Traditions

Can you see the dichotomy between tradition and punk rock? Can you sense the metal nature of where we have landed? This is one of the hearts of Amish country, and I can feel the rebellion against conformity in much the same way I did when thrashing on the dance floor of a punk gig where, while slamming, we were tossing off the chains of expectation. Yeah, that’s what’s going on here; it’s in the air. When everyone else is cut from the same fabric of banality, those who are different become the leading edge of revolution.

When I was younger, I thought history was for a boring class of traditionalists stuck in a past in which stagnation was the signature of their intellectual malignancy, tilting into obedient stupidity. It turns out that moving with the times in America means following a pop culture where dictatorial programming pushes the chattel of humanity into consumption at the expense of self-discovery. Negating the toxic move away from traditional things like love, independence, and community, there are still pockets of Americans who understand the value of a lifestyle that doesn’t have to be a reflexive exercise in blind capitalism. So, does this place of tranquility and tradition now represent an ethos that better aligns with my lingering teenage idea of escaping society’s grotesque stupidity? Possibly.

Who knew that mid-70s angry John would slide into flower-loving, leaf-peeping, soft, and fuzzy John who finds greater value in nature and people who maintain traditions against the machine of disposable intelligence?

Elkhart, Indiana, and its surrounding communities are home to many an Amish family. Traditions are alive and well amongst these rural farmers and woodworkers who appear to have little in common with their modern neighbors. The Amish have no automobiles, do not use electricity in their homes, and apparently have no need for cell phones. What they do have is an independence few Americans can understand. Amish grow their own food on land they own, clear of a mortgage that has been plowed by hand with the help of what animals they own. They sell food and handmade furniture in nearby communities, which gives them the cash to purchase particular basics and the fabrics used to make their own clothes if they don’t weave them themselves.

There are no electricity, cable, gas, or credit card bills cluttering their mailboxes. Their vehicles are simple but distinctive black wooden affairs drawn by horses, or they ride a bicycle. Life for the Amish is much the way life has been during the previous centuries since America’s inception, except for the tourists driving through in their cars, gawking, and taking photos as though the Amish were a curiosity in the zoo. Throughout this burgeoning cultural hegemon trying to engulf them, they’ve never capitulated, and to me, that’s a toughness of resolve I can admire.

Now, back up, John, this isn’t a trip of socio-political observations; you are here to admire the beauty of the countryside, so get back to that. Quilts and family-style binge dining must be part of this day, and dropping in on an Amish gift shop would have been a wish by the wife; food will be my wish.

I should point out that I’m fully incompatible with the lifestyle experienced here and at other Amish locations across this area of America as I do not possess the requisite religious beliefs that would allow my integration within this community, but that doesn’t mean I can’t respect the efforts it must take to buttress the encroachment of modernity. Idealistically, I look upon this scene and wish to find my way in, but the die that’s been cast, which paints me as a cynical hedonist, is far too long-established to break out of my trajectory.

I suppose this husband and wife then are quite similar to me and my wife: we go about our routine that’s been normalized for our circumstances. They may be in a good or a bad relationship, just like any other number of couples, but I don’t think that a situation that requires them to dress to community conformity and saddle up their horses is really any different than us meeting the clothing expectations of a corporate entity and our stopping at the gas station to fuel up to ensure we arrive at work on time.

One might argue that these religious communities are indoctrinating each successive generation, but then I’d ask, how is this different than my upbringing in Los Angeles watching the Munsters, eating Lucky Charms because the ad was exciting, and wanting to be the next Joe Namath because others around me were elevating this American football hero onto a pedestal? When it comes right down to it, does anyone in our society live outside the norm of their narrow socio-economic order? We can ask ourselves, does this man love his son and want what’s best for him, or has he relegated that role to electronic devices that influence his child more than a paternal relationship ever will?

The Amish don’t require state-sanctioned approval to operate these buggies. There are no federal mandates regarding safety features, fuel economy, or even how old you have to be to operate one. Children as young as eight years old are allowed to drive a buggy, which sure does offer them an interesting level of autonomy to visit friends on adjacent farms or run an errand. I don’t mean to imply that somehow life is ideal out here or that the Amish have found a kind of super-enlightenment; I think I’m trying to reconcile my own bias as to what it means to be free.

Even the horses of the Amish are nice and polite compared to many of the skittish horses we encounter in other corners of the states. Has anyone ever noticed that there don’t seem to be any dogs on Amish farms?

I wish that this had been my go-kart when I was a kid.

I really don’t have anything to add to this photo other than I liked it enough to want to include it.

Amish father and son riding a plow being dragged by work horses in the Elkhart area of northern Indiana

I thought we’d be ignored while we were touristing our way through these Amish lands as I was certain that farmers and inhabitants were stared at all the time, but time and again, people were staring back, likely curious why anyone else would want to point their cameras at people who were just going about their lives.

I’ve tried figuring out if these are Amish or Mennonite girls but have come up blank unless gangland dress in the Elkhart area has taken a turn towards wholesomeness.

From the north-central part of Indiana, we took off for the western edge of the state adjacent to Indianapolis for a night in Rockville, which appeared centrally located to a bunch of covered bridges, but somehow, we ended up arriving during Indiana’s largest annual festival that is centered right here in Rockville, and maybe you’ve guessed that it’s the Parke County Covered Bridge Festival focused on the area’s 31 historic bridges. With everything booked, we went on a frantic search for any available room, which proved pricey when we finally found a place in Crawfordsville, nearly 30 miles away.

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Staying at the edge of the water demanded we wake before sunrise to see our star rise over Saint Mary River. Regarding the city we stayed in called Sault Ste. Marie, notice that we are on the Saint Marie (Mary) River, and the Sault part of the name is from an obsolete word that is used to describe rapids. [I’m going to go out on a limb and say that it is related to the English word somersault – Caroline] It was those rapids between Lake Superior and Lake Huron that necessitated the locks that were built here.

A timelapse video would probably best depict the action of one of these massive ships passing through the locks, but I’m shooting photos, and this ship in the early sunlight will have to suffice.

Oh yeah, we are still leaf-peeping.

We pulled over near St. Ignace at the lower end of the eastern Upper Peninsula to look up at this strange rock outcropping called Castle Rock that is now used as an observation point to look out over Lake Huron. We’ll have to make a note of it and move on.

We are about to cross the Mackinac Bridge, which is currently the third-longest suspension bridge in the world. At home, looking at my photos taken that day from the Father Marquette National Memorial, I was perplexed as to why the bridge looked so short compared to the photo of the same bridge, two images below. I finally figured out that I had used my 70-200mm lens to shoot this photo at 140mm, which shrunk the space between the foreground and background. Just wait till you see how long it really is.

We turned eastward to follow the Lake Huron lakeshore. Caroline once more shed her shoes and lept into the water, or maybe she just gently strode in? With Lake Huron in the bag, so to say, we have now visited all of the Great Lakes and the Saint Lawrence Seaway. To Caroline’s bragging rights, she has stood in the waters of the Great Lakes, the Pacific, the Atlantic, and the Gulf; rivers include the Colorado, Little Colorado, Snake, Mississippi, Columbia, Yellowstone, Ohio, Klamath, Missouri, Rogue, St. Croix, the Animas and many a smaller but no less significant waterway across America.

That bridge that looked a bit short is actually 26,372 feet long, or just a hair shy of 5 miles! From this spot on the lake, we headed 20 miles southeast to Cheboygan before turning west to reach the west side of the state.

Going through Google’s Streetview, these streets look like any other streets but bordered with these bursts of color, the roads take on wholly new qualities that propel the views into something extraordinary.

Over on the western side of the state, we are back at the shore of Lake Superior.

We are moving south with an objective referenced in the title of this blog. Along the way, we’ll be passing some beautiful towns, ones I stopped at with my mother a few years before. As I’ve not recovered from that trauma yet, and I desire this trip to be uniquely Caroline’s and mine, we are bypassing Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Traverse City in order to take in more nature.

Witness this humble seagull of Charlevoix that is nothing at all like the intolerable snobs found in town. Contrary to the elitists that pollute the nearby intellectual and cultural waters of a beautiful space, this lowly seagull adds to the sense of wildness, and while it might shit on us, it isn’t an intentional act committed in the yawning ignorance of someone who fashions themselves as better than others due to their fortunate economic perch.

Driving next to Grand Traverse Bay.

Passing through Maple City.

Shetland School from 1871 near Maple City, Michigan

This former one-room schoolhouse, built in 1871, must be one of the most photographed buildings in this part of Michigan. It is now a private residence.

This little outpost near Maple City is called Michigan Traders, and for the fall season, they are hosting The Ugly Tomato Farm Market; if Caroline’s memory is correct, which it often is, this is the first place we ever tried the famous Honeycrisp apple.

Just out of Maple City in the direction of Glen Arbor is another opportunity for us to use our coveted National Park Pass, the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

It’s already late in the day upon our arrival, meaning exhibits and the visitor center are already closed for the day, no matter, as at least we’ll gather some impressions of the park anyway.

We meander along the narrow roads, waiting for the sand dunes to make an appearance.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

And here they are starting to emerge near the water’s edge.

Sunset from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore overlooking Lake Michigan

In the eight years since we began these haphazard journies through America, we have never failed to be amazed at the sights and people we have met along the way. I can no longer tell you how many times we have sat at a precipice, hillside, forest, sand dune, trail, or roadway and watched yet another golden sunset fill us with oohs and aahs.

Just moments after I had taken the previous photo, we walked towards another vantage point. What you could not see in the setting sun was that the wind was howling. If you look at the grass here, you will see it blowing to the right, and the white fuzziness over the bright spot is a thin layer of blowing sand.

In the little town of Honor, Michigan, across from Long Lake, we pulled up a couple of seats at the Manitou restaurant before driving a few more miles south to stay in Frankfort…you know, like Frankfurt?

Tree Tunnels & Blueberries

Copper Harbor, Michigan

“Seek and ye shall find” paves the way to a moment of “lo and behold,” and a vision of beauty enshrouds us. I can’t say that we intentionally focus on finding the gorgeous corners of our world, but then again, we really don’t make much effort at all to focus on cities where the toil of work makes monsters of people who forget or never knew the calming effect of being in places where tranquility is a drug for those who can locate a frequency aligned to its prescription.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Dawn over serenity is a destination afforded only to the few whose constitution demands a refreshing cleansing of the grime that accumulates during the drudgery of trading time for money, though there is no greater truth in our modern world that money equates to being able to afford the discovery that takes one places, often deep within.

Leaving Copper Harbor, Michigan

The roads to external and internal beauty find their starts at different junctions in our lives. One path begins with a word, the next with a book. Maybe a sunrise alights the spark where the journey into early light takes hold of the eye and imagination, suggesting that there is something else at work aside from the simple repetition of a planet circling a nearby star. Here on the Upper Peninsula, the literal beginning of a path slices down an entire country, and while interesting as a whole, we’ll experience but the tiniest of fractions during our journey of it. Like a great book where we are limited to only reading the first chapter, we’ll be denied what the rest of the story delivers.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Our drive this morning is effectively navigating a tree tunnel as it wends its way south out of Copper Harbor; within moments, we gasp at the profundity of autumnal beauty. Surely, we should have anticipated seeing this rainbow of color, but the dense layers of foliage juxtaposed against the woods and asphalt brought us beyond even our wildest dreams.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

It is as though the strings of the orchestra are focused on creating a symbiosis between the melancholic and the ecstatic as we are simultaneously elated and emotionally fragile that, for some incomprehensible reason, this is all ours to experience. The musicians of the forest perform for us and us alone, where are the others?

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Notes from a felted piano touch the delicate soft places of emotion that seem to guide the rustling of leaves saturated in the hues of autumn while the heartstrings of John and Caroline synchronize with the speed of the landscape pulsing in attraction to pull us in.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

The visual magnificence of this play of light has touches of brilliance and surprise that, while they might be a composite of different sights gathered on other days, stand unique in their performance that will only be offered at these exact moments where we were present to accept the song and theater of nature.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Maybe all of this should have remained in the furtive clutch of hidden memories as it is an absurdity to consider that these feeble words will weave together the threads of a narrative that can share how the two of us bring images of sea and sky, the sounds of elation and noise, words of enlightenment and imagination, and the joys of love and anguish to define the overflowing romantic sense of being in such a place that largely defies explanation.

Driving south on US-41 on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Later we came to learn of our extraordinary good fortune of being at the right place at the right time as we were told that we were witnessing a record year for leaf peepers during peak color change. And as beautiful as it truly was, later in the day, someone asked if we had driven the Brockway Mountain road that allegedly puts this tree tunnel to shame; we had not. Upon leaving Copper Harbor, we had seen the turnoff but knew not where it led or what it might behold. No matter, as we are so entranced with the natural beauty of the Upper Peninsula that we are sure to return many times to these moments.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Then, after the infinity spent in the delirium of total saturation, we are again at what appears to be the sea, though, in fact, it is merely a lake but of such depth that it too has a song that resonates within us as so many other places of great beauty.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

On our way to Gay, Michigan, we passed a lady rummaging on the roadside. My unabashed curiosity demanded I stop the car, followed by a quick reverse while lowering the window, and an inquiry as to what she was looking for.

Wild blueberries found off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Cranberries were what the lady was hunting and she kindly offered to show us where to look. With Caroline kneeling down next to our amateur botanist, I spotted what looked like blueberries and asked what they were. After mentioning that the local cranberries are a sour type, requiring cooking and a good dose of sweetener, she tells us that the little blueberries are yummy wild blueberries and perfectly edible.

Caroline Wise picking Wild blueberries off Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We spent the next hour collecting a bag full of these wild treats. Over the next three days, we rationed this peninsular treasure, enjoying its near-winter sweetness while relishing our great fortune yet again and basking in the memory of picking berries next to Lake Superior.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

We could have gone in any number of directions up in the Copper Harbor area, but compromises are always required when exploring new lands and new terrains of experience and so we go forward to wherever that forward might take us. Had we remained in the autumnal heavens of tree tunnels, we’d have never discovered the things we hadn’t imagined were out here.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

The atmosphere weighs heavily upon the waters of Earth as gravity works to contain that liquid domain within boundaries ordained by the nature of our planet. We stride over these surfaces with the intention of finding something of meaning that remains mysterious and elusive, but that doesn’t squash the curiosity of these two people who seem to intuitively understand that something magical is right in front of our senses. Is it the white froth of the waves, that large mossy rock there on the shore, or the trunk of a tree gripping its tiny corner on land above the depths? It must certainly be everything and nothing, as even in the dark sky, our minds are looking for patterns that might offer answers to the unknowns.

Gay Lac La Belle Road Eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Oh my…it’s a scene mimicking our very lives. At the edge of the shifting sands of time, we hold fast in a tenuous grip of our place within it, but at any moment, we might succumb to the battering energy of life that laps at our fragile existence

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Gay Bar in Gay, Michigan

But everything changes once we hit the Gay Bar. Seriousness and discovery give way to debauchery and humor. We have arrived in Gay, Michigan, population unknown, though obviously fluctuating due to those bent on visiting a gay bar at least once in their lives. Souvenirs are, as you’d expect, Gay-themed and bawdy. Lunch was perfect after ordering a footlong hotdog, allowing visitors to brag about having had 12 inches in the Gay Bar.

Fish Bail vending machine in Gay, Michigan

Beyond my juvenile prurient humor, it was this bait vending machine outside the Gay Bar that really attracted Caroline’s attention. Hopefully, she can add just why it was so interesting to her.

[I just couldn’t believe there would be such a thing as a live bait vending machine. Food, drink, underwear, we’ve all seen (or heard of) those machines, but live bait? Too bad we didn’t check the price. In hindsight, we could have bought some and fed fish somewhere – Caroline]

Deer on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Somebody forgot their lawn ornament next to the road.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

I’m speechless about seeing even more of these colors, or maybe I have just run out of words that will convey anything else.

Leef peeping on the Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Yep, red, yellow, orange leaves, and me in awe; nothing else exists right now.

Quincy Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan on the Upper Peninsula

Exploring the Quincy Stamping Mill ruin near Mason, Michigan, and also paid visits to the Quincy Smelting Works and Quincy Mine Museum further down the road. But hey, that sounds interesting; where are the photos? The gargantuan chore of assembling all these materials 16 years after we took this journey (it’s February 18, 2022, as I write this) is already an undertaking of a scale I don’t want to make larger. When I’m done with the nine days we were here in America’s mid-west, I’ll have pushed the original brief single photo posts, each with about 180 words of text to something containing between 25 – 35 photos and about 1,000 words each.

Random sign on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Fulfilling Caroline’s dreams and ensuring I don’t have regrets, we stopped at a yarn store somewhere after the mining museum, but where that was exactly and what its name might have been are lost in time. Regarding these roadside all-American signs extolling the virtues, typically religious, of the community or of the kind of morals people should live by, Caroline has been enchanted with them for years since first laying eyes on them.

Mt. Shasta Restaurant in Michigamme, Michigan

While we stopped for dinner, our hopes were dashed as the kitchen had already closed, but the OPEN sign hadn’t been turned off yet. As luck would have it, our stop wasn’t for naught as this location on the side of the road across from Lake Michigamme was full of history that was pointed out by the person informing us we wouldn’t be eating walleye here tonight. The Mt. Shasta restaurant played a role in the 1959 Oscar-nominated film Anatomy of a Murder starring Jimmy Stewart, Lee Remick, and Eve Arden.

Caroline Wise at Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming, Michigan

Still a half-hour from Marquette, where we’d stay the night and obviously still hungry, we found the Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming was open; time to eat, as who could know if anything was open further up the road.

The Upper Peninsula

Bonshell Cafe in Hurley, Wisconsin

Writing a decade after the events that occurred over these fall days, I’m offered the opportunity not to write with certainty about those things that passed but of impressions that might have influenced me combined with the person I am now. I confront the images that still linger in the back of my mind that I’m moving to these pages with the hope I can interpret them as though I were seeing them for the first time while simultaneously wanting to believe they are still fresh in my memory.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Ironwood, Michigan

I forgot to share in yesterday’s post that we arrive on the Upper Peninsula, a.k.a. the U.P., as it is known to those living up here. Last night, as we passed through Hurley, Wisconsin, before entering Ironwood just across the border, we spotted the Bonshell Cafe that opens at 5:30 in the morning; that sounded good to us. It turned out to be a favorite stop for hunters looking for pie and ice cream with a beer at the break of dawn; whatever happened to bacon, eggs, and coffee? We learned that even more popular than pie a la mode is the traditional U.P. pasty (pronounced pass-tea). We had a breakfast pasty, but try as I might, I wasn’t able to convince Caroline to have a pre-lunch beer, which, according to legend, would have qualified her as a real Yooper.

Caroline Wise standing under Hiawatha, World's Largest Indian Statue in Ironwood, Michigan

Right here in Ironwood on Burma Avenue stands Hiawatha, at 52 feet, the world’s largest Indian statue. Look at Caroline between his feet for scale.

On the way to Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

We are on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, looking for the sights a scenic byway can deliver: more of the colors of fall and some waterfalls that are showing up on the map.

On the way to Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

These colors are so incredibly enchanting while dramatically altering the appearance of the landscape. Researching the paths we took on this long-forgotten journey deep into the U.P., Caroline was tracing potential routes on Google Maps, and when the trees are all green, the roads are missing some essential character we were able to experience on our introduction to this corner of America.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

You are looking at the relatively calm waters of the Black River and specifically the Potawatomi Falls. I probably took about 30 photos between here and the foot of the falls, and this was the best of the lot; maybe my photography game was off, or I was too distracted by my hunt for orange and red leaves.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

It always seems like a good idea to photograph the trails we are walking on because they play a significant role in how our journeys to beautiful places come about, but then, compared to the big iconic ultimate destination, they can pale in what they lend to things. All the same, if we were able to be magically transported to this exact spot some Arizona summer day when we’re withering under the brutal sun attempting to kill us, we’d gladly land right here again.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Crying elves scampering over the landscape left proof of their existence, and while I don’t typically taste another creature’s body fluids, I couldn’t help but taste these tears of the elves. Contrary to my expectation they’d be salty, they tasted sweet and earthy.

Caroline Wise on trail at the Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

This woman here is sweet and earthy, too. I hope you like how I set that up 🙂

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Hmm, is this the Gorge part of the Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls here in the Ironwood area?

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

We are following a trail for another look at the falls.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

And here’s that view of those fairytale-looking falls and the primary attractors of those elves I mentioned above; such is the magic found in enchanted forests.

Potawatomi and Gorge Waterfalls in Ironwood, Michigan

Like I said, enchanting.

Apples on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, Michigan

Roadside fruit begging to be pilfered had its wishes granted and while memory is a funny thing often full of holes, I’ll venture that we thought they were nothing less than stellar.

Deer on the Black River National Forest Scenic Byway, Michigan

Good thing we were only out here hunting with our eyes and the camera as this smallish deer would have been easily picked off, not that we ever hunt with weapons or even eat venison much.

Randall Bakery in Wakefield, Michigan

Since 1944, Randall Bakery has been serving up pasties on the Upper Peninsula right here in Wakefield.

Pastie from Randall Bakery in Wakefield, Michigan

Not exactly a culinary masterpiece (not that it’s supposed to be), it’s a utility food easily packed away in a bag for a day of fishing or a night of hunting; such is the character of this portable Cornish Pasty loaded with meat and potato. Eating in a location where this is a common staple makes it special.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Heading north on Country Road 519 with a destination in mind.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Here we are in the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness out looking for waterfalls.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

If fast-moving tannin-stained water, tinted by rotting forest debris, sounds interesting to you, the waterways around the Great Lakes seem to be the perfect location for finding just that.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

While visually stunning, I’d not be so bold to be quick in the tasting of amber-colored water.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This is not overkill to include so many photos of rushing water or, as you are about to see below, more of the colorful leaves of fall; it is the pleasure of indulgence reminding the two of us who experienced such sights that the Gods of Good Fortune were smiling at us this day and only us as nobody else on earth saw things quite the way we did, where we did, and when we did.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This is the point in the narrative, after bringing some 900 words to bear that I’d like to gently put down the keyboard and start the soundtrack of ambient sounds that would guide you through the rest of the post.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

Just kick back and listen to the quiet sounds of the rustling leaves and faint songs of birds in the distance.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

This exercise becomes a meditation where nature lulls us into a kind of hypnosis, and we start vibing in the realm of chill until we reach a crescendo of wow.

Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

The wow we saw with our eyes will never be conveyed in a photo, but the impact on our imaginations was solidly cemented here on this knob overlooking Lake of the Clouds.

Porcupine Mountain Wilderness, Michigan

If you told me that Caravaggio had set this up as inspiration for a tiny corner in one of his paintings, I wouldn’t have any reason to doubt you.

Off Highway 26 south of Houghton, Michigan

More leaves of fall added to this sequence with other leaves of fall make for a cascade of colors in patterns I can’t be certain I’ll ever experience again during my lifetime, and so I must embrace as many as I can.

Bald Eagle off Highway 26 south of Houghton, Michigan

With the abundance of riverways and lakes dotting the landscape, the bald eagle has the luxury as a permanent resident to take up a perch that suits it, knowing food is always around the corner.

Caroline Wise north of Hancock, Michigan

Speaking of food around the corner, after passing through Hancock, we came upon this food stand owned and operated by the 10-year-old girl seen taking Caroline’s order. Just kidding, the kid was working free as an indentured servant to pay off her parent’s debts. Illegal child labor on the Upper Peninsula is a serious concern…in the minds of idiots, meaning everything I wrote, other than stopping here for some fish, was a lie.

Highway 41 Upper Peninsula, Michigan

Oh my god, more leaves.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Phoenix, Michigan

Hey Dorothy, are we back in Kansas, er, um, I mean Arizona??? “John, you dolt, my name is Caroline, and this is Phoenix, Michigan!”

Copper Harbor, Michigan

Yay, if the sun is low in the sky, our day is coming to a close, and the need to continue blathering on about things will end soon.

Copper Harbor, Michigan

We are in Marquette on Lake Superior for the night. Of the details that might have been had, they are long gone aside from our general location. So, with that, I conclude this blog post allowing me to pursue writing about the 4th day of this journey into distant memories.

Still Dyeing

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Blue, Arizona

Having a couple of hours early in the day to explore this isolated corner of Arizona before Caroline’s workshop gets underway has been great, and with the relatively cool weather, it’s all the better.

Blue, Arizona

Out in the woods, we can linger under the kind of shade cactus fail to offer. Trees are welcoming of hugs, while cacti demand distance. Cactus takes root in the arid, hostile ground that snakes and lizards find attractive compared to trees that find symbiosis with grasses, small plants, bushes, flowers, and furry creatures. Caroline and I are comfortable transitioning between the biomes, but by spending much of our time in a desert, these forestlands become enchanting in ways that leave deep impressions.

Blue, Arizona

And where meadows open up, and the uninterrupted sky reappears, we breathe in the fresh air and pinch ourselves that this is our good fortune.

Blue, Arizona

Okay, that was enough nature, back to the trailer park.

Blue, Arizona

This is our cozy bed with our familiar bedding, which includes pillowcases handmade by Mrs. Crafty Wise herself.

Blue, Arizona

If there’s yarn around, there must be a cat somewhere. Well, there’s also a dog out here that comes to our front door in the morning and lounges around the workshop area on his back, inviting belly rubs. Yep, things are that chill out on the Blue.

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Today, the yarn that was dyed yesterday is wound into a ball and then split into tiny sample skeins for all attendees.

Caroline Wise attending a Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Caroline is seen here operating a ball winder that pulls the yarn from the swift that holds a skein.

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Taking samples of the yarns the students have created, they are creating documentation of the processes and attaching small pieces of yarn to the page for references as to how they achieved their results.

Lunch in Blue, Arizona

As this long weekend getaway and workshop is all about my wife, I’m honoring that by feeding her the kind of foods she enjoys, and that would be those of the vegetarian type. A big salad is one of Caroline’s favorites.

Blue, Arizona

A mid-day rain is not a big surprise in August as it’s monsoon season here in Arizona. Good thing I didn’t plan on driving anywhere because one needs to cross a wash to get to the road.

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

This is like the mixed grill of dyed yarns in the form of a pot of color.

Janie the host of the Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

When Janie is not dyeing yarns with various plant materials, she’s using these in her primary work which is tapestry weaving. As a matter of fact, in less than two weeks after this retreat in the mountains, we’ll be heading back this way to Alpine, Arizona, for a workshop about tapestry weaving, and as luck would have it, Sandy is signed up for that, too.

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Cooking up some red yarn…

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

…before turning the attention to the purple stuff.

Sandy and Caroline Wise attending a Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Rinse, soak, and repeat using a cool, old, repurposed washing machine from a different age.

Dyeing Workshop in Blue, Arizona

Iterations of a theme.

John Wise in Blue, Arizona

This attitude comes from the TOTAL LACK OF MEAT on this grill. Seriously, how am I supposed to survive on grilled beets, zucchini, and corn? No cracks about living off the meat belt around my mid-section, which I swear is not fat.

Beard Be Gone

Caroline Wise, Sonal Patel, and John Wise in Pheonix, Arizona July 18, 2008

Every 10 years curiosity grabs hold of me and I wonder what my face looks like under the beard and so it was upon coming home this evening that I reached for the beard trimmer and a razor and cut the hair from my face. NO – I do not like seeing myself this way. Something is missing. I feel as though I look like everyone else. Worse, it feels like a stranger is looking back at me from the mirror. This week will have been the last time before 2018 that I will shave. A great aspect of not shaving is the freedom from taking a razor-sharp piece of cold steel to my throat every day and scraping my face raw. I love my beard. Long live the beard.