work and I get busy trying to knock out a bunch of blog posts. Having only about 36 hours of recuperation sounds dire and likely difficult considering our age, but that’ll be nothing a lot of coffee can’t conquer.

Frankfurt, Germany

Who schedules these itineraries? It’s already 9:45 as we near the corner where Lebenshaus sits across from the Main River; our first date of the day is expecting us any minute.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Guten Morgen, Frau Engelhardt. Hello, Mr. Wise. With the formalities out of the way and Jutta finished with her breakfast, we offer the briefest of visits as we are meeting someone at the Hauptbahnhof in less than an hour, but we’ll be back later.

Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Yo dude, how’s God?

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Check the background; God is everywhere.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

I wonder, too, about how many times I’ve shared a photo from right here at Römer, but today, I’m trying something new; later, I’ll share another photo of Römerberg but from a different angle.

Subway station in Frankfurt, Germany

While this might look like a decoration in the floor of something or other, it’s actually a 1000-year-old rod of gold that was buried by a Valkyrie and is said to provide eternal life to all those who lick it to taste the flavor of Valhalla that it connects to. I swear.

Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

Seems I might have misread this sign in the past. A dozen years ago, Caroline and I were visiting the Montreal Basilica, and I thought this sign (displayed without the Psst message) was a signal to parents that it was okay for children to pick their noses, but seeing the sign like this changes the meaning significantly. I thought about correcting that old post, but I’ve decided to leave it as proof that for once in my 60 years, I’m owning one of my mistakes.

Claudia and Caroline Wise at the Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

It was just a year ago that this mystery woman on the left (I already know the one on the right) was this elusive figure from the Cologne, Germany, area the world had never seen. Today, I’m unmasking her: she is Claudia, the Brünnhilde of fiber arts, kumihimo, and tablet weaving, to be exact. Last year, Caroline traveled north to see her in person for the first time; today, Claudia traveled south so these two could meet again. How they have anything to discuss is beyond me as they chat on a near-daily basis, making the most of the time between Caroline going to sleep and Claudia’s waking to punctuate some rare time Claudia seems to find between performing her super-human; I think Nietzsche called it “Ubermenschian,” feats of fiber knowledge distillery that could only have emerged from mythology.

Caroline Wise's foot and her friend Claudia in Frankfurt, Germany

I think jealousy is in order here because consider this: Caroline loves me and makes me socks. Claudia has knitted a pair of socks for Caroline that she’s modeling right here, and while blurred, I think it’s obvious that Claudia is looking lovingly at this “wedding banded sock” pattern that I think the women were hoping I wouldn’t notice.

After allowing Claudia to buy us lunch because who doesn’t need a free meal after what we just spent in Scandinavia, I stormed off in a jealous huff of rage to drown my sorrows.

Frankfurt, Germany

At first, I considered throwing myself on the subway tracks, but this poster looking for leads of a corpse found in the Spandau forest back in 1988 kind of depressed me. Those haunting, hollow eyes made me realize that death wasn’t an option for me. But ice cream was.

Spaghetti Eis at Eis Christina in Nordend Frankfurt, Germany

The race against time unwinding is on with only 48 hours left before we step out of Europe to return home to the U.S. I’d opened a small window of two hours where I’d attempt to plumb some inspiration to write, but the limitation feels harrowing as my inclination is to shove the intensity of the previous month onto the page in as many words that I can wring out of my hand. I didn’t anticipate that the location I’d chosen to find my wit would be as busy as I found it, but it was a beautiful late summer day at the most popular ice cream shop in Frankfurt. I should have moved to a coffee shop, but minutes are precious when the clock cannot be paused.

Life is like this bowl of ice cream, refreshing and sweet, but it’s melting and will go away. I have a choice not to finish every drop and allow the remainder to be carried off, but who would allow a second or a drop to not be savored?

For 34 years, I’ve been returning to this corner at Wielandstrasse and Eckenheimer Landstrasse in Frankfurt’s north end. I lived nearby for six years and took everything other than my relationship with Caroline for granted as it was all just normal life of no special importance. Only in retrospect have I gained the perspective that the years of our 20s contribute greatly to our romantic notions and nostalgia for the world we were exploring as it lingers into the years. We were defining and shaping the people who would enter the next decade excited or bored, satisfied or angry, challenged or defeated.

Frankfurt, Germany

I see a couple of elderly ladies well into their 80s at an adjacent table while seemingly mirror images from their past; two young ladies about 21 years old are seated at the table on their other side. The young women have no idea yet that their future selves are already forming inside them and that what is so intensely important to them on this day will lose all importance before they know it. The rapid advancement and intrusion of technology and an ever-present media have torn the fabric between generations into irreparable shreds where the groups are nearly alien to each other. There is no regard for the elderly, who are bulldozed into giving up their bearings and made to feel incompetent, while youth have no time for studied reflection or even self-study before having to respond to the next wave of electronic stimulation.

When do we arrive at the place where we start to gather the knowledge that will best serve us? Are we collectively fooled into believing that the essentials are found in clothes, hair products, a favorite sports franchise, the band we currently love, or the subject blowing up on viral media? To be a composite of media contrivances is a cruel joke on the masses who feast upon anything other than the bitter questions of what it might mean to exist.

Frankfurt, Germany

There’s no suggestion that any particular area of study is going to deliver a hint of enlightenment or happiness. Likewise, only the idiot would fall for what’s being fed to society. For the sake of transparency, I, too, have played the idiot, and to an extent and on occasion still do. But, I also have some inkling that I must struggle in the word soup of my mind and ask myself: is this good enough? Have I been wasting my precious attention?

The line at the ice cream shop snaked around the corner as a kind of proof that we gravitate towards the sweet, and rarely do we lineup for the bitter. Bitterness introduces a grimace and the consternation that we have to contextualize our experience to find the value; it is not readily apparent. Time for me to go for a walk.

Starting from Nordend, I walked until I reached the Alte Nikolaikirche (Old St. Nicholas Church) on Römerberg. I dipped inside to take a respite from the bustle of the busiest square in the city. There are four of us in the church, which is peculiar when one considers how frequently it’s photographed. Then again, who on a sunny Thursday afternoon is interested in communing with their soul? The house of God is cold and nearly empty, and I suppose rightfully so when cake & coffee or a beer under a warming sun invites indulgence. I wonder if Jesus stands in a corner wondering where his faithful are.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Turning from the Lord, whom I do not know, to my mother-in-law, whom I’m quite familiar with, I leave the church for the short walk to Lebenshaus but not before delivering that second promised photo from a different angle of Römerberg.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

We must try our best to capture the increasingly rare moments of the few that still exist, with those who have had impactful impressions upon who we’ve become. The math of what remains with a person of 88 years of age under their hat is one of numbers growing smaller. While my mother-in-law had nothing to do with my upbringing or early life impressions, she did have those impacts on the woman with whom I fell head over heels in love, her daughter Caroline. Not only that though, Jutta spent many a vacation with us in the United States, and in every departing, I had to contend with how I saw myself and how I interacted with Caroline’s mother. Her initial visits tended to be marred by my lack of sympathy and understanding of aging people. I struggled with the intransigence of someone habituated to a routine incompatible with my own. Reconciling my belligerence helped me grow and understand where the roots of those poisons were planted and what fed them; if I’m lucky, lessons were pressed right into my heart, and today, I’m a better person for my time shared with this lady.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Shoot, earlier, I went on some made-up tirade about some tryst or something between Caroline and Claudia; yeah, well, I was joking, but I did go have a Spaghetti Eis because every time is a good time for a treat from Eis Christina. Sadly, upon our return to Phoenix, we learned that after 50 years in business, Eis Christina is calling it quits, at least at this location, as they left a hint they could open elsewhere in the future, but that remains uncertain.

What is certain is that Caroline still loves me and will still make socks for me and that she loves her mother. Rarely does a Sunday pass while we are in the States that these two don’t talk on the phone for at least a couple of hours, and while we are in Germany, we try to take every opportunity to say hi, take her out for a sweet, sit with her next to the river, have a coffee, and simply share time with her.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

So much beauty, potential for happiness, and great moments can be found in a day, though this seems amplified by the fact that we are traveling and only in places momentarily. Stopping to think about it, isn’t that what we have at home, too? What is it about routine that throws a pall over the day? Could it be that while engaged in habit, we forget to look up and see what our reality is? Well, I think it’s that and something else, which is the attitude of those around us. If the outlook of those around us carries an intellectual pallor that is gloomy and full of dark storms, we risk getting pulled into their maelstrom. We can walk across the bridge with someone we love and with whom we enjoy smiling and delight at the opportunity to be taking in life, but we can also fail to see any hope due to depression and gravity that pulls those exposed to negativity and despair into the void.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

I think of my own days walking through this city, unable to see the brilliance of the day, when everything was cast in shades of gray due to my dejection of not only feeling like an outsider in this foreign land but also because I felt like an outsider of the human race. That version of me, which wasn’t a daily thing but frequent enough that scars remain, is a person I’m happy to have left behind. Hardly a day goes by where I don’t wonder why society cultivates this type of harm against those who are vulnerable and what it is in the human character that desires to hurt those already in pain. While I’m an atheist, I still care for those who are poor, not only financially but poor of confidence and societal acceptance due to some perceived flaws that allow those of privilege to cast aspersions.

I’m not one considering an entry to the idea of heaven, but to too many of those who claim faith, how do you reconcile your blatant ignorance of the book that holds many lessons that are wholesome and good with the harm you inflict on the poor, hurt, and depressed people that are likely suffering due to your lack of concern to repair a society that rewards harm and aggression against those who cannot defend against your systems? Isn’t it your bible where the quote, It is easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for a rich man to enter into the kingdom of God, comes from?

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

Please don’t take this last quote that a rich man is only the person with a lot of money; it pertains to all of us who have a rich life even if we are not financially in the greatest of places. What do we give to others? What do we take away or deny? Are we only rowing forward for our own sake? I supposed I’m okay with that reality, but then let’s put the pretense of some Christian ideology behind us. Let’s do away with the lies and admit that we are selfish, petulant little assholes enjoying the greed bag of stuff we can claw away from others. You, who give back through sharing knowledge, care, art, music, medicine, teaching, and protecting others, are the best part of Team Humanity that society cultivates on the margin.

Olaf and Sylvia with John and Caroline in Frankfurt, Germany

Today feels like a lesson in how to slice time into a hundred pieces. We started with breakfast at Haus Engelhardt, dipped in on Jutta, met up with a distant friend, ate ice cream, wrote, returned to Jutta, thought some more, and wrote, finishing the day with dinner in honor of our friends Olaf and Sylvia and their (by now young adult) children Johnny and Lucy. While this was possibly in recognition of Olaf’s upcoming birthday, I think it was more about friends getting together on one of the rare opportunities we are in proximity to each other’s orbit.

On our way, we stumbled past Dal Bianco Pizza on Darmstädter Landstrasse, which appears to be the long-lost place that I thought had the greatest garlic bread ever back when I lived in Sachsenhausen for some months around 1991, but that’s another story. I’m leaving this note here with the hopes that on a subsequent visit to Germany, we’ll remember that I left his breadcrumb. Closing out the night, Olaf introduced me to a couple of things he’s currently listening to; at the top of the list for me is the psychedelic band Wooden Shjips; he also encouraged me a listen to Little Simz, born to Nigerian parents in London, England. I find her real name, Simbiatu “Simbi” Abisola Abiola Ajikawo, far more interesting than Little Simz.

Moving in Reverse to Find the Exit

Caroline Wise at a tram stop in Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve been here before, meaning almost everywhere in Frankfurt. I feel no urgency to photograph anything because to see things unseen before today will prove difficult. A walk along the Main River, a visit to the cathedral, or any number of points? I no longer feel the pull to reacquaint myself with this city that is incredibly familiar and simultaneously distant. This is likely obvious if you’ve seen yesterday’s post that was a reflection of how unmotivated I was to document anything and only managed to share nine images and barely a thousand words.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and Katharina Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Important memories though remain essential, and before leaving Caroline, Jutta, and Katharina to have a lady’s afternoon, I had to grab a group shot to memorialize the generations.

Locks on Eiserner Steg bridge in Frankfurt, Germany

Others are more interested in leaving a love lock on a bridge, which is a way of tagging a space and showing that “Kilroy and his girlfriend were here.” Throwing the keys into the river assures their love cannot be undone which ultimately ends in tragedy because someone must come along and destroy this connection by cutting it off the railing and disposing of it. Then again, all things are temporary, and the sentiment of the moment of leaving this visual sign for others is a romantic notion worth celebrating.

Frankfurt, Germany

If you are a native English speaker and could read this, you might think it’s a joke, but Die Partei is real and holds one seat in the European Parliament. As for the messaging of the sticker, it reads Fuck All of You! As for their name, The Party, yes, it is a satire of fascist parties and is also a backronym meaning Partei für Arbeit, Rechtsstaat, Tierschutz, Elitenförderung und basisdemokratische Initiative (“Party for Labour, Rule of Law, Animal Protection, Promotion of Elites and Grassroot-Democratic Initiative”). In America, we have a rigid two-party system that languishes in a stalemate of lethargy while compromise has been lost to hate and division.

Frankfurt, Germany

This city remains in constant motion, a stream of things, ideas, architecture, culture, people, and the flow of the river that slices through it. Everything is changing, a perpetual movement that doesn’t stop for people, time, or the stupidity of politics and biases that so often stymie cities and populations in the United States. Frankfurt has a peculiar nature of drawing things in and pushing them right back out, be it capital, music, philosophy, art, trade, or whatever it is that needs to find wider distribution.

Frankfurt, Germany

This constant movement of change doesn’t stop people from trying to hold onto time by entering routines where places and favorite stops along the way are habituated. Jobs and school help lend ideas of permanence, as do the hymns sung at church. There will always be those searching for consistency that assures them that they are living in a kind of eternal moment where their existence might remain until the end of their time on earth.

Begging in Frankfurt, Germany

And then age makes an appearance. Not the common day-to-day, year-to-year kind of stuff but the shuffling, walker, or cane-assisted slow pull into dissonance that will affect us all. Will you schlep your frame with grace or will you deny what everyone else around already knows? Denial among the elderly regarding their situation is as rife as the young are oblivious that they are spending their precious years chasing marketing dreams and fantasies created by capital.

Frankfurt, Germany

Did I see even one Litfaßsäule (advertising column) in Scandinavia or a wall at a train station featuring upcoming events? For all the talking we did with locals, we never asked about the local cultural scene. Reason #39 to return.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Heading to Bergerstrasse in Bornheim Mitte, long-time residents will lament perceived gentrification, but the reality is more likely that the elderly of the aging neighborhood will move into assisted living like my mother-in-law did, and the young professionals and foreigners will be seen as interlopers ruining the place, just as Caroline and I get that vibe about Nordend where we used to live.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

The generation that took up residence here was coming of age and growing up out of the conflict of war. They are rapidly aging out, and as they leave Bornheim, the businesses that catered to them are no longer trendy, and the new residents are demanding services that speak to their dreams. Churn will happen, and businesses will leave, but if this corner of Frankfurt is lucky, laughter will return as many a grumpy old person appears to have lost the ability to laugh. Look at those who remain; there is a weary misery behind their eyes as they grow increasingly isolated.

Writing in Frankfurt, Germany

Of those who are young but in misery, the human necessity to explore waking dreams is largely broken. Maybe someone wasn’t able to identify with their parents or friends who were too focused on their own interests to support the child/teen. Other parents are more interested in pushing their own agenda on the indifferent child. Using children as surrogates of the self and our unrealized dreams, we spurn the mystery of what is sparking the imagination of a youngster. What sparks the curiosity of young people cannot be known or controlled by adults dominating this evolving person. At best, we can take a keen interest in the aspirations of others and allow them to share ideas with us instead of foisting ourselves on them. Isn’t this relationship the basis of a sharing love between people anyway?

Frankfurt, Germany

A mentoring inspirational role is a preferable path compared to the more often employed master/slave dictatorial relationship that brings out resentment or uncertainty. How is love given, and how is it taken or received? What happens when it’s demanded?

Döner Kebab in Frankfurt, Germany

We can recycle many things and will need to dispose of others. We can acquire skills, money, property, and lunch, but we have no means of trading emotions and dreams that can be intrinsically absorbed by others. Maybe stories can offer glimmers of possibilities if the listener is already familiar with what they can feed us.

Frankfurt, Germany

We either define our path in terms that are compatible with the herd, or we suffer being cast down the wrong trail where the chasm of the downtrodden falls into ruin. Once lost in despair, we often perform enough self-abuse to finish the harm our parents and society managed to miss. Deeply confused and wondering if we are the only ones experiencing such uncertainty, we can choose to ignore the nagging thoughts about existence. Are we on the right track, or must we inebriate ourselves, blaming our existential angst on factors perceived to be bigger than ourselves? From here, we can turn to God if we haven’t already, which is likely a valid salve for most people as it offers a quick and absolving message to trust God for all of these issues that are larger than we are.

Frankfurt, Germany

Who among us has time, mentors, or interest to answer big questions when the need for instant gratification looms over us and takes us down the path of consumption? Finding the headspace to explore the voids within can be treacherous going for the intellectually ill-equipped. Even those inclined to delve into the fragile domain of understanding and self-discovery often discover the risks, faltering into a pit of malaise built of their own making.

Frankfurt, Germany

Awareness of pitfalls is only the smallest factor in this equation. How to help one another find love and respect that can buffer a hostile inner and outer world is a dilemma I struggle to document as I go writing. Because I seem to have found my way, I’m desperate to formalize it into a recipe I could share, but meeting with resistance from others who feel that their brand of uncertainty and confusion is unique to them, I must first unravel the threads that separate us.

Grüne Soße in Frankfurt, Germany

Seeds give rise to plants; plants mature and become food that also produces more seeds, which perpetuates the cycle of replenishment. On a farm, weeds invade the cultivated fields, and for a time, our scientists believed that the most poisonous of substances that were prone to unintended side effects were needed to enter into warfare against undesirable growth. This is nearly identical to how we deal with people on the margins of society: we wish they would disappear. We poison them with drugs, alcohol, incarceration, and homelessness, and while some perish and vanish, those that remain inadvertently create consequences that feed a sense of crisis among those of us who wonder why our neighborhoods have taken on apocalyptic appearances.

Frankfurt, Germany

Breaking out new laws to wash the scourge away will never work, nor will militarized police forces but the alternative of trying to bring back a society to a kind of order of the mind and not rotting in mediocrity might be a task too grand for hope. The proverbial saying, “You made your bed, now lie in it,” tells us to face the consequences of our actions and that might be exactly what is facing us. No amount of soap can clean away our self-centered stupidity that puts the accumulation of wealth above all else, including the divine.

Drunk in Frankfurt, Germany

This man is piss-drunk, literally. His pants are wet down to his feet. He is so drunk that he spills most of the beer he has no interest in drinking because he’s consumed by wild gesturing and engaging me in conversation while I can’t make sense of a single slurred word. He had two bottles in his hands but one was flung without him noticing that it left his orbit. It was gladly picked up by another drunkard, surprised as much as I was that the bottle hadn’t shattered. This is how I see my fellow Americans, a ranting mess of piss-drunk nationalists unaware that they are throwing their democracy away like it’s a worthless bottle of beer all because they love reveling in jingoistic bullshit that only makes sense to the other inebriated half-wits, unaware of how stupid and lost they appear.

Writing in Frankfurt, Germany

That’s all I’ve got. I’ve stopped again and again today to write and didn’t go very far walking around Frankfurt. I imagine that Jutta, Caroline, and Katharina were off enjoying themselves, not kvetching about the ills of society. Maybe I absolve them of needing to yammer about such things thus allowing them to enjoy each other company while I work out the gravity of what ails us. This is part of my burden; my Sisyphean struggles with a pen.

Frankfurt, Germany

Enough of that; time for dinner with the Engelhardts in celebration of Stephanie’s birthday. Klaus had gotten a tip that this vegan Vietnamese place was highly recommended, and if getting a reservation on a Wednesday night is as difficult as this was, then it must be the popular place. Well, by the time we were leaving Ong Tao the restaurant was packed. For Germany, I understand why this place is popular, and vegan options are all the rage in many big cities in this part of Europe. They have a good thing going, but those of us who have had the opportunity to eat authentic Vietnamese food likely have a better understanding of just how much serious flavor is missing. All the same, we were not here for our own culinary experience; it was for Stephanie and her 58th Geburtstag.

Caroline Wise at Gluckstrasse 8 in Frankfurt, Germany

For the first time in 28 years, after finding an open door, we stepped into Gluckstrasse 8,  the building in which Caroline and I lived together before moving to the United States. How strange it was to head up to “our” door. Had someone been there, I would have knocked just to have a peek inside. Sure, this is where our love blossomed but not without an amount of tumult that makes the fact that we are still together all the more surprising.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany is moving closer to disgorging us as we travel almost in reverse compared to the way we came into our vacation.

Going Home, Before Going Home

Flying out of Bergen, Norway

Who needs alarms when flying early in the morning? Not us; we were up about 10 minutes before our wrists were supposed to start vibrating at 4:00 a.m. In quick order, we were dressed and headed downstairs to wait for the taxi we’d arranged for yesterday.

Flying over Europe somewhere

Above it all and mostly distanced after 17 days in Scandinavia, we are still in a relatively safe space but that was coming to an unexpected end.

Flying over Germany

Two hours after leaving Norway, we are on the streets of Frankfurt, dragging our bags along for our first stop. On the train out of the airport, we noticed a marked difference between the polite and trusting Scandinavian culture we had left behind and the brusque and maybe even abrasive Germans. After 17 days of super civility, I wasn’t ready for the rude high school kids on a field trip riding in the same direction as us. Sadly, and yes, I’m aware that this will carry a hint of racism, their ethnicity combined with their aberrant behavior is part of what is likely giving rise to/sustaining the evergrowing nationalism in countries that are trying to integrate a growing immigrant population due to their own shrinking population. If you live in one of Germany’s big cities, you are likely inured to this spectacle of crass antics, but I can see how small towns would feel the sting.

The perspective shift of being enchanted when we land in Germany coming in from the U.S. is lost on entering from Scandinavia. Germany can be a bit cold and distant, but it’s mostly polite, respectful, and rule-driven, in stark contrast to the potential-of-violence-at-any-moment style of American uncertainty. If I’m reluctant about returning to the States after we visited Europe, this will be amplified when we return to Phoenix this coming weekend.

Frankfurt, Germany

Frühstück (breakfast) was at Cafe Liebfrauenberg near Kleinmarkthalle. Not our first choice, but with our bags in tow (including the broken-wheel suitcase), we were more interested in shortening the distance between getting something to eat and visiting with my mother-in-law, Jutta. While still sipping my coffee, Caroline zipped around the corner to a sewing shop, hoping to find a few notions she might be able to use to repair her quickly disintegrating purse strap that, after years of constant use, was about to render the bag useless.

Here I am, no longer just a tourist. I should be able to write something meaningful, but constant distractions drag my eye and mind to watching the goings on around me instead of slipping into exploring the profound. To write, I must drop into a kind of routine where my focus is undisturbed by novelty. When I’m able to look within and between the thoughts that give rise to impressions, my hand feels mysteriously compelled to leave words on the page. I’m aware that the majority of words that fall from my pen can be mundane and mediocre, but on occasion, I find that what has appeared from a recess of my mind exceeds any hopes I might have had to produce such eloquence. That is what I’d like to aim for all the time.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve moved over to Lebenshaus, but Jutta is participating in an exercise program, and while we can see her, she’s not become aware of us yet. As we watch, I see residents I’ve become familiar with over the past couple of years and notice that changes in aging for the elderly can be significant. The process of decay robs people of a lot. This could be a part of our future, yet few of us are prepared for this. Slow death is not a popular entertainment subject nor a part of reality TV. How and why do we choose to hide the elderly or, at best, relegate them to the margin where they need not be acknowledged?

Am I on the spectrum regarding my social tensions? We are at Zum Standesämtchen and I’m starting to seethe at the empty state of these vacuous lower-order excuses for humans on vacation. Dignified people do not stand with mouths agape, we should not get pissy with someone talking in their native tongue to us in their country. They have no obligation to speak your version of one of the 7,117 languages distributed around our earth. We owe it to ourselves to, at a minimum, master our mother tongue, speak clearly with concision, and, when appropriate, slow things down and temper the volume. You are in someone else’s culture, and respect starts with you.

Creampuff in Frankfurt, Germany

When in a public space, I do not care where you’re from or what you like or don’t like about your vacation, life, or job. If it’s hot and humid or raining, nobody needs your pronouncement of the obvious. This is not small talk; it is the inanity of someone who needs to be at the center of attention or is afraid of the quiet. And don’t admonish me to pay attention to my own business as you drag yourself on stage screeching and dressing in ways that say, “LOOK AT ME!” The same goes for those of you sporting face tats and musculature that verges into the spectacle. You need and obviously desire attention and cannot dictate when your clown-ass has others gawking.

Away from Römer at Cafe Einstein with the throngs on the otherside of the threshold, I’m able to enjoy the moment with Jutta, sharing our experiences and a few photos from our vacation within a vacation. We spent a couple of hours at lunch and then another couple here chatting over coffee and sweets, which is not known as fika here in Germany.

Frankfurt, Germany

The plaque here at Römer reads:

On this site, on 10 May 1933, national socialist students burned the books of authors, scientists, publicists, and philosophers.

The outer ring reads:

That was only a prelude. Wherever they burn books, in the end, will also burn human beings. 1820 Heinrich Heine

Frankfurt, Germany

The sign says Construction Site Entry and I believe you should heed this as an admonition pertaining to your life; you are under construction and need to recognize that the work upon yourself is a never-ending project.

Frankfurt, Germany

Over the course of the last weeks in Scandinavia, embedded among the more than 67,000 words I’ve penned were near-daily laments of the behaviors of those I could only wish were not on vacation at the same time we were. If I were as smart as I’d like to aspire to you, I should have encapsulated it all into this succinct poster we saw towards the end of the day, “You are not a tourist. You are an ambassador.” Come to think about it, doesn’t this apply to the very person we’d like others to perceive?

Polite Culture Shock – Danish Style

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

There we were, after little more than three full days in Germany, dragging our bags out of Heddernheim over to the Zeilweg tram stop to make our way to the airport. We’d powered through the jetlag and did everything we intended to during our first 72 hours in Frankfurt, though, on the other hand, there’s never enough time for family. Talking with Rouven at Jutta’s assisted living facility yesterday, we discussed the problem of elderly people and those with dementia who’ve not accepted or become aware of their situation. Well, about to leave for Denmark, I considered our hefty itinerary and had to wonder if this was 30-year-old John making plans for 60-year-old John and his 55-year-old wife. At what point will my ambition outgrow the circumstances of our stamina? Maybe the best answer is to remain in motion and always be aware of what we’re typically able to do on a day-to-day and week-to-week basis and use that as a measure of what we might be able to carry into our vacations.

Main River flowing into Rhein River near Mainz, Germany

Seated onboard on our flight out of Germany without my book, all I have are my thumbs to twiddle. Of course, I could write, and that’s what I’m doing while not playing Guess Where We Are, which, of course, is where the Main flows into the Rhein River at Mainz, but the idea of doing so for the 80 minutes we’ll be in the air feels impossible since my ability to identify geography from 35,000 feet over earth is fairly limited. Maybe I should close my notebook and focus on what shenanigans I can break out to bother my seatmate, who also happens to be my wife because there is nothing like deploying some pesky little annoyances I’ve gained such mastery over to entertain at least one of us.

The captain of our SAS flight starts addressing us passengers with, “Herdy dur schmer floompty flerpty der a florgen bork glurgan.” Oh my god, Swedish Chef from the Muppet Show is at the helm! Minutes later, food service began so I can only guess that his announcement was saying something about lunch. Hmmm, our lunch is not like the others. I’d forgotten that we bought business class on this flight, which could easily be overlooked because the seats were not separated from the rest of the flight, but we were in the first group to board, so there’s that, and now there’s this lunch. Yum, an open-faced pastrami sandwich with a salad of roasted carrot, quinoa, pickled canola seeds, and lovage, a side of rutabaga pickled in apple cider vinegar, and a cream of Sörmlands Ädel cheese from Jürss Mejeri.

Caroline Wise in Copenhagen, Denmark

We land just before 11:30 and are quick to negotiate the ticket automat for the metro from the airport to Kongens Nytorv, where we’ll transfer to another train that will take us to our hotel in Nordhavn. With our bags stored until we check in this evening, we are right back at the Orientkaj metro stop looking for Donkey Republik rental bikes. In a couple of minutes, things are figured out, and we are on our way, in a bit of a hurry, actually.

Caroline Wise at Woolstock Yarn Store in Copenhagen, Denmark

Wow, proper bike lanes segregated from cars with their own lights make for a totally different riding experience that feels incredibly safe. And what could be so important here on our first-ever visit to Copenhagen that we raced there? Our first Danish yarn store experience should be the only plausible answer. I should point out that this won’t be the only yarn store we’ll visit today and that is the real cause of the need for expediency. Prior to leaving the States, I could see that the way between the two shops was best traversed by foot or bike, but with the second shop located closer to the historic center of Copenhagen and closing at 3:00 pm, we’d have to reach Woolstock first and then head into town. Public transport wouldn’t work, so I searched for a bike service and came up with a plan that would have us cycle west from the hotel, south from the first shop, and then, from the next shop, we’d be well positioned for lunch, which could also be considered second lunch seeing we ate on the plane.

Caroline Wise at Woolstock Yarn Store in Copenhagen, Denmark

The truth needs to emerge: our flight and landing time in Copenhagen was strategically calculated to thwart Caroline’s ability to linger too long in each yarn store because if there wasn’t some kind of limiting factor going on, she’d spend the entire day petting the skeins and rubbing them on her cheek in a softness check verging on the sensual side of near-naughtiness. This shop has the “Keep them here all day” formula seriously figured out, with their tables and chairs strategically placed in the windows to subconsciously appeal to these cat lovers and the idea of relaxing in the warming sun. Second, they have a cafe with a fully loaded pastry case and a coffee and tea menu. Third, computers are not welcome, but lingering to knit and enjoy the company of your fellow fiber junkies while indulging in sweets and yarn is seriously encouraged, catered to even. Okay, I was joking about the timing to limit Caroline’s moments of indulgence. These vacations are all about mutual basking in privilege. Finally, the green yarn was my choice, but it turns out that its weight might not work so well for socks, so how about a beanie or scarf, Caroline?

One of the lakes in Copenhagen, Denmark

Riding next to one of the lakes on our way to the next stop, it feels as though Richard Wagner was here with us, conducting the Walkürenritt as Caroline leads the way to Valhalla. As she goes forth, she’s reciting the 10th-century poem titled Eiríksmál, taken from the Prose Edda compiled by 13th-century historian Snorri Sturluson, which was originally written in honor of Erik Bloodaxe:

What sort of yarn is that, Odin?
I dreamed I knitted before dawn
to clear up Val-hall for fiber artists.
I aroused the Einheriar,
bade them get up to wind the skeins,
clean the needles,
the valkyries to serve tea
for the arrival of a knittress.

Caroline Wise at Uldstedet Yarn Store in Copenhagen, Denmark

If this were a pirate-inspired story, Caroline would have pillaged her way to collecting the finest fiber booty, but this being a Viking-influenced narrative means that after riding to the lake, she ditched her bike, sailed across the lake to arrive at Old Town Yarn (Uldstedet) in order to raid it and plunder it of all of its best yarns. With only a small Karve (Viking longship) docked at the shore, she’s acting as a responsible seafarer, and, not overloading her craft, only four skeins were seized.

Husmanns Vinstue in Copenhagen, Denmark

Searching for authentic flavors of Denmark, I came across what is possibly the most famous dish of this country, Smørrebrød, and the restaurant that serves up some of the best in Copenhagen is known as Husmanns Vinstue. They’ve been serving up these open-faced sandwiches called Smørrebrød since 1888, and the basement dining area looks like it hasn’t changed in a century. Oddly, there’s only one other woman here.

Husmanns Vinstue in Copenhagen, Denmark

We are in awe sitting in this place with our only wish possibly being that we were here with others to celebrate the authenticity that is washing over us. Before the dishes arrived, Caroline ordered a Nørrebro Bryghus Ravnsborg Red Beer and a shot of Aalborg Taffel Akvavit (Aquavit) to accompany her three types of herring while I stuck with sparkling water (alcohol-free) paired with my first steak tartare of the trip and not the last. With two egg yolks, onion, caper, curry pickle, and freshly shaved horseradish on a slice of rye bread, I was ecstatic with my perfect choice. Seeing other customers enjoying a fried Camembert Smørrebrød with lingonberry jam as a savory treat after their main meal inspired us to share one.

What an amazing environment! We are definitely at home here and of the right age. Alcohol is flowing fast in this relic from yesteryear, which only adds to the charm and volume of the patrons. There’s no way to capture what this place offers the senses. Smørrebrød will forever be defined by this afternoon as this single experience in a local joint without one other foreigner will have cemented the idea that we’ve had a real Danish moment outside the more typical tourist stops. While we’ve hung out for more than an hour by now, we are not ready to leave, but there’s so much more to see, so off we go.

Protesters in Copenhagen, Denmark

From pickled fish and raw meat indulgences, we fell into the street to catch a demonstration of peaceful vegans protesting meat and fur that was heading to Burger King. With bellies full of sin and having left our rental bikes behind, we walked along for a few minutes, though we abstained from joining the chant lest we appear to be hypocrites.

Copenhagen, Denmark

With all the important stuff out of the way, we could now focus on our touristic obligations with jaws agape, gazing upon history and the elegance to be found in capital cities. The building in the background is part of the University of Copenhagen, while we are about to visit the National Cathedral of Copenhagen on the left.

Vor Frue Kirke in Copenhagen, Denmark

This is the Vor Frue Kirke (Church of our Lady), a.k.a. the National Cathedral. While the site has hosted a few church buildings since about 1187, the longevity of each iteration was marred by fire, war, and the move to Lutheranism.

The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

The Round Tower observatory was built in 1642 and is part of the Trinitatis Complex, a project initiated by King Christian IV of Denmark (1577 – 1648), who was also the longest-serving monarch of Danish royal history.

Trinitatis Church as seen from inside The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

This is the Trinitatis Church, which is connected to the Round Tower. Fortunately, I took this photo through a pane of glass from within the tower because by the time we made it back down, it was after 4:30, and the church was closed.

The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

Back in 1716, Tsar Peter the Great of Russia rode his horse up the tower, and while the article mentioning this specifically says “ascended” there’s no mention if he rode it down. Here we were 307 years later no longer having the option to ride a horse up the 7.5 spirals that lead to the top of the tower. Caroline had to drag me instead.

View from The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

While Tycho Brahe (1546 – 1601) hailed from Copenhagen (his name will come up a few times while we are here), this tower was never visited by the famous astronomer who died before the invention of the first telescope and the construction of the Rundetårn (Danish for Round Tower).

View from The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

Seen left of center in the distant background is the Øresund Bridge connecting Denmark to Sweden, which at a length of 8km is the longest bridge in Europe, but that’s not the reason Caroline knows of it. She has been watching a Swedish/Danish crime show called The Bridge.

The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

While the Round Tower is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe, light pollution has effectively rendered that title meaningless. Though for its historic relevance, it’s still an amazing piece of architecture to visit.

Caroline Wise at The Round Tower in Copenhagen, Denmark

From Wikipedia: The winding corridor has a length of 210 m, climbing 3.74 m per turn. Along the outer wall, the corridor has a length of 257.5 m and a grade of 10%, while along the wall of the inner core, the corridor is only 85.5 m long but has a grade of 33%.

Considering this is the only building of its kind and knowing that most everything visited by tourists would be closed by the time we left the tower, we were in no hurry to depart. Then there was the spectacular weather we’d not expected, so why not linger for a while and enjoy the view?

Copenhagen, Denmark

This statue depicts Bishop Absalon, who is said to have founded Copenhagen back in 1167. I’d like to share here that when noting things such as this is a statue of Absalon, as he’s also simply known, I end up reading quite a bit about the history of people, persons, and places that I identify. I often look for interesting facts to offer here, but history tends to be so complex that writing anything more than a date or tidbit of trivia would do a disservice to the story that should be included in greater depth should I say anything more than what’s written, so I simply have to skip it.

This being a blog, I’ve already exceeded the acceptable idea of how long a post should be in consideration of the attention spans of potential readers, but the reality is that this content is written for Caroline and myself. On the way into these histories, I connect dots such as the fact that Snorri Sturluson was alive at the same time as Absalon. While I’m not sure what good this will do me as I write this, it does fill in a part of the history of different geographic regions that allows me to better understand an age that might otherwise be a void.

Copenhagen, Denmark

While I love city centers I have some ambivalence about focusing on them, especially when they’ve become major tourist attractions. It’s hard to take the pulse of a place if we don’t have some understanding of everyday life for the people who call that place home. Our first day in Copenhagen started in the Nordhavn neighborhood, and the first leg of our bike ride took us over to Ydre Østerbro before riding into the city core. Enjoying the luxury of not having to rush to open sights, we walked not exactly aimlessly, but still, it was a bit of a meander.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Gathering a sense of the layout of a city has always been one of the great aspects of my introduction to a new locale. One downside of this introduction comes with the need to typically be expedient about our exploration instead of having a week or two to linger in observation. Obviously, I could never truly be satisfied with a couple of weeks either because then my curiosity turns to differences experienced at various times of the year. With the majority of tourists gone when January rolls around, who are the people who’ll be found on the waterways in a kayak at daybreak on a Sunday morning, enjoying the quiet solitude of paddling through their city? As winter gives way to spring and the jackets are put away, what’s the vibe in the cafes knowing that longer days are ahead?

Copenhagen, Denmark

As we stroll along, I’m on the lookout for Lars von Trier, as one never knows whom one might run into. While not encountering any celebrities, we were granted a glimmer of a rainbow out on the horizon, but my photo of it wasn’t as glamorous as I would have hoped for, so no rainbows in this post. Out on the waterways, it appeared that nobody cared about stars or rainbows. The nice weather here at the end of summer invited those who could join the flotilla of partiers to bring out their boats and friends for a drink and a bite to eat while casually motoring through the city. What a nice contrast to our life in the desert.

Church of Our Saviour in Copenhagen, Denmark

The spiral tower here belongs to the Church of Our Saviour, and while it’s open late, it is sold out for the day, which will prevent us from visiting it this trip. That’s right, we have our sights set on a return. Not that I didn’t already know this when we arrived in Copenhagen earlier today, but then again, it should be evident that we’re always up for return visits to cities of historic importance.

Copenhagen, Denmark

We just kept on walking until we started lagging, but that was rectified by a coffee and a shared pastry, or would that be more accurately described as a Danish? [Note: Danish people call “Danish pastries” wienerbrød, or “Viennese bread” – Caroline] Revitalized, it was time to return to the polite streets of Copenhagen. I have to say “polite” because, unlike in Germany or the U.S., pedestrians have rights of way I’ve not seen elsewhere. When pedestrians approach an intersection with a crosswalk, we are not expected to slow down or stop. We just keep on walking as the drivers are aware that we are about to step in front of them. This is a difficult habit to pick up quickly enough for the drivers who are not going to pass through the intersection until after we’ve crossed the street.

Nyhavn in Copenhagen, Denmark

Possibly the most photographed spot in all of Denmark aside from the Little Mermaid: this is Nyhavn.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Amalienborg Palace is a massive complex that will remain unvisited by us aside from this walk through the courtyard because time will not allow a proper tour of the interior. This might also be due to some small amount of cynicism that we’ve seen plenty of ornate rooms where royalty has lavished opulence upon themselves in much the same way as other rulers have over the centuries. Intimate spaces lived in by artists and creators where we can gain a glimpse into their creative environments are far more interesting.

Copenhagen, Denmark

That’s King Christian V (1646 – 1699) mounted on his horse on the pedestal at center court.

Frederik's Church in Copenhagen, Denmark

Back in 1749, King Frederick V (1723 – 1766) laid the foundation stone of Frederik’s Church, but after the death of the original architect six years later, the project fell into disrepair, and for over 100 years the building, what there was of it, lay in ruin. Construction commenced in the 1870s, and by 1894, the church was finally opened to the public for the first time. We were minutes too late to gain access to its interior, but will make an early morning attempt to visit the largest church dome in Scandinavia.

Alexander Nevsky Church in Copenhagen, Denmark

Had we been able to visit the Alexander Nevsky Church, it would likely have been the first Russian Orthodox church I’d ever stepped into. In keeping with our adage of leaving something undone that will bring us back, we added this to the list for Copenhagen, too.

Ivar Huitfeldt Column in Copenhagen, Denmark

I’m beginning to think that most of the history worth remembering for Danes surrounds Christian V somehow. Here’s a statue in honor of Ivar Huitfeldt, a naval officer who was killed in action in 1710. His connection to King Christian V is that Ivar sent an application to the king when he was 16 years old, asking permission to join the Navy.

The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, Denmark

Yes, I know, it feels like a visit to the Little Mermaid is obligatory and gratuitous, but it’s on the way to something else.

The Genetically Modified Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, Denmark

That something else is the Genetically Modified Little Mermaid farther up the harbor.

Nyboder Historic Row Houses in Copenhagen, Denmark

It was after 9:00 p.m. when we started considering our dinner choices, and while anything would have done at this point, kitchens around us were already closed. A pizza shop was packed with a long wait, but as we strolled along Store Kongensgade, we saw that Restaurant Vita was still serving. With beggars not able to be choosers, we took it. And anyway, taking the walk in Nyboder’s historic row house district at dusk had been more important. Begun in 1631 as Navy barracks, they are still standing and are now inhabited by civilians. It was almost 11:00 p.m. when we finally checked into our hotel and collected the bags they’d been holding for us.

[As it turned out, Restaurant Vita was a good choice. Unlike the table of loud and obnoxious Brits nearby, we enjoyed our food very much. After a starter of tartare, we tried the “other” national dish of Denmark: fried pork. I ordered stegt flæsk (slices of crispy fried pork belly), while John opted for flæskesteg (pork roast with a crispy fried crust). Both dishes were generous portions of delicious comfort food. Our server thought that stegt flæsk might be a bit too salty for novices, but we didn’t mind at all. It was reminiscent of chicharron, except it was served with boiled potatoes and parsley sauce. Since stegt flæsk comes in slices, it is often served “ad libitum,” which translates to “all you can eat.” We really lucked out stumbling over this restaurant serving very traditional Danish food. – Caroline]

As the title of this post suggests, there is a kind of culture shock that we are experiencing here in Copenhagen due to the politeness factor. From the front desk attendant at our hotel who earlier in the day was explaining the necessity for trust in Danish culture to someone else along the way who told us that if something weren’t safe, it would imply a greater societal problem, so obviously trust, a sense of decorum, and the sharing of those expectations with each other is part of the common dialogue here in Denmark. Compare this to where I was a week before in Arizona, where a gun on the hip tells others exactly how much trust is had for their fellow citizens.