Mother and Daughter

Jutta Engelhardt and her Daughter Caroline Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

This visit with Jutta will be different than all of her previous vacations to America. This is a slow trip. During the other times in the United States, we always had epic road trips across America in order for her to catch up on a lifetime of never having been here. We wanted her to see as much as possible and so we took her to New York City and the Statue of Liberty, the White House in Washington D.C., the Florida Keys for snorkeling, New Orleans, Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon, Death Valley, Alcatraz, and a thousand points between. With her hip limiting her mobility and her strength not what it used to be, we are taking it easy and just letting her spend time with us in our normal routine. Of course, there will be some short excursions but nothing too taxing.

Jutta Back Behind The Wheel

Jutta Engelhardt driving in Colorado

Fresh off the plane and on our way south. When I offered Jutta the opportunity to drive the car, she jumped at the chance. On a previous visit back in 2005, she also took the wheel with me out on a road trip, the first time in more than 20 years since she’d driven last. I thought she might be too jet-lagged to be sharp about things, but I guess the thought of driving once more in America was the jolt of energy that cleared away that fog.

El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

To not fatigue Jutta or have her gimp hip sitting too long in the car, we stayed in Socorro, New Mexico, for the night. This was not her first time here. During the winter of 2007, we dragged her out for New Year’s Day to Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge on an icy morning for her to witness the lift-off of some 30,000 snow geese at the break of dawn. She also ate here at El Camino Family Restaurant, as we always eat here, some days even multiple times a day.

Jutta Engelhardt at El Camino Family Restaurant in Socorro, New Mexico

After dinner, we had pie and coffee while kicking back at the diner. That’s the American way.

Boulder, Colorado

Boulder, Colorado

Took the day to drive up to Denver, Colorado, on a mission to pick up my mother-in-law, Jutta. Earlier in the year, she fell and broke her hip. While visiting her immediately after her surgery, we told her that if she worked hard to recover, we’d have her over as soon as she was fit. That time is now seven months later, but to make traveling easier for her and as short as possible, the closest non-stop flight was into Denver from Frankfurt, so here I am on my way.

Slow Drive

Somewhere in Colorado

Vague stuff here because this wasn’t added until February 2023. I know I stopped in Moab, Utah, on the way to Colorado, as I have quite the blurry photo of me standing in front of Steve Kenny’s old Ford Bronco with the Colorado license plate RUHAIRY. Our boatman from the Grand Canyon Dory trip back in 2010 was now working for OARS in Moab, so I stopped in to say hi. The photo is likely not too far from Boulder, Colorado, where I spent the night.

The Emptiness of Nostalgia

Ruins at Two Guns, Arizona

This strange beast called nostalgia is a difficult enemy to avoid. Out in the middle of the country, I’m bombarded with its presence. It starts with the memories of having traveled to these places before. If anything has changed, it might be the asphalt I drove over; everything else looks the same. After hours of hauling over the arid landscape and finally finding my mind empty, I turn on the radio. Big mistake, but for whatever reason, not easily rectified. I leave it on. Hit after hit from my youth drills into old memories, giving life to sleeping giants that should remain dormant.

Highway 77 heading north through the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

While I was aware of these 70’s classics as a boy and a teen, I was running away from them as a kid. Now, a man of 50, I listen in to hear what I never wanted to. They conjure images of men and women in their 60s and 70s portrayed by their roadside billboard portraits where I see the announcements of their imminent return on the casino circuit scattered across America. In those places are the nostalgic, those who are whittling away their time, spending their few remaining days in memories of an age perceived to have been perfect – and these songs are their faithful soundtrack. For me, they are bitter reminders that some people’s lives get stuck in a time.

Alpaca's wandering the Navajo Reservation like sheep

For the foreigner and out-of-state traveler, this is a journey into novelty. They are building new memories from new experiences. They are not sheep. I only hope the soundtrack is new, too, or else this adventure might blur into a continuation of the familiar, albeit with shades of the hitherto unseen.

Sunset on the Navajo Reservation in northern Arizona

The place across from me is empty. It is made emptier by the fact that I’m the only person here who is alone. A couple of conversations are happening in my tongue; German, Chinese, and Navajo are all within earshot. Caroline is missing; this road trip is solo, at least the first half, anyway. Without ceremony, my dinner is wolfed, and only a gratuity and signature stand between me and my departure from the Twin Rocks Cafe here in Bluff, Utah; a place of great nostalgia, not because of the music though, this time it is the memory of my missing wife.