California Coast

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Disclaimer of sorts, as with the first post from this Labor Day weekend in Los Angeles, this post wasn’t penned and pushed into the sunlight until the summer of 2023, 11 years after the events depicted took place. And so, without further ado, let’s jump into the sea. Once again, we awoke at the Wilshire Motel, except this time, we bolted north on Highway 101 because we had a date with a yarn store in Santa Barbara.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

Being who we are (meaning: John and Caroline, just to be clear), we were not going to drive by the ocean without stopping to admire where the sea meets the shore, gaze at how the sun is illuminating all of this, and hold out until we spot a bit of wildlife.

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Well, these seagulls will do just fine for our wildlife encounter. Time to continue the trek north.

Backyard Bowls in Santa Barbara, California

This was not our first time to Backyard Bowls for breakfast here in Santa Barbara, not even our second or third. Looking for a fresh treat to start the day with a bunch of fruit atop acai or porridge? Then this place is for you. Note to Caroline, who will edit this before it’s published: Backyard Bowls now has locations in the Los Angeles area; just saying.

Santa Barbara, California

The beautiful hibiscus flower is also a tasty treat, especially when used in tea.

The Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

We are visiting the Casa Covarrubias Adobe, built in 1817, which is now a historical landmark here in Santa Barbara, California. It’s also one of the oldest buildings from the earliest days when the city was just taking shape.

Loom at the Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

If there are tools of the fiber trade, then you just know that Caroline would be looking for a photo, and this loom featuring some ancient parts fits that bill.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

I can’t remember if we sampled the grapes growing here. I’d like to think I did, but I’m also fairly certain that Caroline would have reminded me that if everyone helped themselves, there’d be nothing left for photos of yummy grapes still on the vine glowing in the morning sun.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

Just where the adobe gives way to the El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park is lost on me in long-forgotten memories, and I’m too lazy at the moment to tease them apart. I’m astonished at our good luck in visiting the Santa Barbara area mostly when the weather is stunningly perfect.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

It’s a short walk over to the County Courthouse of Santa Barbara, another historic site.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

This is the Mural Room; it was once the County Supervisors’ Assembly Room.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

The courthouse opened in 1929 following a devastating earthquake; it would come to define the architectural style that Santa Barbara is known for.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

View from the courthouse clock tower. Is there any wonder why Santa Barbara has become one of the greatest places to live in the United States?

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting the Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

If we were millionaires or willing to not have a life beyond a mortgage, we’d live here. Instead, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves that we can afford the luxury of frequent visits.

Arlington Theater in Santa Barbara, California

The Arlington Theater was built in 1931 and can seat 2,000 visitors, no wonder they host concerts here in addition to showing films.

Caroline Wise at Loop & Leaf in Santa Barbara, California

NO! Did someone assume because it’s the weekend that, the very reason for visiting Santa Barbara, the Loop & Leaf yarn and tea shop would be open? Sadly for my morose-faced wife, her opportunity to splurge on the only real luxury she shops for has been squashed.

La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara, California

Nothing left to do but eat the blues away under a pretty blue sky. Based on a tip, we’ll endure the lengthy line here at La Super-Rica Taqueria because the food is that highly recommended. Was it worth it? With a super enthusiastic exclamation of Muy Rico! Yes, it was worth the wait.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

One more stop at the oceanside for a walk in the sand before continuing south as we’re staying one more night at the Wilshire Motel.

Mashti Malone's Ice Cream in Hollywood, California

Based on this image, we can be certain we had ice cream at Mashti Malone’s, but nothing else is known about the evening. Where’d we have dinner? Did we catch a movie, walk around Hollywood or Santa Monica? Nada is known, no photos, no notes, no nothing.

L.A. Conservancy Tour

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

In the march forward through the long-neglected blog landscape, alas, yet another few days discovered gathering digital dust on the hard drive of a forgotten time. Here I am now in the future, the year 2023, when, with forensic tools, I uncover these images with great clarity, but the exact details of what we are doing these days, aside from the obvious, will remain buried in brains, not prone to giving up secrets. To state the easily apparent, we stayed at the good ole Wilshire Motel which was often our go-to place for a weekend in L.A.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Taking ourselves to the Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. was out of the ordinary but made sense, considering we are right next door to a meeting point that has everything to do with the primary reason for this visit to Southern California.

Los Angeles, California

There’s something in common with more than a few of these old posts; it typically takes me some time to remember that I might have the itinerary and that it could have details that would help add to the story. Sure enough, I discovered something we’ll do here at the end of the day that I had no photos for and would have consequently missed; I’ll share it after the last photo.

Million Dollar Theater in Los Angeles, California

This is the Million Dollar Theater on Broadway, where we are meeting our tour guide from the L.A. Conservancy for the Broadway Historic Theatre and Commercial District Walking Tour. After learning about some of the history of Sid Grauman’s Million Dollar Theater and the current state of the theater that we couldn’t visit, we moved on to the next location.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

The famous Bradbury Building that I’ve likely written about on more than one occasion.

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Does Blade Runner come to mind?

Caroline Wise at the Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

Hello Caroline…

Bradbury Building in Los Angeles, California

As I considered what to write here and started using image search to identify a few facades I couldn’t figure out, I thought about going into some history, but this might not be the best use of my time. Though I’d learn a lot, and Caroline too would capture some history we didn’t retain from our original tour, this post will likely remain unseen by anyone as it’s inserted into its holding place carrying a date nearly a dozen years old. Who, after all, looks at such dated posts?

Los Angeles, California

What I can offer is that we’ve enjoyed the various tours we’ve taken from the L.A. Conservancy and can only hope they remain well-funded and able to continue offering their events and tours for years to come.

Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Permanence is not part of the American vocabulary if financial utility can move to a newer, shinier location. Once the exodus begins to cheaper digs, decay sets in, and the value of what was once grand is allowed to fall into nothing.

Inside the old Roxie Theater in Downtown Los Angeles, California

Lucky us, the current tenant of the space formerly known as Roxie Theater allowed us inside to see for ourselves that it now serves as a warehouse but still has the décor and movie screen present.

Paramount Sign in Los Angeles, California

Prior to the move to Hollywood, many of the studios were located right here in the Downtown Los Angeles core. Fading for decades is the old logo of Paramount Pictures on the side of this building.

Sidewalk at the Pantages Theater in Los Angeles, California

This terrazzo sidewalk used to be part of the Pantages Theater.

Los Angeles, California

Detail of the Beaux Arts and Spanish Baroque style Broadway-Spring Arcade Building.

Los Angeles Theater in Los Angeles, California

The Los Angeles Theater, built in 1931, was considered to be the most lavish of Broadway’s great movie palaces. Reading about all these old theaters, I got curious about the oldest operating theater in the U.S., it turns out to be in Washington, Iowa. The State Theater has been open since 1897 and is still showing movies as of 2023.

Palace Theater in Los Angeles, California

Growing up in the Los Angeles area and a frequent visitor of the downtown area, I wasn’t able to really consider the history of what I was seeing as I was simply overwhelmed by the sense of scale and decay of the city I was walking through. Learning that the Palace Theater was originally the Orpheum and was built in 1911 for vaudeville acts, not the movies, comes as a surprise, as is the fact that the building was loosely based upon a Renaissance-age Florentine palazzo. On its stage, the likes of Harry Houdini, Will Rogers, Fred Astaire, and Rita Hayworth have performed.

Los Angeles, California

Pardon the wonky bending in my photo of the State Theater building, but it was created from three different images stacked one upon the other in a panorama, as I couldn’t capture it correctly with the lens I was using.

From a terrific website by Mike Hume / Historic Theatre Photos with the copyright held by him, he wrote of the State Theater:

In 1929, a Bakersfield act called The Gumm Sisters played at the State, featuring a lead singer who earned the nickname “Leather Lungs” for her ability to be heard clearly at the rear of the 125-deep auditorium. As the Great Depression took hold and vaudeville declined (vaudeville ceased at the State in the mid-1930s), the Gumm Sisters moved to Culver City to appear in experimental Technicolor musicals, and “Leather Lungs” changed her name to Judy Garland.

Old Warner Bros. Building in Los Angeles, California

Behind the diamond is an old Warner Bros. logo, and while this was originally a Pantages Theater in 1920, by 1929, it became the home of Warner Bros.

Tower Theater in Los Angeles, California

Tower Theater was once one of the narrowest theaters built; today, the ground floor is an Apple Store.

Rialto Theater in Los Angeles, California

To the casual visitor, I wonder how many of them miss these old marquees?

Orpheum Theater in Los Angeles, California

A bit more background on the Orpheum. These theaters were part of something called the Orpheum Circuit,  a chain of vaudeville and movie theaters. As vaudeville was winding down, Orpheum merged into another company, becoming Radio-Keith-Orpheum (RKO) Pictures. RKO gave us such films as King Kong, Citizen Kane, It’s a Wonderful Life, and Notorious. Howard Hughes took over operations in 1948 before selling shortly ahead of its collapse.

Grand Central Market in Los Angeles, California

Prior to this day, Caroline nor I had ever eaten Salvadoran food so the idea of having a lunch of pupusas at a Pupuseria sounded great to us. As of this writing in 2023, Sarita’s here at the Grand Central Market is still open.

Los Angeles, California

Seeing we’re already parked here downtown, why not spend a little more time and visit the Central Library? During the late 1970s, the Los Angeles Central Library was one of my favorite places to hang out and browse its amazing collection of old books. Little did I know back then that the city had ideas of demolishing this building, and it was that idea that gave rise to the L.A. Conservancy in 1978.

Los Angeles, California

This Globe Chandelier featuring the 48 states that existed when it was built in 1926 for the rotunda of the central library survived the fire that devastated the library in 1986 and is just beautiful.

Los Angeles, California

While the high rises of Los Angeles are imposing from below and make for a great skyline from a distance, they are ultimately impersonal and disposable, in my opinion.

Los Angeles, California

While the old architecture is reflected in the new, the new hardly carries much of its own character that would make it interesting to look at.

Los Angeles, California

This 12-story building, built in 1912, is 100 years old here in 2012 and has found new life as luxury lofts for those fortunate enough to be able to live in such splendor in the heart of L.A. This here should have been the end of the post, as I have no more photos of what we were doing on this day, but as I referenced above regarding itineraries, I had a note in that directory.

It turns out that we saw one of the earliest screenings of the documentary film Samsara, not only that, we had the opportunity to meet and talk for a moment with the director Ron Fricke, who made Baraka too, one of our all-time favorites.

Last Day in Alaska

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline Wise at Oomingmak Shop in Anchorage, Alaska

It’s not always easy to know what’s important when it is so, and so it happened back in 2012 following a monumental experience that took us down the Alsek River out of the Yukon into British Columbia, and finally delivered us to Dry Bay, Alaska that all the important stuff was duly noted and extensively blogged about using near 30,000 words and just under 200 or so photos. Well, that was 11 years ago, and in looking back I realized that I neglected writing of our last, equally important day, of our first visit to this corner of the earth. Now in 2023, I’m going to try and repair that by including what I can about this day in the Anchorage, Alaska, area.

Had we done nothing else, Caroline required that we make a pilgrimage to the Oomingmak Co-Operative. This is possibly the only place on our entire planet where one can walk in and buy a handknit object created from a fiber known as qiviut, which comes from a rare northern creature called musk ox. The “Pack Ice” headband design Caroline is wearing will likely forever remain the most expensive small article of clothing she will ever buy at $130. And, as she reminds me, she chose the “discount option” because the yarn of this headband is 80% qiviut and 20% silk. No matter the expense, I’m certain Caroline will forever cherish this rarest of luxuries and how it will remain a part of her first experience in the wilds of Alaska.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

I’m barely into the narrative that accompanies these photos, but with the 21 images I’ve included here and then the realization that I only used about an average of a dozen photos per day in the original blog entries, I feel I need to return for further investigation of how I whittled nearly 5,500 photos down to the tiny number I shared. I do know a huge contributing factor to my possible lethargy in tackling more: I had just recently finished writing, editing, and publishing my seminal (and only) book titled Stay In The Magic about the Grand Canyon rafting adventure on which we had marked back at the end of 2010 prior to this Alaska trip and I’d had enough of venting my heart and mind. Looking at this railroad track, I’d like to try the corny, “That train has left the station,” but knowing me, I’ll revisit those directories of old photos and see if I might feel enticed to add a little something here and there.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

After two weeks in this environment, nothing had grown old. Every vista was spectacular and held an incredible amount of mystery as at best, we could only glimpse the tiniest of surface views regarding what the environment holds beyond the first glance.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Our flight doesn’t depart until shortly after midnight, so we are driving somewhat aimlessly southeast until we know that we need to turn around.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

We are driving along the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet, where the waters flowing out of Portage Lake head to the open sea.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

The telltale turquoise watercolor lets us know that a glacier is ahead.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Oops, almost forgot to stop and smell the flowers, a lupine in this case.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

Looking across Portage Lake at a glaciated area. I don’t think this is part of the Portage Glacier.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

This was as close to Portage Glacier ice as we were going to get, the remnant of some broken-off ice that drifted across the lake.

Seward Highway thru the Chugach National Forest in Alaska

The road turned to the west, taking us past a bunch of lily ponds; if only we were present when the waters were still and reflected the surrounding mountains.

Kenai Peninsula in Alaska

This was the end of our exploration of the Seward Highway today. After reaching the Welcome to the Kenai Peninsula sign, we decided this should be the time to turn around, as reaching Seward or Homer was out of the question due to our limited time remaining in Alaska.

Caroline Wise at Turnagain Arm Pit on the Seward Highway in Alaska

Having a beer and BBQ at the Turnagain Arm BBQ in Indian, Alaska, on the Seward Highway because even if we had to stop for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and Kool-Aid, this would still be one of the greatest stops for dinner ever. Does the sunlight have you thinking I meant lunch? Well, it was 7:00 p.m. when this photo was taken.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

We’ve stopped at the Potter Marsh area after spotting birds galore, and everyone knows that this is exactly the right number of birds to arrest our attention and force us from the car to inspect all of them.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

Unless you live in Alaska or some other northern clime, I’m guessing it’s not every day one sees a great black-backed gull chick.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

I’m calling it “Arctic Tern with Midnight Snack.”

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

I literally crawled on my belly, as monumental as it is, to approach this tern from a distance I would have never guessed possible.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

From this point, until we reach the airport, I’ve not been able to identify the park we visited, but who cares? Just take a moment to enjoy the warm sunset (9:15 p.m.) light illuminating the grasses in the woods.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

More flower-smelling time.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

Do you know what they call a daisy in Alaska? Daisy.

Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge in Alaska

And with this last late-day photo, we pointed the car towards the airport to catch our flight.

John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Daniel Billotte flying out of Alaska

We were seated and waiting for a couple of late arrivals, and as one of those stragglers was walking down the aisle, I nudged Caroline and told her that the guy approaching looked a lot like a guy we’d not seen in 5 or 10 years, Daniel Billotte. Of course, she said, “NO WAY!” So, as he started to pass us, I kind of blurted out Daniel under my breath, not directing exactly at him, but his head snapped; sure enough, it was Daniel. How on god’s green earth are we running into this guy on a midnight flight out of Alaska? I’d like to say stranger things have happened, and while this is up there in the unbelievable department, we’ve had our fair share of the No Way.

Rafting The Alsek – Canada To Alaska Day 14

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Caroline and John Wise at the end of rafting the Alsek River running from the Yukon Territory, British Columbia, and Alaska to the Pacific Ocean

If you would like to read this story sequentially, starting with Day 1 – Click Here!

Chapped, worn, dirty, bitten, and on more than one occasion wet, cold, nervous, excited, and astonished. This is it, the last day on the Alsek River, a bittersweet moment. There’s an awkwardness to finding the vibe on a river trip, as there are new routines, new people, and an environment that stands large and new right before all of your senses. By the time this last day comes along, we have found our stride and are certainly not ready to leave. But we are near the end of the river, to go further would mean venturing into the Pacific Ocean, next stop, Russia, maybe China!

The forest carpet hangs dangling over the edge where the river has washed away the supporting soil below it. On the Alsek River in Alaska

Before we leave the river, we have one more set of rapids and a few miles to run; we savor every moment. Shortly before reaching our takeout, we pass these cut banks where the river, over time has encroached on the forest and has removed the supporting soil. Interestingly, though, we have an incredible opportunity to see just how plants are able to weave together the soil to create the glue that binds the forest floor into a cohesive unit. This is why there is so much risk of flooding and mudslides following a severe fire, especially on mountainsides. In some areas on the cut bank, trees continue to grow at odd angles, appearing as though they could fall into the river at any time, and yet the carpet of plants holds firm, and the trees live on.

Our pilot has arrived and is ready to whisk us to the town of Yakutat, Alaska

The flat gravel bank looms large as it becomes apparent that it would be where we are going to make our exit. The emotions of the moment rage but have to be contained as we have lots to do. We immediately start emptying the rafts of everything before we open the valves and start to deflate them. A local family arrives with trailers being pulled behind their all-terrain vehicles – known as quads. They help us load up our personal gear, and within an hour of landing, we are following a primitive trail through the woods to a landing strip. We don’t have to wait long before our bush pilot arrives in his small plane. Joining us on our flight out of Dry Bay, Alaska, today are a couple of guys whose original plans had been to backpack the Alsek but were foiled by the immensity of the Tweedsmuir glacier. Lucky for them, a passing helicopter took pity on their portage attempt and hauled them out. Security out here doesn’t seem to be much of an issue; there were no full-body scanners or even X-rays. In quick time, we were rumbling down the gravel runway and peeling away from the trees.

The Brabazon mountain range in the distance as we fly out of Dry Bay, Alaska on our way up the coast to Yakutat

We are flying parallel to the coast, heading north to Yakutat. In the distance, we can just make out the Brabazon Range. It is a solemn moment up here in the sky, watching the world we have known for the previous two weeks disappear. Lucky Shaun, though, has stayed back at Dry Bay; he will accompany the rafts on a different flight back to Haines Junction, where he will turn around and do this all over again with a different group. I dream of being a boatman in another life.

Like the ground that we will soon land on, reality comes crashing into view that our journey down the Alsek River is over.

In a few minutes, we’ll land in Yakutat. I have no interest in being in “Yak,” but it is where we must land to catch our next flight. We’ll stay overnight, as my original plans had been filled with the excitement that we would have one more day in the wild to allow us to acclimate to reality before reentering the alternative reality called urban life. Getting a hot shower also seemed like a great idea, but the foreignness of others and the weirdness of being in a hotel were all too overwhelming. Tomorrow morning, we will board a flight to Anchorage, where we’ll have the better part of the day exploring before leaving Alaska at midnight. The memories of where we just were are laden with emotion, life once again has taken a turn and connected me in ways to our Earth I never could have imagined prior to embarking on such an amazing journey.

Rafting The Alsek – Canada To Alaska Day 13

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

Midnight on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Waiting for the lake tsunami that never comes. It’s five minutes after midnight, and everyone else is asleep while Caroline and I try to cherish each and every second we have left here in Alaska. This will be our last full day on the Alsek. Those clouds on the right are hiding Mount Fairweather, which, according to Wikipedia, stands at 15,325 feet (4,671 meters) and is one of the world’s highest coastal mountains. We’ll not see Mount Fairweather on this trip, as the weather didn’t allow it. Something for us to come back for.

Four o'clock in the morning on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Four o’clock in the morning is the perfect time for a perfect sunrise. Looks like we might be having a sunny day here on the lake.

7:00 a.m. on Alsek Lake in Alaska

By 7:00 a.m., the clouds are moving in; fingers crossed, they will burn off. The funny thing about how the weather goes, it nearly always seems to have been perfect for the situation wherever Caroline and I find ourselves traveling. If it’s raining, well, that rain added something that made the place all the more special. Yesterday, it looked like winter had closed in on us, but still, there was incredible beauty to be found. I wonder how many people go on vacation wishing for great weather and are disappointed when they don’t get it? I, for one, am one of those who wish for it and then am pleasantly surprised by how all weather is great. Suppose it’s better than being in that situation where one will never again experience the weather.

Midday on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Midday and overcast. But it still looks great to me!

Here comes the sun and the wildflowers. On Alsek Lake in Alaska

Wandering around checking out the wildflowers when, guess who decides to show up. The sun, that’s who.

Soft velvety flower next to Alsek Lake in Alaska

To those of you who might really be appreciating the details I have been bringing to you here on my blog regarding the Alsek River: I am accepting donations that will allow me to spend a few months and half a dozen back-to-back trips down the river, so I can share even more with you. I should be able to pull this off with about $25,000. Got an extra grand you can spare?

Out on Alsek Lake in Alaska looking at the reflections on the beautifully rippling water

We have left camp to row out onto the lake. The weather is beautiful, and there are icebergs to inspect. In case this photo is too abstract, it is the lake’s surface with the mountains in the distance reflected in the water.

Icebergs floating in Alsek Lake, Alaska

The majority of our group has opted to explore the mosquito-infested island in the lake; this is perfect because we can now explore the lake in near-absolute silence.

A rock and dirt covered iceberg is the black sheep of icebergs on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Just as it fell from the glacier, this iceberg still carries with it the rocks and dirt it had accumulated over the decades as it slid closer to the water’s edge.

An iceberg from Alsek Lake in Alaska

Something rolled over not too far from us. It was at first a thrilling moment of wow, the low rumble, the craning our necks to find where the berg that just tumbled was, but nothing to be found. And then the tension started. From the wave created by the invisible iceberg rolling over, the ice between us and the rollover started crashing into each other. The sound of multi-ton massive chunks of ice can be more than a little unsettling. I start to wonder if this won’t trigger other bergs to roll, too, and here we are right out in the middle of them all.

The icebergs on Alsek Lake take on strange and sometimes familiar forms.

Strange and almost familiar forms can be seen in the ice; it’s almost like finding animals in the clouds.

A massive iceberg seen in Alsek Lake, Alaska

We try to find a path through the ice to go visit this 8-story tall massive iceberg, but our passage is blocked. Floating on the lake, drifting through icebergs, this is nothing short of spectacular.

A rock clings to the edge of an iceberg as it floats away from the glacier and towards the Pacific Ocean in Alaska

How this rock still clings to the edge of this iceberg appears to defy gravity. I’d like to know how long and from how far this rock has traveled. Soon, it will sink to the bottom of the lake, and we may be the only people on Earth in the entire history of our planet who will have ever seen this particular rock. It now joins the history of observed rocks.

The weather isn't perfect, but it does add dramatic effect here on Alsek Lake in Alaska

The weather isn’t perfect, but it does add a dramatic effect here on Alsek Lake. The other interesting aspect regarding the play of light, everything changes with the intensity of the sun or the shadows cast by the clouds. Look to the left of center the ice is deep blue; five minutes before, it was merely pale blue.

More icebergs in Alsek Lake, Alaska

Just like the rock above, this piece of ice seems to have mere days left before it becomes an independent mini-berg.

Blue iceberg in Alsek Lake, Alaska

Bruce is our guide out here, or should I say, the man letting us drift all over the place? If you’ve been even slightly intrigued by these images, let me suggest that you contact an outfitter and take yourself on a trip down the Alsek or maybe even the Tatshenshini; both rivers bring you to Alsek Lake! It’s cheaper than going to the Antarctic.

Iceberg on Alsek Lake in Alaska

We sat here a while, listening to the drip, drip, drip of the iceberg as the sound echoed out of the enclave. If only I could share the delicate sound with you, it alone would convince you that you, too, need to visit this remote corner of North America.

The sun reflecting off the silty water of Alsek Lake in Alaska

Silty water and sun, everything I need to see art. The qualities of water, of wild water, are something we will see very few times in our lives. Unless we are at the ocean, most water that humanity will encounter has been sequestered – it is, in a sense, dead water. But on free-running rivers, we see the turbulence, convulsion, elasticity, and randomness that change by the instant. There was a time not too long ago when any of us would have been far more familiar with the flow of this life-sustaining liquid.

Deep blue ice from a freshly turned over iceberg on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Stumbled upon this freshly turned-over iceberg. Could this be the piece that created the wave? We can’t know. No matter because at least we get to witness this incredible deep blue undulating and curved ice sculpture that elicits our oohs and aahs.

It's getting late in the day as golden light falls on Alsek Lake looking in the direction of the Pacific Ocean in Alaska

We continued floating and checking out the icebergs until it was time to turn back to shore and get busy with making dinner. Shaun stayed in camp today in order to get some things prepared for our departure from the river tomorrow. Hopefully, he has also started cooking. After the visitors to the island left their mosquito encounter, they paddled out onto the lake and joined us as we enjoyed the discarded ice that Alsek Glacier tossed into the lake.

Evidence of flooding on shore at Alsek Lake in Alaska

On the previous evening, I guessed that the driftwood onshore came from lake tsunamis; tonight, I get proof. While wandering around waiting for dinner, I was about 100 feet from shore when I noticed these exposed roots of plants that appeared to be growing well out of the ground. Then I figured it out: this is where the water drained off the ground and pulled the surrounding sand with it back to the lake, leaving these roots high and dry. Even on this scale, these details are nothing less than fascinating. Of course, this could also simply mean the lake level was higher at some point, but lake tsunami sounds way more dynamic – thrilling even!

Sitting around the campfire on our last night on the Alsek in Alaska

Spending our last “night” around the campfire. Tomorrow will be difficult, but tonight, we warm ourselves next to the flames and admire the surroundings. What an incredible day and an incredible journey down one of the few remaining wild rivers left on Earth.

Rafting The Alsek – Canada To Alaska Day 12

JWise Photo of the Day, Travels

On the Alsek River with a raft ahead showing the scale of our surroundings here in Alaska

What many of my photos can’t show you is the scale of the environment around us. Everyone knows Alaska is big, but they often don’t realize how big until they have an opportunity to visit. The raft in this photo is about one-quarter of a mile away (402 meters); as you can see, we are dwarfed by our surroundings. We waited around this morning before departing camp, “Maybe the weather will clear?” Nope, it’s overcast and lying down low.

Collecting fresh water from a mountain stream crashing into the Alsek River in Alaska

As has been routine during this journey, we need drinking water, and what better place to collect it than from a mountain stream crashing into the Alsek? We pull up, drive-through-like, and while holding onto some tree limbs, our boatman leans out, dipping a 5-gallon canister into the fastest-moving water until it’s full. We let go and drift away, and then the next boatman takes our place, filling his can and so on until we have enough water for the day. I wish I could share with you how amazing it is to drink fresh water that is untreated, -stored, -piped, -filtered, or otherwise touched by mankind. It is cold, fresh, and even a bit daring. How many of us don’t know what freshwater is, aside from it flowing out of a tap in our home? And so when we have this golden opportunity to get our first taste of “free-range” water, there is a moment of apprehension in which we playback the fear-mongering news about how all of our natural water sources are now polluted, are becoming rarer, carry microbes that can make us sick, but here we are taking water from mountain streams every day and living to tell the story. Next time I’m in Alaska, taking a drink from a fast-moving cascade of falling water will be my first indulgence.

Snow covered mountains where the snow reaches the riverside on the Alsek River in Alaska

Here we are, just seven days away from the 4th of July, with all the ambiance of winter surrounding us. This is deceiving as everything can change around the corner, and it often does. I consider myself lucky to have had this view. Should every day have been sunny, I would have left the Alsek with no idea what the area might look like during the months travelers cannot venture into this area of Alaska. Instead, I will have had a glimpse of those long winters that begin in late September and run through late May – with the added benefit of daylight!

Glaciers fall out of the mountains like cactus grow out of the desert. Next to the Alsek River in Alaska

Sure, there is the wondering of what lies hidden above the shroud, intrigue even, but this leaves us with a mystery that only the imagination can fill in. For me, maybe there’s a Yeti just out of sight, probably not, but you can’t see above the clouds to verify it wasn’t there.

Wildflowers off the Alsek River in Alaska

Out of winter and into springtime, or is it now summer? We pulled ashore on a narrow beach to share some lunch. Our landing serves two purposes though, the second being this is a great location for a short hike that would let the boatmen scout the entry into Alsek Lake.

Checking out the amazing rocks off the Alsek River in Alaska, because life isn't just about flowers and glaciers.

I know this is nothing more than rock, but how often in our urban lives do we see signs of a wild nature that used to be the earth we live on? I leave this here as my reminder that the details found in nature are not always easily explained, nor do they obey any laws of conformity or symmetry. I wonder how many of my fellow travelers took the time to see these details. From my observations, close to none.

The most beautiful flower ever found next to the Alsek River in Alaska.

This is the most beautiful flower ever discovered on the Alsek River in Alaska. It was surrounded by strawberry plants that, later in the season attest to its beauty by growing what must surely be the sweetest berries in all Alaska. The paw prints of a mighty large grizzly let us know that this patch belongs to a particular bear who must be awaiting its maturation; we choose not to wait for him.

The wildflowers burst forth in colors that damage the eyes. Next to the Alsek River in Alaska

The riot of color that bursts forth after viewing so much monochromatic landscape has been known to cause lasting damage to the eyesight of those not prepared for such an abrupt reintroduction to the palette of hues and tints that can be found in Alaskan wildflowers, such as with this example of Indian Paintbrush. A welder’s mask would do those folks well here.

Icebergs mounted in glass on Alsek Lake in Alaska

Over the hill and out of the blooming fields, we catch our first look at Alsek Lake. I would have shown you greater breadth, but maybe you don’t have the experience of seeing the immensity of nature in one fell sighting. So try these bits of bergs mirrored in the stillness of the lake, admire the blue ice cube in the background, and be dazzled by the reflection of the mountain tops that are just out of sight.

One of the glaciers entering Alsek Lake in Alaska

The majority of our group has taken off. The doors to Alsek Lake cannot be seen from this perspective; another lookout with a better overview is required, and that is where they left to. In order to enter the lake, there are three “doors” that can be used. The first door is also known as “The Channel of Death.” You can enter through Door Number 1, but it’s not the best choice. Once taken, there is no way out besides getting through the lake. You risk encountering big icebergs, and if they block the way, well, there is no portaging over them. The next choice is Door Number 2, better but not ideal. The door you want to use is Door Number 3, but, and you knew there was a but, Door Number 3 is a shallow channel. Not only might it be too shallow to run, but on a previous Alsek trip for our boatman Bruce, the first two doors could not be taken, and Door Number 3 was still frozen over – portage time.

We too would like to sit atop a log and grow like moss here in Alaska

No, this is not a self-portrait, though I would like to have sat next to the iceberg-filled lake and grown like moss on a log. We agreed to meet the rest of the group back at the beach we stopped for lunch. Time to go.

Passing through Door Number 3 into Alsek Lake in Alaska

We are passing through Door Number 3 on calm, shallow water. We admire the landscape while Bruce finds the deeper channels.

Wildflowers growing right out of the water on ground that is just inches higher than the earth around it that the lake now covers. On Alsek Lake in Alaska

This is how shallow the water is, mere inches deep. It’s possible that in a day or two, or maybe in the previous days, this channel may have been high and dry; today, luck is on our side.

Exiting Door Number 3 is Shaun Cornish and his raft full of travelers. On Alsek Lake in Alaska

Here’s Shaun having successfully exited Door Number 3, which’s right behind him. In the bucket and mounted on the back of the raft is some sorry-wet wood that will be used for our fire should we not find sufficient supplies once we land.

Our campsite on Alsek Lake in Alaska

As you can see surrounding our tents, there was plenty of driftwood in this camp. Moments after shooting this photo we heard a loud rumble in the lake but could not make out what rolled over. What we could see was a large wave radiating out and toward us. I was ready to head for the hills when we saw that the low-lying area of the lake in front of us diverted the wave left and right. All of a sudden, it became clear why there was so much driftwood on this shore – when really big stuff rolls over, the wave must be so large that it washes over this shore and deposits its collection of firewood here for easy access to the campers who call this home. Great, now how am I supposed to sleep knowing a lake tsunami could wash in overnight?