Another Southwest Experience

Breakfast at Baja Cafe in Tucson, Arizona

Breakfast entered the charts under the category of “wow” and, for the umpteenth time, triggered the big question: why are we living in Phoenix again? Baja Cafe in Tucson appeared on a number of Best Breakfast” lists. We thought Five Points Market & Restaurant was brilliant, and it was, but Baja Cafe ups the ante with some uniquely inspired creations, such as their variations on eggs benedict. From their menu, I’ll just share their exact description of the dish pictured:

Brisket Caramelo – Grilled crisp Caramelos stuffed with shredded brisket, tomatoes, chorizo, cheddar, and Jack cheese. Topped with two strips of corn husk smoked bacon, fire-roasted diced green chile, and two poached eggs. Finished with a combination of New Mexican red chile sauce and a smoked gouda cheese sauce, pico de gallo, cotija cheese, and pickled onions.

Last night at El Charro, upon hearing us talk about breakfast options in Tucson, our server recommended Baja Cafe and told us that one of his favorites there was the corned beef hash, so Caroline ordered it. We shared both plates and agreed that the corned beef hash was the best we’d ever had, while this play on eggs benedict will hopefully bring us back to try some of the other variations of this otherwise staid dish. After breakfast, it was time to hit the road.

South of Tucson heading to Sonoita, Arizona

Leaving Interstate 10 in Vail in the direction of Sonoita on Highway 83, there were a couple of glimpses of sun, but for the most part, the sky just grew cloudier.

Heading to Sierra Vista, Arizona

Even before leaving Tucson, we were drawn into the snow-covered mountains surrounding the city, with the exception of the west. The mountains in the other three directions had a healthy dusting of snow, which, for us central Arizona desert dwellers, is a sight for dry eyes. I had figured that the snow was going to be unique to Tucson, but I was wrong as seen right here just outside of Sonoita looking at Mount Wrightson.

Sierra Vista, Arizona

Our old friend Mal de Puerco joined us in the car, and under the gray skies with our seat heaters on, we needed a stop in Sierra Vista for coffee lest we find the car driving itself over the tan grasses more suited for grazing cows than napping pigs. The forecast calls for sun in the afternoon, and so before that, we’ll just mosey along with nary a concern about what to do next, except Caroline is nudging me that our 10-minute coffee stop has now stretched into nearly 30 minutes, so off we go on our trip further south. The mountain on the left is Miller Peak in Hereford, flanked by Carr Peak on the right.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

It was almost a coin toss regarding visiting Bisbee or Coronado National Memorial, but Coronado won since we couldn’t remember being there in the past 20 years. It turns out that it’s been almost exactly 20 years since our last visit because my blog showed us that it was back in May 2003 that we were last down here. Two things: back on the left, you can see a hint of blue sky, but the elephant in the room is, why is this sign reading “Smuggle + Flee = Jail” right before the entry to the park?

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Ten years ago, in a land far, far away stood the imposing figure of Caroline the Warrior donning simulated battle gear at the Frankfurt Historical Museum, but today, we are in the land of Get Real, and you put on an authentic recreation or just get lost. Chain mail armor is heavy-duty stuff with an emphasis on heavy. After getting Caroline into that metal shirt, which felt like it weighed 30 pounds, followed by the mail coif over her head, she opted for the helmet of the Kniggits instead of the more fashionable mohawk style she wore in Germany. Click that link in the top line and scroll down to see what I’m talking about. It turned out that her glasses helped the helmet stay put because after she took them off, the weight of the steel helmet fell onto her nose.

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

But with that, she was now angry enough at what I was putting her through that she was able to channel a fierce rendition of one of the soldiers traveling with Francisco Vazquez de Coronado back in 1540. Anyone else in the visitors center might have thought us drunken fools from our boisterous laughter. We were locked in side-splitting fits of laughing, the kind that starts to take your breath away and pulls tears from your eyes.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We expected the gray weather to continue, but after indulging in that roaring laugh attack, the weather gods must have recognized that we were ready for joy because when we went back outside, the sun had come out and stayed with us. The view is of Montezuma Peak behind the visitor’s center.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Armed with a Junior Ranger booklet, we took off to see how far we could get on Joe’s Canyon Trail, how far because when I enquired about steep dropoffs on the trail, I was told there might be a couple of spots.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Somehow, I managed to get past this constriction, probably because I’d not had enough of the trail yet, and after more than a couple of months without any hiking, I desperately wanted some serious nature time, and with the weather cooperating, we needed to persevere.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

The views up here were spectacular, but after our time on this trail, we would drive up higher towards Coronado Peak and capture even better views of mostly the same sights, so I’m saving what’s out on the horizon until we get there.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We made it to about 600 feet of the 1000 feet of elevation gain Joe’s Canyon Trail should have delivered when I reached the limit of my ability to handle the narrowing trail, and at about 1.5 miles, we turned around for the hike back to the visitors center.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

After our hike, we drove up to Montezuma’s Pass for what we would have both sworn was our first visit to this particular vantage point, but my blog would prove us wrong.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

I hadn’t planned on taking our new car on dirt roads quite yet, but there we were at the base of the mountain, facing the choice of babying our pristine Kia Niro with only about 500 miles on it or seizing the day and conquering the mountain on a narrow rocky dirt path to Montezuma Pass and the Coronado Overlook just past that.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We were on a race against time as the visitors center down below was going to close at 4:00 and Caroline had to turn in her junior ranger booklet before that.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Good thing there was still time to take a selfie up here. The majority of the view behind us is looking into Mexico; I think it’s making me look old.

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Caroline made it, meaning not only were we on time, but she possibly answered everything correctly. I say possibly because not a concern was paid about what she scrawled in the booklet which is unfortunate as she really makes an effort to do justice to the questions which, while aimed at children, require a serious bit of work. Her enthusiasm shows how seriously she is taking the honor of being sworn in as a junior ranger, even if it’s her 100th badge.

Miracle Valley, Arizona

This is the Miracle Valley Bible Church and the site of a shootout between church members and law enforcement that occurred over ten years before the much more famous incident in Waco, Texas, involving the followers of David Koresh. Seeing this again today had me wondering what happened to the photos I took of this place a few years prior, and it turns out that I glossed right over them then because I was still deep in working on the blog posts that were detailing the last trip to Europe we had only returned from in the days prior to visiting Bisbee. Back then, in 2019, I had been invited onto the property by a gentleman who walked along with me, explained a few things about the site, and then allowed me to wander around and take photos. It’s about time for me to share those and get working on that post as soon as I’m done with documenting this weekend.

Miracle Valley, Arizona

This is what remains of the Palominas Trading Post in Hereford that at one time hosted a gas station back when gasoline was only $1.42 a gallon, and, according to the bleached sign on the west side of the building, this was also a diner. Google StreetView shows the place still open in 2008, but sometime shortly after that, the sign fell down, the newspaper and ice machine disappeared and it has since remained empty. Coldwell Banker has been trying to unload the 2.3 acres and 2,700 sqft of decrepit buildings out in the middle of nowhere for $219,000. How this is valued at more than $1000 is beyond my imagination.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

We had one more stop to make today before checking into the Gadsden Hotel down in Douglas and thought we should consider making a reservation for dinner just so they knew were desiring a table. We are at Whitewater Draw in McNeal, Arizona, where last year we saw tens of thousands of Sandhill Cranes; today, we see hundreds, but that’s good enough.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

The barn that had been standing near the parking lot on the left last year has since blown down. It was also where the WIFI router for the Crane Cam was housed, so we had no way of looking at the scene prior to our arrival and finding out if the cranes were even on hand. Sadly, the front desk at the Gadsden also didn’t know the status of the birds.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

There were lots of ducks plying the shallow waters but getting a photo of one of them was difficult, near impossible, as they had their heads submerged under the surface the majority of the time.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

The shadows should let you know that it’s now late in the day, while the inability to see a millimeter into the water suggests it might be turning into a mud puddle in the next week.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

Good thing we got a reservation for 7:00 p.m. as we had time to hang out and were rewarded with seeing murmurations of the yellow-headed blackbirds. While we came for the sandhill cranes, it was those little yellow-headed birds that stole the show today.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

There’s a speck on the left that is one of the few remaining cranes flying away from the lake today, but that’s not what we were focused on; it was the sky and the reflections on the surface of the water.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

With sunset happening at about 6:20 p.m., I thought we’d have enough time to reach Douglas since it was only about 30 minutes away, but as we made our way towards the parking area, we saw and heard that a very large party of those Yellow-headed Blackbirds were making a commotion to the south of where we’d been. There were thousands of them jostling for branch space on a section of the lake in the late-day shadows.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

Only a tripod and an F/1.2 aperture lens would have possibly delivered a decent photo of those quick-moving little birds that were darting here and there before the thrush of hundreds of them would lift off simultaneously and readjust the position in ways we cannot begin to understand. Time to go south to our accommodation on the Mexican border.

Once we got to dinner, we were surprised to find that Cesar, who served us breakfast last year nearly to the day, was to be our server for dinner. When I saw him walk up, I remembered him immediately; it took him a solid 15 seconds to rebuild the memory. Cesar lives in Mexico and is still studying to be a nurse, just as he was last year. He’s since purchased a mirrorless camera and is getting deeper into photography.

Our room is a suite, and it’s spectacular. While my eyes are growing heavy as I try to get the more important impressions and details written down, Caroline has been luxuriating in the whirlpool in our room, and though I wish I could have been more prolific with the words, my eyes are falling shut as I push the computer to the side.

Petroglyphs to Phoenix

Left Santa Fe early but late enough to allow us another opportunity to have breakfast over at the Pantry Restaurant. With that out of the way, we pointed the car toward Albuquerque. We had a mission that had us dropping in on the Petroglyph National Monument for the experience that precedes qualifying for yet another junior ranger badge.

With ample signage warning visitors not to leave ANYTHING visible in their cars at the Rinconada trailhead parking lot, we used this admonishment to go someplace else. We opted for a trail that had us backtracking a bit north to Piedras Marcadas Canyon. I didn’t have a good feeling about our hike starting off under these circumstances as I couldn’t help but think that maybe Albuquerque had started modeling itself after the TV series Breaking Bad. Not that I know a lot about that show, but I do know that gangsterism, meth, mayhem, and more meth were the central themes, using Albuquerque as its location.

Obviously, we’re walking the Piedras Marcadas Canyon trail by now, collecting petroglyphs in the camera.

Within the Petroglyph National Monument, there are an estimated 25,000 etchings that have been carved into the patina of the rocks stretching over the 12 square miles the National Park Service protects.

The oldest petroglyphs are estimated to be over 4,000 years old, but I’m guessing this one of a boy riding a snail is not one of those, though the early rendition of the Flying Spaghetti Monster to the left could predate Jesus.

This beautiful petroglyph I’m interpreting as, “Oh my god, it’s summer and there isn’t a tree anywhere to find shade under.”

From our perspective on a fenced trail, there are multiple dozens of petroglyphs etched into the rocks right in front of us. This has me wondering how many are out of view because what are the chances that consideration was made by early inhabitants to ensure their messaging would be visible to those that passed below?

The trail through here, while it’s been here a long time, wasn’t always so well defined, as evidenced by the worn side paths that are still growing over. I’m guessing that some decades ago, people were basically allowed to scramble over the boulders to see what they could see.

Seventy years ago, visitors didn’t understand the value of these sites and didn’t think anything about walking on fragile areas of Yellowstone, breaking off a chunk of stalagmite at Carlsbad Caverns, or crawling on the walls of an old pueblo. Today, it feels as though there is a wanton desire to destroy for the sake of destruction and leaving your own personal mark on something that cannot be repaired. Just as we learned that areas of Bandelier that were once visitable and likely listed in our old park brochure are no longer on maps in order to dissuade others from finding and harming these historic sites, it makes me wonder how long we’ll have access to seeing these petroglyphs with our own eyes.

Our short 2-mile hike took us about 90 minutes of walking through sand that only grew progressively warmer as we went along. Good thing Caroline had a gallon of water on her back. Time to return to the visitor center for you know what.

Yep, swearing in as a fully-fledged Junior Ranger at Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s still too early in the morning to go find Sadie’s for some of their regional eats, so we’ll get on the road as there are still 420 miles ahead of us on our way home.

This long, straight road ahead takes us to Arizona (unless we detour).

Of course, we had to detour; we are John and Caroline, and lingering is part of who we are. Taking Interstate 40 to Interstate 17 for the fastest straightest shot home sounded so incredibly boring that anyone should know that we’d never take that route. So, in Grants, we left the freeway to travel back down through El Malpais National Monument just as we did back on May 15, two months earlier.

Sixty days ago, in order to save time for the other things we wanted to do out here, we skipped the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, but not today.

Caroline went one direction, the way of the daredevil unafraid of heights, while I took the more terrestrial path.

While she was up there somewhere on the right, I made this my viewpoint.

Until we converged again to take off for another view from the bluffs.

Maybe this looks somewhat familiar from our trip last month.

It should have, as we are right back out here at La Ventana Arch, but the lighting feels better.

Right up atop this cliffside is the Narrows Trail we’d love to revisit already, but time won’t allow it today.

Well, let’s be serious, time would allow it if I’d not set my mind on eating at Guayo’s El Rey in Miami, Arizona, meaning we would have to reach that small town before it grows too late. As it turned out, we had to go to Guayo’s on the Trail in Globe as the unreliable Google, while knowing the existence of these businesses, didn’t know that the Miami location was closed for vacation until the 22nd. Good thing I called ahead due to my growing mistrust of anything shared by Google.

For the rest of our drive home, we’d hit rain here and there, often quite heavy. While the cloud cover makes for somewhat dull landscapes regarding color and brightness, it sure does have the potential to lend drama to a sky.

What’s worse than driving mountain and canyon roads during heavy rain here in Arizona? Driving on any roads in the rain anywhere in this state.

Dinner at Guayo’s on the Trail was not at all what I was looking for and now has me wondering if the two Guayos are even related. One thing is certain: I’ll never visit the Globe location again. As you can tell from the sky over Picketpost Mountain in Superior, the rains have stayed behind while we return to the hot, dry desert of Phoenix.

Santa Fe to Bandelier National Monument

We are back at the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) here on Saturday morning in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Thanks are in order for Dion Terry for his breakfast recommendation of the Pantry Restaurant over on Cerrillos Road. Prepared with the experience that comes with having been operating since 1948 and mastery of green chili, our first meal of the day hit the mark.

Gasali Adeyemo operates this booth with beautiful Adire cloth from Nigeria. Nothing caught Caroline’s eye, but then she had taken a couple of workshops with Gasali a few years ago and already owns a few pieces.

The center stack of bracelets is missing one now that Caroline bought it from the ladies at Wounaan Craft Group out of Colombia.

Out of Morocco, the women representing Cherry Buttons Cooperative sold Caroline this necklace.

Fariza Sheisheyeva and Svetlana Sheisheyeva of Art Group Saima from Kyrgyzstan sold us this exact piece of felted artwork this morning, our priciest acquisition at IFAM. If budget were of no concern, the work behind Caroline to the right would have been going home with us, but we have our limits.

And finally, Marie Alexandrine Rasoanantenaina of Tahiana Creations from Madagascar and her lovely daughter, who graced the cover of the IFAM 2022 program guide, sold us our first bits of vetiver root. If you’ve never smelled this stuff, it’s impossible to describe, but then again, so is the scent of strawberries.

Lessons learned from our first visit: 1. pace ourselves better so we don’t visit all the booths in an hour. 2. plan on catching some of the entertainment. 3. we must visit the museums. 4. buy tickets for all the days as there we last-minute things Caroline wanted to return one more time but found that Sunday morning entries were sold out. [Add one more: Read the artist stories and jot down if any stand out prior to our visit. I had avoided reading the artist’s write-ups ahead of time so I would not influence myself, but when I went through them later, I realized that I missed a couple. – Caroline]

After leaving Museum Hill, we were ready for our next adventure. Competing for our attention this weekend were visits to two national monuments because as important as fiber arts-related things are to Caroline, she also has yearnings for every junior ranger badge she can earn. Here we are on the Frey Trail at Bandelier National Monument after failing to heed the signs that advised us to take the shuttle from outside the park over to the visitors center. Considering the time of day, we feared we might miss the last shuttle out and decided to head directly to the park and try our luck. At the entry gate, the ranger allowed us to continue on to the Juniper Campground parking lot and wait for the next shuttle. At the shuttle stop, we spied the sign for the Frey Trailhead, which said the visitors center was 1.5 miles away; since the shuttle was about 30 minutes away according to the schedule, we figured we could get there around the same time from the look of the trail ahead.

Oh, it’s not just a relatively flat walk to the visitor’s center?

The view from the Tyuonyi Overlook as we start our steep descent to the valley below.

What an incredible way to enter the heart of the park! Such a lucky turn of fortuitous events that had us coming in this way.

Why is nothing looking familiar? Could it be that the last time we were here was back in 2003, and we were 19 years younger than we are now, with countless adventures between then and now to cloud our memories?

I can’t say I understand the dynamic at work when this motif was painted here at that point in history long ago. Why is this inset from the wall around it? If you look to the upper left of this image, there are remnants of plaster on the wall, and in the photo above this, you can still see plaster on the back walls. So, it’s not strange that walls are adorned with some type of decoration, but this one is inset; I’m confused.

Here we are out in Bandelier National Monument, only able to gaze upon a deep geographic history and a mostly unknowable cultural history that arrived in our age without a clear narrative. Science can tell us about the natural forces at work and the composition of minerals that laid the foundation of the environment, and clues from the ancestral Puebloans help create the fragmented story of those who once lived here, but I want more. What was it like to walk here before it was named Frijoles Canyon, back when the indigenous people building homes here nearly 1,000 years ago were busy living lives?

We use ladders to climb on high, or we don’t, and then return to cars that bring us to food and hotels. We who roam far and wide using machines and electronics are as far removed from these ancestors as purse dogs are from wolves. I want to look into their world, their view of nature, their diet, and how they laughed and loved. Instead, I allow myself mere minutes to glance over the things that are able to be seen, and in some instances, such as the ladder system ahead of me, I can only go so far before my fear of heights will stymie me.

Caroline, on the other hand is better at conquering her fear and ascends the ladders to the platform above. It turns out that 19 years ago, I, too, was able to make my way up there, which allowed me to capture a photo from within a rebuilt kiva that was still visitable back then. Regarding the tilt-shift effect of the image, I took this with my DSLR and have no idea what setting I accidentally hit as I snapped off three similar photos before I recognized the mode dial was not set correctly and switched back.

Hey, National Park Service, I would pay hundreds of dollars per day to sleep in one of those rooms up there, to sit in on a ceremony in a kiva, and to eat the foods that were eaten here a thousand years ago.

It was right here back in 2003 that Caroline sat in the same spot on a similar ladder as I took her photo. Little has changed other than we are aging but our curiosity and fascination are still running hard.

With the visitor center closing soon, Caroline had the briefest of times to plow through the Junior Ranger booklet and answer enough questions to now add this badge to her ever-expanding collection from all over the United States.

Twelve miles down the road but still, in a corner of Bandelier National Monument, we find this: the Tsankawi Ruins trail. We thought we’d skip this short 1.5-mile loop as we were already tired, but the idea of not seeing the seeable when we were right here in this corner of New Mexico seemed like we would have blown an opportunity.

And so we did, up the trail and up the ladder.

An amazing trail has been carved into the soft, porous rock of volcanic ash called tuff.

Maybe I should have tried the narrow passage on the left, but I opted for the “Alternative Route” to the right. Caroline took the steeper, narrow trail.

Up the ladder, I crawled to meet with Caroline again.

Atop the volcanic mesa, we strode, looking for the unexcavated ruins that cannot be seen on the horizon.

And the reason they were not seen is that they truly are ruins collapsed and covered by time.

Along the way, others have found hints from those who once lived here and, fortunately for all who visit, have left these treasures for others to witness.

Okay then, out here at the end of the mesa, some parts of the trail are starting to feel sketchy. Not that it isn’t well constructed, but it’s that old fear of heights thing again that’s making me nervous.

Too late to turn around and, anyway, I really do want to see what is ahead if for no other reason than to admire the genius of this path.

Who knows if others only occasionally stayed here, lived here, or offered it up to visitors arriving from other lands, but today, for nearly a whole minute, it was ours.

On the trail that brought us out here, we were wondering if we’d somehow missed the promised petroglyphs, but here they are.

A close-up from the right of the panel above.

Look closely at the right and left of the slot that’s barely a boot wide, and you can see the wear of hikers who straddle the trail; there are even deeper indentations one can step into in order to not wiggle through the narrow path.

Selfie time before things get hairier, and I don’t mean the length of my beard or ponytail.

This wasn’t the first section that I had to clamp down on my resolve to hike past a gut-clenching razor’s edge of terror. Our car is just out there in the distance; I was not thrilled about really entertaining ideas of a U-turn only to face the other pressure points all over again.

From the National Park Service website regarding the Tsankawi Ruins trail: ” It is not a hike recommended for people with a great fear of heights.” I can admit that it feels great to overcome my weaknesses.

Plus, there are rainbows at the end of the hike. So, I’m lying because we were already on our way back to Santa Fe when we pulled over to snap a photo before it quickly disappeared, but had I gone with my exaggeration, I think it would have made for a slightly better story.

Dinner was at the busy underground joint called El Fogata Grill. It was raining when we arrived, but of all the peculiar luck, we were able to park maybe three doors down from the entrance to this restaurant right in the old city center of Santa Fe, believe it or not. Our food was nothing to brag about; then again, that might have to do with what it was competing with our meal from earlier in the day.

Freedom and Independence on the 4th of July

Independence Day out in a space that allows an extraordinary amount of freedom and independence to be had; that’s where we are. Nothing consumed, not a lot desired, and very little purchased is how we travel into this day, which in some way mirrors our lives at home. We comfortably find ourselves in a vast landscape, trying to interpret a horizon without easy markers or signs to guide us into the unfamiliar, and that’s okay.

Is Independence Day still a celebration of our freedom from tyranny or simply the faint recollection of historic events that paved the way for some idealistic notions? Certain declarations and amendments have come to stand in for whatever the thoughts might have been surrounding a collective sense of being free Americans, but are two or three fragments the extent of what independence means? Why do so many find our constitutional declarations ensconced in law to be tenuous at best and in need of constant anxious lament as though at any moment they will be ripped from the clutch of patriots who apparently are the only truly aware Americans? I’m afraid that this nervous energy and a constant refrain that everything America stands for is on the brink of being torn away is a toxic salve bringing infection to a wound exploited by hyperbolic political shysters, modern-day media snake oil salesmen, and pundit quacks who are not expert in anything other than terror.

People stuck in paradigms of the past appear most susceptible to fear and deception that exploits their unenlightened minds. Maybe they are broken and undereducated due to an indoctrination that made them slaves to a jingoistic and overzealous dogma from which they are now unable to break free. How, then, are those people free or independent? They are not; they are like this broken-down, rusting jalopy that is not going anywhere. Put a TV in front of this car, and you are effectively seeing many of my fellow citizens: frozen by gravity, useless, a relic from a past that failed to maintain any kind of momentum that might have allowed them to glide into the present and hopefully the future too.

I should offer up some details regarding this day that actually pertains to our trip from Utah that will take us home to Phoenix, Arizona, today. We woke in Blanding, a small town with a population of just under 3,600 people, and headed south. The sandstone bluff in the second photo is at the edge of the town of Bluff that we visited at the end of May; the car at the Cow Canyon Trading Post is also in Bluff. This wall fragment was at one time either part of a dwelling or maybe a storage area. I spotted it from the road, and it begged us to pay a visit. From here, we traveled toward Montezuma Creek and Aneth on our way to a special crossroads in the middle of nowhere.

Nowhere is where I live my best life, where nothing I own is strewn before or around me. All I can do is look upon the nothingness that embodies everything and has an intrinsic value exceeding the things that might be considered mine. When this wash is running it feeds into the San Juan River, which is the green spot out in the distance of this photo. For countless years, the rains have come and gone and, on occasion, left enough moisture that the streambed carved itself into the landscape. On this particular day, its path is evidenced by the green S curve starting in the foreground. The hand of nature out here has been employing the engineering forces of natural processes to build the most elegant of places that I will ever witness while standing at this particular place on State Route 162 located in San Juan County, Utah. So, now I’ve been everywhere and seen everything where nothing existed until I embued it with all the appreciation and value of someone able to find things meaningful while exploring the freedom of independence to do such things.

We had to stop here in Montezuma Creek, Utah, to admire the artwork of the students at Whitehorse High School who, when not exploring their creativity, are locked in classrooms being indoctrinated into believing that what they are being forced to learn will deliver them from the wretched poverty in which many of their parents exist. The cruel dichotomy here is that these kids are learning just enough to have them either conform or fail and likely relinquish themselves to systems that will exploit their incarceration. Without hope of further real education, they will languish in meager subsistence jobs not far from where they are growing up and never know the freedom of independence that the United States claims is a key part of our cultural DNA. Native Americans, like many minorities that can’t afford participation, are tossed by the wayside of something less than nothing, a place without hope or the ability to interpret what riches they might have if they were seriously knowledgable about truths. These truths are simply the idea that freedom is a state of mind afforded by removing oneself from the struggle of just surviving abject poverty, and this is where real education comes to bear.

I need to make clear here that my focus is not lamenting the situation of the poor, minorities, or other disadvantaged groups; the system is stacked against them, and they do what they can with the little they have. My real complaint is about those who have the means to be free and independent but are simultaneously deeply entrenched in their intellectual stagnation and being the loudest about their fear of what they claim is being stolen from them, which is absolutely nothing.

We cannot contain the ocean, the sun, or the wind, and we are fairly adept at controlling the river, bringing light to darkness, and giving ourselves the ability to move quickly over the surface of the planet, but we are absolute masters of bringing totalitarian enslavement upon the minds of the masses who are terrified to lose their shelter, sustenance, and social standing in a broken community of lonely souls drunk on the desire for out-of-reach riches that never offered real happiness to anyone in the first place. Love is the water that is supposed to flow down the river of life and through our communities, but we’ve created a drought by selling false dreams to people who will likely never know better and must endure the suffering of unfulfilled lives while we who have it all always get more. For us, the river is a deluge that welcomes us to grow more, secret away these precious resources so they may always be there for us; all the while, we pity those who supposedly won’t help themselves as we are oblivious to how systems are stacked against the ill-educated.

Aneth, Utah, is indicative of the disappearance of hope and opportunity, a place where the freedom to survive on ancestral lands is bulldozed by the allure of a fake image of life delivered by TV, the internet, and video games. In the past 20 years, Aneth has seen its population shrink by 139 people, and while that may not sound significant, consider that this means the town went from 598 people down to 459 for a loss of 1 in 4 Anethians. This is obviously a tragic situation for the local Navajo population since a town that is disappearing from the map has to support an elementary school that pays its senior teachers $80,000 a year and is apparently only working to catapult their children to places elsewhere.

With the intrusion of sham dreams of wild success that can be easily had in America’s big cities, the traditions of a community are shattered as fresh transplants crash into the cold reality of life in the uncaring environment of the metropolis. The broken young souls either fall to the wayside or return to the old town, contributing to its decay and their own dissatisfaction. This is not independence or freedom; it is planned disenfranchisement, obsolescence, cultural obliteration, and oppression. Aneth represents just 1 of 110 Navajo communities that are likely in similar predicaments. Now consider that by land area, the Navajo Nation is as large as the Netherlands and Belgium combined, but the GDPs of these two countries add up to almost $1.5 trillion compared to just $12.8 billion of economic activity on the largest Indian reservation in the United States; this is not an accident.

Sure, this is a poor comparison when one thinks that in Belgium and the Netherlands, the combined population is 29 million people strong in contrast to the Navajo Nation’s anemic 173,000 people, but in a country like the United States that has intentionally worked to disadvantage Native Americans, one might think we as a country could do better to honor those who have paid so much by suffering near total annihilation. Stop a moment and think of this: in Texas, 3.3 million people receive state aid, and nearly 2.8 million in Florida do too. Are we really a country of people who love independence and freedom that helps foster healthy communities and citizens, or are we a bunch of gun-loving nutjob individualists afraid of a tyrannical boogeyman created by marginalized megalomaniacs who become wealthy on this dissatisfaction, thus monopolizing another part of people’s vulnerability?

So, let’s all just look out on the horizon and refuse to see what we don’t want to see anyway. We are, after all, free to do exactly just what we want to do, even at the expense of sustaining a thriving nation. At one time, we were a union, not only that, we were trying to form a perfect union in order to establish our nation of the United States. Today, we are millions of individuals oblivious to our real role as neighbors willing to defend each other, help one another, and stand together. But the blue skies of optimism have been clouded over not exclusively by those in power but by all of us, the “We the people” part of all of us, because we are no longer we. This is a country of us and them. So on this 4th of July, which should be a joyous moment recognizing the accomplishments of a great country, we should bow down in respect of a dream that is dissipating like so many thin clouds on a hot day.

But that is not the America Caroline and I choose to live in. Our America is one of dreams and ideals where we’ve carved out just enough and seized the opportunity to find our way into a dream, though I’m not sure it resembles the idea of the bigger American Dream. You see, we are selfish, greedy, and maybe a bit isolated. We are selfish because we no longer buy into needing things like large homes, expensive cars, a vast wardrobe, or the other trappings of conspicuous consumption. We are greedy as we save money, predominately cook at home, set our thermostat higher, and save from not participating with subscriptions to frivolous services. We are isolated due to being avid readers, not owning a television, not playing golf, or rooting for sports franchises of any sort.

We’ve chosen our own path that recognizes our limitations to earn more and more. We’ve seen that those with more of all and nearly everything are rarely living profound and joyful lives. We understand that a chance encounter with someone less fortunate will likely offer us a more meaningful experience than listening to someone feeding us details about some celebrity, indignation regarding a politician of any persuasion, or their latest acquisition they believe enhances their position in the hierarchy of accomplishments.

We stand mostly alone with our ideals carrying dreams from a bygone era that if you ventured out into your country and into yourself, you might find experiential riches that would define you as a real explorer, a real American, a person living a life well lived. We still adhere to these ideas towering overhead as aspirations that are meant to be embraced. Caroline just recently became an American citizen and did so with tears in her eyes as she knows firsthand what is possible, but sadly, it is only because we had to separate ourselves from the masses defined by a lot of nothing, masses who don’t know the real American Dream and are angry that they are living in dystopian nightmares of their own creation.

Just stop a second and look at this: we are living the adage extolled in the Declaration of Independence regarding Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness. We are free under our current system to find just those things; nobody is trying to take anything from us, but we must be willing to give to ourselves and adapt to a changing world. Our founding fathers never envisioned a day when people would travel at 60 mph over land in air-conditioned vehicles, take photos of exquisite detail, and call ahead to a restaurant in the middle of a desert to verify their hours, but that’s what we do, and all that’s required is to continue changing with the times.

These bags of flour will not make themselves into a cake, bagels, or the Navajo frybread it is likely destined to become. Someone else will have to transform it; the flour will be altered by the addition of other ingredients, be they savory or sweet; the point is that these constituent parts will see their chemistry changed but still won’t be done until they find their way into a transitional form of having been cooked. And though the flour and that which was added will become food, it will then need to be consumed to act as nourishment. Maybe a grandmother made a cake, a dad made his kids pancakes on a Sunday morning, or a husband and wife are making frybread next to the road and loading it with roast mutton for passersby, such as my wife and me. This act of change and preparation is what will sustain those who benefit from the efforts of a community. This parable is what a nation, a people, a country of united souls does for one another, but we’ve lost sight of the basic ingredients right in front of us. Instead, we are pissed off when we must deal with the investment of effort to transform things on our own because the 20-layer cake isn’t being spoon-fed to us when we want it.

Do not be a petulant bulwark against your own motion forward, happiness, or accomplishment. Nothing is really standing in your way besides yourself. Your intransigence to see your way around minor obstacles blinds you and steals your vision to find what is just beyond the rock called self. Caroline and I are not perfect examples of growing beyond limitations, but in these moments of exploring our own freedom and independence, we get to take sight of the astonishing vistas of our vast country and consider how fortunate we are to have broken free of the shackles of unattainable lives of perfection sold by those snake oil salesmen, quacks, charlatans, con artists, and cheaters who have sold far too many Americans nothing but anguish by blaming others for what they are missing.

Nothing has been stolen from you aside from what you gave away. If you look into the window of the TV screen and witness the magic of incredible perfection, maybe you are already selling yourself on self-delusion. The horizon is not painted in gold, but it is embued with riches of wonder if you know how to see what you were never told was valuable. America is the dream; our freedom to venture into ourselves has never been denied, but the fortitude of the pioneer requires us to surmount obstacles, and in a modern age, that means we must clamber over our own ignorance and fear of failure.

Initially, the road may not be paved, and we might struggle to determine the direction we need to take if there is no one to guide us; such is the task of the relentless fighter intent on carving a way forward. When the destination is not obvious, we are presented with our own wherewithal to make decisions and choices that might harm us as well as deliver us.

It’s bumpy out here, and what if you can’t easily find what sustains you? You keep going forward and shut up, as being a stoic is at the heart of being American. If you believe you deserve to be called a citizen of the United States, a real American, you push forward against the odds that will feel stacked against you, but in this age, it is no longer the brute force of strength that will propel you, it is what you’ve fed your mind, your education, and the opportunity you must work hard at to empower you. The easy way is for losers, they stay behind and wait for others to pave a trail instead of making the arduous journey themselves. We do not choose to stay at home watching the game, firing up the barbecue, or tossing back a beer today; we venture out to explore unknown spaces and risk learning about something that may not be initially obvious as to what value it gave us. Still, we seize the moment and embrace our radical freedom to be everywhere, anywhere, and nowhere.

Ah, the proverbial cake is served in the form of a roast mutton sandwich on frybread. We have pulled into Chinle, Arizona, on the Navajo Nation, and it is here at an anonymous dirt lot where it might not be apparent to those driving by that a loose grouping of trucks and a few trailers is actually a small flea market. Hoping I’d get lucky to find what my deepest desires want right now, I creep over the bumpy lot, slowly driving past tables and vehicles until my eye caught a truck and trailer looking like they were offering hot food. While Caroline grabs the last dish of roast mutton deluxe with corn on the cob, potato, and green chili (which I’ll help myself to), I opt for the roast mutton sans frybread (it’s a diabetes thing) and am now being delivered to a state of sheepy nirvana.

What wasn’t at the market but was found in the parking lot of a gas station was a husband and wife selling pickle dillies, which we’ve also seen offered as picadillies. Salty, sour, and sweet isn’t everyone’s cup of yummy, but my wife isn’t everyone, so the idea of having a snowcone of tiger’s blood, banana, and black cherry syrup with layers of pickles is the perfect summer treat for her. As for me, yeah, that diabetes thing again. I’ll hold out for the possibility I might find more roast mutton further down the road. If you don’t try what you don’t know, you’ll never know what you didn’t know, and you’ll only have yourself to blame for a life not lived well.

Freedom and independence are choices in a land where they are guaranteed, but you’ll have to muster some resolve to risk your sense of certainty and put away your biases. Are your mind and imagination open like the sky on a summer day, or are you locked in the dungeon of hate and resentment that others are living the life you believe you deserve yet are unable to budge from your obstinacy to grab? I’d like to reiterate that Caroline and I are not special; we are simply willing to go out, look, savor, and participate in things that are not a normal part of our routine. We give ourselves permission to step out of our comfort zone, and yet we keep finding great comfort in discovering something new and exciting where others might find nothing.

I need to stop a moment and consider things I don’t know, such as the thoughts that might arise here at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This building is here because 158 years ago, the people of the Navajo Nation were force-marched over 300 miles from their native lands to a small reservation in eastern New Mexico. This act of human cruelty left deep scars on the Diné (Navajo), and why wouldn’t it? Forces representing the United States, along with disease and famine, killed more than a quarter of their population. So I can’t tell you how I might see the world and my opportunity in it if I came from an oppressed people. Regarding this trading post, it’s here because after the Long Walk, as the forced march is known, and the people returned to this land, trading posts were opened across the Navajo Nation as the U.S. government tried to support the Navajo in getting back on their feet.

This idea of trauma hindering the ability to move lives forward is obviously a touchy one that various ethnic and religious groups have had to contend with throughout time, but I can’t help but take inspiration from Jewish people, especially those who survived World War II. Roughly 33% of the global population of Jews died between 1933 and 1945 at the hands of the Nazis while their history of persecution for centuries prior is well known, and so their resilience to bounce back following the 2nd world war is nothing short of admirable. Tenacity to get past adversity seems to pay dividends, and while not all people are alike, there’s a lesson to be learned from not only people of the Jewish faith but maybe the Mormons, too. But I’m not here to dissect the minutiae of persecuted and oppressed people or to bring into context the barbarity of various societies over the course of history; I’m more interested in the valuable lessons learned. The most important of those lessons seems to me to be that bad, horrible, atrocious acts of cruelty are perpetrated on people from all walks of life, but the ability to stop the victimization thinking and lingering in despair is key to moving forward.

This positive way ahead applies to all of us as it seems that some relative majority of humans have suffered at the hands of neglect, abuse, lack of opportunity, bullying, condemnation, or some other bias that has negatively impacted lives. You see these Navajo woven baskets hanging upside-down here at the Hubbell Trading Post? This is considered bad in Navajo lore as baskets are used to hold important things such as food, and hanging them up in this way means they cannot serve their purpose and act in the capacity for which they were created It doesn’t always have to be this way and maybe someday they’ll be removed from the ceiling and restored to a position where, even if they never act as working baskets again, they’ll be on display and respected as what they were intended to be. People have to take themselves away from a position of remaining empty and restore their purpose. We are containers of important things such as knowledge, experience, and love, we should work together to develop our carrying capacity. We cannot relegate our function and utility to forces that only desire the sea of humanity to fill the role that brings fortune to a select few and not ourselves.

Think of this display as the face of humanity: we are pictures, baskets, pots, vessels, clothes, books, and rugs, things that all have great value, treasures if you will. When all these things are brought together, they are impressive in their magnificence, and we can easily recognize their collectibility. All of these things have something in common: someone with specific skills labored over each object to imbue them with form, particular characteristics, knowledge, artistic qualities, and every combination of those attributes that lends beauty and purpose to them. People are exactly the same, but we’ve lost sight of that as we’ve reduced individuals to being merely a thread, a particle of sand, a piece of wood pulp without real value, as though they were only a tiny constituent part of something bigger. This is plain wrong as we are all potentially fully formed artworks, fonts of wisdom, inspirations for others, and beacons of light that will lend skills and aesthetic grace to the next generation who can benefit from sharing if we don’t forget that we all have something worth offering each other.

The land is the surface we all dwell upon; the tree shares its durability and strength to give us shelter, comfort, tools, food, and heat. In the case of this hogan, the earth is also the roof that protects us from the elements. With basic sheltering needs cared for, we can turn our attention to our other needs, such as growing food, but in modern society, that is often available as a convenience at a nearby grocery store where the variety exceeds almost anything we might produce for ourselves. If those necessities are the minimum that is met, we must turn our attention to decorating ourselves and our environment. In earlier societies that meant painting and adorning ourselves, embellishing the walls of our dwelling, filling the air with our song and the music of our instruments. In modernity, while many are still occupied with the brand of clothes, makeup, size of a television, type of car, or cult objects turned into fetishized commodities such as phones, bikes, or handbags, the real element of total importance is how we enrich the internal world of our mind.

The exterior of your home, the entryway into that space, and the things that accentuate the appearance of places all carry little weight when it comes to what you bring to how you will see the world when standing before the multitude of situations you are ill-equipped to understand if you are willing to venture into the liminal.

Two-hundred forty-six years ago, in 1776, humanity required a document to express the need for freedom and declare independence as the greed and brutality of a ruling class that was busy owning other people in various forms of servitude or had yoked their subjects in rules and taxes that proved that souls and bodies had been conquered reached a breaking point. It would be 90 years after that and only after a civil war that those who might otherwise claim enlightenment were vanquished, and their ideas of slavery would start to be arrested. One hundred years after that and only one year after I was born, the Civil Rights Act was signed into law. With this knowledge of the glacial pace of change, I suppose reluctantly that the recognition of the importance of the freedom of mind space and the necessity of knowledge acquisition won’t be a larger issue of societal imperative before 2065, when I’m long dead. It’s tragic how slow we are to come full circle.

The human is but a vessel. It is this idea of us carrying the dreams, aspirations, inventions, covenants, tools, traditions, and love that we should honor this maxim instead of trying to squash it, which I feel we are doing at this time. While we cannot know with any certainty who our distant relatives were 10,000 years ago, I believe that although life might have been fraught with quite difficult struggles, they understood freedom and independence in ways that transcend anything we believe we know. Circumstances would have dictated radically different approaches to survival, but reliance on family, community, and the wisdom of those with life skills would have been paramount. Today, we proverbially throw the weak to the wolves; we cast them to the street and into existences that bring such despair that the only way to survive is through substance abuse, violence, and ultimately an early death. Our compassion for one another is less than we might place on rare and valuable objects such as this old Navajo basket.

Please do not correct me by giving examples of those who help one another, the individuals who succeeded against the odds, or the various programs designed to alleviate these issues. We know full well that ignorance locks the unfortunate in systems and paradigms they are unable to escape from. It is only with concerted efforts to pry them free of their own darkness that they have a chance at finding greater value from within.

Take these three clay vessels of Navajo creation and design; today, they are likely worth more than $20,000, but sitting on this shelf, their value is merely theoretical. Someone must fall in love with them and recognize what they represent, and then if they are so fortunate, they might find a way to acquire them for their own home, but if they are truly magnanimous, they will donate them to a museum for all of humanity to enjoy into the future. Imagine if society as a whole was so generous.

The three Diné women offered a generous and friendly embrace in taking the time to share in our enthusiasm for the native culture out here in Ganado, Arizona, and the history of the Navajo Nation as an outpost and container for the traditions of their ancestors. Caroline is once again sworn in as a Junior Ranger, but this time, it was after learning more about the lives of Ganado Mucho, who was the 12th signer of the U.S.-Navajo Treaty of 1868 that ended the captivity of  Navajo following the Long Walk. We learned of John Lorenzo Hubbell (known as the “Old Mexican”), who in 1878 started this trading post whose success in part relied on the friendship of Ganado Mucho. Hubbell, who had learned to speak Navajo, had the distinct advantage of being able to better share and communicate with the survivors of atrocities that risked erasing the people of these lands, and with that ability and knowledge, he helped establish trade in Navajo crafts that allowed the post to remain an important location into the 1960s when the National Park system took over operations. Had the Fred Harvey company taken over Hubbell, it might very well have been turned into a tourist attraction similar to the “Friendly Indian” places along historic Route 66, selling imported “hand-made” jewelry and plastic tomahawks. Today, we had an opportunity to peer into history and understand a little more about the changes our ancestors wrought upon the indigenous people of North America due to the empathy of a governmental body responsible for preserving not only nature but knowledge too. If you wonder if I’m contradicting myself, nothing is ever black and white, as people, governments, and cultures should all be evolving if they are to remain healthy. Just because mistakes are made every day, this doesn’t imply they can’t be rectified as our knowledge grows.

So there isn’t “nothing” out here in the middle of nowhere. There is everything that embodies the potential of people to find what they don’t yet know, to discover that freedom and independence emerge from wide open spaces that encourage people to learn what they’ve not found. First, people mustn’t be afraid of the apparent emptiness that their ignorance casts as something evil, hostile, or in need of being conquered by force; it is simply the unknown that, with time, is knowable. It is the wandering in open spaces that speaks of the greatest freedom and begs visitors to fill that apparent void with the truth of reality that exists everywhere.

The ideas regarding freedom and independence might seem like a rock impervious to the folly of fools, but it is precisely the fools that erode the structures that hold together the mountains of society and culture. Humanity is at a juncture on the map of our future to harness the potential of people to do good, or we can turn and do bad and erase all the beauty we could preserve if we chose to understand how fragile the most important things are. Happy 4th of July! On this day, we celebrate our opportunity to experience freedom and this incredible independence while being stewards of such important ideas.

Beautiful Summer Day in Utah

I need a generic photo for blog posts describing the first nights we are out on the road; that photo would be of a golden brown rotisserie chicken dripping fat as the fire sweats that old bird. This would best illustrate how we sleep on these restless roadside stops. One never knows the quality of the bed, the temperature of the room, or the wail of the window air-conditioning unit. Does this imply that we slept poorly? Obviously, because we struggled to find something even close to the thing known as sleep. So it goes, we know this dance in the been there, done that sense.

Our no-frills breakfast (thanks to our in-room microwave and the ice chest of stuff we are dragging with us) saved me from the potato/toast orgy my petulant inner 4-year-old expects when we are out in the land of the greasy spoon. The menu in cabin 6 featured warmed-up pre-cooked burgers and a shared avocado, which helped keep things in the keto realm for me, and right now, that will have to do.

A few miles away, the state line separating Arizona and Utah was crossed with no fanfare; we just drove in and minutes later stopped in Kanab for some weak coffee, which in a pinch is better than no coffee. Experience tells me that a photo of our coffee stop makes for boring imagery so I skipped that, and anyway, the scenery surrounding Kanab is far more interesting. No, this isn’t Bryce National Park, but it is indicative of what is seen out that way. As we were just visiting Bryce not too long ago, we’ll just keep going north.

Hey, is that something beautiful over there? Well then, we’ll just have to stop to look at the forest through the trees.

This brook with bleached volcanic stones was the main attraction, and while I should have made an effort to photograph the nearby craggy lava field, we have places to be and know from past experience that we can be our own worst enemies when it comes to arriving somewhere at a reasonable hour.

Ninety minutes north of Fredonia, Arizona,  we arrived at our first destination, Cedar Breaks National Monument. Not sure if these people are done with their 4th of July holiday already or if they were just passing through, but they are pointed at the exit. If you’ve read one of our previous posts where we visit a national park or monument you probably have guessed by now that we’ll be making our first stop at the visitors center for Caroline to pick up her Junior Ranger booklet.

With booklet in hand, along with a new t-shirt celebrating the season of wildflowers, we are on our way up the Spectra Point Trail. It’s obviously a beautiful day out here, and nobody else is parked at the trailhead yet, so things promise to be quiet. Our elevation is 10,500 feet above sea level (3,200 meters), and I’m feeling a bit lightheaded but nothing too uncomfortable.

What surprises await us just over the crest?

It doesn’t take long before I grow uncomfortable with the nearness to the edge of a massive dropoff. We only made it a little more than a quarter-mile up the trail before a particular corner whispered at me that I wouldn’t enjoy coming back this way as, at that point, I’d be having that open abyss painted spectacularly large throughout my peripheral vision. Time to turn around.

But it’s not time to leave; we are here to stop and smell the flowers, all of them.

Just up the road is our next trail, and it starts at the Chessmen Ridge Overlook; we’ll check that out first.

Blam, Chessman Ridge.

Straight ahead is the Pond Loop Trail. Oh, lucky day.

It was ten years ago that I first identified the common donkel (donkey-camel hybrid genetically engineered to walk on two legs) while on the island of Oahu; see proof right here. Since then, this specimen has proven to be incredibly valuable over and over again, though as she ages, her humps have been shrinking (front and back). The utility of my donkel cannot be underestimated as she continues the life support functions required to support me. All she requires on my part is a near-constant stream of hugs and for that, I’m offered water, snacks, sunscreen, and extended vision with the use of binoculars she seems to always have at the ready.

I thought pink and blue Spanish bluebells would have been on separate plants, but here’s nature proving me wrong, or is this just a trick of comingling plants and my inability to differentiate their cohabitation?

It’s spaces such as this that will have to suffice as being the parade route we’ll be missing this year, while the flowers will have to fill the gap of not seeing a fireworks show along the way.

Heading up into Utah this long 4th of July weekend during early summer, I don’t know what we were expecting beyond the planned hiking trails, but running into these columbines are proving to be a nice surprise. I wonder if Alltrails has a search function that allows us to find the most spectacular displays of wildflowers as an attribute of trails across America?

If you are thinking I’m getting a bit redundant with similar shots, well, that’s just the way it is, as these reminders are here to bring us back to July 1st, 2022, when Caroline and I found ourselves walking along a canyon edge to a pond during a magnificent wildflower bloom. These were the days, huh, wife?

The columbines are everywhere, and while I probably took photos of dozens, I present just one more, as this post is about more than beautiful flowers.

It’s also about forested paths under deep blue skies and fluffy little clouds.

Just out of sight was graffiti carved into a fallen tree that said, “Monet was here.”

What doesn’t mix with beauty are the idiots who feel the need to bring gadgets that play their music out loud so everyone within a couple of hundred feet has to listen to their insipid soundtrack that erases the wind, birds, frogs, insects, and any semblance of their consideration or intelligence. Then, there was the lunkhead who brought out his drone; even though everywhere you go in the parks today, people are told that they are in a “N0 Drone Zone.” People pay as much attention to that as those told that dogs are not allowed on the trail. Aside from those annoyances (quickly pushed out of mind for my well-being), we were again alone and enjoying the serenity of the place, undisturbed by the selfish abominations that went about their merry ways.

After a couple of miles, though our Fitbits said it was closer to three miles, we were aiming for the parking lot, where opened our ice chest and made some of these terrific lettuce-wrapped bologna-and-boiled-egg sandwiches.

Ms. Happy Nerd-Face has yet again been granted the privilege of representing another national monument after geeking out on answering all the questions there are to answer in order to be anointed a Junior Ranger. I’d imagine that by now, if she were to attempt wearing them all, she’d be stooped over like Quasimodo in the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

It was time to leave the park as we still have a long drive up Utah Highway 89 which parallels Interstate 15 but without the freeway stress and far enough away to feel like we are appropriately on vacation, not in heavy traffic and franchise ugliness.

A million thanks to everyone who opts for freeways, thus affording us nature freaks these moments when the entirety of nature within our purview is ours alone. I should point out that my grumbling about the numbskulls that intrude into our solemnity in some paragraphs/photos above is my own fault as we typically know better than being out in America on major holidays due to the dragging out the worst examples of rabble our country has to offer.

Just think about this: here we are under a blue sky where a dirt road slicing through grasslands running to a distant mountain offers us the opportunity to be among approximately twenty-three octovigintillion particles coursing through reality and where idiocy is kept at a distance, there is nothing else to do but enjoy the perfection of it all in peace and happiness.

Here is the result of a lost 20 minutes where I searched for what mountain this is. I know it’s near Provo, Utah, but I can’t find it using an image search from Microsoft or Google. Streetview hasn’t come to my rescue, and now, frantic, I have to give up and return to writing. I’d wager a dollar that after Caroline gets hold of this acquiescing to failure there’ll be a note from her telling future us just where we were and what mountain peak we were looking at. [It is the “backside” of Mount Timpanogos – Caroline]

This is Bridal Veil Falls, which I have zero ambiguity about. Believe it or not, there were people crazy enough to cut over the thinnest trail on the scree slope visible on the left of this image in order to reach the foot of the falls. My knees buckled as I watched others carefully maneuver the razor’s edge.

We are starting to run low on daylight as we start passing the Deer Creek Reservoir with this image having to stand in for the end of the day. We are already in the Wasatch Mountains, which is the main destination of this adventure, and are now only about 15 minutes away from Heber City, where we’ll be spending the next couple of nights at the Swiss Alps Inn.

Squeezing Everything Out of Sunday

Wake, shower, pack, eat breakfast (including blue corn pancakes), and get moving down the road. If we timed things correctly, we’d arrive at the El Malpais National Monument visitor center just as they were opening at 9:00. This sounds a bit rushed, and maybe it was a little, but we were moving further away from Arizona on the day we’d be heading home.

Caroline had finished the junior ranger booklet last night so we could pass through Grants, New Mexico, on the north side of the park, eliminating the need to double back later in the day to return it. Sworn in once more, this probably brings her close to 1,000 such badges she earned over the years.

These are the sandstone cliffs we were seeing in the distance yesterday while hiking on the cinder cone over at the El Calderon trail, it turns out that these are technically not a part of the park here at El Malpais. I suppose when one considers that El Malpais translates from Spanish to the bad country or badlands, it makes sense as the fossilized lava fields that make up the majority of the national monument are jagged, sharp, treacherous, and simply not very hospitable.

Just how angry that environment of nearly raw lava is will be experienced firsthand as we venture out on the Acoma-Zuni Trail. Prior to our arrival, we’ve read multiple times about the importance while hiking this 8-mile trail to always keep sight of the next cairn that will direct us through the maze that awaits us. Water, sunscreen, and a couple of snacks are in the bag, and we are ready to tackle what we can, which, by the way, is not the entirety as we are not fooling ourselves that we can hike 8 miles across and then turn around and hike back.

It’s called the common collared lizard, but, come on, with a blue-green body, yellow head, and yellow speckles down its back, I’d say this is anything but common. Also uncommon, it sat there making eye contact as I slowly approached to take its photo. I did not use a telephoto lens; I just walked up, pushed my camera closer, and snapped off a few shots.

Somewhere nearby, another hiker, a solo woman hiker, went by in a bit of a blur, she was on a mission. That mission has to do with the Continental Divide Trail that slices through here, using the Acoma-Zuni Trail. Her direction suggests she was on a southerly trek, which would also imply that this is not a thru-hike but working on another segment of a multi-year hike, likely the last bit of the 3,100-mile trail. A badass in the badlands.

At 59 years old, you might think I’ve learned a lesson or two about expectation, but every time we venture out on a new trail, I’m of the opinion that this one will be somehow easier than those we’ve traveled before. What happens is that reality intrudes on my fantasy, and I learn that new challenges are being presented. Steep-sloping rocks were not part of what was in my imagination, nor were chasms opened up by the ancient lava. The advice I’d read that hikers on this trail would benefit from hiking poles and gloves should have been heeded, but know-it-all John isn’t comfortable with being weighed down with unnecessary things like poles, an extra lens, water, food, or any of that other junk, it’s just me and my camera. So how is it that I’ve not died of exposure, dehydration, or starvation out in these environments? I have a wife who doesn’t see the world quite the same way I do and drags all that stuff and more along with us on her back, well, everything but the hiking poles that we are reconsidering the need for.

Thorns and beautiful flowers were the least of our worries out here. Come to think about it, I don’t think Caroline really had any worries at all.

It was me who had worries, fears, and anxiety as things grew steeper, chasms became deeper, and the angles sharper. All this, and we weren’t even 2,000 feet across the 7 miles of fossilized lave that was still ahead of us. Sadly, it was paralyzing enough that I had to turn back, and obviously, Caroline would be doing the same. Just as I run into debilitating emotions that stop me from getting further at times, one of my greater disappointments is that it also stymies Caroline’s opportunity to see more. Sure, she does her best to assure me that at least we were able to see and experience the things we’d never have already seen had we stayed at home, but this is still small consolation for the parts of the journey denied her.

So, with the Acoma-Zuni Trail now behind us, we are on to the next part of the day’s activities as we continue south.

We pulled into the parking lot at La Ventana Natural Arch and met another person hiking the CDT (Continental Divide Trail). A Lithuanian, though he calls Poland home, he’s on a 6-month visa in order to have enough time to complete the entirety of the hike from Mexico to Canada. Tom is his name, and he’d just descended that area in front of us, probably to the left. On a previous visit to the United States, he completed the Pacific Crest Trail. We left Tom with an ice-cold refill of one of his water bottles before taking off for our short walk to view the arch

There’s a massive arch in the center of this image, though it’s not exactly easy to see. I even went beyond the barrier to scramble up the well-used unofficial path of those who break the rules trying to get a better photo, only to learn that there isn’t a better photo to be had from here. Maybe at different times of the day, the light hits things just right so that the scale of things can be appreciated better, but today at mid-day, it just wasn’t happening.

We are heading up there somewhere next.

Just below this point, we parked the car near some picnic tables and walked through a lot of sand up here on the Narrow Rim Trail, that’s a 7.3-mile out-and-back hike.

In no time, we’re atop the cliff and walking in wow.

Cairns identify the way when the trail becomes difficult to see.

How it is that we are the only ones up here is astonishing as although the trail is considered moderate in difficulty, these old people think it’s pretty easy and seriously pretty on the eyes. As a matter of fact, we are bowled over and maybe a little bit disappointed that we didn’t head directly to this part of the park because we are well aware that we’ll not be able to make it to the overlook of the arch due to the time constraints that now exist if we want to get home before 10:00 pm. We won’t turn into pumpkins or stones should we not get home prior to that, but driving at night comes with growing uncertainty the older I get, or maybe I’m no longer able to deal with fatigue the same way as I could 20 years ago.

A little more than a mile into the hike we start discussing if we’ve gone far enough. We agree we have, but it’s so incredibly, perfectly beautiful out here that we’ll just keep on a short bit more, just to the next corner to check out the view, and then we’ll reconsider.

This keeps on like that until we’ve hiked at least 2 miles up the Narrows Rim for this look facing northwest behind us. It cannot be overstated how we are walking in the profound, crushed by the gravity of what is being offered us up here all alone. How can it be possible that we are experiencing this without a thousand others walking with us, confirming to one another that we are the fortunate people of the earth, unable to comprehend why it should be us? With eyes saturated, we agree that this is really as good a spot as any to turn around. Sure, we know we are only about 1.5 miles from the overlook that would offer an overhead view of La Ventana Arch, but if we went that far, what would we have to come back to?

Yesterday, I didn’t think I had anything else to say about lichen, and then I somehow found something, but today, I’m not even going to try other than to ask, isn’t it magnificent?

People may extinct themselves, but as the saying goes, life finds a way, as evidenced by a tree growing out of rock. If you know me, you might be asking, “Hey John, did you just quote Jurrasic Park?” Just remember that I was once young and watched the same pop pap that all of us take in, and as I’ve explained before, I had to stop as those things not only become ingrained in my memories, they become poisons that take a greater place in my head where that damned theme song to Gilligans Island or Arnold telling us, “I’ll be back,” continue to live.

While the Acoma-Zuni trail is further north of here, this is essentially what we were supposed to be hiking upon. It all looks so innocuous from a few hundred feet above, but I swear that down there, I had the feeling that those rocks were the jaws of some t-rex bent on consuming me. I should give this writing exercise a break about right now as once I start drifting into movie references I have a hard time pulling myself back from that ledge.

About to reencounter the flat earth, we’ve already decided to stick around one of the picnic tables to enjoy our lunch right here instead of searching for something hot that would just make us later getting home, seeing that it would have us sitting down for the meal because I prefer not to eat from styrofoam while moving down the road.

This was the smart thing to do as otherwise we’d have brought all this food just to take it home. I now know that I’m a fan of bologna and hardboiled egg sandwiches on multi-grain bread; the only thing missing was potato chips sitting atop the egg slices. Add an apple, some popcorn, and a couple of cashews, and this made for the best lunch we’d ever had on this particular Sunday in May during 2022. If we could do it all over again, we’d rewind the tape and not change a thing.

I thought we were heading home, but the short Lava Falls Trail held enough attraction for Caroline that we turned down the short dirt road for the drive to the trailhead.

The trail is a short 1-mile affair rated as easy, but that doesn’t take into consideration that hikers have to step over what amounts to chasms. I believe something goes haywire in my brain when out in nature, as I’d swear this crack in the earth appeared much larger in person than what I see in my photograph. Maybe I should blame Herr Nietzsche for planting those thoughts regarding the staring into ravines (or something to that effect) for my looking for my inner lusus naturae somewhere down there in the darkened bowels. Would Freud suggest that my fear is of the below and going down while ascending and going higher is my preferred space? Ah yes, thanks to my mother who abandoned me as a child, I’m afraid of what represents her vagina, but on the other hand, I’m afraid of heights; do they represent the large phallus of the father? Good thing I’m no Freudian scholar or any other scholar for that matter, as I’m fairly certain, I’d be in the first order of scatological demon-freaks plumbing the genital metaphors due to my potty mind that on occasion reveals my aged childish imagination.

Yesterday on the El Calderon trail, we learned about why there were black and red cinders in different areas; they stem from different volcanic eruptions. There are also obvious reasons why lava can have color variations, such as we saw there on the trail and here at Lava Falls; the black lava has more magnesium, while the red contains more iron. I thought this was a great example of two flows that sit right next to each other and yet are chemically quite different.

Following the path of the cairns is the advice proffered, but I’ve run out of faith and chosen our return to the safety of anywhere else instead of finishing our loop trail. Maybe by writing about hiking poles once again, I’ll draw closer to finding the religion of using these crutches. With that in mind, I did a quick search for the pros and cons of hiking with poles; steadying yourself in precarious balancing situations is the number one pro, while having your hands free for quick photos is the first con I’m noting.

If you were to glance over our photos of traveling in Europe, you might arrive at the conclusion that we are church snobs. Far from it, we love all churches but especially Catholic ones, as they are mostly open. Here in Quemado, New Mexico, at the intersection of Nothing and Vast Openness, we encountered the Sacred Heart Church. It’s a small affair, and it being Sunday, it just had to be open.

Built during the 1930s, around the time that Quemado was referred to as the Rodeo Center of New Mexico, this church is a pretty good reflection of the building materials available in the area. Historical information about this area is sparse, though a book titled A History of Highway 60 and the Railroad Towns on the Belen, New Mexico Cutoff by Dixie Boyle seems to have the most data about the area in general that I could find.

Thirty-five miles later, we are back in Arizona with only 236 miles (380km) until we reach home.

We jumped back in time at the Arizona State Line, gaining time and allowing us to live the 16th hour of the day all over again. It’s as though we see the future from the past that was already lived once but is now happening in a new space. Looks good from here.

We’d simply turned around to look into the distance of where we’d come from and were curious if we were, in fact, gleaning two event horizons separated by the quanta of perception as we traveled through the wormhole called Daylight Savings Time. What is found behind is not so ahead, which implies we are moving between dimensions, right?

As if the intra-time portal opened between the geographic regions of Arizona and New Mexico wasn’t enough, we stumbled into a full eclipse of the moon. Not just any eclipse either, as you can easily see, this is a Blood Moon that prophecy suggests will guide Caroline and me into a blissful future paved with great happiness.

A Perfect Saturday in New Mexico

Sunrise in Zuni, New Mexico

Out with the rising sun, barking dogs, hornos (beehive-shaped adobe ovens pictured below), and a man named Elroy singing us a song dedicated to John and Caroline while accompanying himself on the air guitar; this was a first. That’s how our perfect Saturday began in the Native American village of Zuni, New Mexico.

Bread ovens in Zuni, New Mexico

We are staying at the one and only place for lodging in this small town of approximately 6,000 people, the Inn at Halona. Further north up on Interstate 40, traveling from Gallup, Grants, and Albuquerque to points further east, the towns along the freeway are noisy, generic, and sad. Some might argue that Zuni, a bit south of all that, is sad, too, but they’d be wrong. It’s simply reflecting with brutal honesty how colonizers disadvantaged a people for which there was little room in the expanse of white America. In this sense, Zuni is much like Window Rock, Arizona, or Oglala, South Dakota, but the locals have never been less than stellar with us. It’s strange how those on the margin are often some of the most generous people we meet during our travels.

Zuni, New Mexico

Last night, during a late check-in, we learned (maybe we were reminded, I’m not sure) that breakfast was included. Since the Halona Inn is a bed and breakfast, it should have been apparent that it would include the first meal of our day. We dined on a sumptuous affair crowned by blue corn pancakes and served promptly at 7:00. Trey is our server and cook, and I’d likely be correct in saying that she’s A’shiwi (the Spanish named the people of this region Zuni). Her enthusiasm and friendliness really contributed to breakfast being better than it might have otherwise been.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

There was some hesitation in eating breakfast at the Inn as we’d brought our own to allow us to get out on the trail at daybreak, but thinking twice about it, a hot breakfast here on the Zuni reservation sounded enticing. Good thing it worked out this way and that we were willing to linger a bit longer on our way to El Morro National Monument as it turned out that the park doesn’t open until 9:00 anyway. We waited less than 5 minutes before the automatic gate swung open, allowing us to make our way to the visitor center and the trailhead.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

There are three possible paths from here for us to take; the first goes to the right to Inscription Rock and Mesa Top Trail Loop further on. We can go left directly to the Mesa Top Trail and the Pueblo ruin we’ll also reach if we take a right. Our third choice is to turn around and leave; well, that’s hardly a viable choice after putting ourselves out here just for this anticipated hiking adventure.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

We opted to go to the right to match our political affiliation (NOT), and the first unexpected sight is found here in this alcove. Signs of waterfalls abound. Obviously, with the cloudless blue skies that are accompanying our day, there’s not a drop of moisture that will flow from those chutes carved into the sandstone. But just below…

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

…is this pool with a depth of about 12 feet. This reliable source of water brought people into the area for centuries.

Petroglyphs at El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Obviously, Native Americans were the first in the area centuries before anyone of European descent arrived on the scene.

Petroglyphs at El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

The Ancestral Pueblo Indians who lived on the cliffs above were present from around 1275 to 1350 AD, while the Zuni/A’shiwi have been living in the area for about 1300 years.

Inscriptions at El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Then, back in about 1540, Francisco Vázquez de Coronado first encountered the Zuni. Whether he made it to this watering hole remains unknown, but there you have it, a European in the Southwest of the North American continent. Sixty-five years later, Juan de Oñate passed through here, leaving his autograph on Inscription Rock. This photo is not of that precise panel but is a fair enough representation of the style of messages left when Spaniards were passing through. Juan de Oñate came to New Mexico in 1598 and became a villain in the eyes of the Puebloan Indians in the area when he ordered the slaughter of 500 people in retribution for the killing of a dozen conquistadors in 1599.

The inscription pictured above says, “We passed by here, the Sergeant Major and Captain Juan de Archuleta and Adjutant Diego Martin Barba and Ensign Agustin de Ynojos. The year of 1636”

Inscriptions at El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Skip this part of my story if you want to avoid controversial politics about which I’m opinionated but ofwhich I am no expert. A segment of America is raging at the moment of this writing about Critical Race Theory (CRT) and the Great Replacement bizarro idea. Critical Race Theory opponents are afraid that white children might be made responsible for answering to the misdeeds of their forefathers, while the Great Replacement asserts that minorities are out to replace white people. I’m of the belief that the white Christian hegemonistic bias that has been at work for far too long upon these shores is afraid to let go. Where once we railed against primitive, archaic people who originally populated this country, we ourselves are now the primitive, archaic people afraid of change.

Although white Europeans from Spain arrived in the lands that would become the western United States 80 years before the pilgrims landed and Ponce de Leon visited what would become Florida in 1513, I was taught that American history really begins at Jamestown in 1607 and at Plymouth Rock in late 1620 and then again in 1776 while the interloping Spaniards were of no particular consequence as they were not from North European stock anyway which is where the good god-fearing Christians come from. Was the Catholicism of the Spaniards part of the problem and the reason why there was so much controversy around John F. Kennedy becoming president as a Catholic? Our fundamentalist roots that took hold in the northeast feel like a boat anchor holding America back as we’ve sacrificed education (maybe a poor example, but look at the first carving made by an American citizen at this monument that includes a typo, insciptions) in order to enforce a kind of intellectual violence aimed at maintaining conformity and fear of the future. Our common knowledge is no longer commensurate with the rigor required at this time in history.

Someday, this massive tottering chunk of sandstone will collapse, and the monument at El Morro will be changed. With the passage of time, the inscriptions carved on these walls, noting who passed through here starting before 1605 and continuing until the early 20th century when this area was designated a national monument, will all fade and disappear. But none of this will change the fact that this was a part of our cultural history and remains part of the permanence of the earth. In my brief moment of being human, I have the opportunity to experience these things the way they are, understand how they were, and hope to leave it all in at least the same condition with which I was fortunate enough to have been presented. Maybe that’s the best we can do with nature and history, but regarding our intellectual and cultural capacity, we should always be striving to build personal monuments that can best weather the elements of reflection and accountability.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

We slog up the switchbacks as we need to gain elevation if we are to capture what lies above in the unknown heavens that remain out of sight.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

But don’t forget to get lost in the enchanting details that might otherwise remain unseen should your desire to reach the destination have you racing over the trail. This applies not only to the day or hour but to the entirety of your life.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

So, there you are, traveling with confidence and curiosity until you encounter the BLOCK. Fear drills into you, and uncertainty grips your strength as the ability to carry on is no longer certain. The good intentions begin to crumble. That’s just what happens to me every time I reach that place in my path where my personal weakness rears its ugly head, screaming at me to start trembling. I oblige as I consider the abyss I’ll certainly stumble into because the sides of the path ahead that would otherwise support me fall abruptly into apparent nothingness. This is my fear of heights, where an irrational mind is making decisions that would stop me in my tracks. It does happen that I am forced to give in to that crippling effect, but today won’t be that time.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Before we ever got out here, I examined the trail from across the ridge using our binoculars. I watched a family of five traverse the terrifying heights of near-certain death with their 5, 7, and 8-year-old (my estimation) children seemingly oblivious of their own mortality; oh yeah, they are at that age they are unaware of such things. I had to dig deep to muster the strength of determination if we were to see that pueblo ruin on the other side with our own eyes. I just had to share this experience with Caroline instead of denying the two of us the reward of accomplishing what we set out to do. This idea of never giving up sure comes at a cost; in this instance, it’s called panic.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

If you look at the photos I’m sharing here on the razor’s edge and wonder what the big deal is, consider that I’m only able to stop and snap an image where I’m absolutely certain about my footing. Ambiguity about my wavering center of gravity requires I focus on the most serious of tasks, where are my safe places, and don’t fixate on the potential of my feet not performing as they have for more than 55 years. This photo of the stairs was one such moment where I still had a split second to grab the photo and capture this brilliant carving showing us the way down. The place I was standing was not ideal, but I was able to bring up the camera just long enough to snap this image, not two shots, just this one, of which I was uncertain if I’d framed it decently.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Breathe, find the center, look around, and calm down. There’s immense beauty out here and profound accomplishment when each step demands a level of commitment that, from moment to moment, feels impossible. I cannot photograph the places that offer the greatest accomplishment, that of me overcoming me, but when I get to my safe place, I can stop to revel in what I just did and the wonderful new sights and vistas that have opened up for me having gone through the impossible. Writing when I’m less than inspired is part of this design to go further. I don’t always have inspired words; some could argue that I never have but I do have the wherewithal to not give up or take an alternative easy path. As much as I loathe the difficulties, I’m aware that I’m able, with enough effort, to make the kinds of strides that, in retrospect, gave me more life than I would have otherwise found in front of a TV, playing a video game, or tossing back a drink at the sports bar. That’s right; I’m here on the Headlands Trail at El Morro, finding out more about myself, love, aesthetics, beauty, strength, and the universe just by looking at the patterns found in a random spot of sandstone.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

This is how we ascend to heights above our meager beginnings. From deep below, where we dwell in the murky world of our naivete and ignorance, we watch the shadows of others creating our false reality while, on rare occasions, the individual arrives on the scene who appears to have been born with an impatience to see, know, and do more. Then the question arises once you’ve climbed those stairs: do you own a vocabulary and evolving knowledge of the world to find sense and meaning in that obscure realm of the unknown you’ve not experienced prior to your arrival?

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Look for luxury hotels in New York City, and you’ll easily find a dozen that will want more than $1000 a night; if you are seriously wealthy, you can part with as much as $75,000 per evening. Should you want to spend a weekend between a pueblo and a kiva, well, that’s priceless, priceless because it’s not available. There’s no such accommodation or situation that allows a visitor to spend any amount of money or time that brings them into the history, ritual, ceremony, or sharing of the sacred with the Puebloan people of the Southwest. For me, and if I can speak for my significant other, the sacred, be it sea, mountain, creature, desert, sunrise or sunset, cathedral, laughter, or the imagined world of what might occur within the kiva, these are the most profound luxuries that can only be experienced with the desire to travel further within ourselves.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Though I’ve written more than a few times about kivas, I should consider that not everyone knows what they are as they encounter one of my posts. A kiva is a subterranean room, as pictured here and above, that at one time had a roof over it. These rooms were used for the rites of the Kachina and for political meetings. Among the Puebloans of today, kivas are still in use, but there is no invitation for outsiders to witness the proceedings due to our white-dominant culture having never been able to demonstrate respect for the practices of a people long considered not only primitive but subhuman, too. As a white man, I have no possible ability to conceive of what it’s like to be a person of color who’s been marginalized as a type of animal any more than I can understand what it is to be a woman, a fish, or a grain of sand.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

We’ve been making movies for more than 100 years, and while we’ve explored themes of aliens, monsters, outer space, the bottom of the sea, all types of realms out of fantasy, heroes, love, tragedy, war, cooking, dancing, and most anything else imaginable out of the more than 250,000 films ever made but there are very few that portray Native Americans in a realistic light. What was life like for the Ancestral Pueblo Indians? What did the area around Phoenix, Arizona, look like 1500 years ago when the Hohokam Indians built irrigation canals, farmed, and possibly visited Chaco Canyon over in New Mexico to trade with other indigenous people coming up from Central America? Sadly, my head is full of images of Indians on horses yelping while shooting arrows at cowboys, which always won when it comes to movies.

El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

Now, just because the surface of things might be blemished by events that occurred deep in history, that doesn’t make us accountable for the flow of nature and how the world was evolving. Maybe what affected the variations that occurred in this sandstone were anomalies, and for some viewers of these artifacts, the uniformity of what their expectations informed them to appreciate is not being met here, but for others, this is a mark of perfection. What I mean to say is that ugly things certainly happened in our recent histories, but that doesn’t imply we’ll be perpetuating those poor behaviors; if we are, that’s a different matter. If we fail to address those who would bring intentional harm to people, places, and things that we should know better through reasoning, then our complicity in inflicting damage is an issue we must face and suffer the consequences of our own gross stupidity.

Junior Ranger Caroline Wise at El Morro National Monument, New Mexico

On the other hand, we can all quite easily celebrate the potential good within us when we slow down, take the time to get out of our routine, and maybe even do something that’s not altogether easy. From creating a grueling travel itinerary that promises to bring us to difficult junctures to those delightful moments when, after completing a junior ranger booklet, Caroline is awarded a badge that affirms she’s learned something more about the place we just invested so much in being at.

Ancient Way Cafe in Ramah, New Mexico

Time for a pause in the philosophy of participation and awareness; our stomachs needed to take the stage. Our expectations were low out here in Ramah, New Mexico, population 505; how good might a meal be in a town this small? Off the chart is the answer. The Ancient Way Cafe served us Reuben and BBQ brisket sandwiches that were nothing less than terrific; we skipped the potato chips, opting for a salad, and then, against our better judgment, we considered dessert. Really, nothing, in particular spoke to us, but a sweet sounded nice after our morning hike; plus, we are on vacation. With serious reluctance, we agreed on their apple pie ala mode but not just any apple pie but New Mexico style, meaning it came with pine nuts and green chili. No way, fresh apples, spicy chilies, not a lot of sugar, and an awesome crust. This required a couple of cups of coffee so we could kick back and enjoy this unexpected luxury. There is no doubt in our minds that this will be the best pie we have this year as it’s easily the best pie we’ve had in years.

A perfect start to the morning, a perfect hike, perfect weather, and a perfect lunch all lend appreciation to our basking in the incredible where the horizon only holds more promise of great things. Sure, we could choose to see the cost of gasoline, lodging, and food as being impediments to enjoying these moments, but those are small consequences of using our time to find something more meaningful within ourselves that also works to further cement the intense relationship we share.

Caroline Wise at El Malpais National Monument Visitor Center in Grants, New Mexico

We jump-started Sunday by making the nearly hour-long drive to Grants, New Mexico up on Interstate 40 to dip into the El Malpais National Monument Visitor Center. By collecting the junior ranger booklet today, we’d be able to drop it off in the morning tomorrow to avoid backtracking up north instead of starting our trek home to the southwest. It’s not that we’d be in a hurry to rush home come Sunday, but by being able to retain the 90 minutes we might lose by needing to return to Grants, we’d have more opportunity to linger in the areas we might find attractive. Regarding this park and how to pronounce its name, we just learned this today: the park service says it is spoken this way: ehl MAHL-pye-EES.

Grants, New Mexico

Interstate 40 was a culture killer. The small businesses that once lined the legendary Route 66 have been devastated. Driving through Grants is a great example of what is lost when progress demands that speed and efficiency rule the day, which, to be fair, should be expected when projections of traffic would overwhelm the previous roadway. Without economic assistance after the interstate came in, many small businesses shut down, and their properties were left to rot as sad reminders of a romantic age following World War II, when Americans ventured into parts of their country they may have only seen in the movies. Our elderly relatives who stayed in quaint motels with air conditioning, phones in the room, and swimming pools after a day of driving nearly 50 mph before stopping at the trading posts and diners along the way were building mythologies of the Great American Road Trip. Today, many of those roads are within what we refer to as fly-over states as commercial aircraft made it cheaper to fly between Des Moines and Las Vegas. Off-ramps where cars and trucks rapidly decelerate from 80mph are now the surviving stops along America’s highways where people dip in for refueling, a cup of coffee, and some fast food from one of the available drive-thrus. And all this from the guy who’d like to brag about a lack of nostalgia.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

In trying to bring more detail to these posts, I often spend no small amount of time researching something or other about a particular location, in this instance, our next trail called El Calderon. I’m expecting somebody’s name, or maybe the word is related to the caldera, but what was nearly at the top of the list was the urban dictionary definition that brought a nice chuckle to my inner-14-year-old immature self; it reads: noun 1. A large, cavernous asshole similar to the caldera in a volcano; a hot, steamy, wide vagina. Example: Diarrhea erupted out of Erick’s Calderon like hot magma out of a volcano. Yep, I can see that in my photo.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Well, this is an uncomfortable transition as I’m not able to muster an idea of how I go from the previous subject reference to talking about the beauty of lichen. I just searched the 2,870 published blog posts I’ve written over the years and see that I’ve written about lichen some 30 other times. I’m not going to take the time right now to read those posts as though I might discover some essence of lichen I’ve not yet shared. As a matter of fact, I hope that someone reading this might call me out for grasping at nothing to cover that I have nothing to say about this lichen growing on volcanic scoria rock.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

The lava tubes are off-limits here during our visit; seems that they might be forever off-limits. In the case of the bat cave, which is the hole straight ahead, due to a host of human impacts on the colony, we are no longer welcome lest we extinct them. To the left of this image in the same depression is the Xenolith cave, which requires a permit to visit, though I think those are currently not available.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

We’ve entered the El Calderon cinder cone, and while there’s a certain cool factor, there’s also an accompanying pucker factor. Sure, these loose cinders have been relatively stable for 115,000 years by now, but how does one ever really know when the steep slopes of a volcanic cone might crumble in a landslide, dragging trees, cinders, and John to the bottom of the cone?

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Frightened as I was, walking on millions of tiny hard rocks that seemed to shift with every step, I made it up to the rim trail.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Looking out over the cone rim, I quickly ascertained that nature would be intent on taking my life today if I dared venture out upon the edge. I was freaking out as it was, walking on cinders contained by these meager pieces of wood that offered me little in the sense of personal security. I could see across the way an invitation to join the abyss as I was certain to slip on my fear.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Oh yeah, flat land. Not only was this path going to bring us back to the parking lot, but it would also allow us bragging rights about that day we were out on the Continental Divide Trail; who cares that it would only be one mile of the 3,100 mile total?

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

As ejecta leave the comfort of the netherworld and come to fly through the air or flow upon the surface of Earth, the escaping gases leave these holes, and it is this kind of volcanic rock I was referencing when I wrote of lichen growing upon scoria, a few photos above.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

We’ve been out here among the trees and volcanic debris, falling in love with how beautiful it all is, how isolated we feel as there’s nobody else on the 5.6-mile trail with us, and how lucky we are to even want to be in these types of places. And though we are approaching 1o miles and our feet are tiring, we really don’t want the trail to end.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Going into this, we had no idea that New Mexico had an official state grass, but it turns out that this Blue Grama is, in fact, the grass that holds that distinction.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Should we jump on it or crawl under it? Caroline wanted nothing to do with either idea, well, neither did I…until I saw that on the left side, there was a hole that would make for an interesting framing of her face if she got up in there. Still a big nope. Was it the chance of snakes being under there or that I might walk over the volcano bridge trying to scare her that she stayed away?

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Oooh, am I looking at filaments of fungi colonized by cyanobacteria? You betchya. While the species looking at this lichen (me, the human) has been walking the earth for about 2 million years, and this particular example of its creatures will likely only be here for about 80 years, there are lichens on our planet that have been dated to 8,600 years old. The descendants of this composite organism have existed for between 250 – 480 million years with some controversial research suggesting that forms of lichen might have existed over 2 billion years ago. Not that this stuff really matters, but in some sense, this is like time travel, where, right before our faces, we are able to look into the proverbial faces of a living thing that predates everything else around us.

And then totally unrelated (unless you are interested in the appearance of life on this planet), but one of those facts (unless you are a fundamentalist) that piques my sense of aha-ness is how, while looking at the lichen, I consider what my wife shared with me last week. She said, “Isn’t it strange to think that sharks have been swimming in the ocean since before there were trees?” There’s a species that survived planetary cataclysm, extinctions including that of the dinosaurs, and ice ages, but it might not survive us because humans hate sharks and would rather eat or kill them instead of allowing them to coexist. Oh, you want to remind me that we are doing the same with wolves and bears? For the sake of life here on earth, lichen can consider itself lucky that we’ve not figured out how to make bullets small enough to wipe it out.

Maybe my point is that while we are allowed to fall into the magnificence of nature, it seems we are just as happy to have our eyes glued to television screens, our minds stuck on the shenanigans and crimes of celebrity and politics, and our souls bound to the lies we tell each other for the cause of making money and busy work so we don’t explore deeper questions of existence. So what is smarter, lichen or the two-legged idiots that would burn the planet to a crisp if it made madmen richer and eternally famous?

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

Jeez, what am I thinking when all I really want to do is finish this post so I can move further down the metaphorical trail here days after we left the literal trail called El Calderon? As I typed the last period after three paragraphs and 385 words above, which are just a small part of the over 4,500 words of this post that will never be read, I have to wonder why I didn’t just break it up to fill the spaces below. There’s an easy answer here that goes like this: writing allows me to linger in the experience of walking in the infinity of potential enjoyed beyond the confines of time and space we typically live in while in the routine of life. Out here, everything is blooming, happening, sparkling, and emerging before our senses. So the longer I dwell here with the images cementing memories of what might have otherwise passed, I’m still hiking in the woods with the smiling-faced human seen here in this photo among the lichen, trees, bugs, scoria, blue grama, and a trillion other things we missed.

El Calderon Trail at El Malpais National Monument in New Mexico

I’m starting to see a trend with these travel blog posts, specifically, Saturdays, where I pen this monumental screed that is likely quite duplicative of what preceded it. Don’t worry, though; I won’t give up writing about each and every trip we take this year, regardless of how repetitive I might be. I’m not too worried that I’ll write verbatim what’s been written before, but what choice do I have other than plagiarizing myself? Hmmm, I’m not cutting and pasting elements from those previous missives, so technically, I’m not really plagiarizing myself, but is there a word for being so thematically similar that it might sound like I’ve said it all before? Not to be indignant but even if I were redundant, who f’ing cares? I will forever know things about my life shared with Caroline that will remain vibrantly alive in our shadow years, where the glow of memories will be inching ever closer to darkness and my ultimate demise. The sun may be setting, but our enthusiasm to set out on yet another trail is not diminishing, and my desire to capture some tiny intrinsic part of what made a day special is still running full steam ahead.

And so I write, trying to catch those elusive rays that illuminate not just the day but our continuing appreciation of the world and each other. This is all nothing more than the next installment in the saga of love, love of nature, love of sound, scent, hands, smiles, and the most tender moments found when love appears as golden as what lies ahead on the horizon of where we are yet to travel.