Not My Favorite Coffee Shop

Plasma donor at my least favorite coffee shop in Phoenix, Arizona

There’s a certain major-brand coffee shop down the street from us that I was happy to see opening since that meant that they’d be so much closer to where we live. Then the reality of their choice in location became apparent and now I can honestly say they could shut this one down and I’d be okay with that. You see, they opened on a corner in front of a mostly empty plaza with the other major tenant being a blood plasma donation center. Across the street on one corner is a school for those who couldn’t do traditional high school, a discount store, and an area of the parking lot is taken over by people waiting for a gig as day labor. On another corner is a title-loan store that preys on the poverty of the people in the area. The last corner is a battery store but next door to them is a fast food joint that takes EBT (a.k.a. food stamps).

Here’s the scenario that makes this coffee shop my least favorite: Young men (always men) with bad attitudes (damage from their ineffectual fathers) set up shop in groups of two and three and sell heroin (or opioid of choice) right from this well-known global brand. It most typically works with two guys in the shop and one outside. At some point, a person drives into the parking lot and the person sitting out front goes and gets into the car; they drive away. But these are junkies so they drive to the other side of a tire shop that has drive-through bays so you can see the car on the other side. They sit there for a few minutes and then the seller gets out of the car and walks back to the shop.

Back in the front of the place of the green aprons, one of the guys on the inside either heads out to sit down with the seller or he goes to the bathroom, and after a minute or so the guy outside joins him in the toilet. Five minutes later they emerge and the cycle repeats.

On the other hand, we have those who apparently have already been a member of one of these not-so-subtle circuses and are now a member of the blood plasma donation spot where they go earn about $40, depending on the needs of the market. The next stop, likely per the instructions of the vampires buying junky blood is to go hydrate at the coffee shop, but this is where the heroin is also easily available, wtf?

A bandage around the elbow, a large ice-water, and the blank stare at the phone with their head pulsing to the music is the way they roll.

It’s a shit-show here and this isn’t the only unfolding tragedy. This corner is a transit point for homeless people, the mentally disturbed, and a large number of the poor who cannot fathom paying $5 for a cup of coffee. It’s nearly impossible for me to find productivity at this location as I’m distracted by the cavalcade of personalities that in some way I’m enchanted with. I think that tomorrow I’ll return to the place where I can get things done.

Romania Fest 2019

One of the bands at Romania Fest 2019 in Phoenix, Arizona

It must be the season of the festival because here we are for the second week in a row hitting the circuit. Who are those pop stars rockin’ it onstage today? I can’t say but I can tell you that they are playing the hits, especially if you are a bit older and Romanian. The Romanian detail is important because that’s the clue to the theme of today’s event. The other detail I’m learning quickly about Serb Fest 2019 and Romania Fest 2019 is that these are fundraisers for the church that supports the community. With this bit of knowledge, our visits become more valuable to us as we know we are contributing to helping sustain a culture that remains important to a generation that grew up knowing these sights, sounds, and traditions.

Romanian Church in Phoenix, Arizona

The most obvious thing about not just this Romanian community but the Serbian too is that religion plays a large role and the number of people from these countries who live here in the Valley is still quite low, relatively speaking. (In comparison to the large Hindu population Phoenix has or the Hispanic community.) I have no way of knowing what the percentage is of people who come out but I’m guessing that the expense might limit participation to some degree. We easily spent $40 on each visit and that was just from buying entry and lunch.

Today’s food was a treat with Mititei being the first dish we sampled. These little sausages are nearly identical to the more well-known Serbo-Croatian sausage known as Cevapi or Cevapcici. Next on the menu were Sarmale or stuffed cabbage rolls with a side of sour cream. So far everything was pretty basic Slavic staples. The Romanian Fest 2019 culinary award however should go to the Ciorba de Burta. What is Ciorba de Burta you ask? It is tripe soup. Describing it simply as tripe soup would be a disservice because until you mix in the extra sour cream and more importantly the ramekin of garlic sauce with Romani power, the dish might be considered just okay. With the amount of garlic that we mixed into our large container of soup, we were enjoying the flavors of Romania for the next day and a half. We finished our visit with Caroline trying a Romanian beer for the first time as we sat and listened to some ladies singing traditional folk songs. Maybe you noticed we said nothing about chimney cake? Well they had those too but our festival allowance was now gone, a good thing as we really are trying to watch what we eat.

Old Heidelberg Bakery

Heidelberg Bakery in Phoenix Arizona

Every other week I make a trip to Old Heidelberg Bakery here in Phoenix, Arizona, for my wife. I am the responsible party for taking care of her addiction, that being German Coarse Rye Bread. Recently she started mixing things up by trying some whole-grain bread from a local Russian store but the taste of home is the rye bread. I’m also required to pick up a pretzel-croissant for her highness too as one cannot feel like a German Royal without the proper bread.

Now that the holidays are nearly upon us our local German importer starts getting in the sweet flavors of Christmas and Caroline is NOT immune from needing to resupply her blood with nutrients such as marzipan and lebkuchen that are as essential as potassium and vitamin C to other humans.

I shouldn’t forget to mention that this is where we buy the pickles that round out the finishing touch of scent that is unique to the smell of a German. Caroline has tried other pickles but they simply do not compare to the pickles from her native land. Old Heidelberg also carries her favorite sauerkraut, red cabbage, and damson plum products which rank high among Caroline’s most missed food items from the “Old Country”.

While we live in America, drive a Korean car, eat fruit from Mexico, use furniture from Sweden, and lightbulbs from China, there is only one place for bread, stollen, lebkuchen, and pickles: Deutschland. Now let’s listen to some Rammstein.

Serb Fest 2019

Serb Fest 2019 in Phoenix, Arizona

We’ve gotten rusty about attending festivals but lucky for us Caroline was aware of Serb Fest 2019 and reminded me before we missed this one too. The Serbian community appears to be relatively small based on the number of attendees, then again it’s Sunday and the get-together started yesterday. One might be inclined to think that an event celebrating Slavic culture would draw in the Croatians and Bosniaks (and other South Slavs) too, and maybe it did. Hard to say seeing there really is no difference as long as they wear modern fashions, but the folks wearing t-shirts saying “I love Serbian Boys” or “Proud to be Serbian” were probably just that – Serbs.

The food was okay though the lamb and pork combo I was looking forward to was sold out and we had to go with the old standby ćevapčići. With a beer in hand, we sat awhile at a smaller tent and enjoyed a local folk band and then over to the larger covered area to watch some dancing which is also where we heard a song that the two of us liked. It is called “Gori More” and if you follow this link to Youtube you can take a listen.

Serbian Church in Phoenix Arizona

Our big surprise and highlight that made it all worthwhile was the beautiful interior of the Serbian Orthodox Church of St. Sava. This place is beautiful. Hopefully, we’ll hear about Serb Fest 2020 in time next year to attend and the community will have grown. Btw, we just learned that Romanian Fest 2019 is coming up next weekend at the Romanian Orthodox Church in Glendale, Arizona.

The Need To Get Out

Coffee at Los Hermanos Mexican Restaurant in Superior, Arizona

This morning, I’m out on the road for a solo trip southeast, with my first stop happening in the old mining town of Superior, Arizona. Driving down Main Street I was surprised to see that, after years of threatening to reopen, the Historic Hotel Magma is once again in business. Caroline and I first learned of the town and the hotel from the Oliver Stone film titled U-Turn, featuring (among others) Joaquin Phoenix, which was our introduction to this actor. I stopped in at the Los Hermanos Mexican Restaurant for some coffee and to take these notes. From here, I’m going south through Ray, Kearny, and Winkleman before turning northeast to circle up through Christmas and then Globe, Miami, and Top-of-the-World, which will lead me into Superior once more today before going home.

Picketpost Mountain in Superior, Arizona

While the roads have been taken before, and this could be considered an indulgence of nostalgia, I have little choice if I want to wander into nature for a day trip. After 24 years in the Desert Southwest, Caroline and I have traversed almost every paved road and many a dirt road throughout this region. My goal is more to stop in cafes to have a cup of coffee and simply get away from my routine in Phoenix. Maybe along the way, I’ll find something to eat or, as I have my camera with me, a landscape might encourage me to capture an image I’ve not seen before.

I can’t remember visiting Ray before, but if I did, it is mostly or totally gone. Seems like a mountain’s worth of earth was moved from where it originally was to another location as the mine out this way is still active. I had to pull over nearly a dozen times in order to maintain the pace that allowed everyone else traveling the same road to pass me. The saguaros look over the road just as they have for decades, but I don’t recognize one of them. They stand there silently, never moving, not even swaying in the wind, just waiting and bearing witness to our coming and going. A dead javelina was proof of its failure to cross the road, and as not a chicken was seen, I can only surmise they, on the other hand, were successful in their attempts.

Here in Kearny, it’s nearly as quiet as the javelina was still. I’m on the main thoroughfare that is considered the business district, but that’s playing fast and loose with semantics. Taking a break, sitting next to the road in the shade at a rusty old picnic table, it’s striking how much I take my luxury for granted. I’m 101 miles from home, and if I lived here, I might as well have been at the opposite end of the universe. The economy of Kearny is obviously hanging on by a thread. There’s a tiny grocery store behind the gas station on my left; Cosmic Coffee is long shuttered. There’s a burger joint and pizza place that is still operating and hopefully will continue to do so, as there’s really nothing else left.

What there are are mountains all around me, and on those brown cliffs and peaks are cacti. At night, I’d imagine one might hear the occasional truck heading down the road or a coyote in the distance, but that would be about it. On moonless nights, the Milky Way must shine like the beacon it is to those who are so lucky to have dark skies.

There’s a surprising amount of foot traffic here near the grocery store. One group of people told me it was “Asian Day” at the deli counter, so they picked up lunch and were off for a picnic. A UPS truck passed by as a reminder that the global market is just a mouse click away, and while it might take an extra day to reach Kearny, Himalayan salt, expensive German cutlery, Adidas sweatpants, and a new Fitbit would reach me exactly as it would over in Phoenix.

Hayden, Arizona

Despair follows the road south. The economy along the way is fucked, and with the mines being the major employer, the strikers every so many miles suggest things are even worse than my vulgar description for those trying to hold on to the hope of having a job. We first passed through this part of Arizona 17 years ago, and the decay obviously runs away unabated as I follow a path I’ve traveled on more since that first occasion.

Giorsetti's Superior Grocery in Winkelman, Arizona

I’m getting lunch at Maria’s Mexican Restaurant, and even if I wanted something else, there are no other choices down here. I drove by Giorsetti’s General Store and was pleasantly surprised to see that it was still open. Not so lucky were the dead javelinas as I spotted two more adults and two juveniles, though none of them were close enough to one another to suggest they were related, well, besides their unfortunate circumstances. Also found dead on the road was a large bloated deer with an obviously broken neck, a not-so-smelly skunk, and some unidentifiable fur patches that were nearly fully merged with the pavement.

So here I am, full of carne asada with beans, at the end of Highway 177, about to head northeast on Highway 77, which will lead me past Christmas. Earlier, I wrote that I was passing through that town, but now I see that the half-dozen or so homes up the mountain that are in Christmas are, in fact, well up a dirt road I won’t be traveling on today. In my head, I’m flipping the coin of taking the road less traveled with a long drive home or returning the way I came, but know that I must take the quieter path.

Gila River at the Christmas Recreation Site in Winkelman, Arizona

My heart is on its way home, though my desire to remain in roaming mode is still wanting to rule the day. A stop along the Gila River and a pitstop in Globe were all that I was going to get in before pulling into North Scottsdale to pick up Caroline.

Neighbor

Neighbor's apartment in Phoenix, Arizona

She was cantankerous, vulgar, angry, fearful, paranoid, and worst of all she was mean to her mother who suffers from Alzheimer’s. Her name isn’t important. I tried to avoid her when she was coming and going as it wasn’t beyond her to show you her ass that was barely covered anyway, but when that short dress was thrown up to expose her voluminous backside, allowing the viewer to gather a good look, she would also yell at you to ensure she had your attention. Sometimes she went through the motions of pretending to call the police and other times she did call them to vent her spleen that some kind of transgression against her dignity was being committed.

Numerous times the maintenance guys were summoned to her place as it seemed that something was always broken; now that I’ve been inside her now-vacant apartment I see why things were likely malfunctioning. She was the human embodiment of malfunction. Stepping into the explosion that had been a home for two old ladies was akin to walking into someone else’s insanity. This is one of those moments where no amount of photography can convey the mayhem.

Neighbor's apartment in Phoenix, Arizona

Half a dozen cats and nearly twice that number of small dogs were constant companions. Some years ago the mother would take the dogs out when there were just a few of them, but her daughter became mistrustful of the neighbors who would take the time to talk with the sweet old lady who would check her mail 10 times a day wearing a housecoat and at least a couple of pairs of socks. We all knew she was slipping into dementia but she always seemed happy to meet you for the first time and find it surprising that you knew her name and that she once lived in Ohio. For the past few years, mom would only be seen going to and from the car and had become progressively more withdrawn.

This weekend they had mostly finished moving out, leaving behind a shell of an apartment sodden with animal urine and feces – both animal and human, as there were two large green bags in the bathtub filled with adult diapers. At least the human poop was in diapers and bagged up while dog and cat shit is scattered throughout the place. Entering this place I was more intrigued by the sight and foul aroma than the thought of what parasites and bed bugs might be crawling through the ooze and so with the front door wide open I decided to take a non-guided tour into the horror of my own disbelief that fellow humans could live such an existence.

I have to wonder why the animals weren’t removed by some authority looking out for the welfare of animals. Writ larger than that is my curiosity boggling my mind why the mother wasn’t removed and the daughter brought up on elder abuse charges. I suppose that living like turds in a litter box is a better way to keep people than for the state to attempt to care about the welfare of some people who obviously could not care for themselves.

There was a side of me crawling out of my inner 14-year-old that wanted to gloat that the evil persona of the daughter had finally been forced to move even though it portended possibly worse conditions for the mom and then there’s the 56-year side of me that is rattled by society’s neglect of the mentally disturbed. On their last day at our complex, the daughter sounded perfectly humane and sympathetic as she told me that they were moving out and that she wanted to say bye. How could I not feel empathy for their plight and wish them all the best?