Utah to Colorado to New Mexico – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving to Utah

Oh, you are getting off work early today? I’ve got an idea: let’s drive our new car out somewhere to help break it in. Hmmm, where should we go? How about we go get a steak? Sounds like a plan. Do you think we can make it? Depends on how many stops we make between here and there.

Northern Arizona at sunset

Up north of Flagstaff, it never seems to fail that we see some of the most amazing sunsets and cloud formations.

So, I mentioned a new car. After months and endless loaner cars, the Beetle bit the dust. It will be the last German car we’ll ever own in the United States. We paid $7,000 for a new engine, and before we reached the next corner, the check engine light came on. This is how the next nearly two months played out. The kick in the ass is that Volkswagen had our car at 95,000 miles for a final inspection before the car hit 100,000 miles, and the warranty ran out. VW recommends that the timing belt be changed at 100,000 miles, but we were only at 95,000, and we didn’t specifically request them to change the belt at what we thought was our 100,000-mile check-up. At 107,000 miles, the timing belt slipped and destroyed the engine. Too bad as it was on our onus to ensure we were in compliance with their policies. After half a dozen more times at the dealer, we drove the Beetle over to a Hyundai dealer just to consider a trade-in. The car died again. So we traded it right then and there with a horrible loss that was fortunately rolled into our purchase; that’s right, no more leasing for us and no more Volkswagen or the dealer we leased from.

Mexican Hat Lodge in Mexican Hat, Utah

Steaks are on the grill, cooking up over the burning mesquite. The cowboy cooking our dinner has been our cook before, and that swinging grill in front of him is just a small part of the magic that keeps dragging us up to Mexican Hat, Utah. Being in the Valley of the Gods just north of Monument Valley is another part of the allure. Caroline has a beer, and her veggie patty is getting the same treatment as my hunk of cow flesh as we chill out under the Milky Way on a seldom-traveled road, enjoying the beginning of our mini-vacation. BTW we are at the Mexican Hat Lodge again.

Tucson, Arizona

Guadalupe, Arturo, Tyson the Dog, Arturito, Caroline and John Wise in Tucson, Arizona

Meet the Silvas: On the left is Arturo’s wife Guadalupe, then Arturo, holding Tyson, the little dog, is their son Arturito, while their daughters Sophia and Melissa are too short and stand below Caroline’s chin and so cannot be seen in this photo – just kidding. We don’t get down often enough to visit the Silva Family in Tucson.

Sunset near Picacho Peak in Arizona

And, of course, there was this sunset near Picacho Peak on the way home.

Two Guns to Homolovi – Solo

Two Guns, Arizona

Back in the days when Route 66 was the Mother Road, places like Two Guns, Arizona, were the happening stops on the road across America. With Interstate 40 relegating the historic road into the past, many places could not survive the speeding highway that zipped people right by with no need to take a break. Two Guns is now a ghost town.

Two Guns, Arizona

This is a fragment of Route 66 that allowed people to cross Diablo Canyon.

Two Guns, Arizona

Some long-unused gas pumps are shells of their former selves. Nearby is the car lift rusting in the outdoors as the garage that was once surrounded by it is gone.

Two Guns, Arizona

For the longest time, I wondered what “Mountain Lions” referred to, thinking it was the mascot for a nearby high school football team or something. Nope, this was to announce that there was a small zoo at Two Guns, as any old gimmick might work to bring people off the highway. Well, ultimately, it didn’t work because there ain’t nothing left but ruins in this old ghost town.

Interstate 40 in Arizona

I might have better framed this shot, except that I was driving about 70 mph when I saw this bizarre cloud pattern in the sky, and I was thinking that by the time I found a safe spot to pull over, the whole thing might not have the same appearance.

Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona

Stopping in at Homolovi State Park which was the primary objective of this journey north today. We’d driven by and discounted it as it’s a State Park and not a National Park and so the thinking was it was inferior. I was wrong.

Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona

Not only are there ruins of abandoned dwellings, but there is also a wealth of artifacts strewn about, which are allowed to remain where they fell so many hundreds of years ago so that visitors can discover them just as someone else may have who was wondering the landscape. I appreciate the trust and have a deep-seated hope that others can fight the impulse to collect a souvenir, though if how much petrified wood leaves the Petrified Forest National Park further down the road is an indicator, then it’s only a matter of time before these grounds are picked clean.

Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona

A foreboding sky can’t adequately hide the expanse of beauty the eye can extract from gazing out on the horizon. I have to wonder, though, if my infatuation with the breadth of this open space is because I don’t have to live here.

Homolovi State Park in Winslow, Arizona

Sedimentary layers that, over time, become sandstone tell geologists about the natural history of this land, while the artifacts and remnants of the cultures that lived in the area can fill in another part of the historic timeline that preceded our arrival. Just as a simple observation of the Two Guns ghost town more obviously conveys its history.

Interstate 40 in Arizona

As the sun sets in the West, the visual alarm clock reminds me that it’s time to head south to catch up with Caroline and share photos of where my adventure took me today.

Grand Canyon – Day 1

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise on the way to the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

So Jutta may have strolled the streets of New Orleans, snorkeled in the Florida Keys, sped over the Everglades on a fan boat, ate Southern-style cuisine, walked a short bit on the Appalachian Trail, visited Graceland, and a bunch of other things on this trip to the United States, but a vacation in America without a stop in the Grand Canyon wouldn’t be a proper visit, and so here we go.

Sunset in Northern Arizona

It’s late in the day, almost evening here on Saturday, when we decide that we’ll race up the Grand Canyon so Jutta can let everyone know back home in Germany that once again she has been to this National Park that intrigues her so deeply. We obviously won’t make sunset in the park, but we’ll be there bright and early for sunrise.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 12

On the other side of Hope, New Mexico driving west

This is the other side of Hope, as in Hope, New Mexico.

U.S. 82 in New Mexico

The people that had once lived here apparently never found Hope and instead might have settled for despair. However, if I try to curb the snarky comment, I can easily appreciate the view of the main window out across the landscape, the quiet they would have enjoyed, and a simplicity I have never seen.

U.S. 82 in New Mexico

We’re on Highway 82, and somewhere nearby, we stopped at Runyan Ranches for some apple cider; we are suckers for roadside treats and incredible views. If you look to the saddle on the left, you can get a hint regarding where our next stop is.

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

The white sandy beaches of New Mexico!

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Of course, we asked my 67-year-old mother-in-law to get down in the sand with her daughter and make sand angels because isn’t that what everybody does when they visit White Sands National Monument?

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Still looking for the shoreline.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

Caroline is reporting back that she didn’t find it over that hill. Jutta starting to think it looks like a Blizzard from Dairy Queen and is considering tasting it.

White Sands National Monument in Alamogordo, New Mexico

We never did find the ocean here but were able to huddle in the shade to avoid burning to a crisp as we did back on the 6th day of our cross-country adventure when we went snorkeling at Bahia Honda State Park in the Florida Keys. We’re not even home yet but are enjoying the fond memories we’ve shared and created.

Rio Grande near Hatch, New Mexico

Holy mackerel, not that one could survive in this trickle of a river, but look at all those illegal aliens crossing the Rio Grande to gain access to America. Okay, so this isn’t one of those points where the river could be crossed, but then again, does this river ever have enough water in it that would make crossing it difficult? In any case, one has to wonder how many “illegals” simply fly in from Europe and fit in with the white majority and are not easily identified by the mass hysteria regarding immigration in America. As you can see from my photos across the United States, there are plenty of lands and a ton of towns that could benefit from more residents and an improving economy; maybe we should open legalization for people who settle in small towns to help revitalize them as their native population moves to larger cities in search of work?

Hatch, New Mexico

These Hatch chiles are more famous than the town they come from. Hatch, New Mexico, is one of the places in America where drivers simply pass right by on their way between Albuquerque and El Paso.

Arrey, New Mexico

Arrey, New Mexico, is the last big town we’ll pass as we head to ever smaller roads that inevitably delay our return home but keep us off the larger highways as much as possible. For your knowledge, we are on Road 187, which parallels Interstate 25, which would have allowed us to drive at roughly 75mph instead of the more languid 40’ish we are barely maintaining.

Hillsboro, New Mexico

Hillsboro, New Mexico, is closed today.

AZ 78 going west in eastern Arizona

But viewing the upturned scalloped rocks of sandstone in Arizona is open.

Morenci Mine near Clifton, Arizona

So is this GIANT open-pit mine in Morenci, Arizona, that I believe I might have posted before. Click HERE and HERE, and from just last month, HERE too.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise returning to Phoenix, Arizona

Driving west into the sunset and the golden light that has drawn so many out this way.

Approaching Phoenix, Arizona at sunset

After 12 days out in America with Caroline and her mom, Jutta, across the south-central half of the country and over 6,000 miles or right at about 10,000 kilometers, we are ending this journey. From my old extensive notes that covered the first week of the trip to those days that I had to improvise and pull from dusty old memories with the help of Caroline, I’m able to put this trip up on our blog. We relish the fact that we not only have dozens of great visual reminders of our travels but also about 13,300 words of accompanying fragments that help fill in the gaps of what would have otherwise been easily forgotten.

Across the Southern U.S. – Day 11

Esso Station in Mena, Arkansas

Mena, Arkansas, was where we took our overnight stop, and as you can see, it is shortly after sunrise that we are getting underway. This old Esso gas station opened back in 1928, and after years of decline, it was renovated before the turn of the century and is now a roadside attraction.

Driving west to Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

Mena is located at the foot of Rich Mountain, which is the second-highest peak in Arkansas, standing at 2,681 feet or 817 meters. We were heading up towards Rich Mountain when I took this photo on our way to Queen Wilhelmina State Park.

Driving west to Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

There’s very little time to stop and smell the flowers as we have 1,200 miles to cover between now and tomorrow night, so we end up taking some of our photos right through the windshield of the car while driving up these winding mountain roads. Oh, you can tell this is from the driver’s side? Yeah, I’m guilty of this small bit of unsafe driving.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on Steam Engine #360 at Queen Wilhelmina State Park in Mena, Arkansas

We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to get a closer look at an old steam train and then to find out that we could crawl up on it, well that deserved a photo. We are about to leave the Queen Wilhelmina State Park on our race westward.

Jutta Engelhardt, Caroline Wise, and John Wise entering Oklahoma

Leaving Highway 88 behind and joining Highway 1, also known as the Talimena Scenic Drive as we pass into Oklahoma.

Llamas and alpacas on a grassy hillside with flowers? Well, that adds to the scenic quality of this road in my book.

We won’t be in Oklahoma long as we beeline it to Texas.

This tortoise from Antlers, Oklahoma, as opposed to a tortoise with antlers, is certainly moving a lot slower than we are today, a matter of fact, too slow, and so we pulled over to nudge it to safety. This one, fortunately, didn’t need to be lobbed like a football.

Valley Feed Mill Paris, Texas

Welcome to Texas and the land of long roads.

Paris, Texas

You should know that Wim Wenders has inspired this visit to Paris, Texas. I first learned of Wim Wenders from Dennis Hopper, who told me about working with him on the movie The American Friend. Another bit of nostalgia: it was during these meetings with Dennis Hopper that I also met Harry Dean Stanton, who plays the lead role in the movie Paris, Texas by Wim Wenders. How I came to hang out with Mr. Easy Rider is another story that I’ll publish at some point.

Paris, Texas

Of course, visiting Paris in Texas is a bit of a treat for my mother-in-law as she never heard of another Paris outside of France. The town is pretty quiet today, and looks like its prosperity is on the wane.

Muenster, Texas

From Paris to Muenster, Germany…I mean Texas.

St. Jo, Texas

This required some sleuthing on Google Maps to figure out our driving route and what town this might have been as we were driving from Paris to Muenster and then the time stamp on the photo so I could get an approximation of how many miles we might have driven. Turns out that we are in St. Jo, Texas and Google Street View confirms it, although the town has been renovating the main square since we drove through.

Bull statue at Lonestar Hereford Ranch in Ringgold, Texas

Good thing others take photos and write about missing roadside attractions otherwise, I may have never found out that this bull statue used to stand at Lone Star Hereford Ranch in Ringgold, Texas. It’s sad to see such large lawn ornaments go away; kind of makes you wonder how you retire a 20-foot-tall bull.

Jutta Engelhard outside Henrietta, Texas

If the mother-in-law is falling asleep in the back seat, a surefire way to wake her up is to make a stop at a Dairy Queen. Jutta didn’t know how much she liked “fake” ice cream until she tried a Blizzard, and then every time we passed one, she’d be sure to point out, “There’s another Dairy Queen.” This particular one was in Henrietta, Texas.

West of Wichita Falls, Texas

We are west of Wichita Falls, Texas, as we trek across the Lone Star state.

West of Wichita Falls, Texas

If we didn’t pass cattle and oil pumping operations we might not have known that we really were in Texas.

Old Gas Station in Mabelle, Texas

A far cry from the Esso we visited earlier in the day back in Arkansas. With no one around to ask we had no way of finding out anything about this old gas station that has obviously been closed a good long time.

Edit: Turns out this was in Mabelle, Texas, but has since been torn down. 

This could be somewhere between Lubbock and Plains, Texas, but then again, it could also be between Guthrie and Lubbock.

More friendly horses and two German women in western Texas.

After more than half a day driving across that gargantuan state, we are finally in New Mexico and seeing hints of the Arizona sunsets we are about to re-encounter. From Plains, Texas, we drove to Lovington, New Mexico, on our way to Artesia, New Mexico, where we’ll spend the night in some cheap roadside motel.

Though we were in the car the majority of the day we still were able to carve out a great encounter with the countryside of Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and a bit of New Mexico late in the day. Obviously, we stayed off the major highways, and that certainly extended our time on the road, but we managed to drive nearly 800 miles today and, along the way, collect some memorable moments that will now stick with us for the rest of our lives.