North To Utah As Alaska Is Too Far

The day starts like any other day on the streets of Phoenix, Arizona. Shortly after 5:30 in the morning, Caroline and I find ourselves checking out the Christmas lights. We won’t have a lot of time to dawdle as after the sun rises, one of us will be staying home, and the other of us will be heading up the road to Utah, as why not?

Brinn shows up on time, but before we start the endurance test of our butts, backs, and hips, we have to stop in at King Coffee, a regular stop for coffee for me and occasionally for Brinn too. This is not King Coffee.

As a matter of fact, we’re no longer anywhere near Phoenix but well north of Flagstaff by this time. An abandoned old motel in Gray Mountain has become a bit of an art project, well, the outside, anyway.

The inside of what remains of this roadside lodge is now questionable at best, sketchy at least, and interesting in some weird way like so many of the rotting remains from another age one finds while driving around America.

Fresh blacktop slicing a deep black trail across the red and gray desert makes for an interesting contrast, but the poverty up here still retains the same bleak hostility of neglect that economic isolation puts on the population of these native lands.

We were able to catch some rafters passing under the Navajo Bridge that crosses the Colorado River here in Northern Arizona. Minutes ago, we were able to watch one condor perched on the girders of the opposite bridge while four others were flying about further downriver. With five of these birds on view and sadly unable to capture an adequate image of these majestic rare birds, I’d like to think that their reintroduction to the Canyon system 25 years ago is looking successful.

I tried yelling down to this private trip of river rafters, but their music was too loud to hear anything else, so I don’t believe they heard me informing them about condors just ahead.

There are people who raft rivers who would look at this photo and know exactly where I’m going next.

John Wise at Lees Ferry Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Yep, Lees Ferry, a.k.a. mile marker zero in the Grand Canyon National Park and the starting point for Colorado River adventures that depart from right here.

Lees Ferry Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The first riffle of white water in the Grand Canyon. Eleven years ago, when we first passed over this minor speed bump, from my perspective in the front of a dory, this was as terrifying as anything I could imagine. It turned out that this was nothing compared to what lay ahead. Read about that day starting at THIS LINK.

Our little two-day road trip is taking us up through the Vermillion Cliffs and will have us pass by the shuttered-for-the-season turn-off to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Good thing Lefevre Overlook isn’t popular with influencers yet because when Brinn and I pulled in, there was nobody else here enjoying the view. It wasn’t for lack of traffic as all day we’d been surrounded by those racing to get somewhere fast while this gray-haired old man plodded along, oblivious to how many middle fingers might have been thrown my way. The truth is that I don’t have time to race across the landscape failing to see more than a few of the details as one never knows how often they’ll pass through parts of a country not exactly convenient to visit.

The view from Lefevre Ridge.

Brinn Aaron in Utah

Brinn in Utah. Yesterday, while he and I were out between Superior and Globe down in central Arizona, he’d mentioned Utah a few times, so I had to ask, why? He’d never been to Utah, which was when, after a few minutes of thinking about that, I asked if he’d like to head up this weekend. Obviously, he agreed.

While we didn’t take the opportunity to have some “Ho-Made” pies, we did fill up on gas at the station next door, snapped a photo, and waved to our left as Zion National Park was not on today’s agenda. We are still heading north. According to an old blog post, Caroline and I first passed this place nearly 20 years ago.

Bryce National Park seems to come to mind.

After our stop at the old motel, a half-hour at Navajo Bridge, another half-hour (or so) detouring to Lees Ferry, and lunch at the Marble Canyon Restaurant, the remaining light of day is quickly escaping us.

While hints of what was to come tomorrow were able to be gleaned in the last moments of twilight, we arrived in Bryce just outside the national park when it was well dark and getting mighty cold.

Change Of Scenery

East of Superior, Arizona

Where does one go to escape themselves? Definitely not into the treadmill of routine. Sometimes, it’s so difficult to see beyond staying on the train of misery that we need a nudge that can toss us out of our well-worn groove.  Well, it so happens that a friend of mine is presently experiencing a minor hiccup that I felt he could benefit from being dragged away from his rut.

Brinn in Miami, Arizona

This is Mr. Beefcake, who, although heartbroken, is not so broken to have lost his lack of shame or sense of humor as he took up this sexy pose. (Maybe in this lower resolution, you can’t see the nipple tweaking and seductive tongue lolling out his moist lips, so I’m sure this mention will benefit the reader to better see what I witnessed.)

Note: Mr. Beefcake, not his real name, requested anonymity, hence the meaningful pseudonym. 

Miami, Arizona

In my universe, green chile on carne asada is always a cure for the sad heart, and there’s no greater cure for melancholy than this amazing plate of yummy from El Guayo’s in Miami, Arizona; so let the healing begin!

Miami, Arizona

After the gut is pacified with the salve of good eats, eye candy is next up on the menu. The romantic ruins of a crumbling old-west mining town can work the kind of wonders that will restore vigor, manhood, and the speedy relief of what ails the soul.

Miami, Arizona

We basked in the splendor of a dry river bed devoid of the distracting sounds of life that don’t allow sorrows to evaporate like the waters that once flowed through this place of decay.

Miami, Arizona

Window shopping? Sure, if you are looking for dust, pigeons, crumbling walls, and faded dreams. We were here to recognize that we were alive and fortunate enough to celebrate our vitality while what remains of Miami has been relegated to the scrap heap of things lost. We, though, are not lost, dusty, or being shat upon by pigeons; we can leave and heal ourselves because that’s what we do: we rebuild, and then we shit on pigeons.

Highway 77 south of Globe, Arizona

Sorrow is like a rusty old barbed wire fence in our minds that is stopping us at the gate of unification. I should probably mention something about God right about now, but would you really expect that from the person peddling this snake oil bullshit yer reading above?

Highway 77 south of Globe, Arizona

Open your heart like the openness of the Arizona desert, Mr. Beefcake, see your infinite potential on the horizon, and put down your troubles, squash that drama like a mosquito that’s landed on your nose.

Brinn on Highway 77 south of Globe, Arizona

After taking this photo, I consulted a physiognomist friend of mine who professionally analyzed Beefcake’s face and skull shape and then informed me that this specimen of a man is likely to be a repeater of potentially harmful behaviors due to his lack of ability to see much past his glowing mustache.

Gila River Highway 77 south of Globe, Arizona

But let us take a moment. To be honest, at this moment, Mr. Beefcake can be compared to this quickly fading river that once ran gloriously over the desert sands of Arizona. He is a pale reflection of his life prior to the anguish that has allowed his flow to be sucked away by the thirsty world that cares not if our towns, signs, homes, or souls are consumed by the relentless and vicious sunlight destroying man, beast, and river alike. But I trust Beefcake and am certain that he’ll soon regain his strength like a torrent of white water carving out canyons and pushing obstacles out of the way. He’ll reign once more over his domain.

South of Superior, Arizona

So, with the likelihood that tomorrow risks being a repeat of the day before, where the bad storytelling of contrived crap that arrived with this poor excuse of a blog post won’t be found, we decided under the romantic setting sun to head into new potentials by driving to Utah in the morning to find God, just as the Mormons did.

Friends

John Wise, Steve Alt, and Caroline Wise in Phoenix, Arizona

You might remember that a few weeks ago, we picked up Scottish friend William “Willy” Mather from the Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport here in Arizona and brought him to Flagstaff to start his rafting trip down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon? Well, today we are back at the airport, but this time we are picking up Steve “Sarge” Alt who finished a rafting trip down the same river just a few days after Willy finished his. Sadly, schedules didn’t allow for Willy to join friends Sarge and Frank “First Light” Kozyn on their trip and so while they were probably less than 50 miles apart at any given point during the past few weeks, their paths didn’t cross. But our paths did cross and even if we only have the opportunity to visit for a few hours, it’s well worth the time spent with these guys.

Sarge was on a seven-hour stopover which allowed us to pick up sandwiches and head over to Papago Park where we could pull a shaded picnic table and sit back to hear a few stories about this most recent river trip and a bit about the Selway trip up in Idaho that we had to bail out of this summer. While a small part of me wants to lament that Caroline nor I were on any white water river trips this year, I’d have to admit that I have nothing in the world to complain about.

Natasha and Aaron Go To California

Note: Today, guest novice blogger Natasha Peralta adding a story here. A little background: Natasha works at King Coffee I frequent often, as in every day, and I’m encouraging her to try her hand at sharing with her future self what she was doing during her early adulthood. Without further writing from me, I’m turning the keyboard over to her.

The night before we left, I went up to Chino Valley to pick up my younger sister, Jackie. We were supposed to leave at 6:30 in the morning, but Aaron forgot his wallet at work, so seeing we were over near Indian School, we decided to stop at Reap and Sow Coffee, which at night is a club for concerts. At 9:00, we were on our way to California. This was my first time driving to California, and I was really anxious. I was taking it out on Aaron and Jackie, which had everyone in a shit mood. In between picking up Aaron’s wallet and getting to my older sister Reigna’s house in Altadena Aaron had lost his wallet again, but this time it was lost for good. Despite a very stressful morning, none of it really mattered once we were there.

Here we are on Saturday morning at Disneyland. I would compare my feelings to how I felt when I went for the first time at eight years old. We were giddy. A week prior, when we checked the weather, it was supposed to rain both days we were there, but the weather was perfect.

This is us on Matterhorn. The few times I have been to Disneyland, this ride has been closed. I’m happy I got to experience it with them.

No one wanted to get wet. We only had to wait 10 minutes for Splash Mountain. This is the last time I’ll get to ride Splash Mountain. Soon, they will be changing to a Princess and the Frog ride.

Me, Aaron, and Jackie on the Guardians of the Galaxy ride in California Adventure.

This is another photo on the Guardians of the Galaxy ride, but with all of us. I might look excited, but I was scared. I’m not a fan of rides that drop. It’s embarrassing to admit, but other people on the ride noticed were assuring me it was not scary. It ended up being one of my favorite rides.

The Cars Ride in California Adventure. This is our second day at Disney. I was never a fan of the movies, but the ride was cool.

Aaron’s first Disneyland turkey leg.

The Dumbo ride was even more enchanting and special at night. I wish I had a picture of all three of us packed on the little seat.

John told me about San Pedro Fish Market when I started planning our trip to California. We got the shrimp tray. Eating seafood on the harbor was an incredible experience. We were lucky, and the mariachi band was there. None of us had been somewhere like it. Thank you, John.

Monty’s Good Burger. A hip vegan burger joint with several locations all over LA. I’ve been wanting to go for a while and am so glad I did. The best vegan burger I’ve had. Even Aaron, who rarely eats vegan, loved it.

Scottish Farmer Ruins Our Adventure

Caroline and John Wise with William Mather in Flagstaff Arizona

On this beautiful Saturday, we were tricked into bringing this Scotsman to Flagstaff, Arizona, after he flew in via Canada from his farm in Scotland. We don’t normally offer Uber services, but this guy convinced us via email that he was a descendent of William Wallace and had recently come into his inheritance. He was inviting us to raft the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon at his expense if we’d take him up north. We took the scenic road from Phoenix via Payson which I originally thought was so we could dip into one of his bottles of whiskey while underway, but apparently, he was nervous about an encounter with US Immigration and Customs Enforcement which makes sense now that I think about it, as Europeans are not allowed in America yet due to the pandemic. When I asked about that, he said that Post Brexit he was no longer part of that filthy horde of barbarians and so was allowed to be on our shores. By that time I was just drunk enough to believe him. Pulling into Flagstaff, we stopped at a local Haggis Shop where he was going to grab a couple of haggises and a pack of oatcakes, one haggis for this evening and one while we are out rafting the Colorado. Well, this was the last we saw of this crafty Scots outlaw as he must have left through a back door. Without hotel reservations and proof that we were booked for a Grand Canyon adventure, all we could do was head back to Phoenix looking like the rubes we are.

The truth is far more mundane as Flagstaff doesn’t even have a Haggis Shop nor did we drink a bottle of whiskey while on the road. This is our friend Willy whom we met years ago on a different rafting trip and we were simply bringing him to Flagstaff for his own adventure rafting through the canyon, without haggis and without us. We did enjoy our scenic drive through the largest stand of Ponderosa pines in the world and all the conversations that entailed.

Familie und Freunde

Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

After moving out of our wine barrel from last night, we ended up in a room at the main hotel that offered us this view of Drosselgasse. What is this place I refer to? Drosselgasse is a famous cobblestone-lined narrow street that slices through the old town, so if you find yourself chilling one day on the Rhein River and are wondering where to stay in Rüdesheim, you too might consider Hotel Lindenwirt. By the way, a very nice breakfast buffet is included with Champagne or wine.

Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

Not certain I had enough images to give a great impression of Rüdesheim, we stepped out to grab a few more, but time was short as we had a train to catch back to Frankfurt at 1:00 p.m.

Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

Not sure I’ve pointed this out before but it’s a convenience I’m in love with: menus posted outside restaurants that make it easy to see what is on offer. There’s always something embarrassing about entering an American restaurant, asking to see the menu, and then walking out as though they aren’t good enough just because you didn’t see something that resonated with you at that moment. It feels like we often compromise and figure it’s good enough rather than turn our backs on a friendly host or hostess. Maybe that’s what is intended?

Caroline Wise in Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

We ain’t leaving Germany without some cheesy gifts after staying in a town many Germans consider declasse and only fit for “Spiesser” or typical commoners below contempt. Well, we’ll own that title, as life isn’t all about snobbery without laughter. Tea towels with prints of German landmarks and mini bottles of Asbach Uralt (the local brandy wine) are coming with us.

Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

We needed to make quick work of the walk along the Rhein back to Geisenheim as every lost moment lingering in the scenery was minutes not spent with family.

Hindenburg Bridge in Rüdesheim am Rhein in Germany

But I’m a photographer and this old Hindenburg bridge ruin is not failing to enchant me every time we pass it. This will certainly be the last image of it until the day we return to the area. The stairs on both sides of the part of the bridge that is still intact lead to a steel gate topped with barbed wire; a drone would have come in handy here.

Hanns Engelhardt in Geisenheim, Germany

We’ll only have a brief two hours here with Hanns and Vevie, but taking advantage of the opportunity to spend time over the course of three days with them lent a deeper quality than dipping in for a few hours and being gone again for a year or two.

Vevie Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Geisenheim, Germany

And, of course, once more, a toast was raised to Our Lady of Geisenheim.

Geisenheim, Germany

How quickly two hours pass.

Hanns Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Geisenheim, Germany

Father Hanns walked us back to the train station and expressed a superabundance of appreciation for our visit, as did Vevie before we left their apartment. There’s a sadness in leaving, knowing that we won’t be visiting again before the next year at the earliest. If the people we spent time with were less enthusiastic, it would be easy to recapture our time and spend it selfishly on ourselves, but with how warmly we are greeted, we can only wish to spend time with everyone weekly if it were possible.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

An hour later, we are back in Frankfurt, about to spend a brief hour with Jutta. Chasing through the day, I get sloppy with remembering to take photos, and somehow, I bungled snapping an image of my mother-in-law with Caroline, but I didn’t forget to take yet another shot of Römer.

Frankfurt, Germany

On to our next date, this one in the Bahnhofsviertel.

Sylvia S. and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Early in my previous stint of living in Germany, I met Olaf F. tonight; we are having dinner with him and his wife, Sylvia S. On previous visits, we caught Sylvia at inopportune times when we’d maybe have minutes with her, but that is not true this day. It turns out that Caroline and Sylvia have a load in common and hit it off, spending every second of the seven hours we’ll visit talking, talking, talking.

Olaf F. and Sylvia S. with family in Frankfurt, Germany

This is Olaf and Sylvia with their son and daughter, Johnny and Lucy, more than a dozen years ago. As I’d never seen it before, I asked to take a photo of it for our blog of scrapbook memories.

Olaf F. and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Olaf F. and John Wise on the way to dinner in Sachsenhausen with our wives, who are quite effectively ignoring us as they are lost in gab.

Homeless in Sachsenhausen Frankfurt, Germany

This was our designated meeting place for the other two old friends we were supposed to meet up with, but they were drunk and passed out on the street. We tried rousing them, but they were nearly dead to the world. So the four of us had to eat alone.

On the Main River at night in Frankfurt, Germany

After dinner, the ladies wanted to walk back to Bahnhofsviertel while Olaf felt like the tram, so I accompanied Olaf and Sylvia and Caroline continued their conversation with a stroll along the Main River.

On the Main River at night in Frankfurt, Germany

Well, this was quite the surprise as neither Caroline nor I have ever seen a floating Döner Imbiss, but here it is satisfying the late-night munchies of those out on a walk. America may have created a food truck phenomenon, but maybe it’ll be Europe that creates the food boat wave.

On the Main River at night in Frankfurt, Germany

It’s almost impossible to fully appreciate how safe it is to walk through this city late at night, considering the conditioning that comes with living in the United States that there’s always an element of danger lurking in the back of one’s mind. America has fostered the conditions where people walk with trepidation in our big cities as there seems to be a constant threat to safety with every step. Untreated mental health issues, drugs, easy access to weapons, and a mostly broken, half-functional safety net make for a perfect breeding ground for those on the margin to act in desperate ways, thus putting everyone’s peace of mind into the toilet.

Frankfurt Vacation – Day 3

Today, on our way to see Caroline’s mom, we move through the same streets, arriving to find a mother-in-law, a bit disoriented. To minimize any confusion, I excuse myself and leave Caroline to talk with Jutta as we’ve recognized that she can become overwhelmed when dealing with two people simultaneously. When lunchtime rolled around, Caroline brought her mom to the dining room and joined me downstairs so we could head to our next meeting.

Returning the way we came, a sticker announcing Photography & Philosophy caught my eye; it turns out that this is a print magazine named Soul of Street that comes out of Cologne, Germany.

We had some time before our 1:00 meeting and so we took a walk over towards the opera. During my previous visit, this square was empty, and I photographed the Alte Oper with nobody between me and it.

Most of the tourists that would normally be in Europe during the summer are still missing from the streets, but other than them, things appear mostly back to normal as far as crowds are concerned. I’d estimate that maybe 1 in 10 on the streets are wearing masks, but for all shops and trains, masks are still mandatory.

Walking around the opera we discovered a new building we’d never seen before, the Wave or Die Welle as it’s known in German.

This is an old friend of ours, her name is Angela, she’s a nurse, and this was about the only time she could find to meet with us as tomorrow morning she leaves for Formentera, Spain to visit her boyfriend, Ruben.

Our loose plan was to visit an open-air market, get a bit for lunch, and sit a while talking over coffee. That’s exactly what we did.

After a few hours of sharing plans for the future and talking about love, Angela needed to get going to do some shopping and packing for tomorrow’s flight. Having only had the bratwurst and wanting to beat the Friday dinner crowd, Caroline and I headed off in the direction of a small German restaurant Angela recommended.

Across the Main River on our way to Sachsenhausen. Our destination was Eichkatzerl restaurant for some traditional local cuisine and a small bembel of Apfelwein for Caroline.

All that Apfelwein (apple wine) Caroline drank had to find an exit. To her regret, she decided to try one of these portapotties, and from the afternoon sun that beat on it all day, she knew she’d made a mistake. You may not be able to see it quite clearly but her face is reflecting the stench she’s emerging from.

There’s a strange realization as we walk along here on the Main River: we are about the oldest people around. It’s not late, maybe 7:30, as we stroll along, but the older people of the city are nowhere to be found. I should point out that if we are on the train between 6:00 and 9:00 in the morning, it’s mostly younger people, but after that, the old folks head out into the city, but by 3:00 p.m., they are disappearing as young people once again dominate the scene. It’s strange to me that old people appear to be carving out a time of day when they can avoid young people, but that’s just my observation.

Back on Eisener Steg, a.k.a. Iron Bridge and on our way back to the main shopping area where we’ll catch a train out to Heddernheim. Another day for friends and family.