Death’s Vacuum

Dead Buzzard

When your lowly job is to feed on the dead, upon your own demise the rot you embody leaves your corpse alone to turn to dust as the other scavengers avoid your stench. Along the roads of Arizona, it is not uncommon to see the buzzard snarfing morsels off a rabbit pelt left parched and flat after a good tenderizing from the passing trucks. That shriveled dead coyote that was there yesterday will be but a tuft of fur in a day or two. Snakes and other birds disappear in hours, but this ugly malcontent who while alive used to belly up and chow on the fetid remains of mystery roadkill meal du jour cannot find takers on a hot summer day, its shriveling head baking all day into the night. I passed this bird in the desert for the first time more than five days ago, today it looks much the way it did then. I must surmise that even buzzards have standards and won’t stoop to cannibalism. I wonder if its meat tastes like chicken.

Sidney

Sidney Clay originally from New Orleans now living in Phoenix, Arizona - survivor of hurricane Katrina

Meet Sidney Clay, born in the month of March 1942; he’s 68 years old and lived in New Orleans, Louisiana, for the better part of his life. Five years ago, early in the morning, Sidney was asleep in his apartment on St. Charles Avenue west of the French Quarter, surrounded by the floods brought on by Hurricane Katrina, when he awoke to the sound of helicopters. Stepping outside, he thought fresh drinking water was being delivered, but he was wrong. That helicopter crew “rescued” Sidney. Carrying not much more than the clothes on his back, he found himself airborne for the first time in his life. The next stop was New Orleans airport, where he found out they were evacuating him to Corpus Christi, Texas. Once in Corpus Christi, it was discovered that Sidney had family in Phoenix, Arizona, and off he was whisked to the middle of the desert.

He left with nothing and arrived with nothing. But this would turn out to be less than nothing. This man left school in Lafayette, Louisiana during the 7th grade, left home at age 17, and went right to work for Pendleton Security as a security guard in New Orleans. For nearly 40 years, Sidney held this one job. He kept to himself for the most part and lived quietly.

Sidney is not a drinking man, never was. He’s been to the hospital twice, once for high blood pressure and the last time for food poisoning caused by pork; he hasn’t eaten pork since. Jail has never been offered the opportunity to host Sidney; as a matter of fact, he has only had one traffic ticket and will likely never have another, seeing he hasn’t driven a car in more than 25 years. Sidney is not a well-traveled man; early in his life, he made two bus trips to Atlanta and one to California. He reminisced that seeing Underground Atlanta was one of the most amazing events in his life.

Besides missing his home, he longs for a return to Pat O’Briens for one more dinner, his favorite. What he misses the most, though, is the music of New Orleans. Here in Phoenix, we have no buskers, also known as street musicians, and where music is performed, it is done so for money, of which Sidney has very little.

You see, on that day, Sidney was uprooted and left with nothing; through a glitch in the bureaucratic system, Sidney’s social security payments were interrupted. It has taken him five years to resolve the issues that stopped the checks. It is supposed to be next month when the money begins to flow again. Almost exactly five years ago today, Sidney tried staying with his daughter, but life alone and a house full of grandchildren left Sidney uncomfortable, and one day, he walked out.

Turns out that while Sidney was staying with his daughter and walking up and down Bell Road here in Phoenix, he ran into a homeless man with the name Floyd. I have seen Floyd many times over the years; even have a photo of him here on my blog, taken in May 2004. Floyd helped Sidney understand living on the street, which eased his transition from self-sufficiency in New Orleans to dependency on his daughter to ultimately being homeless himself. For the next three years, Sidney lived outdoors.

But Sidney is not your average homeless guy. At roughly 4:00 am he signs up at a Temporary Labor office to get a high spot on the list of people looking for any type of manual labor on offer. He normally knows by 6:00 if he’ll have work, but he might have to hang out until 11:00 am, too. From the efforts of his labor, he earns about $35 for the day. On good weeks, he might get three to five days of work.

On the days he can scrounge the money, he has found someone with a small apartment who lets him have a room for $10 a night, no money, no bed. The last time Sidney slept street side was about three months ago. His typical day, when not waiting on work or working, he walks Bell Road from Cave Creek Road to 40th Street and rarely wanders from this path. Along the way, he picks up aluminum cans and, from the generosity of some folks, picks up a few dollars that, if not required for a room, he’ll spend either at Denny’s or Whataburger.

If and when the social security mess is finally cleared up, he’ll take an apartment and try to return to a simple and quiet life. What is remarkable about this man, who was first homeless at age 64, is his gracious and friendly manner and his positive and grateful outlook. When I asked him if he had anything to be happy about, he told me the best thing in life was God waking him up every morning. I then asked him what the most important event, date, person, or historical occurrence he had seen since he was born was; his answer was, “The greatest thing I have come to see and know is that America is the greatest place on earth.” Sure is wonderful running into someone who is just happy being alive.

The Only Nice Sunset

Sunset in Phoenix, Arizona

My camera is with me often. I look far and wide for that scene that will demand my attention and stand out against all others. Maybe age has brought cynicism and I am no longer able to appreciate simple beauty. Or maybe a city of cinder block walls punctuated with strip malls leaves the imagination in deficit. Phoenix has become a wasteland to my eyes. I want to see the city I live in with a new perspective but over and over again I look on with mindless disinterest. For beauty, I must look up and out. With too narrow a view and in close up, Phoenix is a blight on a desert paved over for the masses to find their beauty in a three-bedroom two-car garage track home on the corner of Nameless Street and Faceless Road. At least we still have the sky.

Pho

Pho from local Vietnamese restaurant called Viet Kitchen on 20235 N Cave Creek Rd in Phoenix, Arizona

I normally don’t like posting photos of prepared meals as they don’t look very appealing to me. But I love photos of fresh food with all of its vibrant colors. As I sat down to a meal without Caroline (she was attending a user group meeting) this bowl of Pho from Viet Kitchen around the corner from us just looked beautiful in the late afternoon sun. I suppose this is in keeping with my appreciation of fresh food photos as most of what we see are the bean sprouts and cilantro sitting atop the steaming bowl of broth and noodles below.

Bagdad to Prescott

Caroline Wise and John Wise standing in front of the sign welcoming visitors to Bagdad, Arizona

Some years ago, Caroline and I were on a quest to see as much of Arizona as possible. In our attempt, we kept a map, and after each trip, we took a Sharpie and drew over the roads we had traveled. That map was ultimately nearly full from corner to corner and top to bottom of markings designating the path. And so it was that this year, we retired that map and started a new one where we are attempting to retravel all of those roads that stretch across our state. We have been to Bagdad twice before, but our current map wouldn’t be complete if didn’t visit small towns like this one all over again.

A rare rock duck indigenous to the Arizona desert

On the narrow winding road out of Bagdad towards Kirkland, the rolling desert landscape changes little from corner to corner. But as the elevation increases, we are noticing a gradual change from brown to green. Then, off in the distance, we spot a rare native to the Arizona desert: the elusive desert white Rock Duck. When they sit very still, they blend in with such great stealth that one could easily pass the Rock Duck and never notice it – well, we did.

Between Bagdad and Kirkland, Arizona somewhere in the low mountain desert

Leaving the town of Kirkland, which is actually little more than an intersection with one remaining business still functioning, called the Kirkland Bar & Steakhouse Hotel – on the National Historic Register! If Caroline hadn’t planned on meeting another fiber fanatic while in Prescott before 2:30, we would have stopped for a bite to eat in this historic building next time. Up the road, we went higher and higher.

The Skull Valley Garage in Skull Valley, Arizona

Not far from Prescott is Skull Valley. You go to Skull Valley just because the name is cool. Who cares what you do while in Skull Valley, that doesn’t matter as you are now in Skull Valley! Maybe it would be cooler to be in Nothing, but as Nothing is no longer anything, we must now satisfy ourselves with visits to Bloody Basin and Skull Valley!

A street side mural in Prescott, Arizona

There was actually a bigger purpose to this trip besides a map line; we needed to visit Prescott for a stop in Puttin’ On The Hats. For our trip down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, which is quickly approaching, we needed river hats. Something to shade us from the sun that wouldn’t be ruined after getting drenched. The hats would also require chin straps to prevent them from being dragged off our heads. With the best selection of hats in Arizona and us needing just about any excuse to take a road trip, it was easy to justify a circuitous 250-mile trip just to buy hats. Caroline took some time to meet with Rowena, who makes glass bead jewelry. Rowena recommended lunch at Pangea Bakery and for Caroline to dip her toe into A Good Yarn, where she could easily lose an arm and a leg, spending a small fortune on fiber. Wow, the discipline my wife had in only buying about 3 miles of weaving yarn. We drove back home at the end of the trip but not at the end of the day. Later that evening we attended an incredible performance of Rahim AlHaj, a world-renowned oud virtuoso, at the MIM.

Perseids Meteor Shower

The milky way and a small streak from a meteor just over the horizon during the 2010 perseids meteor shower as seen from Lake Pleasant in Phoenix, Arizona

At 11:00 p.m., we arrived near Lake Pleasant to watch the Perseids meteor shower while being attacked by a million large winged flying insects and swarms of mosquitoes. Our endurance paid off, and we saw approximately fifty or sixty meteors burning up in the atmosphere. Try as I might to capture the larger ones, it seemed my camera was always pointing in the wrong direction – even with my lens set wide at 10mm. By 1:30, I had enough smeared bug parts in my hair on my neck and arms that it was time to call it quits until November 17th, when the Leonids were to make an appearance. In this photo, if you click on it to open the larger image, you might see a tiny streak on the right of the Milky Way low on the horizon – a meteor!