Celebrating World Food Culture

Rau Ram

The dark side of America’s cultural seclusion can be abated by the exploration of the internet and especially YouTube if one can figure out what to search for. On one hand, we live sad, tragic, and isolated lives cut off from most cultural influences aside from some benign facsimiles of authenticity. On the other, there are many people around the globe sharing unfiltered looks into crafts, foods, places, and customs that mainstream media has failed to cover except when they can be used for sensationalist and or propagandist purposes.

Take food: ethnic cuisines, as they are prepared outside of America, have mostly remained a mystery. For example, search for fried rice, and you’ll be hard-pressed to see anything that resembles the real thing as it’s eaten in Asia, but how would you know that if all the recipe sites, cooking shows, and local restaurants are only offering a type of dish that was designed for the American palate?

Food Ranger

Somewhere between watching synthesizer videos and Russian car crash dash-cams, I must have seen a YouTube recommendation for a travel show from this guy named Harald Baldr. Through his travel exploits, I ran into the work of his friend “Bald and Bankrupt.” Maybe because I was binge-watching these guys traveling across India, Russia, Chechnya, and Belarus, I saw a recommended video in the sidebar for The Food Ranger, and something about it caught my eye. For the next weeks, I drove Caroline crazy with its host, Trevor James, and his particularly enthusiastic intonation of “Going Deep” into the local cuisine of wherever it is he happens to be.

What I was seeing from Trevor, aka the Food Ranger, were deep dives into street food across Asia with equal treatment for non-Western dishes surrounding various organ meats. Knowing he was fearless trying new foods and wasn’t squeamish in the slightest about any of it was a large part of the appeal. While YouTube was busy trying to get me to tune in to various other cooking shows of all the big American names, I was hooked on exploring a side of Asian food totally unknown to me.

Laphet Thoke or Green Tea Salad from Burma

Sure, Caroline and I had first tried pig ears, durian, and pork bungs (pig rectum and large intestine) more than a dozen years ago, and we were exposed to Indian home cooking years before that. I’d tried Ethiopian food while still living in Germany and had my first taste of Chicken Korma in Vienna before I’d met Caroline. What we didn’t realize was the breadth of culinary options and how often much of what is passed off as Chinese, Italian, Thai, and Mexican foods are seriously boring and far from their ethnic roots. Even when I learned how to make my own Lahpet Thoke (Burmese tea leaf salad – pictured), finding the ingredients in 2008 was nearly impossible. So difficult, as a matter of fact, that we had to travel to Los Angeles to pick them up as the online place in the U.K. wasn’t shipping the stuff to America.

While we were culinarily curious, there were no guides for shopping at our local Asian stores, and back before the days of YouTube or even in its early days, there was no reference to see how someone might be using Zao Lajiao, and that’s if you could even find fermented chili sauce in America. The worlds of authentic Asian, African, and Middle Eastern foods remained largely mysterious and hidden.

Best Ever Food Review Show

Today, that is no longer true. After the Food Ranger, I finally gave in to another recommendation of this guy named Sonny with his food show, also based in Asia, called Best Ever Food Review Show. I was reluctant at first as I felt that Trevor was blazing the trail and how could Sonny do any better; well, I was wrong because the Best Ever Food Review Show was living up to its name. What I didn’t know was that Mark Wiens was actually the trailblazer of food reviews in Asia, having started his channel back in 2009. What united these three reviewers was their serious interest in exploring the flavors of the places they were visiting instead of presenting their content as an example of shocking their audience with food challenges that might put off others who’d be open-minded enough to try a new cuisine.

Learning about food is only a small part of getting to the point of trying it, especially if you aren’t ready to jet off to a far away destination for the sake of eating local delicacies. Next up were the people who could bring us into the actual recipes, and this is where Maangchi, Chinese Cooking Demystified, Seonkyoung Longest, Refika, Yaman Agarwal, and even Townsends have been paving the way to inspiring millions of people from around our planet. But even with guides to help show us how to make these dishes, we still need ingredients that are not always easy to find.

Noodles and Tofu

Amazon is one source for some ingredients, but local ethnic grocery stores are essential for many of the fresh foods that are required, and they sadly are not very ubiquitous across America. Even when we find a local Filipino or Middle East grocery, the inconsistent quality and visual appeal of these small stores might turn some people away. Other online sources can be helpful, but then again, you must first know what it is you are looking for, and while you may want to buy hing powder if the vendor knows it as Asafoetida and has it listed as such, you may never connect the dots to buy what you need.

Posharp Store

The better cooking shows offer alternatives when they know particular ingredients will be hard to find for people in North and South America, along with Europe. Just today, I was able to find a single online source at The Mala Market for Er Jing Tiao and Facing Heaven chilies for making Ciba chili paste, but had I not found those, it was recommended I try cayenne and Thai bird’s eye. Another recipe I’m interested in calls for Duolajiao, preferably from Tantan Xiang, but it’s acknowledged that this is likely impossible to find outside of China, so an alternative was offered but with a lot of vigilance, I found that the PosharpStore in Massachusetts carries it, wish I’d known I would be buying this when back in August I bought Shaoxing rice wine from the same company. The point is that there are ways to get very close to authentic flavors, but you must be persistent in trying to source the ingredients.

Laotai Arui

Enter Liziqi, Laotai Arui, Dianxi Xiaoge, and WocomoCook, who are inspiring followers with their style of traditional cooking methods where we are viewing the gardens, tools, and environment where these foods are being made. There’s little attention given to the recipes and often there is little spoken, but the slow nature of bringing food into becoming a meal is an art unto itself. Now I find myself wanting a slab of tree trunk for my next cutting board; I’ve already bought a Chinese cleaver and have a Korean butane stove on the way so I can stop trying to use a wok on an electric stove.

Bring all of this together and add a generation of people from around the globe who are being inspired to move outside the bland versions of cuisine that hardly resemble its origins, and I find a new view of what ethnic dishes are being born. American renditions of German, French, Chinese, Korean, Thai, and Japanese foods are nothing short of sad atrocities using a set of homogeneous ingredients that have no variations from coast to coast here in the United States. Fortunately, there are still ethnic restaurants that won’t attract many Westerners anyway and so they have no choice but to maintain authenticity in order to be appealing to recent immigrants from those countries. As time goes on, I’d like to imagine that more people will be inspired by and start demanding these foods that, while exotic today, could become commonplace in the future.

Does anybody have some good tips on Icelandic, Iranian, Peruvian, Namibian, and Russian cuisines on YouTube? I’m also searching for Portuguese, Scandinavian, and Guinean streamers. By the way, as I was finishing up this blog entry, Caroline and I came across canned mutton at a local Vietnamese grocery and found a recipe from Guyana that we’ll be trying in the coming weeks. Another benefit of living in the age we are in.

** Notenot 10 minutes after this was published, I stumbled upon The Lime Tree on YouTube. My wish for Persian cooking examples has been found with this person yet another example of the influence Liziqi is having on cultural content surrounding food. I still need a person who walks me through the specifics of the popular recipes found in Iran.

Beans – Cuban Rice & Beans

Cuban Rice and Beans

This was not what we were expecting as our first experience with the Cuban staple of rice & beans. While we enjoyed the subtle flavors of the dish, the consistency was similar to a porridge or congee. This certainly demands that we explore other recipes for the same dish as we feel there must be other substantially different variations of the ubiquitous meal. My version was a bit soupy as I never cross-referenced a photo to compare what I was cooking and the recipe was found over a month ago, so I had no recollection of what it was supposed to look like. No matter, the essential flavors were there but while writing this I checked on other preparations of Cuban rice & beans and I was pretty much in line with the first half-dozen recipes I looked at. Some recipes call for a splash of apple cider vinegar, many suggest adding some cilantro but one, in particular, suggested serving this with braised pork with mojo sauce, another Cuban favorite. This was the 10th bean dish in my Beanistan series.

Beans – Porotos Granados

Porotos Granados

How much beautiful food photography is actually found in the dishes and setting? Every time I take these close-ups of meals I’m making there’s something not exactly appealing about them. Just as I’m writing this I figured it out. When we are traveling and I take extreme close-ups of our faces when we are at some beautiful location, you’ll only see the pores and blemishes of my skin, not the ocean, forest, or mountains around me or Caroline next to me. We gain the context of being at an iconic place when we see the bigger picture. When ingredients are photographed as a bunch of elements of a recipe it is not a dish of food, it must be contextualized with the props that we associate with how we’ll approach the dish when we eat it. This feels so obvious now that I’ve wondered about it for a second but the first photo I took of my porotos Granados looked horrible.

Porotos Granados is a bean dish from Chile. The main ingredients are cranberry beans, butternut squash, fresh corn, tomato, onion, garlic, and marjoram. This is our 9th bean dish since I announced our culinary journey to Beanistan back on June 23rd and with 29 varieties of beans still in our pantry, we are far from completing our travels into the world of beans. I can’t tell you how these turned out as I only scooped a small portion from the crockpot for the sake of taking this photo. They remain simmering until dinner time. Then, before you know it, the late afternoon rolls around and those lamb chops that have been marinating all day in rosemary, garlic, lemon rind, and olive oil are on their way to the grill. Paired with the beans we are once again astonished at our good fortune to be eating so well, staying healthy, and enjoying our time.

Bean verdict? These are brilliant and will certainly be on our menu plan again in the future. Caroline is thinking they’d also be nice with some andouille sausage while I was thinking maybe some Filipino longganisa.

Going to Teaville

Box of tea from The Whistling Kettle

In the ongoing adventure travels of John and Caroline Wise, we are heading out on an Asian journey to Teaville with a chance of taking in Kiambu or Thika over in Kenya. Our exotic voyage from the United States of Plague where we travel without moving to bring the outside world to us will begin with a visit to Golden Yunnan. This black tea originating from China comes to us via The Whistling Kettle in Troy, New York. I presented Caroline with a box of 23 sample packs of teas I was interested in trying and, reaching in blindfolded, she pulled out Golden Yunnan.

On average our tea samples cost $3.65 with the added expense of needing a couple of boxes of their branded tea bags. These drawstring bags that hold enough tea to make 30 ounces at a time were only $8.99 for a box of 100 so our bargain adventure to Teaville will only cost about $1.92 a bottle. I say bottle because we’ll be making iced tea with our samples, which are split in half to make two bottles worth. Just so you know, the sample packs make between 4 and 6 cups of hot tea according to The Whistling Kettle, but it’s summer in the desert so we’ll stick with iced tea. Water cost is inconsequential as we use tap water, so that’s it. Oh, and because our order was greater than $50 shipping was free.

I won’t be attempting to share the subtleties of each tea we try as I’ve never enjoyed the way in which wine is reviewed with language that waxes about frothy hints of periwinkle mingling with sublime notes of Korean gochugaru and undercurrents of Oaxacan chapuline. Nor will you be seeing daily blog entries for my ratings. I might post a weekly update of how the previous 5-7 days of tea travels went, but I make no promises. While I started this blog entry in the morning when I was setting up our first bottle, it is mid-afternoon as I finally get around to taking a photo of the box the samples arrived in. So, as the tea has been steeping at least six hours, I’ll go ahead and try it and offer my fellow intrepid travelers a hint of where Golden Yunnan takes us.

Well, what can I say, it tastes like a very nice smooth black tea and there’s a subtle sweetness to it. I should add that it didn’t bring us even slightly close to Bitter Town or drop us off at the epicenter of Geldverschwendung in Germany. This is one of the two most expensive teas that The Whistling Kettle sells and rightfully so after you read their description:

Few teas produced in the world make the Royal grade and we are proud to offer this tea. Many factors are involved in giving this tea its wonderfully complex flavor. Consisting mainly of high-quality buds that are painstakingly handpicked, these tender, young leaves are covered with fine down. The leaves are then sun withered and placed into a temperature-controlled ‘fermentation room’ that is around 80 F with 85% humidity, to undergo a unique process called ‘pile fermentation’. Small amounts of water is sprayed onto the leaves, then covered with heavy hemp fabric, to help trap the heat inside. Pile height, pile temperature, and method of piling are under constant supervision. This sauna-like environment starts the fermentation process, which eventually causes the buds to turn gold, rather than black. The water content vs. dryness and temperature of the leaves are also constantly monitored, as the success of this process will determine its golden color. Every couple of hours, the leaves need to be turned over, with special care taken not to break the tips of the buds. Thus, no shovels or machinery are used…they do it all by hand…for forty days! This labor-intensive process, along with the quality of the buds, is what makes this artisanal tea truly unique.

Laugenbrezel

Laugenbrezel aka German Soft Pretzel

Caroline donned her baking hat again and this time made us some soft German pretzels known as Laugenbrezel. Her flour of choice was spelt chosen from the long list of flours we now have on hand. Which flours you ask? Rye meal, organic bread, artisan, pumpernickel, dark rye, white spelt, whole grain spelt, whole wheat, almond, paleo, coconut, and we also have rye chops though they don’t count as flour. These pretzels turned out so good that she floated the idea of making donuts. Personally, I think this is a horrible idea as I’d likely eat some kind of majority of them before they ever cooled to much below 175 degrees each. I can’t speak with authority what makes these particular pretzels soft German ones but Caroline did boil them in water with a good amount of baking soda, so maybe that’s it? [I used a German recipe, so that would be another reason – Caroline] Extra thanks to the folks at Jacobsen Salt Company out at Netarts Bay, Oregon for the salt that dusts our pretzels.

Beans – Kimchi Sundubu-jjigae

Kimchi Sundubu

In our ongoing travels while at home, we are visiting Korea tonight via our kitchen. About a month ago I made our very first sundubu after following a recipe to make a batch of sundubu paste. I wasn’t sure we’d like it so I didn’t bother to photograph our boiling cauldron of Korean tofu stew. Turns out we loved that first attempt with mushrooms and clams and so I researched other recipes. While the paste came from the Youtube couple known as Future Neighbor, it was Maangchi (also on Youtube) that helped us turn up the skills and flavors tonight. If you are wondering why this blog entry is listed under the bean category, well you have to remember that tofu is made from soybeans!

We already had our supply of sundubu paste in the freezer and ready to go but from Maangchi (4.8 million subscribers, the woman is popular) I learned that we could enhance our Korean cooking skills by using myeolchi dasima yuksu instead of water. What that translates to is anchovy kelp stock. A visit a few weeks ago to our local Korean store called Seoul Market over on 43rd Avenue allowed us to pick up the ingredients we’d never find at Safeway. We needed dried anchovies, Korean radish, and dasima which is dried sea kelp. Getting across to the Korean owner what I was looking for regarding the dasima was a bit of an effort but he finally realized what I was trying to say and took us to its secret location on the bottom of a shelf. The stock is straightforward to make after removing the heads and guts of the dried fish and adding sliced radish and a large piece of kelp. Thirty minutes later I had a pale yellow fishy stock and was ready to make our stew.

A half-cup of stock, a couple of tablespoons of sundubu paste, half a cup of chopped kimchi, and some silken tofu came to a boil before I cracked an egg on top, and in no time we were seriously enjoying an amazing bowl of kimchi sundubu-jjigae.

Neither Caroline nor I grew up eating these kinds of foods and typically we’ve relied on Korean restaurants in Los Angeles or on rare occasions the only reasonable one here in the Phoenix area [Hodori in Mesa – Caroline]. With the great fortune of having people from around the world sharing skills via Youtube and the Internet in general, we are able to bring the cuisine of other cultures right into our home. I’d like to make the distinction that I’m looking for authenticity, not Americanized versions inspired by the idea of what another culture eats. It’s been rare for us to find real Italian food in America, Chinese cooking is only available rarely in cities like San Francisco, Burmese might be featured in five restaurants across our country but they need not cater its flavors for us as Americans typically don’t search it out. Caroline being German and I having an appreciation for the food have never found a great German restaurant in America as we sampled places from Maine to Oregon. The irony is that most of the ingredients to make ethnic foods close to how they are experienced in the countries of origin are available here in the United States. The trouble is that our palates are not very sophisticated on the whole and many people recoil at the foods they are unfamiliar with, so we get pasta with marinara sauce, orange chicken, and burritos with rice and a safe meat instead of tongue or udder.

Adaptability and the desire to stretch out regarding our expectations should be nurtured as there is treasure to be found in new experiences.

Beans – Black-Eyed and Other Stuff

Black Eyed Beans

A last-minute change in bean-plan was needed when an emergency use case scenario came up regarding a package of bacon taken from the freezer. Sadly this bean entry cannot just be about beans as extenuating circumstances have intruded into our fantasy travels.

On Thursday, while out shopping at Whole Foods for those scotch bonnet peppers I could not find, I decided I needed something from Costco so I visited our local store. I noticed something strange in that there were no canned veggies available. While that wasn’t out of the ordinary two months ago, things had really started normalizing. Limits on buying meat and eggs had been lifted, toilet paper is always available now, frozen pizza is again on hand, things seemed okay. At first, I didn’t think much of it but then even later in the day, I headed over to another popular grocery store called Fry’s, part of the Kroger chain. Uh oh, the canned veggies and pasta sauce aisles have been ransacked again. I asked a couple of clerks about it and they were curious about what’s triggering hoarding again with one of them wondering out loud why all the Gatorade had been cleaned out.

The best I can tell is that people are talking about another lock-down (not that Caroline and I have left ours yet); I guess others are anticipating food shortages again. This sucks as we were starting to make serious headway into clearing out foodstuffs and making space in our over-packed cabinets. Not anymore, as Thursday into Friday were spent prowling our various suppliers to replenish particular items, starting with our freezer. I removed a hunk of beef to make pot roast, some filets for raclette, and a package of bacon. The bacon by Saturday morning was fully thawed and once it’s opened I want it all used within a week as I feel the flavor starts to weaken at about that time. So instead of our Cuban dish planned for tomorrow, I started a crockpot of black-eyed beans because my recipe calls for bacon.

Back to hoarding. In February and March, I stocked us up well, really well. By the time food runs were happening here in Arizona I was able to act as an observer instead of a competitor. This time I feel I was almost caught off guard so I needed to move fast. At Costco a second time this week, I now picked up a bunch of meat that I could stuff into our very organized freezer. Between two different Fry’s I was able to snag the last 7 bottles of Rao’s Arrabbiata Sauce, some canned corn, and more quinoa and lentil pasta that we just tried for the first time this week and really enjoyed. Silk Soy Milk with the long shelf-life has been gone from our local stores for a couple of months now but I can order it by the case from Walmart. That’s just what I did last night when I ordered another 3 cases for delivery which will bring our stash to a total of 46 quarts, 11.5 gallons, or 44 liters and that should last nearly a year. Through Amazon, I bought more oat groats, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, hemp hearts, and flaxseed to make sure I have enough of those ingredients to compliment the 20 pounds of oatmeal I have atop our cabinets. This is of course for making granola that is eaten for breakfast 5 days a week. I’ll also need to place an order for Walnuts again as we are down to our last four pounds of them, we’re good on almonds with 11 pounds in stock. Good thing I recently bought another 12 pounds of our favorite eucalyptus honey.

Guesstimating to some degree and calculating based on our very accurate inventory of 438 line items I’d say we have a solid 120-day supply of food here at home. When I look into our cabinets there is an element of groaning as it feels like it’ll take forever to go through everything and I dread the idea that any of it should spoil before we use it.

Why am I worried about food scarcity? Our country is failing on a grand scale in managing the COVID-19 pandemic with our very own Governor Doug Ducey indirectly and directly responsible for the death of over 2,000 people in Arizona through his negligence, influenced on some level by being a sycophant of our troubled President. We were the last state to shut down and one of the first to reopen. With 3,000 to 4,000 new cases per day now in Arizona where many survivors will have lifelong breathing and/or mental problems along with the 50-90 a day who are dying combined with the potential social unrest from continuing police killings, a rush to kill teachers and parents by forcing children back to school, and an economy that will at some point have to reckon with the massive unserviceable debts, I become nervous about the chances for violent upheaval. Should we start to see 10,000 new cases a day or more, we could be in a situation where fully half the population of Arizona in the next year will have been infected and at the current mortality rates, we’d see between 73,000 to 140,000 dead just in Arizona. To put this in perspective that’s nearly the equivalent of a 9/11 type event almost every week right here in the state we call home. At that point, I’ll not want to go out for anything at all.

So, the beans. In our ongoing effort to not throw away any of the food we’ve purchased, we pay attention to “use-by” dates and consider the freshness of perishables. To the extent it’s possible, we move around the menu plan and try to see a few weeks out what we’ll be eating. Rice and beans are a simple dish that can be pushed out a few days but the bacon needed to find dishes and so six slices went into the crockpot and three slices became part of lunch as a side to our tomato and avocado salad. Tomorrow morning hopefully the rest of it will be part of our scrambled eggs.