Dresden to Görlitz, Germany

Dresden, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

The Dresden Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, is a Lutheran place of worship. Hence, the statue of Martin Luther standing in front of it. Back in 1995, when Caroline and I were moving to the States from Germany, reconstruction of the Frauenkirche had just begun. For fifty years after World War II, it sat as a sad ruin in total destruction. Even this statue of Martin Luther was toppled in the mayhem that devastated Dresden, but it survived and was repaired long before the church. Only eight years ago, the reconstructed building was once again standing in the glory of its best days. This being a Protestant church, they are open when it suits them, so as we wait for a visit to this significant sight, we’re off to the Catholic church, which is almost always open.

Dresden, Germany

This is the Fürstenzug mural featuring a procession of the rulers of Saxony. A week ago, when Caroline and I were up north near the Wattenmeer, she told me the story of the Frisians of Saxony and how, back in the 5th century AD, they inhabited parts of Britain after Rome fell. With their Celtic roots now merged with some German ancestry, things would remain relatively calm for almost 600 years until the Norman Conquest pumped England and the evolving English language full of French. As the British Empire rose, I don’t think we can divorce the influence of Rome, Germany, and France on this little island nation and realize that the beginning of multiculturalism is quite old and didn’t just arrive with late 20th-century liberalism. Back to the Fürstenzug that we are walking along, originally, this “Procession of Princes” was painted between 1871 and 1876 to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the Wettin Dynasty. One hundred years ago, the painting was replaced with 23,000 pieces of porcelain, making this 335-foot-long mural the largest porcelain artwork in the world.

Dresden, Germany

This is part of the Katholische Hofkirche or Dresden Cathedral but first, a detour to something that just caught my eye.

Dresden, Germany

These are the guards of the Georges Gate or Georgentor. Early Techno Viking, if you ask me. This is on the Schlossplatz or Palace Square, which we are walking through to get to the Catholic Church.

Dresden, Germany

The Dresden Cathedral is not a very ostentatious affair.

Dresden, Germany

Sadly, we didn’t visit the crypt. We didn’t know at the time that the majority of the Wettin family is buried here along with the heart of King Augustus II,  also known as Frederick Augustus I the Elector of Saxony, also popularly known as Augustus the Strong, also known as the Imperial Vicar and elected King of Poland, also known as the Grand Duke of Lithuania but even with all those titles he never had a sausage or sandwich named after him. Then again, the 4th Earl of Sandwich is buried in some rinky-dink place in a corner of England nobody has ever heard of, while King Augustus has his heart buried in a Cathedral, and his body rests in Wawel Cathedral in Kraków, Poland.

Dresden, Germany

One of the towers of Dresden Castle. Our visit doesn’t include a tour of the museum, as this mini-four-day excursion is all about quantity equaling quality and not lingering for the sake of luxury. We are happy with this overall impression of the city instead of immersion. I should also admit that I have a bit of reluctance even being in Dresden as after reunification in 1990, right-wing extremists from Rostock, Halle, Magdeburg, and Dresden were creating disturbances that made me leery of ever visiting these places. As I walk through Dresden, I can’t help but be aware that I’m an American and that, for some people who live here, that is as bad as being from any of the other countries they loathe.

The Semperoper on Theaterplatz is an opera house Caroline and I would love to visit one day. As I’m writing this, all opera houses around the earth are closed to visitors due to the Covid-19 pandemic. Even putting on events that can be live-streamed is impossible as the crowding of the stage and orchestra pit would create precarious situations for the health of the actors and musicians.

I can’t decide which way we should go, so after looking at the opera, we turned our attention back to the Dresden Castle before finally moving over the grounds of the Zwinger.

Augustus the Strong needed a park with fountains to hang out in back in the day of managing so much land and carrying so many titles, so he built the Zwinger. Not all of it, as he ran out of money before he could realize all of his dreams, but lucky for us, at some point, the area was turned into gardens and a museum.

Following the bombing of Dresden during World War II, everything was touched in this city by destruction; nothing was left unscathed. Visiting Dresden today, you’d never know that nearly 70 years ago, this city could have been scrapped it was in such bad shape. The attention to detail and effort to spend the money required to put not just Dresden back together but every major German city across the landscape attest to what an effort can be made to modernize a country.

Who doesn’t love Baroque architecture? I could have lingered all day, but this wasn’t that kind of trip.

Earlier, we walked past the Fürstenzug, a.k.a. Procession of Princes; this is the other side and part of the old stable connected to Dresden Castle. In the background, you can see the steeple of the Cathedral, which might make you wonder why there’s a Catholic church in a Protestant city. Back in the day, when France was the seat of culture and intellect, the French royalty remained steadfast in their Catholicism, and so did those who needed to be close to power. While the Frauenkirche was under construction, the need to have a place of worship for the Catholics was also recognized and so Augustus III commissioned this Cathedral that was connected directly to his home.

Speaking of the Frauenkirche, here we are in its magnificent interior. This photo does no justice to the spectacular detail and beauty found in this church. It really is something one should see with their own eyes. By the way, notice the organ pipes? Those really are above the altar, which I’m trying to remember if I’ve ever seen this orientation in quite the same way as my memory says the organ is always over the entry in the back of the church. Another thing about the altar: imagine a peasant stepping up to the altar to receive the Eucharist; how would they not have felt they were in the presence of God himself, when in their normal lives, things may have been a grim struggle?

Nothing like a bunch of white and gold with chambers within chambers to draw the mind’s eye above into bright, lofty thoughts.

For those who might be inclined, and let me say I was surprised there were so few of us, you can make your way up the dome on this ramp, and while the view into the church itself is a bit cramped, you will be rewarded when you reach close to the top with the opportunity to step outside and see the next photo.

Dresden, Germany

That is the River Elbe in front of us, as seen from the Frauenkirche here in Dresden, Germany. This was also the end of our time in this city as we’d decided to head over to Poland as neither of us had ever been there.

Bautzen, Germany

So much for getting over to Poland, as we are sidetracked in Bautzen. When in America, one doesn’t just stumble across Washington D.C., New York City, or Chicago to be drawn in by the skyline, and when driving past Scottsbluff, Nebraska, or Ardmore, Oklahoma, it isn’t likely that storage units will capture your curiosity, but as you approach a village in Europe, there’s too often something or other on the horizon that begs you to detour and come see what’s what. Just Google “Skyline Bautzen,” and you’ll see what I mean.

After parking near the Cathedral of St. Peter, as everyone knows that the cathedrals represent the center of the old town, we had to step inside.

Bautzen, Germany

Echoes of prayer and song with organ and choir can be heard between the shadows as the sun falls into the nave warming the memories of the parishioners who have once sat upon these pews.

Bautzen, Germany

The reward for being flexible is finding the opportunity to be delighted. I’d imagine that to the people that live on this street, there’s nothing special about this particular street, but to my American eyes, the yellow and red paint, the wrought iron lights, the curve in the street paved with stones, and a sidewalk cut of a different color stone are all notable qualities when contrasted with the country I’m from where asphalt and cement pave our paths and houses are mostly generic affairs built to last maybe 50 years, not 500 years.

Bautzen, Germany

Small corners with gated passages to places I won’t have the chance to visit create mystery as I try to imagine what is further up the stairs.

Bautzen, Germany

These are the ruins of the St. Nicholas Church. That’s right, Saint Nicholas, who some people know as Santa Claus. Just who was this Santa Claus guy who was originally known as Nicholas from Patara? Patara is now known as Demre in Turkey, but around 300 years after Christ, the town was Greek. The story goes that under the Roman Emperor Diocletian, who was busy prosecuting Christians, Bishop Nicholas fell into the clutches of prison, and upon being released, he attended the Council of Nicaea in A.D. 325, which your memory might serve you that this event was the First Ecumenical Council calling to preserve the unity of the church that was being threatened by various claims about the nature of Jesus Christ.

Eighteen years later, on 6 December 343, Nicholas died and turned into “manna,” or pure water, which proved he was a saint, but that wasn’t all. Stories came to life about the spirit of Nicholas being the protector of children and helper of those in need. Like all good tales, one thing leads to another, and pretty soon, you have a fat bearded white guy from the North Pole working with elves to bring loot on the 25th of December. WTF? A Greek Bishop under Roman dominion living on the coast of the Mediterranean hooks up with shape-shifting characters out of Norse mythology to raid electronics manufacturers in order to give children Playstations. Yeah, that’s the kind of people we are. But wait, we’re not done yet. Fast forward 1,100 years to 1450, and some people in the Sorbian village of Bautzen built a temple in honor of Santa Claus who had lived 1,800 miles south in Asia Minor because why? Well, that’s obvious: they were poor people who needed help, except then in 1619, with World War Zero raging (30 Years War, 1618-48), the church was razed, never to be rebuilt, because who needs a church dedicated to a myth that didn’t help anyone in Bautzen?

Bautzen, Germany

The astute reader picked up on me dropping “Sorbian village” into the conversation. I, too, wondered after Caroline and I arrived in Bautzen, “What is this Sorbian thing? I thought this was Germany?” Nothing is ever that easy in Germany, especially when it comes to how the country took shape, how language works here, and bread recipes. Without getting too deep into this ridiculously long blog entry that has 50 photos and a ton of words that I’m certain most people won’t even skim as they glide down the photos, thinking, why is this person wasting so much bandwidth on all these pictures that have meaning to me and just why did Google even suggest this page for what I was looking for? Anyway, the Sorbs are the people who gave themselves that name as they were ethnically Lusatians and Wends, not Germans. This West Slavic group is closer in identity to the Polish, Kashubian, Czech, and Slovak people, and while the Sorbian language is now a minority language in Germany, it’s still alive, such as right here in Bautzen.

Bautzen, Germany

I probably should have broken some of those paragraphs I’ve already written into smaller ones so I’d have something meaningful, historic, and important here, but I’ve got nothing. I did like the curve of the street, the wall, and how the house curves around the corner, I thought this was really cool. About the house on the right, does anyone else see the eyes on the roof and a mouth where the balcony should be?

Bautzen, Germany

I thought about removing this photo, though originally I liked it enough to have included it, but if I remove it, I have to go back and change where I wrote about this entry having 50 photos.

Bautzen, Germany

Sexy King Frog and his golden sphere must be some kind of Sorbian folktale, or maybe it was just part of a shop’s signage.

Bautzen, Germany

We just earned serious bragging rights as there are many people who can claim to have visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa but few who can say they’ve climbed to the top of the Leaning Tower of Bautzen, a.k.a. Reichenturm? But we did. The tower on the right is the Cathedral St. Peter, and off to its right and out of sight is the St. Nicholas Church. Straight ahead and a bit to the right with the yellow and black tower, that’s City Hall and near where we parked.

Bautzen, Germany

This mustard yellow City Hall building might be the appropriate color as it turns out that Bautzen is famous for its mustard. I wish I’d known this when we were there. But hey, it’s 2020, and Amazon has everything, right? Sure enough, they sell Bautz’ner Senf (mustard) right here in America, and I just got my order in. Time to continue our trek to Poland.

Görlitz, Germany

We thought we were going to Poland, but then the town on the border jumped into view. Welcome to Görlitz. This is the Frauenkirche, which you learned earlier in Dresden translates to Church of Our Lady. Just as the building is simple on the outside, so it is on the inside too. Had I shot at least one nice photo, I might have shared it but 50 photos are already so many. I think I’ve become my grandfather with his slideshows from his own travels at home back in the late 60s and early 70s.

Görlitz, Germany

If it’s called Dicker Turm, I’m going because a part of me is still 14 years old. Dicker Turm translates to Fat Tower, not Giant Penis. We should have gone up the 700-year-old 180 steps for a look around Görlitz and maybe even into Poland, but we were pressed for time on another side, too; Caroline is supposed to be getting some work done. This month in Germany began due to Jutta (my mother-in-law) breaking her hip. Part of the reason for so much time being able to be spent here is that Caroline could work remotely, and she still needs to get to that.

Görlitz, Germany

Oh damn, another church. We are suckers for churches and cannot turn away from one when we spot one. Just a quick look, we say, and then we find ourselves lost for even more time. This particular church is the Dreifaltigkeitskirche or Holy Trinity Church.

Görlitz, Germany

Older than the Fat Tower, this church was built between 1234 and 1245.

Görlitz, Germany

The altar in this church is spectacular, and because this overview lacks so much detail, I’m posting a closeup of the top of the altarpiece below.

Görlitz, Germany

I should have had my 70-200mm lens with me to capture the wings of the babies, but sometimes, when traveling, we have to opt for convenience over perfection.

Görlitz, Germany

Georgsbrunnen, or Fountain of St. George in the Altstadt, was just a momentary stop on our way through the “Old Town” doing some window shopping. Maybe we’d find a yarn store?

Görlitz, Germany

No yarn store but a gift store featuring Polish pottery from Bolesławiec. We left with a bowl that Caroline uses at least a couple of times a week. One of our favorite souvenirs ever.

Görlitz, Germany

We’re not the only ones to love the vibe here in Görlitz, as Wes Anderson was just here last month filming his new movie The Grand Budapest Hotel.

Görlitz, Germany

What is it about the quietest streets that hold some of the most appeal? I think that without people, I can imagine exactly what the place looked and felt like a couple of hundred years ago.

Trabi in Görlitz, Germany

With the Trabi on the road, I can almost picture it being 1967 in the Deutsche Democratic Republic. Here’s the famous Trabant 601 stinking up the street.

Görlitz, Germany

God rays, how appropriate just before entering another church.

Görlitz, Germany

This is the Sts. Peter and Paul Church, and due to our free time winding down, we must run after the briefest of visits.

Looking towards Zgorzelec, Poland

We are looking for Germany into Poland.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Little did we know it when I snapped this photo, but this is Piwnica Staromiejska, which is a restaurant on the Lusatian Neisse River. That’s right, earlier in Bautzen, we had just learned about Sorbians and their background, and here’s the river that separates Poland and Germany, and it’s called the Lusatian Neisse.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Zgorzelec, Poland

Needed the obligatory selfie in front of the Poland border marker, as one never knows if we’ll be out this way again. Poked around a little bit, but this side of the river didn’t look like a lot of history was on display, as maybe this was the old suburbs of the town center. Long ago, the two sides of the river were the same town, but as war and new state lines created divisions, the Polish side was named Zgorzelec.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Walking by the tower while we were on the bridge we saw that Piwnica Staromiejska had a sign out showing food and drink are available. This would be perfect for us to sit down for me to write a while and for Caroline to get caught up on work. It was a bit later in the day but still a good time for a late lunch, so we ordered a beer for Caroline, but our server interpreted it as a beer for each of us. I don’t drink, and we didn’t want to send it back as I insisted on ordering in my poor German instead of letting Caroline order, so Caroline had two beers while she worked. After a short wait, our food arrived: a shared plate of bacon and boiled potatoes with some carrot and cabbage salad.

Piwnica Staromiejska in Zgorzelec, Poland

Always room for a dessert especially something with orange and almond. We shared both dishes to ensure we’d have some appetite later when we found a hotel.

Ostritz, Germany

We are passing through Ostritz, Germany, on our way towards Czechia, also referred to as the Czech Republic. Where Bautzen and Görlitz have obviously benefited from reconstruction Euros, Ostritz has been left in the dark and is decaying.

Ostritz, Germany

Not to say there’s not a lot of character here and maybe someday others will move in to start renovations.

Ostritz, Germany

Five years after our visit, Ostritz gained international attention when it hosted a Neo-Nazi music festival. I’d guess they did so in order to bring some money into town, and who knows, maybe the old inhabitants miss the days of oppression, dictators, national socialism, or communism. Luckily for us, we didn’t run into a single skinhead.

Sunset on the road to Zittau, Germany

After leaving Ostritz, it was only another 20km to Zittau, and while we would have liked to drive all the way to Prague tonight, we weren’t sure about language problems, finding inexpensive lodging, or even navigating Czechia’s roads. While we found a room at the Black Bear Hotel (Schwarzer Bär), there weren’t a lot of dinner options, so we dined at the hotel’s restaurant. Dinner was okay, but breakfast the next day was where the wow factor came in. Two days into our little road trip and it already feels like we’ve been out for a week or two.

Eisenach to Weimar, Germany

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

Disclaimer: This blog entry wasn’t written until seven years after the trip. It should be noted that this was a huge mistake. Sometimes after writing so much about other days, it happens that at the time directly after the trip or even during, I convince myself that the details are not that important. Years later, these details are that important, and pulling them out of foggy memories is difficult. The photos help and often leave clues, and then Caroline’s memories are usually far clearer than mine. With that said, here goes.

Today was the day that we headed out of Frankfurt for a spontaneous, much-needed road trip that would take us someplace else. Up the road from Fulda is Eisenach, which at one time had been part of East Germany; as Caroline nor I had ever been there, it seemed like a great starting point. Like all road trips, we do our best to get out early, and this one was no exception. An hour down the road it was time for breakfast, and so we grabbed some random cafe. Wempen Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda was the perfect place. This breakfast came to define a memory of perfection that’s never been far from our minds. While we’d already been in Germany 18 days by now, this breakfast extravaganza struck a chord that is resonating seven years later as I write this.

Backhaus am Dalberg in Fulda, Germany

On intervening vacations in Europe, we’ve not made it back to Fulda, but the place will hopefully draw us back for a return at least once more in our lifetimes. We didn’t need much convincing that if the rest of our meal was so amazing that their creampuffs would probably be delectable too, we weren’t wrong. I should point out that Backhaus am Dalberg is not in a high-end shopping area, a wealthy neighborhood, or is in any way set up to tease our expectations with its exclusiveness. It was a cafe and did its work incredibly. While relatively common across Germany, these levels of attention to detail are rare in America unless you are in Santa Monica, California, Bellevue, Washington, New York City, or out on Cape Cod.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

Once arrived in Eisenach, we had just barely parked the car when we spotted a woman in garb from another age, and can we believe our eyes? She’s spinning fiber! While Caroline’s sister Stephanie is an avid knitter, she doesn’t spin or weave, so this is the first German my wife has ever met who knows how to spin fiber to make yarn. That deserved a photo to mark the occasion.

Eisenach, Germany

St. George’s Church on the Marktplatz is known in German as Georgenkirche and was originally built in the 12th century. Martin Luther held a sermon right here back on 2 May 1521, and 165 years later on 23 March 1685, Johann Sebastian Bach was baptized in this very church.

Eisenach, Germany

Both of these events played key roles in why we are in Eisenach today. Around the corner is a Bach Museum, and just a few miles up the road from there is the Wartburg, where Martin Luther made history. Seeing we aren’t in a hurry today and plan on being out on the road for four days, we are taking our time to wander a bit. By the way, that fountain here on the side of the church was designed back in 1549.

Eisenach, Germany

On our way over to Bachhaus (Bach House), I couldn’t help but want to photograph every Fachwerkhaus I spotted. In America, we refer to this style of architecture as a half-timbered house.

Bach Statue in Eisenach, Germany

Outside the Bach House, where a court area features this statue, we were trying to go slow and contain our excitement, but come on, this is Bach, and in some way, it is like visiting Disneyland for nerds. At one point, it was thought this was where Johann Sebastian Bach was born, but proof of that has never been found, so while it could be proven that he lived here for a time, that will suffice for it to act as the museum that highlights his life here in Eisenach during the period of the late 17th century into the early 18th.

Bach's House in Eisenach, Germany

Just minutes after paying our admission, we were told to hurry over to a nearby room where a demonstration of some of Bach’s music would be performed on historic instruments that would have been identical to those available to the composer in his day. How does one explain how amazing it is to hear the music of Bach on instruments that he may have actually played almost 300 years ago? The exhibits are much of what one would expect when visiting a home setup to give impressions of the age, but other than the actual historical pieces; it was the music shop after the performance that really had our attention. I think we left with between 8 and 10 CDs of Bach’s music.

Caroline Wise in Eisenach, Germany

After that kind of excitement, Caroline needed something to calm her geek factor down, and nothing does that, like a nice lukewarm bottle of Black Ass beer. Oh, you don’t read German and can’t translate Schwarzer Esel? Well, I just did that for you, and the photo is proof that my wife guzzled a bottle of Black Ass on the streets of Eisenach. I think Martin Luther might have rolled over in his grave at my description of these shenanigans in this important city.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

We drove up the hill a bit and parked in the forest with everyone else. The vendor selling Thüringer Rostbratwurst almost pulled us in for the grilling sausages, but he had a good line going, and we were hoofing it up the mountain, so we’d wait till later for a snack. There’s something not so great about our approach in the forest: we never were able to gain an overview of the castle we were approaching. This is the Wartburg, and like a broken record, I can’t downplay the historical importance of this fortress on the mountaintop. The Wartburg served as the hiding place for Martin Luther from May 1521 to March 1522 and is where, over a 10-week period, he translated the bible from Greek to German.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Martin Luther was hiding here after receiving ex-communication from Pope Leo X and not recanting during the Diet of Worms his Ninety-five Theses or Disputation on the Power and Efficacy of Indulgences, where he took umbrage with the abuse of power by the clergy. Now a wanted man, it was Frederick the Wise who helped “Junker Jörg” (aka the Knight George) remain in hiding. By the way, Frederick and I are in no way related as far as I know, and obviously, Knight George was the nom de guerre of Martin Luther.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Nearly 500 years ago, Martin Luther, who may have very well stood at this window contemplating his act of rebellion while being clueless that Lutheranism and Protestantism were about to be birthed and the entire balance of power in Europe and the church were going to shift. Within 100 years of this fateful translation, Europe would fall into World War Zero with the 30 Years War.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

Before arriving at the room where Martin Luther worked, we had to pass through a number of rooms in the castle. Normally, this would be very cool, but we’re talking about the guy behind the Reformation, so quite a serious heavyweight in the scheme of history. This is kind of like waiting in line to get on the Pirates of the Caribbean. Yes, it’s quite nice here, but I want to get into the cellar where the drunken pirates are putting on quite the scene.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

About now, I’d imagine my average reader who showed up here for a travel story is wondering what the hell the Ninety-Five Theses and Reformation have to do with getting Thüringer sausages and hanging out at a castle. Maybe you are asking if there’s a corollary between bratwursts and the bible; while I’m sure there is, I don’t really know what it would be off-hand, but there’s certainly a correlation regarding massive shifts in European history and then American history for that matter when it came to the events between 1517 and early 1522. We’re talking a lot of facts and details that no one comes to my blog for; you’d probably prefer I get to those grilled sausages and tell you how yummy they were.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the Festaal or the Banquet Hall, where the royalty of Thüringia would gather to feast on Thüringer Brats and beer. The truth is I don’t know exactly, though I wonder if this was where Devo played back on June 13, 1980, when this was still Communist East Germany?

Update: it’s been a few years since I wrote this, and the Wikipedia article still claims that Devo played here, but with further research, I learned that Devo actually played the Wartburg in Wiesbaden, West Germany, just outside of Frankfurt.

Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

One more bit of history for you: the Wartburg is the setting for Richard Wagner’s opera Tannhäuser. Legend has it that the Sängerkrieg, or Minstrels’ Contest, was performed here back in 1206 to 1207, which Wagner based his opera on. Now, don’t forget to post a comment here after you go have a listen to Tannhäuser and thank me, though I really enjoy Tristan and Isolde a lot too. Also, consider that back in 1618 to 1648, the 30 Years War was going on, and while this castle was still standing, it was doing poorly but not as bad as the population below when, between 1347 and 1351, the Black Plague was decimating Europe. Did I forget to tell you that Goethe once stayed here?  He was considering turning the Wartburg into an art museum, but when 100s of students met here in 1817 to proclaim their desire for a national state with a constitution and laying the groundwork for the 1848 revolution, he lost interest.

Caroline Wise at the Wartburg in Eisenach, Germany

This is the room, it is claimed, where Martin Luther translated the bible and changed history forever. If I have my history right, the wall over by the heater is where Martin Luther saw the devil and threw his inkpot at him. The resulting stain remained through much of history, but slowly but surely, souvenir hunters scraped a gaping hole in the wall as they tried collecting their personal mementos. No matter the specifics, we are in proximity to the locations where momentous events were taking place, and so if we do nothing more than reflect on these tidbits of history we’ve collected over our lifetimes, we can relish the opportunity afforded us to round out the pictures that drift out of space creating knowledge for those interested in collecting it.

Weimar, Germany

Weimar, the place of legend. Sadly, we are here late in the day and will basically just pass through. As this is a spontaneous road trip without known destinations and our desire to shove as many sights into our heads as possible before returning to America in 9 days, we will stay on the move with the hope that our little orientation side trips while in Europe will lead to a return to pick up on those sights we miss due to our relative hurry.

Weimar, Germany

For over 1000 years, the city of Weimar has been here and is probably most famous for lending its name to post-World War I Germany – the Weimar Republic. Germany’s first democratic constitution was signed here, thus creating the first German republic.

Also very important, Weimar’s contribution to the German Enlightenment started back in the 18th century. People like Johann Gottfried Herder, who was an early leader in the Sturm and Drang movement, along with Friedrich Schiller and  Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, defined Weimar Classicism. After World War I, Walter Gropius, who founded the Bauhaus movement along with Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky, gave Weimar its artistic roots.

Weimar, Germany

We are taking it easy on our trek through town but needed to visit a green area and this summer home of Goethe on the Ilm River seemed like a nice destination.

Caroline Wise in the Ilm River in Weimar, Germany

Or maybe our real goal was to find Caroline a place to step into the water so she could take the tradition we started in America into Europe?

Weimar, Germany

The actual graves of Goethe and Schiller are over in the Fürstengruft, which is the ducal burial chapel, but that is now closed for the day. This Goethe family memorial had to represent our visit to the cemetery.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Nietzsche Archive in Weimar, Germany

All this talk about history and we now get to my personal high point; though being able to visit would have been better, at least we had the chance to stand in front of the Nietzsche Archive. This is where Friedrich Nietzsche spent the last silent years of his life. He was not originally from Weimar, but his sister had a home here, right behind us, and in his years of mental collapse, it was the place where he would be cared for. While Nietzsche has played quite an important role in my life, I can never say with any certainty that I understood a word he wrote. Even the titles of his works are buried with meaning that may have escaped my puny brain. No matter, I still have the utmost respect for his brand of genius and am content that I’ve had the opportunity to be somewhere near where he once was.

Weimar, Germany

So here we are with so many important moments and personalities out of history, but our last monument is one that few people outside of Germany have likely heard of this is the Wildenbruch Monument. Ernst von Wildenbruch was a poet and dramatist. I can’t say I’ve ever heard of even one of his works, but seeing this statue memorializing him in the late-day sun, I couldn’t help but feel he was worthy of making a contribution to this blog.

Caroline Wise having a beer in Weimar, Germany

We’ll stay the night at the Hotel Röhrsdorfer Hof over in Chemnitz but first some dinner in Weimar. It was a beautiful day here in late April, and what’s better than enjoying a beer while sitting outside to enjoy the remaining sunset? It’s funny how, after seven years away from this experience, the flow of photos combined with the exercise of writing along with Caroline and my memories allowed me to put together a not-so-short narrative about the day. On to Dresden.

Frankfurt and Old Friends

An open air market in the Bornheim area of Frankfurt, Germany

The first half-dozen photos in this entry are for my friend Rob Lazzaratto, who lives in Tonopah, Arizona, and runs his own farmers’ markets. These markets in Frankfurt move around the city and can be found nearly every day; today, we are in the Bornheim area. What’s crazy is Frankfurt while considered a large metropolitan area, its population is just under 700,000 people. On the other hand, Phoenix, Arizona, is home to nearly 1.5 million people. The point is that Frankfurt has a more vibrant active marketplace for independent sellers and the number of people who visit them than the Phoenix area. Not only that, the markets here are open from early morning to just before evening. The same is true for the arts here. At every train stop we pass through, we find posters and flyers announcing various arts, music, and speaking dates across the area. The culinary and art cultures are alive and well in Frankfurt.

Vegetable stand at the Bornheim farmers market in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany, while it imports much food also grows a lot with the help of its extensive network of greenhouse growers. With the opening of the European Union, food products started moving across former borders with ease, just as we people are allowed to do now. Some 20 years ago, while those of us in private cars lined up at border crossings, the really long lines were formed by the kilometer or better of trucks that were moving livestock and produce between countries from France and Denmark to Italy and Greece and all lands between. These days, there are no border traffic jams; everything sails right through. The effect of all this unencumbered trade is that the selection of food choices has grown to offer Europeans incredible choices.

Potato stand at an open-air market in Frankfurt, Germany

This potato stand was offering eight different varieties of potatoes, along with a few types of onions and garlic – all staples in the German kitchen.

Bread stand at an open-air market in Frankfurt, Germany

No German table is complete without bread. This may be the single most important food in Deutschland. The biggest complaint you are likely to hear from Germans traveling in America or England is that we eat the most boring, spongy-soft, taste-free substance that we dare call bread. Bread here has gusto, crunch, and heft. There may be more bakeries in Frankfurt alone than all the convenience stores in the state of Arizona. As a matter of fact, the typical German dinner at home is called abendt brot (evening bread), and it’s just that: a couple of pieces of bread with some cheese and deli meat, maybe a small salad too.

Olives and peppers at an open-air market in Frankfurt, Germany

All things olive. From sheep cheese marinated in olive oil to more than two dozen variations of the olives themselves, this stand was offering the gourmets of Frankfurt nearly every form of this famous fruit to the public walking by this morning. Nor do these sellers have the market cornered, as another street-side shop was offering a different variety of olive-drenched products.

White asparagus is a German tradition, the green variety is nearly unknown here in Germany

A seasonal favorite in Germany is asparagus, but not just any asparagus; it must be white asparagus. So, how does one grow white asparagus? The fields across this region where asparagus grows are covered with plastic or a thick cover of mulch. This process ensures the asparagus shoots never see the light of day. Deprived of sunlight, they do not produce chlorophyll and so they remain white. The color is not the only difference; the taste is also much more subtle, well, at least to me anyway. From April through June, this German delicacy remains in high demand; its price also reflects that point.

One of three cheese stands at this open-air market in Frankfurt, Germany

One might start to think that Germans are foodies, though many would argue that German food is quite boring. When looking at the important staples in this country’s diet, cheese and plenty of it, plays a big role. At today’s market were three vendors selling cheese products, and not a slice of yellow nondescript cheese product was to be found, nor ‘cheese’ in a spray can. While cheese may not be a religion as it is to the French, Germany could easily be in second place for bragging rights to those who love cheese more. When perusing these cheese mongers wares be prepared to walk away with a little of everything. Also, here in numbers are the meat sellers, from chicken and fish to tons of pork, beef, and wild game, but I didn’t capture a photo worth sharing.

Painting at the end of an apartment building in Frankfurt, Germany

This is not graffiti. It is a painting at the end of an apartment building showing typical daily life in Frankfurt, where women drinking apple wine hang out with blue goats, laughing the day away.

The city of Frankfurt bursts into color as it bypasses spring and goes from winter directly into summer.

A week ago, the trees were still bare, the air freezing cold and everyone was bundled up in winter clothes. Not so true today as the trees are exploding in color, and the temperatures have crawled out of brrr into the mid-20s Celsius (75 Fahrenheit). And the flowers are not the only thing making themselves seen; it’s time to break out the “I’m not sure yet if it’s time for summer clothes” – skirts still have heavy leggings underneath them, and short sleeve shirts have jackets draped over the arm; just in case.

Detail on an apartment building seen while walking the streets of Frankfurt, Germany

If you only walk with your eyes looking straight ahead, you will miss much in any given European city. Details pop out of nearly every corner; in this case, it was a face adorned to the front of an apartment underneath a balcony just overhead.

Famous Frankfurt photographer 'To Kuehne' with old friends Caroline and John Wise

Meet To Kuehne (pronounced Toe), an old friend of ours. To is approaching a level of fame that has him being recognized on the streets of Germany, but he still has time for us. So much time, in fact that we have been invited to dinner on Friday night, he’s promised to make dinner himself. Also on the invitation is another old friend, Olaf Finkbeiner, but I’m having trouble getting hold of him. I hope he makes it.

John Wise, Caroline Wise and Manuel Francescon in Frankfurt, Germany

Who did make it for today’s meeting with To was Manuel Francescon von Oberursel! These two guys are very special in our lives as some 20 years ago; they helped me make a video for Caroline’s birthday that still makes us laugh to this day. After our departure from Germany, Manuel made a career for himself making short films and ultimately started working in TV and radio. The four of us sat outside in the sun at a local cafe for hours, hearing their voices again kept smiles on our faces the entire time. Saying goodbye to Manuel was hard, as the idea that we may not see him again for many more years was a bitter pill to swallow. Today, we realized just how much we miss our old friends.

On the streets of Frankfurt, Germany

By late afternoon, we were once again on the move, back to Bornheim to pick up a prescription for Jutta.

Near the Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

After arriving at the rehabilitation clinic, we couldn’t find any sign of Jutta. We knocked multiple times at her room, figuring that maybe she was in the restroom. We’d already checked the dining room and were on our way to the doctor’s office when Stephanie showed up, telling us that Jutta was back in Bürger Hospital. Just before panic sets in, she tells us that Jutta’s wound is infected.  Could be worse, at least, as she didn’t break her other hip! With all of the required train stops that would be needed to go to the hospital and Caroline behind with work she’s been trying to keep up with from her job back home, we decided to head back to Stephanie and Klaus’s place.

The European Central Bank in Frankfurt, Germany

This is the headquarters of the European Central Bank. We left our first train at Hauptbahnhof (the main train station) to walk up the street to the train stop, where the subway would take us to our temporary home. With restaurants from Malaysia and the Balkans to fast food joints selling Pakistani and Lebanese specialties, we walked amongst the international throngs, admiring the diversity that has become Frankfurt. It seems fitting that this multi-cultural city would become home to this conglomeration of states that make up the E.U.

This train stop is now called Willy Brandt Platz but back when we lived here it was Theater Platz . In Frankfurt, Germany

Twenty years ago, this subway stop was Theater-Platz; today, it is Willy-Brandt-Platz, named after the popular and long-standing German Chancellor. Downstairs, we will board the U1, U3, or U8 for our short ride home, which not only runs underground but emerges into the light of the day for the majority of our trip to Heddernheim.

Cherry blossoms in Frankfurt, Germany

And this concludes this very long entry. Earlier, I said summer had arrived; maybe I exaggerated a little, as here’s proof that spring is upon Germany: cherry blossoms.

From Denmark to Lübeck and Lüneburg

Roadside in northern Germany

A peculiarity of this trip into Europe was that jet lag was at a minimum, and something was triggering an internal alarm clock that had us getting up every day between 6:00 and 6:15. Downstairs, a great breakfast awaits us, that is, if you love a traditional German breakfast. We pay our hotel bill as we check out. Strange, isn’t it that we pay in the morning because not only do they trust us to pay, but they have my passport number too, so I guess trust is secondary. The same goes for gas stations around Europe; no need to pay first, pump your gas, and then go pay. Sure, some will forget to pay, and others might think they can get away with it, but that’s only on rare occasions. We are now ready to go. Some construction along the way detours us through Leck and Süderlügen, but we are soon back on track, traveling the country roads to somewhere up north.

Blooming crocus flowers in Ladelund, Germany

To our right, a sign grabs Caroline’s attention and she asks me to indulge her a detour. We are heading to Ladelund, heck I’d go just because the name sounds so nice – Laadaloond. What’s got her interested is the detail that tells us that a KZ-Gedenk und Begegnungsstätte (Concentration Camp Memorial and Meeting Point) is up the road. The sign doesn’t tell us how far away it is, and we’re not traveling with GPS; call us old school. In any case, even if we’d had a navigation device, we’d still be going because what it would have failed to let us know was that the site is closed on Mondays. Good thing this beautiful yard of crocus was in bloom to distract us, making the extra miles worth the effort.

Caroline and John Wise about to enter Denmark for the first time

With no fanfare or announcement of what was approaching, the border for Denmark was upon us. Strange thing, this EU construct, no more border checks, no encounter with law enforcement ready to examine orifices or search under the car for god-knows-what. Nothing more than a blue sky with wispy clouds and a warm sun that has allowed us to leave behind the winter gear. Nice way to be introduced to the Danish and their land.

An old windmill in the town of Høyer, Denmark

After driving back towards the coast with no real destination in mind or on the map, we are soon pulling into the town of Høyer, Denmark. Cool, a windmill. Let’s get a closer look. Hey, the door is open, it’s a museum, and it’s open on Monday. Not only have we never been to Denmark before, but neither of us has been inside a windmill either. That’s about to be rectified.

Potato cake and sour cream at the Høyer windmill and museum in Denmark

On the way to Høyer, we’d seen gas stations offering fuel for €11 a liter, but we were certain they must be using gallons because we were paying €1.58 per liter in Germany, and there was no way that gas could be $68 a gallon in Denmark. Turns out that the Danes opted against the Euro and have stuck with their Krones. Now that we know the currency in use, we also learn that our Euros are taken everywhere in Denmark, but change is given in Krones. We pay for our admission before noticing the treats. I asked if they were something special to the Danish (of course, I was looking for Danishes) and was told that they were, in fact, Danish specialties. One of each was on order; the first was a stack of pancake-like wafers with jam between the layers. The other is pictured here; it is potato cake, a bit sweet, served with a big dollop of sour cream. With some hot coffee, we sat down to enjoy our first flavors of Denmark. I promise I won’t continue to note all the firsts experienced this day.

An old boat on display at the windmill museum in Høyer, Denmark

Upstairs is the museum with a focus on local life. Being a coastal community it only makes sense that the ocean and life next to it is the main feature. Høyer is a small village; the museum is appropriately small too. There are two floors to the place with an interesting look at how the encroaching and receding ocean has affected life here. I say receding because, like most of the coastal areas between the Netherlands and Denmark, much engineering has been done over the centuries to claim land from the sea that works determinedly to take it back.

Grinding stones in the Høyer windmill in Denmark

These are the grinding stones in the windmill. Some years ago, the windmill was started up to see if things were still working, and sure enough, grain was turned into flour just as it had been so many years ago. Back in the day, it was able to push out 600 kg (1300 pounds) of flour a day; I wonder if it makes more money now as an attraction or back then when it was hard at work.

Gears that when engaged spin the various elements of the mill here in Høyer, Denmark

When the wind blows, the blades on the mill allow for these gears to be engaged, starting up the process of turning all of the elements that are required to work. The history on display is intriguing to us; we are delighted to be here, and if we had a wish, it would be to visit again when the mill is working. All but the very top of the windmill is open to our exploration. We learn more about the operation of one of these iconic landmarks than we had ever dreamed of. On our way up the steep stairs to one of the upper floors, I noticed in the dark a piece of equipment that really grabbed my eye. It’s a modern machine, relatively, that was used to slow down the turning blades and also to help on windless days. The motor near the ceiling was made in Buffalo, New York, the same place I was made.

A butterfly Caroline saved from being trapped in the Høyer windmill in Denmark

Saved by the wife. Fluttering, struggling, and frantically trying to escape a closed window, this butterfly didn’t stand a chance. That was until Caroline caught sight of the forlorn symbol of spring. Carefully scooped up, it fought the hands that were trying to free it from its imprisonment. Once outside and able to fly away, it settled in, maybe to catch its breath. Today, we saved a butterfly so a hurricane may live to churn the sea another day.

Old wheelchair sitting broken and unused in the basement of the windmill in Høyer, Denmark

This old broken wheelchair in the basement was beautiful in the glowing light; it could have been scary and creepy if it was found stowed further into the darkness. Nightmares yet to be created could manifest from the sight of this chair as it creeks by itself in the darkness with no one else around. Instead, it was right up front and melancholy, if anything at all.

We're on the road to nowhere in Denmark

No, this isn’t Kansas or Saskatoon for you Canadians; it is the road to nowhere, where nothing really happens. Sorry, but it isn’t a Talking Heads song either; it is The Road to Rømø.

Caroline Wise walking on the Danish side of the Wattenmear near Rømø, Denmark

Somewhere out there is an ocean; it’s called the North Sea. It was here earlier; there are signs of it in the form of shells and wormholes. Later, it will return, but we’ll be gone. Reminds me of Schrödinger’s cat.

Caroline Wise walking the beach on Rømø Island in Denmark

While it is indeed overcast, this beach on the North Sea is worth every minute it took to get here. We followed some other cars out on the beach that drove on the sand with confidence. Our one other opportunity to drive on a beach was met with a sinking feeling that the car was sinking in the sand. The park ranger yelling at us from her vehicle couldn’t holler loud enough, telling us, “Don’t stop.” It was exactly what we did. With that memory still fresh in our heads 15 years later, it’s easy to see why we were reluctant. Lucky day today because we drove right out, parking just feet from the sea, and drove away before a rogue wave could have taken our rental and delivered it to England across the open water.

Pølese Mix from Perlen in Skærbæk, Denmark

We’re not famished, but hot food sounds like a good idea to us. At the intersection of Rømovej and Nørre Skærbækvej on the way to Kruså, we see something that looks to be a fast food place. It’s called Perlen, and we are curious to see what else the Danish eat besides tasty sweets and danishes. Mmmm, Pølese Mix sounds too good not to try. Not exactly sure what we’ll be getting but it didn’t look like a burger or a pizza, so give us one of those. French fries with deep-fried sausage topped with salad and Crème Fraîche is what we got, adding to our collection of new experiences.

Caroline Wise standing in the Baltic Sea at Lillestrand in Denmark

Our last stop in Denmark is at Lillestrand, where Caroline is able to step into the frigid waters of the Baltic Sea (Ostsee for Germans). My wife has now stood in the Pacific, Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico, North Sea, a few of the Great Lakes, the Mississippi, Colorado, Missouri, Snake, Columbia, and Alsek Rivers, and now the Baltic. This is only a partial list of the waters she has doffed her shoes to stand in.

A windmill in the German countryside.

We most often choose the roads we travel by their proximity to something that suggests great views are possible on this route. The road we are driving this afternoon parallels the Baltic Sea; the only problem is that it doesn’t ever really come close to it. Things like windmills and farms stand between us, and great views of the sea, though windmills are nothing to sneeze at, so we are quite happy to be amongst the rolling green hills and the occasional surprise.

The harbor at Eckernförde, Germany

Eckernförde, Germany, is not really on anyone’s tourist map. It doesn’t resonate like Berlin or Munich, but those cities are easy to visit. Eckernförde requires you to get off the main route, drive through the countryside, and take things as they come. We’re good at this method of travel. Kind of reminds me of a small New York town along the St. Lawrence Seaway.

St. Mary's Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany

Inside St. Mary’s Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany, looking straight up. You may notice a trend when you view blog posts I make while in Europe that the first pictures are of churches. Not just any churches either, typically it is the main Dom, as it’s called in Germany; we call them Cathedrals in the West. The reason this occurs is that when aiming for a downtown (Zentrum) area, it is the Dom that first demands your attention. Once our gaze is fixed on those iconic vaults, it seems we are drawn right to their doors. And anyway, what better way to start seeing a city than in one of these magnificent buildings?

St. Mary's Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany

In fact, this wasn’t the church we intended to visit first; we were looking for the Dom. Not until we returned to Arizona did we realize that this was St. Mary’s Church (Marienkirche), not the Lübeck Dom. Checkmark number one for a needed reason to return to Lübeck. This old church is Germany’s third-largest and has the highest brick vault in the world. Construction on the church began in 1250 and took 100 years to complete.

Ceiling detail in St. Mary's Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany

St. Mary's Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany

St. Mary's Cathedral in Lübeck, Germany

We arrived at St. Mary’s shortly before closing, only fifteen minutes before six, to be precise. The guy at the door waved the fee and allowed us to sprint through the church. Photos would have to do for now to save some memories for later. The circumstances were obviously not ideal for a visit to such an incredible amount of work and history, but as the old saying goes, “It’s better than nothing.”

Inside the Lübeck Rathaus (City Hall)

We didn’t even get 2 minutes in the Rathaus (City Hall) because it was technically closed. While the doors were still open, the last guided tour was finishing up, and we would have to satisfy ourselves with a quick peek at the lobby. How this worked out is that the other day, on the way up, we just missed everything, and now, again today, we’re having a repeat is almost a bummer. What saved the day was that the Niederegger shop was open till 7:00 tonight. If you have to ask what a Niederegger is, well, you then do not know the most famous brand of marzipan in the world.

Detail of a door ornament on the Lübeck Rathaus (City Hall) in Germany

This ornament was seen on the door to the city hall. The door is one of the last things you see upon exiting the building before spotting the Niederegger shop across the way. Marzipan might well be what Lübeck is most famous for today.

Backside of the Lübeck Rathaus (City Hall) in Germany

This facade is part of the city hall, and behind it is St. Mary’s Church. There’s a new version of Photoshop on the horizon that might ultimately help with un-wonking the perspective of the building; it is an incredibly difficult place to photograph. Next stop, the world of almond paste; marzipan.

City gate of Lübeck, Germany, now an iconic figure for Niederegger Marzipan

The Twin Tower gate is nearly all that remains of the old city gate. Today it is more famously known for its depiction as part of the Niederegger Marzipan brand. Caroline and I spent nearly 45 minutes in the shop wanting to buy one of everything, but that would likely cost someone hundreds of dollars. It’s amazing how many things can be made from almond paste, and it is all very tempting. We bought gifts for nearly everyone we know, except those of you who didn’t get any. Next time we head off to Germany, let us know you love the stuff, and we’ll be sure to get some in honor of you. I say in honor because the likelihood of it making its way back is slim. All you need to try is one of the walnut marzipan bonbons to know what I mean.

The Trave River in Lübeck, Germany

It’s getting late, and this is not where we’ll be calling it a night, so from the tower gate just to the right of this photo of the Trave River, we are heading across town to enjoy the remaining light that still filters through the heavy cloud cover.

A narrow street in Lübeck, Germany

Narrow cobblestone streets that curve into the distance are my perfect idea of what a street should look like. There’s never enough time to do it all. Rushing around is less than ideal, but here we are with a few more impressions and the knowledge that Lübeck can easily pull us back to its charm for a return visit. For our overnight stay, we drove south to Lüneburg. About halfway down, it started to rain. Finding an affordable hotel after 9:00 p.m. was a chore. The place we settled on we agreed, must have been one of the top five worst places we have ever stayed in. Anyone who has stayed off Interstate 10 or parts of Route 66 in the United States would know just how bad the place must have been.

The Wattenmeer

Sunrise over Kiel, Germany

We wake in time to see the sunrise over the harbor in Kiel. This is a rarity for us, as in Frankfurt, we are surrounded by buildings, and seeing the horizon is not possible unless your day starts in one of the highrises. It was late last night when we finally found a hotel. Our corner room on the 8th floor at Hotel Astor was only €69, and the view was tremendous. Time in the room, though, is short because we are excited to get back on the road for our visit to the Wattenmeer.

Heading to the sea in northern Germany

Where we are headed on the coast is even flatter than this. The Wattenmeer (Wadden Sea) is a shallow coastal plain now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Neither Caroline nor I have ever visited this far northern corner of Germany, and we are both excited to be doing so, even with the gray weather. While it’s only about 70 miles (114 km) from Kiel to St. Peter-Ording on the western coast of Germany, the country roads slow us down, leaving time for some sightseeing.

A stork seen in Christiansholm, Germany

Wat in Dutch is mud, so Wattenmeer is loosely translated as mudflat sea. For Germany, the area is a National Park; for us, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime dream come true; we hope. The drive takes us through a number of small villages, including Christiansholm, where we see this stork occupying its nest. This is the first stork in the wild that either Caroline or I have seen.

A reetgedecktes haus (reed roof house) in northern Germany

The area we are heading into while German is also home to the Frisians. The land along the coast from the northern Netherlands up to Denmark is known as Frisia or Friesland. The native people were first mentioned in 12 BCE and speak Frisian, though not that many these days. The homes in the area are famous for their old-fashioned roofs known as “Reetgedecktes Häuser,” or thatched roofs made of reed.

A reed roof (thatch) in northwest Germany

Getting up close to the thatch roof is not to be missed. From the distance the roofs are beautiful, but up close to it, the details from the hollow reeds can really be appreciated. Where thatched roofs were once commonplace, today, they are nearly a mark of luxury. To build one is labor-intensive and I can’t imagine there are many craftspeople around who work on such roofs. Now I wonder how sound and weather-insulating they are; we’ll have to find a rental to stay in on a subsequent visit.

A thatched roof house in northwest Germany also known as a Reetgedecktes Haus

Older homes whose roofs have withstood the test of time or have so far avoided renovation can be an artwork in part crafted by the hand of nature. If you were wondering how fire retardant a dried reed roof might be, look no further than this healthy covering of moss that lives atop this house.

Caroline Wise standing in front of the Karolinenkoog sign in northwest Germany

Hey, did that sign read Karolinekook? I had to turn right around for a photo of that. Oh, it reads Karolinenkoog. So what the heck is a koog, and why Karoline? First of all, a koog is a polder; now that this is cleared up, I can move on to Karoline. Do you say you don’t know what a polder is? Well, neither did I. A polder (also known as a koog in German) is a low-lying area of land that is kept dry by a dike or was a former lake or sea bed. Karoline is in honor of Princess Caroline of Denmark (28 October 1793 – 31 March 1881). For me, the sign will always read CarolineKook.

Roadside toilet huts in northwest Germany

What’s a road trip without the need to stop at nearly every roadside toilet? It’s a trip without my wife. This outpost for the disposal of bodily waste is a marvel of modernity. The door is controlled by auto-locks. After the depositor has entered the facility, he or she has a set amount of time to take care of business before the auto-clean cycle convinces the user to get out or get cleaned up by the uncaring, unceremonious tools of auto-cleansing. And to make the toilet experience better for women, the left-side “pissoirs” are urinals for us men. The WC or water closets on the right are for more serious business and women. Inside, which I should have taken a photo of, there is no room for vandalism, and in any case, if the pissoir senses destruction of any part of the facility, the floor is covered in water, and the perpetrator is electrocuted.

On a narrow road separating some homes from the sea behind the dike on the left. In northwest Germany.

South of Tönning, we are about to have our first encounter with the dike system that keeps the North Sea at bay. We scrambled up the grassy hillside to look out into the gray murk of an overcast day. Not a lot to see when the horizon is obscured by mist and flatness that defies finding monuments or objects that allow one to orient oneself. No wonder it is recommended for people taking long hikes on the Wattenmeer to have a guide show them around. There are stories of people getting disoriented out on the mudflats as the tide comes in, which can end in disaster.

Sheep (four legged organic lawnmowers) standing on the dike ready to go to work at the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

Further down the road, we find another location that looks inviting, mostly because there were all these sheep hanging out, and my wife is nothing if not a sucker for the furry four-legged organic lawnmowers. Up the hill, and there it is, the mudflat and no sign of the sea.

Caroline Wise sans shoes out on the mud flat of the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

Of course, it would be Caroline who would have to dip her feet into the mud, maybe even some shallow water, if she could find it. As for me, well, my weight tells me that I’ll be ass-deep in sucking mud 1.6 seconds after placing myself in harm’s way. Caroline assures me that the mud is solid; I’ll take her word for it, but still opt to remain on the shore where I can snap photos from the dry comfort of land.

Caroline Wise's mud covered feet after walking in the Wattenmeer of northwest Germany

The fine, silty mud covers Caroline’s feet like hot fudge on ice cream. A smile likewise graces her face because she has now strode in the Wattenmeer. A nearby shower head and hose are available just for these occasions of cleaning one’s muddy feet, and we move to take advantage of the convenience. This is the first time during this trip that Caroline will voice that if we had to return to Frankfurt right now, she’d be happy with what we’ve already done. It’s great being married to someone who is so satisfied with such small things in life.

Caroline and John Wise stand before the sign announcing the World (Welt) in Germany

We now have proof that we have seen the world. The sign reading Welt behind us is German for World. Should there be any doubt that Caroline and I have seen the world, we can show any naysayers that it is true; we have, in fact, seen the World.

A beaver in a waterway near the Wattenmear of northwest Germany

The Watt (pronounced “Vot”) is a bird sanctuary, it is also home to other species that are being pushed out of Europe as humanity has continued to change the environment. The Wattenmeer itself exists due to people reclaiming the ocean floor and trying to manage lands that otherwise would be submerged. Beavers have done this for a millennium; today, they have little ground and river-ways left for their type of engineering. I do think we were pretty lucky today to see this guy heading for his hideaway.

A gaggle of geese perusing the grounds on the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

Thousands of birds and many species of various types call the 500km coastal region of the Wattenmeer home during migration periods. This gaggle of geese is making a pit stop on their trek north while skeins of others are seen overhead looking to do bird things I’m poor at interpreting.

The lighthouse in Westerhaver, Germany on the Wattenmeer

Our drive took us out on the far side of a peninsula jutting off of mainland Germany. We looked for every opportunity to visit the sea along the way. In Westerhever we spotted a lighthouse in the distance, time to schedule a visit. From the view of the dike, we thought we were satisfied and that this was good enough. Anyway, the people walking out to it were way over on our right, starting at the crowded parking lot I had turned my nose up to. Maybe we’ll just walk a short while to the right and see if the view improves. A little further and pretty soon, we are on the boardwalk. Is this far enough? Okay, just a bit further. Forty-five minutes later, we are at the lighthouse which does not offer tours but does have a toilet available. Oh yeah, on the horizon past the lighthouse, you are looking at mud; the tide is still out. When the tide is in these channels in the foreground are filled with water.

Sheep on the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

Sheep are everywhere on the dike system, as is evidence of their passing. A lot of sheep, and you find a lot of sheep poop but no fiber anywhere. Not even a lamb sandwich was found.

A lone black-headed seagull soaring by against a gray sky at the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

Shorebirds are not here in big numbers yet. The occasional black-headed gull swoops by, but the cacophonous sound of flocks of seagulls is not to be heard. I dream about being here on a quiet summer day when Caroline and I can have a stretch of the Wat to ourselves to watch the shorebirds work the mudflats and marshes.

A drainage canal on the Wattenmeer that helps preserve the land

These lands have been worked for centuries as people have wrestled with nature to keep the land they have carved out of the sea. This is one of the many drainages that are kept clear so the land drains as the tide goes out. In this way, the land isn’t washed away and serves as sheep pasture. Unfortunately, we could not be here at the Wattenmeer for both low and high tide.

Another thatched roof house at the Wattenmeer in northwest Germany

This photo is being used not because the old house was built in 1737 it’s because the photo of the windmill I took didn’t turn out all that nice. Mühle Catharina (The Catherine Mill) is a three-story rental property that sleeps eight right in the windmill! If you want to book it, as we do and hopefully will someday, it costs €165 per day (about $200) with a minimum 1-week stay required. Located in Witzwort, Germany, it is a perfect location for a week of biking the flatlands of the Wattenmeer and even making a day excursion to Hamburg or even Copenhagen, Denmark.

The harbor of Husum, Germany

In Husum, the sun is struggling to work its way past the clouds that have dogged us all day; it’s uncertain if it will win. Neither of us knows a thing about this city and so we find a parking spot and start walking right on over to a maritime museum.

An old ship wreck on display at the North Frisian Maritime Museum in Germany

We don’t hesitate to pay the small fee to enter the North Frisian Maritime Museum. Inside and downstairs (near the toilets) is the museum’s newest big display item: the Uelvesbüll shipwreck. Discovered in a side channel near a dike, the wreck is over 400 years old. We can walk right up to it, even reach over and smell the wood. To stop the decay once it was pulled from the silt, preservationists cured the wreck in a giant vat of sugar water. According to the info on display, the sugar crystals create a protective seal of the wood, and the technique is far cheaper than the alternatives. I’m enchanted with what history this small ship may hide and wish to know more. Being here is also a reminder that there may be many more maritime museums along the English, Irish, Danish, French, Dutch, Spanish, and Belgian coastlines; we need to move to Europe.

A cicada enclosure made of whale bone on display at the North Frisian Maritime Museum in Husum, Germany

Never seen a whalebone scrimshaw cicada enclosure before; heck, I’ve never seen a cicada enclosure of any type prior to this one. In the case of various scrimshaws was this one particular item that fascinated me enough to want one. Of Moorish influence, this work of art was carved around the year 1700. Does someone out there want to make a 3D print of it?

A device for measuring the speed of a water craft as measured in "knots" on display at the North Frisian Maritime Museum in Husum, Germany

Caroline is a font of information; some of it she keeps to herself because she thinks it’s common knowledge. Almost under her breath, she suggests I must obviously know what this thing is that we are looking at. Of course – not, I reply. Did you ever wonder where the term “knots” came from for measuring the speed of a boat? Neither had I, but my wife knew. By throwing out a line and measuring the knots tied into the rope, a seaman could estimate the speed they were traveling by counting the knots unspooling against a measure of time. Thus, a speed could be calculated.

Notes that had at one time been tied to the leg of a pigeon used for communication. On display at the North Frisian Maritime Museum in Husum, Germany

Tauben-Depesche – Pigeon Dispatch. These small notes were once rolled up and attached to the legs of carrier pigeons. If nothing else brings you to the North Frisian Maritime Museum, surely a now-historic note that was once carried by a small bird must nag at your curiosity. The great forgotten things we can find in museums. I think I need more time to explore the world’s hidden treasures.

Our last glance at the sea in Dagebüll, Germany

By the time we exited the museum, the sun had peeked through the clouds, and with its light, a multitude of sun-seekers filled the town square with the intention of having an ice cream. That sounds great to us and we join in with a visit to Janny’s for something called the Eis & Heiss (Hot and Cold). The concoction is made of hot cherries, chocolate syrup, cherry water, and ice cream, all topped with whipped cream. Trying to use all the daylight we can, we continue the drive north for another 45 km (28 miles) before pulling into Dagebüll and the Hotel Neuwarft for some dinner and sleep. The room was great and inexpensive. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant was also very good. All-in-all, it was a perfect day.

Frankfurt To Bad Soden

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

The day starts like our previous ones, up early with a cold gray sky peeking through the windows; when does winter end here? This will be the second time we’ve used our rather expensive rental car, although it was the cheapest we could find. A bit of warning to travelers to Europe: be sure you bring proof of international insurance coverage, add it to your policy, or just take the trains because it will cost you about $600 when you show up to pick up the car. As has been our routine, we go to see Jutta, but we’ll only visit once this day as we have a dinner date later in the day.

Badehaus (bath house) in Bad Soden, Germany

Having been away for so long, we have lost our ability to judge distances, and our memories tell us that Bad Soden is quite far away. Turns out that it’s really close. So close, in fact, that we arrive in town more than an hour early. No problem for us, we’ll just take a tour of the city center. Driving around to look for a starting point, we pass the old Badehaus (Bath House), and Caroline nearly yells for me to stop. Great, there’s a parking place right here in front of the park. The baths themselves appear to be gone, having been replaced with galleries. I say apparently because that half of the building is undergoing renovation, the other side is a library now. No matter, the grounds and buildings are beautiful. Not so nice is a fountain that offers some of the famous waters noted for their life-affirming qualities. Maybe others have a taste for heavily sulfured water, but my brain was having nothing to do with this idea of swallowing my small handful. Instead, instinct kicked in, forcing my mouth to disgorge the fetid-smelling, wretched-tasting stuff. I required a concerted effort to describe this without relying on vulgarities.

An old Fackwerkhaus (half timbered house) in Bad Soden, Germany

As we walked around, we noticed a trail going up a hillside, hoping for a view overlooking the town or even Frankfurt in the distance; we started the short hike upwards. At the top, there is an old brick tower, not of much purpose other than as a kind of monument, but to what we couldn’t figure out. We are also surrounded by trees, so there is no view to be had. Back down the hill, we passed the Badehaus on our way to the downtown area.

A monument noting those who died in World War's I and II from Bad Soden, Germany

We never made it downtown. On the way, Caroline spots a sign pointing to a small castle. Turns out not to be much of a castle at all, but more a large home, though not without bragging rights. A sign on the building lets us know that König Wilhelm I. Von Württenberg slept here in 1852; a König is a King. Not very impressed, as we’ve both seen real castles, we head back across the park. Along the way, nearly fully surrounded by trees, I spot a small monument with a soldier on top that notes the men who died during World War I and II who had come from Bad Soden. Having spent enough time wandering about, it was time to make our date.

Caroline Wise and Helga Hennemann in Bad Soden, Germany

On the way into town, we passed the street Helga lives on, and within just a few minutes, we’re back at that corner and parking the car. Caroline’s godmother lives on the fifth floor in a building without an elevator, and she’s in her early 70’s. I was surprised how, after the first 20 minutes the conversation and rapport started to work, and the time between visits started being erased. Helga is a fiercely independent, very interesting, strong-minded woman. Back when Caroline was 16 she had told her godmother how she never wanted to be a workaholic like Helga. Almost 30 years later Caroline can easily consider this woman as one of the single greatest influences on her own life. Helga never married, but that wasn’t due to a lack of interest in this successful woman, she was busy with her career and seeing the world, which she is currently still actively doing. Our meeting had to be sooner than later, as this weekend she is heading to Spain for a week away from it all, and then in July, she’s off to Rome. Over a fantastic dinner of roast duck breast with mixed veggies and potatoes, we toasted our reunion and talked until it was close to midnight. During the night, we learned much about Helga we didn’t know, such as her 40th birthday, where she rented an entire riverboat, invited 150 of her closest friends, hired a band, and cruised the Main River as she danced into the beginnings of her 40s. With recommendations of which art exhibits to pay attention to during our visit to Frankfurt and her request that we try and meet another time before we return to the States, we wished each other good night. Walking down the five flights of stairs, Caroline and I were all smiles as we felt that Helga could still be a great role model and mentor to not only her goddaughter but to me, too.