North Carolina to Tennessee

Biscuit Head in Asheville, North Carolina

We were told that Biscuit Head for breakfast was popular but not 20-minute-line popular. Was the wait worth it? Of course, it was. After we ate, it was time to get on the road for a bit of driving.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Tennessee state line with North Carolina

This is where things get sketchy in our photographic history because it appears I only shot three photos all day. I had my DSLR with me, and on other days, you can see the black strap on my shoulder, but searching high and low we do not find any other photos of this trip. While I may have opted for the convenience of my smartphone to snap the majority of the photos, it just doesn’t seem possible that on such a beautiful day that took us from North Carolina over to Tennessee into Gatlinburg and back into the Smoky Mountains that I wouldn’t have any other images from the day. So it goes, at least I have this one of us in front of the state which I should point out that the “e” on Cocke County is silent.

The Admiral restaurant in Asheville, North Carolina

A break from the rush into BBQ with a luxurious dinner at a place called The Admiral. On the left are frog legs, and on the right are sweetbreads (pancreas chunks). Whatever we had for our main course is lost in time, like the details of our daylight hours wandering around a National Park and another state. One thing I’m certain of is that we surely had a great day.

North Carolina

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina

On my shoulder is my Canon DSLR with an amazing lens that wouldn’t have been out of focus with the blown-out sunlight over the left of my head, but I was feeling lazy and decided to shoot this entire trip with the camera in my phone that while it was okay for Facebook is shit for my blog. Oh well, some blurry reminders are better than none at all.

I’m posting this two years after we made this momentous trip that would have serious implications regarding a change in direction in my life, more of that as the blog entry progresses.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina

This was our second visit to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park but our first visit to the absolute southern end of the park. These chickens had southern drawls and tasted like pork; it was the weirdest thing.

Caroline Wise at Luella's BBQ in Asheville, North Carolina

Guess what we had for dinner? BBQ, that’s what we had! By the time we got back to Arizona, we likely were emanating smoke from this meat indulgence themed around the smoker. Tonight’s meal was at Luella’s BBQ in Asheville, North Carolina, where we will stay and call home for the next few days.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Firestorm Bookstore in Asheville, North Carolina

Amazingly smart bookstore and coffee shop here in Asheville called Firestorm. By the time we were done shopping here during our stay, we’d leave with at least half a dozen books and a sticker for the computer slung over my shoulder. It’s great to be on vacation, and it’s our first in six months, which is nearly a lifetime measured in John and Caroline years.

Island Life – Day 14

Ocracoke, North Carolina

It was raining when sunrise was supposed to welcome us to the day, so instead of venturing out right away, we used the opportunity to repack in anticipation of tomorrow’s flight home. It happens quite often that this act of preparation happens a day or so early so we don’t feel pressured by everything else that has to happen on a fly day. Over in the breakfast nook, we took some time to hang out and chat with some other guests, waiting for the weather to clear.

Once we did get going, we drove back up the island in search of a beach to explore, but it turns out that Ocracoke is not really made for parking cars, and we’re not made for rain. Okay, Caroline is, but I can’t risk walking somewhere I might dissolve.

Ocracoke Lighthouse in Ocracoke, North Carolina

There are no tours open to the public here at the Ocracoke Lighthouse, so we must admire it from outside. No complaints, though, as we’ve already seen so many others while we’ve been here in the Eastern United States.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

Finally a parking lot, bathrooms, and even a boardwalk instead of the more common off-road vehicle access.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

Our plan is to catch the last ferry back to the mainland at 12:30, so all there is to do is hang out and walk along the ocean.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

The wind blows, and we just keep walking along.

Caroline Wise in the Atlantic on Ocracoke, North Carolina

Until Caroline can no longer resist the urge to doff the shoes and claim the Atlantic Ocean in North Carolina as her own.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

I’d swear we’d seen these exact pelicans over in Santa Barbara, California, last year, but Caroline is certain that we’ve never seen the lead pelican, so maybe I’ll concede that one. The other two bringing up the rear, though; I know those birds for sure.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Ocracoke, North Carolina

These two birds also seem familiar, especially the blue-collared booby on the left.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

We found some nice specimens of seashells along the ocean, along with a pristine shell that Caroline pointed out was a whelk.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

Our ferry is late due to a pilot dealing with a dead battery, but it will be here, we are assured.

Ocracoke, North Carolina

The ride across the channel is nearly 2.5 hours, which not only affords us the entertainment of feeding the birds that are flying along with the bread a lady is sharing with us but there’s also the opportunity for me to grab a nap. Caroline tried to sleep a bit but was too distracted by all the things that were far more interesting than the back of her eyelids.

We landed in Swanquarter, North Carolina, and by now, we were hungry but there was nothing out this way. By the time we reached Jamesville, we spotted Mackey’s Ferry Peanuts, and this being North Carolina, we were certain we’d score some more boiled peanuts; sure enough, we did, but we got a whole lot more.

Chris is the owner of this peanut stand (it’s a lot bigger than a peanut stand!), and not only did he give us an enthusiastic recommendation for Shaw’s Barbecue House over in Williamston, but he taught us how to make boiled peanuts:

  • Soak peanuts overnight in water
  • Pressure cook using 3 cups of salt per 5 pounds of peanuts for an hour
    or put them in a slow cooker and cook on high for 12 hours
  • Add more water and let sit overnight

The rest of the day was spent driving to Hagerstown, Maryland, our pit stop, on the way back to Pittsburgh.

Chesapeake to Ocracoke- Day 13

You might think a grey, overcast day would put a damper on our enjoyment, but that’s not so. Oh sure, photos of landscapes are mostly better when shot under blue skies, but I blame poor photos on the lack of skills of the photographer. Then again, I also wonder why I even care how someone else might perceive our day as somehow tragic since we had to “endure” the weather. Maybe it’s all tied up in our superficial obsession with beauty and brand where everything must be wrapped in perfection, and if it’s not, we should feel sorry for those not able to participate in those luxuries. Well, come rain or shine, we are ready to move down the road and up the trail.

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

The last time we encountered the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel, it was under the dark of night; today, it is under the kinda darkish cover of heavy clouds. So, what’s the bright side of this? Considering that Caroline was born and raised in Germany and that I was raised in Los Angeles, how many people from Germany should be so lucky to travel this bridge and tunnel system twice in their lifetime, and for that matter, how many from Los Angeles will venture out this way?

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

Just above this tunnel entrance is the Virginia Originals & Chesapeake Grill where we had breakfast because how often does one have the opportunity to eat on a manmade island?

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

Into the bowels of the earth – one must wonder, with all that water above our heads, are there any leaks down here?

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the North Carolina State line

Why it took four hours to travel 77 miles is beyond me; maybe Caroline needed the toilet a lot, as we know how women are. Just kidding, Caroline actually has a bladder that can compete with anybody. I’ve made her wait hours as I inconsiderately accidentally kept missing places we could have pulled over, and she barely made a squeak about how horrible a person I am as she was raging in pain. Come to think about it, I’ll bet a dollar Caroline will groan when she reads that I’m sharing her toilet habits with the larger world.

Stopping in Virginia Beach at Java Surf to try the butter pecan espresso probably didn’t help in my need to write about the frequency of peeing, but that’s what we did, though that was a while ago. Here at the North Carolina border, we stopped at the Southland Gas Station and Barbecue. This might be a first for us where gas and barbecue are had at the same stop. We did not have much hope for anything exceptional, but by the crowd inside this joint, we should have known we were in for a treat. “Wow!” is the best description of how amazing North Carolina BBQ done right can be, and for the first time ever, we found how much we can love vinegar-based BBQ sauce.

I know exactly what you’re going to think about now: “Are these two like a couple of Vielfraß when they travel?” Well, we kind of are exactly that. We are trying to think of the boiled peanuts as dessert. In any case, we have to take advantage of these little luxuries as they happen, as over in Arizona, we won’t find boiled peanuts for a thousand miles. As for the Vielfraß thing (pronounced feel-fros), it’s a wolverine in German, but in the context of talking about food, it’s a thing that gobbles up its food wherever it can find it in an urgent and frantic way. This has been our German word lesson of the day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

We were warned to avoid “French Fry Alley” as the area from Kitty Hawk to Nags Head is known to some locals. The pejorative nature of the connotation turns out to be quite accurate as there is an air about this area that smacks of Atlantic City and Daytona Beach and attracts the lowest common denominator of subhuman troglodytes. My snobbish tastes definitely lean more towards Bar Harbor, Maine, New Bedford, Massachusetts, Cannon Beach, and Yachats in Oregon and other places that are quiet, civilized, and missing most of the vulgarity of people who reluctantly become tourists in the pursuit of an ideal instead of an experience.

The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

The museum here at the Wright Brothers National Memorial at Kill Devil Hills down the road from Kitty Hawk is okay, but the narrow roads with no pull-outs were not designed for people who want to pause along the drive to get out for a walk or take photos. We also notice there are no bike or hiking trails out here, what kind of park is this?

Caroline Wise at The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

The woman in the gift/book shop was downright rude, sealing our experience as being horrible, which is a first in a national park or monument. But enough of this blemish as we can simply move on.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Cape Hatteras National Seashore at Nags Head, North Carolina

Don’t get the idea we were in any way discouraged as we knew that lighthouses were coming up, and one of them is likely the most famous on earth. We are at Cape Hatteras National Seashore south of French Fry Alley and a million miles of culture away from all of that. I’m not sure, but I think our smiles help brighten the overcast sky.

Bodie Island Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

The Bodie Island Lighthouse is our first stop on Highway 12 South. This icon has been operational since 1848, and while tours are available, we opt to use our shortening time out here to visit the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse and maybe come back someday to visit this one.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, built back in 1870, looks like it hasn’t been painted since then, but from a distance, you’d never know. We’re thrilled to be here, so much so that Caroline splurged in the gift shop and bought a pendant of the lighthouse that she’ll cherish for years into the future.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

Of course, we are climbing the 268 steps to the top.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

Here, we are standing atop this 137-year-old beacon to seafarers. Our day on this stretch of the Outer Banks is now complete.

Ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke in North Carolina

A little further down the road, we run out of land. We either turn around or swim. Just kidding, our plan all along was to take the ferry across the channel to the island of Ocracoke, where we had a room reserved for the night.

Harborside Motel in Ocracoke, North Carolina

This is what $80 gets you at the Harborside Motel.

At the harbor in Ocracoke, North Carolina

Dinner was at the incredible Cafe Atlantic, where we feasted on a couple of seafood combos and were wooed by the hummingbird cake served with the greatest toasted coconut ice cream ever.

Ocracoke Lighthouse in Ocracoke, North Carolina

The rain is coming down hard over at the Ocracoke Lighthouse, but along the way, we get to see some fireflies. Nature’s fireworks are the perfect close to the day.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 9

Maybe there should have been a sense of disappointment that we woke to overcast skies, but here in the land of hollows (pronounced holler in the local Appalachian dialect), it feels fitting that a kind of foggy mystery is hugging Earth.

We needed to stop at the Looking Glass Falls on Route 276 on our way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. The upcoming road is one of America’s most iconic thoroughfares. After having driven the Natchez Trace Parkway a few years ago, it was our dream to visit this other major historic road that glides through the countryside, offering visitors a view of this small part of the United States untouched by man and machine or parking lots and commerce. We’ll only see a tiny section of the 469-mile parkway that travels from near the middle of Virginia almost to South Carolina, but even a brief firsthand glimpse of the incredible beauty is better than nothing at all.

The road ahead cannot be known as it is shrouded in fog and beyond the horizon; if there is one, it remains unknown and incomprehensible. Maybe this sounds ham-handed and as if I’m using heavy poetic license to make something more of what should be obvious, but this is my adventure, and without embellishment, romantic notions might be lost on cold logic. Who needs objective truths when we are talking about flights of fancy, where the imagination is filling the void that lies around the corner?

Dewdrops on flowers, now here’s a great setting to help fill in the gaps. Ornamental decorations can add color to the tales being woven out of what some may call ordinary travels, though there is nothing ordinary about stepping into our world. The television, on the other hand, is a poor surrogate for having “taken” someone to an exotic location, as the viewer cannot know the hushed tones and delicate soundtrack of a forest with a stream in the distance or the stillness of a viola just before a drop of water falls from its petal.

In the mid-1980’s while also in the middle of my existential angst period, I was busy consuming every word of Friedrich Nietzsche, and on the cover of the Penguin edition of Ecce Homo (Behold The Man), I saw the scene above. Now here it is 17 years later, and existential crisis is a distant problem that gave way to an anti-foundationalist Romanticism (idealism for those who’d appreciate not having to look that up), and I’d rather just soak up the beauty than consider the hopeless masses of humanity who will never be able to appreciate these moments where aesthetics, scientific phenomenon, history, nature, and poetry meet at the mountain top of our intellects to produce emotional sacrifices on the altar of life. The photo was taken at the Wolf Mountain Overlook.

Caspar David Friedrich

This scene titled Wanderer Above The Sea of Fog by Caspar David Friedrich from about 1818 was the cover that graced Ecce Homo. Courtesy Wikipedia.

The arteries of life crisscross this landscape and all I can see are trees and streams. My eyes are blind to the microbial world, and even with what I can see, such as the mosses and leaves, I cannot identify precisely what they are. Why is this information about our natural world seemingly so unimportant to us humans? It’s not enough that the scene is beautiful; we owe it to our short lives to understand and know the earth we live upon and within.

Being this close to another National Park, there was no way Caroline and I wouldn’t take the time to peek in.

I suppose that trying to brag that we’ve been on the Appalachian Trail would be nothing less than disingenuous, even though we are standing on that very famous trail. The fact of the matter is that we are right next to a parking lot where the A.T. crosses the road, and so we’ve “hiked” about 100 feet of the 2,180 miles of the trail. For the math nerds out there, we’ve covered about 0.000008% of the A.T. and only have 99.999992% more of the trail to hike.

Uncertainty is never fun, and so while I think these are maitake or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms I wouldn’t bet money on it or cook some up and gobble them down to find out.

Ah, yes, that is blue sky beyond the trees.

Wow, a hornet up close and personal. I’ve been told that these flying demons are aggressive beasts, but being only inches away from it, I’ll bet I was more nervous than it was. While it may pack a wallop of a sting, it also packs a wallop of evolutionary efficiency in its design as it looks to be a perfect form considering its life among the rest of us living things.

While the hornet is free from rent, obligation to pay taxes, or barter its time for food, we humans, on the other hand, are often bound to conformity. This march to social conditioning often starts here in the church, and while some may argue that it is a foundation of our ethics, I believe we are naturally moral beings and that the church does much harm to propagate complacency in ignorance by reinforcing our laziness to challenge authority. Someday, I believe all churches will be relics of another age, just as caves and pyramids are reflections of an earlier primitive self.

Philosophy, art, ethics, nature, history, conflict, and harmony do, in fact, travel with me on vacation as I’m not able to escape myself. The composite of who I am is what helps form how I see the landscape and subsequently try to capture these images that will hopefully bring me back to a moment of inspiration. From this scene, I want to imagine being an observer here about 600 years ago, before the Native American population first encountered Europeans. What was it like to walk free, find, capture, or harvest food, explore without permission the surroundings, or layabout in the valley and watch skies above travel overhead to places unknown?

It’s beautiful here in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but like so many other first-time encounters with our national parks, this one was too brief.

Seeing the Watts Bar Nuclear Plant on our way eastward was a conflicting sight as I’m at once fascinated by the technology and convenience while simultaneously uncertain about the waste issue. Of course, coal is not a viable answer either, nor the dam that has backed up these waters to destroy a healthy river system. Seems to me that only leaves, wind, and solar, which come to think about it, are two of the elements that, in their natural state, contribute to these trips being extraordinary.

The trees are on their way to full summer bloom here in mid-spring. I’d like to return in two months to see the trees with their leaves filled out and the little house and yard covered in shade. It’s pretty out here in Tennessee where nature doesn’t portray a poor education or hostility towards others, just an indifference to being here regardless if I am or not.

Seems that even many locals disdain boiled peanuts but Caroline and I sure enjoy them. They taste a bit like lentils. Being on vacation, we weren’t in much need of anything being notarized, so we weren’t able to take advantage of that while picking up another road snack. By the way, you won’t find boiled peanuts west of the Mississippi or much further north than Virginia.

Like boiled peanuts, this isn’t something we see every day: gourds. While popular as containers, musical instruments, birdhouses, and other crafty things, I can’t imagine why anybody driving by would be inclined to impulse buy gourds. Maybe this is the regional distribution point of dried gourds, and my ignorance of the area doesn’t let me know the important role they play in Tennessee culture.

Why a pig? Because this company called Piggly Wiggly changed the world of grocery shopping back in 1916. Prior to this chain of stores that got its start in Memphis, Tennessee, people would give a clerk a list of what they wanted and that person would fill their order. What changed was that Piggly Wiggly’s founder gave customers open shelves and a cart to collect their groceries themselves, and with that, the modern grocery store was born. You can learn a lot about America just by driving across its breadth.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 8

I’ve never woken up in Georgia before, but I have now. We are in Brunswick, and it is too early to try the stew this city is famous for. So breakfast was something mundane and average, but we’ll be in Savannah by lunchtime, where we have a date with a home-cooking style restaurant, and black-eyed peas, sweet potatoes, and something fried will be on the menu. Meanwhile, we’ll meander and dream of the Brunswick stew we have yet to taste.

Who can come to Georgia for the first time and not have the banjos of Deliverance playing in their head? Maybe the same person who could go to North Carolina and not dream of listening to Blue Velvet in Lumberton. Of course, if you thought the very next sounds in my head had something to do with squealing like a piggy, you’d be correct. Does anyone want to go canoeing with me?

Research for must-see places in Georgia and Wormsloe will be found high on everyone’s list. While the place looks really cool, I had no other information about what was in the state park and with no brochure near the gate, we couldn’t justify the expense of going in for an unknown. That was probably a mistake, but should we ever find ourselves in the Savannah area again, we’ll have something new to see.

This is when infinite amounts of free time and unlimited budgets would come in handy by letting us charter a boat that could take us out on this waterway and any others that might catch our interest. Our time in Georgia was only intended to give us the briefest of impressions of the state, it was quickly becoming apparent that we bungled things and will need a return visit.

Magnolias are right up there with plumeria in the beauty department. I’d swear this thing is as big as Caroline’s head and almost as pretty.

You know you’ve arrived in Savannah upon seeing the famous Forsyth Park fountain. It’s quiet here, not what I expected regarding crowds. This is one of the pleasures of traveling outside of the main tourist season and arriving on a Thursday.

My imagination says come this weekend, these streets will be packed, and by June, it will be wall-to-wall throngs of people, but who knows?

Savannah is turning out to be simply charming. Then again, we’re restricting our explorations to the central historic core and won’t be paying a visit to the suburbs.

This is the city of monuments and squares. There’s a lot of history shared in these open spaces, and helps lend a quality to Savannah that begs for the place to be explored on foot. With an abundance of trees, park benches, and beautiful architecture taking influence from Italianate, Regency, Georgian, Federal, and Romanesque styles, there is much to experience here that dazzles the eye and mind.

And so we just keep on walking…

…. zigzagging as we go with no real plan other than enjoying our short time in the old South.

Sure, we could have gone to the Bonaventure Cemetery, where everyone else goes to see that famous statue made so, by the recent Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil movie, but we chose to meander in the Colonial Park Cemetery because, from our view, the departed all look about the same at this stage.

This monument to the clawfoot tub is only missing a park bench and a larger area to make it into a proper square.

Had a nice chat with a guy we ran into on the street who was from Los Angeles. We’d stopped him to ask for directions, and after he offered us help, I inquired if he was from California. Surprised, he said he was and asked how I knew, “It’s your accent.” With that, he explained he was an author and was on business here for a friend of his named Ben Affleck. He offered to snap this photo of us, which was great as typically I’m in front due to having the camera and shooting selfies all the time.

Can you tell we’ve left Savannah?

These strawberries will not make it to North Carolina.

Update: Fifteen years later, in 2018, we still have this strawberry bucket.

While we are still moving generally north, we are starting our return to the west. This is another new state for Caroline and me to visit and, of course, for my mother-in-law, too. Now, on to the business of trying to create a photographic representation of all that South Carolina has to offer.

First up are the lush landscape and post-depression architecture that lies in decay. Not a lot of shopping in this village or even a cheap motel; even residents were difficult to find.

Why the locals decided to place their park benches in the lake as opposed to next to the lake will forever remain a mystery to us. We were on Highway 221, passing through Parksville, when we stopped in for a view of Lake Thurmond (also known as Clark’s Hill Lake).

Turns out that the abandoned home two photos ago was part of a decaying suburb, but here on Main Street, up in McCormick, a vibrant economy is hard at work with plenty of on-street parking readily available.

We tried crossing the Long Cane Creek with a ferry, but wouldn’t you know it, they are all gone. So we had to make the best of it and paddle the car across this waterway. Good thing we brought oars on this trip. It was here that we decided to travel even smaller roads and took the 81 toward Calhoun Falls.

This home in Mt. Carmel even had electricity at one point.

A couple of old goats came out and welcomed us to their neighborhood, so I can now say I’ve certainly experienced awesome Southern hospitality. We are all encouraged to come back for a more in-depth visit in the future, but for now, we must bid adieu to the fair state of South Carolina.

Wouldn’t you know it, that as we arrived in North Carolina, all radio stations were playing Bobby Vinton or Roy Orbison? That’s a Blue Velvet reference for those of you who are wondering what the hell I’m talking about. By the way, there are NO motels or lodging out here in the woods on the North Carolina/South Carolina state lines.