Independence Day in Oregon – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving away from Phoenix, Arizona

Our Independence Day adventure started after picking Caroline up from work at 4:00 p.m., bags packed, cooler fully loaded, and gas in the tank. While we made our way northwest towards Wickenburg, we watched looming dark monsoon clouds building up and could not help wondering whether we’d miss a good rain in the valley while out on the road; this is usually how it works.

Nothing, Arizona

At Wickenburg, we turned north on Highway 93, which brought us to Nothing, Arizona, which is actually a little something. What exactly Nothing is remains unknown as we didn’t need gas and there was nothing we needed from the All Mart store. North of here, the road becomes known as the Joshua Tree Parkway of Arizona. We did get rained on a little near Wickieup, and a few times, lightning flashes were visible to the east, but no monsoons like the clouds earlier portended.

Sunset near the Arizona and Nevada border

We crossed the Colorado River into Nevada at Bullhead City but didn’t bother to stop in Laughlin, NV instead opting to enjoy the beautiful sunset we were driving into. As darkness fell, we turned off the road at Searchlight and started zigzagging back and forth over the Nevada/California state lines a bit until we finally reached Primm, Nevada.

Whiskey Pete's Casino in Primm, Nevada

Why would we go out of our way to visit this tiny speck on the map? Because we found out that Whiskey Pete’s Casino here has on display the bullet hole-ridden “death car” of Bonnie and Clyde! As it turned out, the car was relocated into the shopping mall connected to the Primm Valley Resort and Casino across the freeway. It used to be called the “Primadonna Resort” – “Primm-adonna”, get it? They did come to their senses at the end of the nineties, apparently, and renamed the place. On our way into the mall, we watched a bat circling just a few feet over our heads. spooky!!!

Bonnie and Clyde's bullet ridden car in Primm, Nevada

The old car is sitting in a glass box featuring a couple of showroom dummies dressed in period clothes sporting nasty-looking weaponry. Caroline rather liked “Bonnie’s” dress; it was red and black and very tasteful, while the “men” were wearing suits. It was kind of creepy to look at this vehicle where two people were practically executed.

Clyde Barrow's shirt he died in

In another display was the shirt that Clyde Barrow wore the day he was killed. An amazing fact is that he was a very small man; Caroline might barely fit into that shirt! There were a lot of additional items on display referring to Bonnie and Clyde here.

Not pictured is the armored car that belonged to Dutch Schultz, although his car looked a lot more snazzy than theirs. It seems their notoriety far surpasses his “more modest” claim to fame – he was “only” known as the “Bronx Beer Baron,” controlling the booze trade and numbers racket in the Bronx and surrounding areas in the 1920s. I can’t quite tell why the sign said “Dutch Schultz/Al Capone gangster car” – maybe Al snapped up the custom-built armored limousine after Dutch’s untimely demise? The car does sport some bulletholes but is otherwise flawlessly restored. Dutch, by the way, was shot in a bar in 1935 and kicked the bucket in a hospital soon after without ever revealing the perpetrators, thus inspiring William S. Burrough’s book “The Last Words of Dutch Schultz” (among others).

Buffalo Bill's Casino in Primm, Nevada

Primm Valley Resort also hosts “fun” events such as concerts by Eddie Money, Loverboy, and Survivor on the 4th of October. I guess the name “Survivor” says it all! Primm’s third casino, in addition to Whiskey Pete’s and Primm Valley, is Buffalo Bill’s, home of the “Desperado,” one of the world’s tallest and fastest roller coasters (at least at some point), which was not running when we arrived, lucky Caroline! Instead, we enjoyed Buffalo Bill’s neon marquee, surely one of the prettiest casino signs seen so far! But it was now 9:45 p.m. time to hit the road toward our hotel about 80 miles away in Pahrump, Nevada. Thirty minutes later, we passed a gun range offering submachine guns for passing tourists to come to shoot stuff up with. Still feeling gangster feverish, we would have stopped to give it a try, but business hours are only 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Where is a 24-hour machine gun range when you need it?

We arrived in Pahrump at about quarter to midnight and were happy to fall into bed.

Miami, Pima, Clifton in Arizona

Bullion Plaza School in Miami, Arizona

On the lookout for old buildings, peeling paint, and rusting junk, this was the theme of a solo trip east toward the New Mexico border today. This building was nearly left to decay before it was rescued to turn into a museum. The Bullion Plaza School opened back in 1923 as a grammar school and then, by 1994, was no longer safe, so it was closed. The museum that is housed here now has limited hours, so it’s better that you check their website before just showing up. To visit the newly christened Bullion Plaza Cultural Center & Museum, click the link on the left.

Miami, Arizona

Leaving Phoenix via Mesa, I passed through Superior and Globe before arriving here in Miami. This place is nearly a ghost town, or should be: not much left in the way of infrastructure, but a lot of potential for a nice old cozy town if people would make the investment. Then again, I say this about all the old towns I visit. Back in its heyday during the 1930s, about 7,500 people were living here with the local mine humming; today, the population is down to about 1,900 and shrinking.

Eastern Arizona Museum in Pima, Arizona

Further down the road, I’m stopping in at the Eastern Arizona Museum in Pima (originally called Smithville by its Mormon settlers) it’s one of the few towns on this stretch of Highway 60 that has been growing over the past 50 years!

Pima, Arizona

Oh, how I wish that someone would gut the old Pima theater built back in the 1930s and restore it. Caroline and I would certainly travel out this way for festivals and special screenings if we could make a full-fledged event with all the amenities of it.

Clifton, Arizona

So maybe if some of these buildings are beyond being repaired under sound financial terms, then build modern lofts in their place with the amenities that would make them desirable.

Clifton, Arizona

Clifton, Arizona, and its neighbor Morenci are the last towns on the Coronado Trail Scenic Byway going north before you enter the twisting 94-mile drive to Alpine, Arizona, which will likely take you about three hours to navigate. To say there are a lot of curves is an understatement. An interesting fact to keep in mind as you transition from desert to alpine terrain, you will go through as many “Life Zones” on this one road in Arizona compared to driving nearly any other from Mexico to Canada.

Clifton, Arizona

This feeling of being out West and walking the streets where people who lived here nearly 100 years ago would recognize most everything, though it would have greatly aged and fallen into decrepitude, is something I probably don’t experience often enough to sear the images into my mind. Maybe taking more photos will help?

Clifton, Arizona

Doesn’t look like this doorknob has been used more than a few times in the past 40 years.

Clifton, Arizona

The Velvet Ice Cream company is still in business 86 years after its founding. Oh, what I wouldn’t give to see what the shop looked like and to listen to the customers back when this freezer was new, and an ice cream treat was one of the great luxuries in life.

Clifton, Arizona

Sometimes, the train didn’t need to be a diesel giant to drag the ore out of the mine, and the old steam engine would do the trick.

Monument to Melvin Jones founder of the Lions Clubs from Fort Thomas, Arizona

On the way back, I stopped at Fort Thomas to check out this memorial. Turns out that Melvin Jones was born here in Fort Thomas, Arizona; he was the founder of the Lions Club, whose mission is to address the betterment of members’ communities and the world. And that’s how I spent my Thursday.

Highway 99 in Arizona

Winslow, Arizona

Took a drive up Highway 99 today to Winslow, Arizona. I found some lunch and then drove around town, checking out some of the older parts that were falling to ruin. This iconic “Standin’ on the Corner” spot in town used to be part of the main thoroughfare back when Route 66 sliced across America. Progress brought distress to a lot of the towns that were cut off as people sped by on Interstate 40.

Whiting Bros. Gas Station in Winslow, Arizona

Whiting Bros. Gas and Motels was a chain of small businesses here in the Southwest, with their first gas station popping up in St. Johns, Arizona, back in 1926. By the 1990s the Whiting company was essentially finished, though one gas station still retains the name over in Moriarty, New Mexico. Update: the building in this photo has since been demolished.

LZ Budget Motel in Winslow, Arizona

LZ Budget Motel was also once a Whiting Bros. property, but it changed hands over the years until finally, by the time I arrived here in 2002, the place was shuddered.

Winslow, Arizona

Due to America no longer being able to create jobs in areas outside our major cities, we are witnessing the total decay of our past. Instead of investing in infrastructure like broadband and giving investment incentives to entrepreneurs to open shop in places like Winslow, we are letting them crumble. Then again, we have failed to invest in our education system instead of opting to accept mediocrity so that even if tech jobs came to these parts employees would have to be imported. Update: most of these buildings have been demolished.

Highway 99 in Arizona

Hard to tell just how big this fire is, but one thing is obvious: it’s burning. I’m driving back down Highway 99.

Highway 99 in Arizona

These old classic cars are probably beyond repair and make me wonder if Winslow is effectively in the same condition.

Highway 99 in Arizona

It is seriously beautiful out on these open plains. Too bad others may not agree.

Our House

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

Ok, so it’s not a travel destination, well, unless we were coming back from a trip. Just thought I would post this here to show that in between all the travels, films, festivals, and other outings, we did have somewhere to return to for our brief moments in Arizona.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

The tragic thing about this place is that we rarely ever use the kitchen for more than making tea and occasionally baking something or other. We only on occasion use the dining room as we typically eat right at our computer, where we also entertain ourselves. The living room is only used when we have company over. We have a second bedroom, and it has been used, but mostly it’s empty, and we try to keep the air-conditioning vent closed. We have three bathrooms because why not?

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

Our bedroom is one of two places we love here, and while the bedroom is just that, we have a balcony that offers us a great view looking from the south to the west and the north.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

This is the other place we spend the majority of our time sitting right next to each other. The photo on my screen of Caroline was from our trip this past weekend to Los Angeles.

Condo of John and Caroline Wise in Scottsdale, Arizona

It’s bright, airy, and wide open, and while we like looking at it, it doesn’t feel lived in.

Andy the cat

Our cats (this is Andy) probably get more use of the place than we do as they roam all over the place. However, I think as long as they have one cozy place in the sun, they could lounge in and one dark corner each where they could hide, they’d be happy anywhere.

Los Angeles – Day 2

California Inn in Ontario, California

The motel we love to hate and hate to love: California Inn in Ontario. First and foremost, it is cheap. Second, it is close to where my father lives. Third, it seems the TV is nearly always tuned to their free porno channel when we turn it on. Other than the sketchy people who stay here (except us, of course) and the yelling, random beating on the door looking for someone we are not, the questionable cleanliness, and the dated rooms, we actually kind of really like this motel.

Caroline Wise at the San Gabriel Nursery in San Gabriel, California

This is the kind of vehicle Caroline is highly qualified to drive; it is exactly her speed. We came back to the San Gabriel Nursery this morning to pick up some plants we were looking at yesterday, seeing we’ll be driving back to Arizona this afternoon and don’t need to worry about them getting too hot in the car. Caroline packed up Salvia Divinorum, aromatic Cleveland sage (Salvia sp.), red tea hibiscus, chocolate mint, a tiny lavender, a plumeria cutting, and sweet woodruff.

The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

The next stop is the Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California. This used to be a private residence in the early 1900s but is now home to 150 acres of various themed gardens and several art galleries.

The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

Italian 17th-century statuary chilling in the California Sun.

The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

The Japanese Gardens also feature a Tea Room that was originally the gardener’s quarters in a small part of a garden house built for Mrs. Huntington. More than a few of the bonsai trees are priceless in their perfection and age, and due to that value, they are chained down to discourage theft.

The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

Like the statuary above, this giant red specimen of Dragonfly remained motionless as I was afforded the opportunity for a close approach to snap my photo.

The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

While we spent a few hours in the garden we weren’t able to visit the museum and library on this day, so we have to make a note to return. The other thing we should pay attention to is the progress of their Chinese Garden, which is intended to be the largest outside of China.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the The Huntington Library, Art Collection, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, California

Maybe we got a little too much sun?

After leaving the garden, we headed east, stopping for lunch at Mix Bowl Cafe. Today, we discovered the pleasures of Thai pearl iced tea, also known as boba tea, and fried morning glory in oyster sauce. The pearls in the tea are made of tapioca and have practically no flavor but are fun to slurp out of the cup with the help of the extra-wide straw. Add to our lunch some steamed Koo chai dumplings and an order of pad kee mow (spicy rice noodles with mint leaves and deep-fried tofu), and we were ready to go visit my father around the corner.

Unfortunately, we missed Diana, but chatted with my dad for a couple of hours before hitting the long road home shortly before 5:00 p.m. We managed to stop only once in California – at the Starbucks in Banning – reaching the Arizona state line before Sunset.