Huun Huur Tu & Carmen Rizzo

Huun Huur Tu on stage at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

It’s 7:30 and from stage right, the door opens. Five men walk out, four of them are Tuvan the other American. The four Tuvans make up the throat singing group Huun Huur Tu. The American is Carmen Rizzo, he represents a whole new dimension to the more traditional and possibly ancient style of music. As a backdrop, a large screen flickers to life with looping abstract video images and a slow rhythmic beat from electronic instruments begins to pulse. The strings of the doshpuluur and the igil start to resonate.

Huun Huur Tu performing at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Then the voices begin their drone and whistle. The overtones of Tuvan throat singing bring goosebumps to this magical moment. We feel lucky to be able to witness a live performance of a type of music that stems from such a tiny place far, far away. This style of singing appears to have begun with shepherds in the area of Mongolia but can be heard in different styles from native peoples as close as the Inuit of northern Canada. Our previous encounter with throat singing was a performance of Tibetan monks years ago in Scottsdale.

Huun Huur Tu with Carmen Rizzo performing at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Tonight’s set was nearly evenly divided between the more traditional acoustic performances of the four members of Huun Huur Tu with and without the accompaniment of Carmen Rizzo. Both sides of the show were perfect; Carmen Rizzo took up his place behind the masters adding an epic soundtrack feel to the already dramatic sounds of this wonderful performance. A million thanks to the Musical Instrument Museum for bringing another great concert to Phoenix during a time of year that could typically be called “entertainment light”. Click here to watch and listen to Huun Huur Tu performing with Carmen Rizzo.

Thanks again to Jimmy C. Carrauthers of Great Leap Productions for his kind permission to use his photographs to accompany my blog entry.

The MIM

Musical instrument display from Bolivia featured at The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Two days after our first concert at The Musical Instrument Museum we took the better part of a Sunday afternoon to explore the museum itself. For $15 each we were soon outfitted with a headset, encouraged to take photos (without flash, of course), and to enjoy our visit. Your visit starts in a special exhibit before riding the escalator to the second floor where the grand self-guided tour begins. On our right, an entryway takes us to the musical heritage of Africa and the Middle East. It is up here that the headset becomes indispensable. As one moves toward the displays of regional instruments and video screens playing films of local musicians, the headset picks up the sounds. This is obviously going to take some time.

Boat Lutes on display at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

Next up Asia, across the hall Europe, next door to that, the Americas. Not all of the displays are finished, some are yet to begin. There is obviously some video still being prepared. The museum is a work in progress. A staff member tells us that the displays will change from time to time as they are in possession of more instruments than can be displayed. We try to go slow and look at each region, each country, each instrument, but it is soon apparent that we will not be able to take this all in over the course of one visit. The openness of the displays is amazing, nothing is behind glass; we are offered the chance to closely inspect what in some instances are quite well-worn and old musical instruments. Stopping at the Burmese display to learn about the instruments whose music has become familiar to us is fascinating. The size of the Gamelan instruments from Indonesia is unbelievable; we look forward to the return visit when the displays from India are more complete.

Costume on display at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

The videos help round out and explain musically what we are seeing. In some instances, clothing or tools are featured to lend atmosphere and a better sense of the context in which this instrument is used or how it came about. I especially enjoyed the exotic nature of the many instruments that are foreign to my eyes although not always a stranger to my ears.

Caroline holding a Burmese Harp at the Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona

The Musical Instrument Museum features a cafe with a nice selection of world-inspired dishes as you rest your feet between exhibit halls. Also on the ground floor is a hands-on try it, bang it, pluck it, yourself room where Caroline picked up this Burmese harp to sample what sounds emanated from its workings. I waited patiently for the kids to finish with the giant gong so I could have a whack and with a tap moved my ear close to enjoy the resonating sound. The MIM is open seven days a week and from what we understood, the displays should be complete within the next couple of months. Highly recommended.

Old Blind Dogs at The MIM

Three of the members of Old Blind Dogs who play traditional Scottish folk and Celtic music.

Good thing I was listening to NPR while a sponsor message came on, telling of a night of traditional Scottish folk music to be performed at the newest museum in the Phoenix area: The MIM. The band Old Blind Dogs were to take the stage on Friday night at the Musical Instrument Museum and so I finally headed over to the MIM’s website to look for tickets. WOW! Old Blind Dogs wasn’t the only act of interest to me but they were the first show I bought tickets for. Besides the occasional performer from India and the Laurie Anderson and Lou Reed performance a year ago, there has been little in the way of world or experimental music to be heard here in Arizona during the last three or four years. That is all about to change.

First off, Old Blind Dogs. They opened with Terror Time which may have been appropriate as we were their first audience on their U.S. tour. The drummer wasn’t on stage, he wasn’t even in America as he was tending to a medical emergency, but that didn’t distract from the performance. The truly great thing about this concert was that it took Caroline and me back to Europe where we would often stop to listen to buskers – ah, the good old days. The guys played just shy of two hours with a fifteen-minute intermission between the sets. The simplicity of the music and the expert musicianship made for a great night out, I would wish for more nights in the desert like this.

Luckily, I won’t have to wish too hard anymore. The Musical Instrument Museum on the corner of Tatum and Mayo Blvd just opened in late April, so I thought I had plenty of time before the museum got up to speed and started featuring artists or special exhibitions, but I was wrong. From over two dozen performances scheduled between now and the end of August, we chose six shows to attend; Tuvan throat singers Huun Huur Tu performing with electronic musician Carmen Rizzo, Japanese taiko drummers On Ensemble who are mixing traditional drumming with hip-hop rhythms, and a turntablist, we’ll stop in to see Etran Finatawa from Niger performing a kind of Nomad’s blues, kora musician Toumani Diabate performs in August, and the last show of the series for us will be oud master Rahim Alhaj. Click the links to watch a video of each act on YouTube.

There is a strict no photography and no cell phone or text messaging rule at the MIM but the house photographer Jimmy C. Carrauthers of Great Leap Productions was kind enough to send me the three photos above. I couldn’t choose one, so I posted them all. Thank you, Jimmy.

My Garlic

After nearly nine and a half months or the equivalent of the human gestation period the garlic I planted on Tonopah Rob’s farm back on September 21st was finally ready for picking. Seven and a half pounds of the Italian rose is coming home with me to dry outside for about a week before I bag it up and hang it on the back of our closet door so it can stay in a cool dark place. The trick will be to eat 54 heads of garlic before even one spoils, good thing we love garlic.

Canyonlands to Natural Bridges

Newspaper Rock on the way to The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Updated in 2022: On the previous day’s post I added an addendum while I’m opting to insert some photos I felt were missing from this post. As we headed into Canyonlands, we stopped at Newspaper Rock.

An old abandoned granary at Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Today is Memorial Day, the day we commemorate U.S. soldiers who died in military service. Standing at this abandoned granary in the Needles district of Canyonlands National Park, I can’t help but think that there is not a day set aside to recognize the Native Americans who died during their own military service to defend the lands they called home. If we can have a Martin Luther King Jr day, then I think we can just as easily have a National Day of Recognition for Native Americans.

Cryptobiotic soil in Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The earth I stand upon is actually a trail, and the park service would prefer that I remain on this trail. All around me is cryptobiotic soil. This fragile habitat is what holds the surface together and makes life for many species possible in this arid environment. If you click the picture above to open the larger image, you can see the detail of the cyanobacteria, mosses, and lichen – well, I can only guess that is what you can see because I’m not a biologist, but there is definitely some type of species making the soil its place of dwelling.

The trailhead of the Confluence Overlook Trail in Canyonlands National Park in Utah

We are on our way home today and only visiting the Needles district of Canyonlands National Park for a short time, figuring we shouldn’t be getting home too late. These rocks are at the end of a road where a trail begins that takes visitors out to the confluence overlook of the Colorado and Green rivers. As we were about to leave, we nodded and said hello to two ladies who were donning hiking boots and about to embark on the trail when we recognized them from our hike out to Horseshoe Canyon on Saturday. These ladies from Poland are easily in their mid-60s, if not just about 70, and are a grand inspiration in tackling this nearly 11-mile trail today.

Unidentified plant near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The end of the road was our destination and turnaround point. On the way back out of Canyonlands, the sun’s position in the sky allowed us to better appreciate the carpet of wildflowers stretching in all directions. So much for making good time up the road as we whipped out the macro lens and tried stopping for each species of flower we could spot – at 5 miles per hour. When what might be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity arises that gives you the chance to witness something so spectacular, you must take the time and disregard the potential discomfort or tiredness at a later time, lest you’d look back and feel foolish for hurrying along and missing out on greatness seldom seen.

Unidentified flower near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

Oh, more flowers, more than one could shake two sticks at. I could easily post 15 or more photos of the various types of blossoms that presented themselves roadside on this beautiful day. It took close to an hour to travel the 10 miles between the park exit and Newspaper Rock. Down on our knees or sitting on our butts, we lingered amongst the flowers, taking in their scents and colors. In a week, would they still be here to dazzle those visitors?

Panorama of landscape near Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The scenery out here on a spring day wants to stop the car on its own accord and forces us from our seats to spend a quiet, intimate moment with nature. At this rate, we’ll be home at midnight. When we were here four hours earlier, it was beautiful then, too, but now the light is absolutely perfect. This is one more of those occasions of finding yet another perfect place on earth, one that makes you think, “Hey, I could live here, and then I’d know how the view changes with the day, the season, and the weather.”

Stand of aspen trees near Monticello, Utah in the Manti-La Sal National Forest

We are not far from the main road when a paved road on the right appears to be a detour we haven’t taken before. County Road 136 says it leads to Monticello and so we take it. We begin to climb into the Manti-La Sal National Forest and mountain range. What a find, out of the desert and into the forest. The views from up here stretch for a hundred miles north. While the view was terrific to our eyes, the haze did nothing for the camera and the quality of the images I shot. So instead, I offer these aspen trees, and more specifically, I offer them to my daughter Jessica, who long ago told me that she loves aspen, and now when I see a stand of them, I think of her.

Deer roadside on County Road 101 west of Monticello, Utah

The road was hardly long enough; we could have easily stayed all day on this twisting section of pavement. A couple of patches of snow dotted the hillsides, soon to be gone with summer just around the next corner. More pullouts and some benches to sit for hours and gaze out over Canyonlands to the west, the La Sal mountains to the north, and Ute Mountain to the east over in Colorado would have been welcomed. What was the next best thing? A deer gazing at us. Next to the road at the edge of the forest, a staring contest was begun. Wait a minute, is that a lawn ornament? A silly place for one if it is, ok, it blinked and went back to foraging.

The Peace Tree Juice Cafe in Monticello, Utah

Out of the woods and into town. How is it that the little blip on the road of Monticello, Utah, has this awesome place called The Peace Tree Juice Cafe serving up some great all-natural, organic, fresh, diverse foods, and in Phoenix, we get Applebee’s? There are Peace Tree locations in Moab and Blanding as well; how did we miss stopping in at the Moab location? Drats.

Air Freshener from Torsten Kühne of Frankfurt, Germany

A friend of ours from Frankfurt, Germany, Torsten Kühne, had made a bunch of air fresheners as part of an art project to have people send him photos of the air freshener from around the world.

The trail to Sipapu natural bridge in Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah

A little further south, we arrive at our last stop of this trip, Natural Bridges National Monument. Caroline grabs the Junior Ranger booklet and we scoot to the trail as quickly as we can. This is our second visit to the park, but this particular trail was new for the two of us. We only went as far as the big overhang to view Sipapu Bridge as time was closing in us. The next one, Kachina Bridge we gazed at from the main paved trail. But the third bridge had to be seen from below.

Underneath the Owachomo bridge in Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah

Years ago, we took our picture under this very bridge, the Owachomo Bridge. Somehow, we hadn’t recognized back then that the trail continued under the bridge to where this photo was taken. Look under Owachomo; Caroline is standing there in a yellow shirt. I also learned today that there is a trail that loops for 8.6 miles from Sipapu to Kachina to Owachomo and back to the parking area at Sipapu – it seems like there is always something to come back to in the National Park system.

Caroline Wise getting her Junior Ranger Badge at Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

Back when Caroline started doing these Junior Ranger programs, little did we know how many she’d collect; adding this is part of our effort to identify the various places and the dates she got them.

Moki Dugway near Mexican Hat, Utah

We often wonder how many times we’ve been to places, and it was just this year when we were trying to figure out if we’d ever driven down the Moki Dugway or if we’d always driven up it. This photo answers that question, as from the series of images, we were obviously on our way down that way.

An empty sales stall at Monument Valley in Utah at sunset

It’s late now, and it no longer really matters how much more time is taken because we will be home somewhere in the middle of the night. So why not stop once more at the Mexican Hat Lodge and grab dinner? We did; I could not resist another swinging steak. We wolfed down dinner, trying to bask in the atmosphere for the brief visit, and were once again going south. As on our trip up north a few days prior, we are passing through Monument Valley again at sunset. The shops have closed up, the natives have gone home, no more jewelry for sale today.

Monument Valley, Arizona

Update in 2022: Why so many images were left out is a mystery to me; maybe I was thinking that we’d already shared too many images of those places.

Desert Details

Various plants, flowers, and dead old logs on the desert floor in Arches National Park in Utah

While traveling, I shoot a lot of photos, too many to post. Often, it is a chore trying to pick a few favorites that I will post with a short narrative about our journey. It can be too easy a choice to select those images with sweeping horizons, vast landscapes, and dramatic sunsets. But that can also give the impression that I miss the fine points. So today, I am showing the fine details and skipping the grandiose.

Desert plant life in Arches National Park in Utah

At sunrise on a holiday weekend, there is no waiting at the ranger booth to pay fees; two hours later, there will be over a hundred cars backed up with impatient families racing to collect an experience or two as they zoom over the road to a “hot” destination to snap a few photos and be on their way. Arches National Park this Memorial Day weekend will be plenty busy, but right now, it is all ours. The trail to Landscape Arch is quiet. All around us, spring has delivered an abundance of flowers and greenery. During the late summer and early fall, it is easy to look past the dead brush, crunchy weeds, and all of the other stuff that looks as though it was alive at the time the rocks that make up the park were still sand.

Flowering plant life in Arches National Park in Utah

To be distracted in thinking that Landscape Arch is ‘the’ thing to see is easy, and if you want to view just what the big attraction is, you can Google that, but I want to share with you what the average visitor appears to be missing. Look down at the ground, feel the fine, still cool, red sand, put your nose close to the flowers, and try to find their fragrance. There is a world of ever-changing desert life that fills in the spaces under the soaring skyline. First, you have to come to your senses that what is between your car and your idea of a destination is just as integral a part of the journey as the collection of trophies.

Flowers blooming in Arches National Park in Utah

A tiny flower is observed. How long will it live? What is its purpose? Should I have brought a book about the local flora so I might be wiser tomorrow for learning today the breadth of variety that exists in a landscape, so many people might see as barren? All around me, giant red sandstone rock begs for attention; I gladly give mine to those things below the radar screen.

A chipmunk eating breakfast in Arches National Park in Utah

Before leaving Arches we visit the now-open visitor center so Caroline can pick up a Junior Ranger guide. She whittles away like a chipmunk, trying to finish the exercises to earn her badge, and in no time, she is being sworn in. With so many people swarming into the park, we decide to leave early. This is not the first or second time we have visited Arches, and we drive over to the more subdued Dead Horse Point State Park.

A yellow Colorado Chipmunk posing at Dead Horse Point State Park in Utah

The rim trail is our hike of choice. The overlook of the Colorado River is truly stunning, but so is this yellow Colorado chipmunk. I don’t know about you, but I had never seen a chipmunk with yellow markings before – now that’s epic. For a couple of hours, we amble along the cliffside, taking our time to commune with lizards, study various cactus flowers, take in the intoxicating scent of cliff rose blossoms, and generally stay in amazement at the colorful state of the otherwise monochromatic desert.

Twisted bark of a tree at Canyonlands National Park Islands in the Sky sector in Utah

And now, over to Canyonlands and the Islands in the Sky district. The focus of this hike could loosely be considered to be the Upheaval Dome, and we sure are thrilled to see this natural anomaly about which scientists still aren’t sure how it was formed, but we are also just as happy to see how some terrific trail builders cut us a path over this difficult terrain so we can find our way over a primitive land with relative ease.

Little purple flowers in bloom at Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The day will end with dinner in Moab at Eddie McStiff’s and another visit to the local grocery for some fresh fruit and snacks for the next day. The town of Moab is stuffed to the gills with visitors on Memorial Day – the busiest day of the year for this mountain biking mecca. A torch-red strip of flaming clouds cut a diagonal across the light clouds before the sunset. Tired from a busy day of looking at small details, we head to our room to digest the rich diet of a million things our eyes ate over the course of a beautiful day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Arches National Park in Utah

Addendum: This post was missing all of these photos from what I’m calling an addendum. Why I only focused on the fauna and flora in close-up when I originally posted this is now beyond me. So here in the closing days of 2022, I’m rectifying these omissions to include images of where the photos above were taken. Obviously, our day started in Arches National Park.

Arches National Park in Utah

These thin fins, being all that remains of what was once solid rock surrounding them, just feel crazy that they’d still be standing while everything else simply eroded away.

Arches National Park in Utah

Delicate arch.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

After leaving Arches National Park, we headed over to Dead Horse Point State Park still near Moab, Utah.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

While Caroline works on her Junior Ranger booklet, I’m here with my new lizard friend, taking photos and hanging out.

Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

The view from Dead Horse Point of a gooseneck in the Colorado River.

Caroline Wise at Dead Horse Point State Park near Moab, Utah

Earning her Dead Horse Point badge and a Red Rock Ranger patch is another pivotal moment in Caroline’s life.

Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The Green River Overlook in the Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

Canyonlands National Park in Utah

The Grand View Point in Canyonlands.