Thanksgiving – Coastal Style

The Cozy Cottage in Nehalem, Oregon

Let’s start with being thankful for last night’s dinner. Before dipping into this very American holiday today, we feasted last night on German grilled bratwursts from Heidelberg Bakery in Phoenix, Arizona. Our brats were wonderfully paired with some Mildessa sauerkraut. Two of the five brats from dinner and nearly half a can of the kraut ended up in our scrambled eggs this morning. We checked the internet last night to be sure we should try something that sounds kinda weird, but others were gung-ho about mixing these awkward ingredients together, so we gave it a shot and can assure you that we’d do it again. Pictured is the kitchen from the Cozy Cottage we found on Airbnb.

The Cozy Cottage in Nehalem, Oregon

This was our bedroom last night before we pulled off the blankets and pillows to make room for our comforter and pillows from home. But we weren’t ready for bed yet, not even close. We had a hot tub outside waiting for us, timed to bring it to peak temperature at 8:00 in the morning and 9:00 at night. Even before we got into that under a moonlit sky, we took a pastry-wrapped brie loaded with huckleberry from the Blue Heron Cheese Company out of the fridge and threw it in the oven. With apples left from the dozen we picked in Gold Beach, Caroline sliced some up for our dessert extravaganza of baked brie, compote, and apples. How we didn’t pass out right then remains a mystery, but somehow, we found the energy to venture into the cold evening air to bask in the hot tub. Andre, the owner of our accommodation, even provides an outdoor shower for rinsing off after getting out of the chlorinated water.

The Cozy Cottage in Nehalem, Oregon

This brings us to the here and now. Over to your right, and hardly visible, is our little red gate, which is a private entrance. To the right of that is the hot tub, which I hope to get a good photo of before we leave. Our turducken is thawed and ready for the oven; it will require 2.5 hours to bake, and we might be meeting a friend from up here later today, too. Right now, though, we are going for a mile-and-a-half walk (2.4km) each way down to the beach. The next photo you see is from that walk.

Forest floor in Nehalem, Oregon

We’d been back from our walk a few hours before I could muster the energy to start writing this stuff; maybe I needed a break after 15 straight days of writing. After lunch, I was able to load up the photos. And an hour later I managed to prepare them for posting and even uploaded them. Then they sat here neglected while I goofed off entertaining myself. Caroline’s been sitting behind me on the couch, knitting my socks while watching a documentary series about how we see things.

As for the walk, it was brilliant, perfect, wonderful, and every other superlative that I could list as I try to convey how much we appreciate these Thanksgiving Day walks along the ocean. Just take a look at the beauty of the sea and imagine yourself here on this gorgeous fall day.

Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

The other day, Caroline suggested we create a kind of “meta entry” about our trips to Oregon where we post an image taken from the 18 years we’ve been coming up here and feature them sequentially by location instead of date so we can see the extent of our stops. Today, we extended this to a meta entry about Thanksgiving, where we feature an image from all of the Thanksgivings we have photos for.

True, this little segue has nothing to do with this photo of Caroline cresting the grassy sand dune that will take us out to Manzanita Beach, but I’m at a bit of a loss to share anything else. I’m also aware enough that it isn’t so much what I write today that will be important as much as how it reads in the future when we are reminiscing about our longest-ever trip to Oregon. Minus drive time to and from Phoenix, Arizona, we’ll have been up here for 16 consecutive days. I wonder if this is possibly longer by twice than our longest previous vacations on the Oregon coast?

Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

A faint rainbow but a rainbow nonetheless. This could portend rain coming soon or that it’s moving on. Our positive vibe produces a feeling that whatever the weather did, it would have proven to be the perfect scenario for creating memories that will stand out as having helped form the best vacation ever. Until the next vacation to wherever it is, we go will win the mantle of Best Ever.

Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

To the south and from the north, the sky looked foreboding, but right overhead, the happiness of John and Caroline created a bubble of delight that everyone else on the beach was able to enjoy with us. How do I know it is us that are responsible for this phenomenon? Just ask Caroline for proof as she’ll join in my story that somehow, when we travel, we seem to have the perfect conditions and that a day rarely goes by, even in the cold seasons, when the sun doesn’t come out and smile upon us. To be honest, while probably needing to knock on wood, we never really understand other’s vacations where they complain that seemingly everything went wrong.

Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

Okay, there was this issue of too many people on the beach, but that happens every Thanksgiving. We can be out for a walk along the ocean the day before and the day after, and there won’t be a lot of people with us, but just before the feasting begins at midday, the throngs come out to build their appetites. You can see from the density we were all quite aware of the social distancing requirements.

Jellyfish at Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

There were a few jellyfish onshore and some tiny little baby jellyfish. You can see the individual grains of sand, so I hope you glean an idea of just how small this transparent bubble of jelly was.

Caroline Wise at Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

Taking a moment to think about the time we brought Jutta, Caroline’s mom up here, we checked to be sure it wasn’t too late in Germany and gave her a call from the beach. After that family connection, we called Caroline’s father, Hanns, on WhatsApp and were able to show him our location. I wish my mother-in-law was even a little tech-savvy like my father-in-law, as there’s so much more we could share with her. All the same, it’s always nice to hear her voice.

Oysters at Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

We saw a guy inspecting something on the beach; from afar, it looked like the carcass of a fish. As the surf came up, he dragged it ashore. We still couldn’t tell what it was, but we were heading right for him. He was on a video call showing a friend what he’d found: a large bag with hundreds of oysters in it. We asked for a peek into it as we’d never seen such a thing, and with that, he offered us all we’d like to take with us. Thanking him profusely for sharing his treasure, we only nabbed five of them, but before we got further down the beach, four of them found their way back into the sea. One came to the cottage with us.

We’ve had great oysters along the way during our travels, places we’d go back to because of the oysters. One thing we’ve never had is to eat an oyster that’s only been out of the ocean for an hour. For Caroline, this was a milestone because not only did she eat this mollusk, but she pried it out of its shell. No hot sauce, no lemon, just a bit of the seawater that was still in the shell, and she loved it.

Beach in Manzanita, Oregon

We were over 5 miles (8km) on our walk by the time we got back to the cottage, hungry and ready for some lazy time. Around 3:30, our Creole Pork Turducken Roll from the CajunGrocer in Louisiana was placed into the oven. At four pounds, it was recommended we cook it for 2.5 hours. Caroline nor I have ever had Cajun pork sausage stuffed into a chicken, stuffed into a duck, stuffed into a turkey, but we were willing to try it.

It’s 6:00 p.m. as I write this, and our Thanksgiving meal is sitting on the stovetop, resting for the recommended 20 minutes. It smells great, just like a traditional turkey dinner, really, but a taste test will need to happen before I can offer more. Yesterday, we made a Cranberry Jello Mold, an old recipe from my mom that features chopped cranberries, celery, and walnuts, with shredded apples, a bit of orange juice, a box of raspberry Jello, and while it may sound strange, it’s an all-time favorite of ours. Lastly, we also have a sweet potato to add a veggie to our dinner.

Cajun Sausage Stuffed Turducken from CajunGrocer in Louisiana

We’d do this again; the same cannot be said about the Tofurkey we tried years ago. The only thing missing was some gravy but we weren’t that prepared out on this journey for getting that detail-oriented. We have enough leftovers to add to our scrambled eggs with the last packet of Chinese pickled veggies for breakfast, and we have four slices for sandwiches. Come to think of it; maybe we’ll have open-face turducken with melted smoked brie for lunch if we are near the cottage.

Cranberry Jello Mold

Other than using cranberries for scones, this is the best dish ever for cranberry lovers. Because we’ve been doing our best to self-isolate on this trip, we brought our frozen cranberries with us instead of picking up fresh local ones. We couldn’t even be certain we’d find local cranberries as although the Oregon coast is a popular place to grow them, we don’t know what’s found in the local markets. Next up, a dip into the hot tub before heading to the bedroom where the TV is; we’ll be watching My Octopus Teacher and sharing a bag of microwave popcorn. I’m sharing this because all three of these activities are out of the ordinary for us.

Another Transition in Remote Self-Isolation

Dawn at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

We woke before 6:00 a.m. to a dark sky full of stars. Cassiopeia, the Big and Small Dippers, Orion, and others were still on hand for admiration from our cozy lair. Under the blanket, we were fantastically warm, while the room we were taking refuge in was pretty darned cold; we’d left the windows open overnight.

Caroline Wise at Shags Inn at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

Today, we check out of Ocean Haven by the sea. Typically, we are quick to exit a place and get on with the adventure, but here on our precarious cliffside, this is the adventure. We’ll pack, clean up, and otherwise get ready to leave, but we’re taking this right to 11:00 to enjoy every minute and absorb every detail.

Shags Inn at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

It’s 7 minutes before we’re supposed to be gone, but I needed to jot down a note and snap a few photos to reinforce the memories of one of the more perfect places we’ve ever had the luxury to enjoy. We leave on a sunny day with a calm blue ocean that stretches as far as the eye can see. We’ll miss this little cabin by the sea and long for the day we might return. Remote Self-Isolation has never been so good.

Shags Inn at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

There are times on vacation when what was intended on paper is altered by the circumstances of where the reality of the moment takes us. There are other times when I don’t make hard plans at all, as familiarity with a location or the desire for serendipitous experiences rule the day. Then there’s the conflict between the two where something was reserved and is now fixed unless we walk away from the money spent or we’d like to carve time out to do something we just learned of, but we are here on one of the two days that thing is closed. This is one of those times where I wish for flexibility, but the adjustment of things is now impossible. What I’m referring to is our time here at Ocean Haven; if we could cancel the rest of our lodgings and the Shags Nest weren’t booked solid, we’d be quite happy to stay right here.

Rarely have we planted ourselves in a location for an extended period of time and when we have, we had busy schedules that took us into a myriad of activities and sights and kept us running from dawn to sundown. The three days in Gold Beach, followed by the five days here in Yachats, removed us from the stressors arising from surviving in 2020. I’ve had to let go of what I might have done and seized on the opportunity to follow a plan of no plan. For eight days, it didn’t matter what we got done or where we went. Meeting family could have happened on any 1 of 3 days from morning till night; it could have been 30 minutes or 3 hours.

This flexibility has been great as we have not been rushed to accomplish anything at all. Sure, there’s a mild disappointment that the writing exercise I had in mind has not materialized yet, but then again, I feel disconnected from the ongoing insanity of our political and pandemic situation that was pursuing me while in Phoenix. With another full week up here on the coast, I might still get around to that writing, but I’m also prepared for a reality where that doesn’t happen, and I’ll just try to keep dumping whatever comes to mind here on the blog.

Caroline Wise at Bread & Roses Bakery in Yachats, Oregon

Everyone is wearing masks in Oregon. Everywhere we go, nobody is without one. Our first days on the coast we were extremely isolated and didn’t see many people. By now, we’ve seen a good number of Oregonians, and at every corner, masks are ubiquitous. We now keep them around our neck to pull them up quickly when we are in town. People outdoors on trails are masked up; if they are going to pass you walking down the street, they scramble to pull their masks on. Half the shops we’ve been in have a small table with hand sanitizer, while a couple even offer complementary masks. Here at the Bread & Roses Bakery in Yachats, the person at the counter following our transaction offered the two of us a couple of squirts of hand sanitizer, which simply felt polite. Regarding Caroline’s victory pose with a loaf of bread, she’s German, which should tell you everything.

Just before this stop for a pastry and the loaf of “Bremen Bread,” we were getting some fish and scallops to go from the Luna Sea Fish House. This was our second visit, and I’d bet a dollar that next week when we are heading back down the coast, we’ll be eating here once again. I’d like to point out that although it’s relatively cold, we’ve seen more than a few restaurants that come outside to take your order, run back inside to process your payment, and then bring your food out to you. Finally, our old favorites, Dutch Bros., have signs at the drive-thru’s that they’d appreciate customers wearing a mask when they pull up to the window; we’ve not seen the best compliance with that request.

Governor Patterson Memorial State Recreation Site in Waldport, Oregon

While we waited until 11:01 to leave Ocean Haven we still have about 5 hours left before we can check-in at the Moolack Shores Inn that is only 24 miles up the coast north of Newport. So, of course, one of the things we’re going to do is take advantage of one of the supposed last sunny days of this trip and take some long walks on the beach.

Caroline Wise at Governor Patterson Memorial State Recreation Site in Waldport, Oregon

This particular stretch is called the Governor Patterson Memorial State Recreation Site and is in Waldport. It’s November, it’s still in the 40s out here, though it’s warming up fast and Caroline has her shoes off so she can walk in the surf, the very cold surf. We’re at a point where there’s a lot of uncertainty if we’ve been to a particular place on a prior trip; some stand out clear as day, while others have some ambiguity if we’ve visited before. Caroline had a great idea for a project where we collate the other 19 travels here in Oregon into a meta-map that pinpoints everywhere we can verify a stop.

Driftwood Beach State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

While the sign isn’t as sexy as a view of the beach or as dramatic as a towering cliffside, these visual guides to trailheads full of warnings and even dog poop bags are seen nearly everywhere. I probably take them for granted these days, though I always try to photograph them as we start a walk so I can better identify our photos once the day comes to an end and I forget where we were.

John Wise and Caroline Wise at Driftwood Beach State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This smartphone photo was taken for Facebook but as I was scouring the other 153 DSLR photos I took today to find the 14 that best represented the day, I realized that I’ve not posted very many selfies on this trip. Photos of the two of us started being shot “selfie-style” about 20 years ago when people didn’t know how to operate our new digital cameras. While I’ve been getting some nice comments on my COVID hair, I’ve been reluctant to take photos of myself as my head looks kind of wild, but we still need photos of the two of us, so here’s this one.

Driftwood Beach State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

It’s bright out here and feels hot. While only about 55 degrees (13 Celsius), it’s pretty toasty here in the sun. There are no profound insights to report, no photos of jellyfish as we don’t see any, and the shorebirds are not very abundant.

Caroline Wise at Driftwood Beach State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

What I’d give to see the world through her eyes. I don’t even know if colors are perceived the same way I see them. I busy myself looking at the environment for photographic opportunities while Caroline will just stand there and look into the sea. As we walk along the shore, certain colors and shapes of things stand out to her and will inspire her to pick the object up to examine it; what qualities is she looking for? I don’t walk in the surf in November because the water is bone-chilling cold, well, to everyone except her and some kids who seem impervious to such trivialities. The one thing I can easily pick up on from my wife is when she looks at me after an extended session of communing with whatever it was she was staring at and she’s got the look of, “I need a hug!”

Sunset at Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Before we knew it, or about 4 hours after we left Yachats, we were passing through Newport. We kept on going beyond the obligatory Dutch Bros. stop in town; there was nothing else to do here. Briefly, we pulled over to examine some real estate listings in Depoe Bay, but come on, who’s paying $700,000 to $1.3 million for homes up here? With payments starting at $3,000 a month and up, there’s no way many locals earn enough to buy a home, so are all of these bought as rentals by investors? Enough of this futile search for future possibilities.

We are now at Boiler Bay north of Depoe Bay. The ocean is too calm for the fireworks that are often witnessed here as the ocean crashes into the cliffs and throws frothing water high into the sky but that doesn’t diminish the beauty either.

Caroline Wise at Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Speaking of beauty at Boiler Bay. *SIGH*

Moolak Shores north of Newport, Oregon

We are checked in here at the Moolack Shores Inn, our second time staying at this oceanfront little place. It’s very modern, and after the seclusion of the previous week, it feels a bit loud and crowded, but it’s where we are staying for a couple of days before moving further up the coast. This post could have been called “Dawdling 2,” but I don’t want to establish a routine that could influence how we see our next days.

Evening view from Moolack Shores Inn in Newport, Oregon

Note: I’ve not made an effort to share our meals as that is relatively mundane; everyone eats. I might have noted this in a previous post, but our rentals all have kitchens as we’d decided to avoid restaurants and a lot of carryout meals to minimize contact with others. There are exceptions, such as the excellent Luna Sea Fish House, a possible stop at Newport Cafe for a little burger, and we’ve discussed stopping at Gallucci’s Pizzeria in Lincoln City; while we’re not really interested in their pizza, we are fixated on a crazy mock-New York-Italian intonation of the name “Gallucci,” which is enough for us to finally succumb to trying it.

Anyway, back to our meals in this footnote. I made a batch of my homemade granola specifically for this trip. In between, we eat scrambled egg dishes with various Chinese veggies and sometimes leftover whatever is thrown in. Lunch has mostly been sandwiches of ham, peanut butter, egg salad, and even fresh chicken salad. Dinners have included seared scallops, grilled walleye, cajun stuffed pork chops, Kadai paneer (a favorite Indian cheese dish of ours), beans, a chicken stirfry, and a Mexican stirfry. Coming up we have corona beans, broiled filet, grilled bratwurst, pasta, Turducken, and finally, spaghetti squash.

I’d like to say that cooking on vacation has added to the sense of isolation, and I don’t mean that in the pandemic sense we’ve been living with, but the being outside of our typical vacation routine. On holidays, we normally eat nearly every meal at restaurants, which at times is nothing more than an extension of being at home, where we’d eat out more often than not. So, while cooking is a new part of our routine at home, it’s now a new part of our travels, and I feel it really adds to the feeling of being away.

Lost 40 Degrees

Del Mar in Southern California

With some reluctance, I drove west until I could go no further. I’m here in Del Mar just north of San Diego, but I’m here without Caroline. This is where the reluctance comes in because I agreed to be a house sitter and watch Drake the Dog while a couple of friends head over to Sweden for some vacation. It’s not that I’m reluctant to watch the dog and chill in the cool coastal air found over here, but without Caroline, the experience will be bittersweet.

When I finally got out of Phoenix the mercury was heading north and by the time I was about halfway to the ocean, it was a solid 116 degrees or about 47c. Here at the seashore, a pleasant 76 degrees greeted me; the 40-degree difference in temperature made for a stark contrast from the desert I was in just about 90 minutes prior.

On The Pacific Ocean

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

We stayed overnight near Camarillo so we’d be near our departure point on the Pacific Ocean.

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

Caroline, Jutta, and I were on board a boat heading out to the Channel Islands.

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

It was a perfect day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

With calm oceans, the sun shining, and a slight coolness in the air, but for a late November day, it was perfect weather.

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

When we arrived at the islands, the step to get off the boat was a bit precarious and left me more nervous than Caroline and her mom. With some cajoling, I convinced them it was better to stay on board. Lucky for us, the Captain of our craft was good with that and took us on a slow tour of the island.

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

We learned more about the history of the island and efforts to preserve it. Spotted this natural arch and some scuba divers who were close to the mouth of the inlet.

On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

The waters were obviously clear. On a nearby rock outcropping, a bunch of cormorants were sunning their wings, just enjoying the day as we were.

Jutta Engelhardt On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

I have to admit that it was often difficult to see the still hurt little girl inside my sometimes brusk mother-in-law. She didn’t really want to have a sense of humor, but she knew how to laugh, and it’s always been a delight when it comes out of her. I never really know if she enjoys everywhere, we take her or if she’s just happy to hang out with us and see our happiness. I’ll miss this smile when it’s gone; I hope it lives on within me for the rest of my life.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise On the Pacific Ocean in Southern California

I cannot tell you how this smiling woman is gracing me with such a beautiful gaze, but I know I love her dearly. Today was a bit difficult because of me as I really kind of insisted we stay on the boat, and they both knew I was a bit disappointed. They tried reassuring me that we should try to have Jutta step off the boat but my sense was too strong that Jutta’s strength wasn’t there if she were to slip. So, through what likely appeared as gnashed teeth, I told them I was fine. They both knew better. Not to say we didn’t have a great time on the ocean exploring the island from near the shore but they know I can be difficult. It’ll weigh heavily on me that these memories of not always being easy to deal with.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt at the Red Lion Tavern in Los Angeles, California

Back on land and down south, we stopped in at the Red Lion Tavern in the Silver Lake district of Los Angeles for some German food. Not only did my mother-in-law finish that big dark beer but she had a couple of shots of Kirschwasser, and I think it was those two drinks that did her in as she was pretty tipsy as we were leaving. The day closed out with us checking into a motel before heading back to Phoenix the next morning.

California Coast

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Disclaimer of sorts, as with the first post from this Labor Day weekend in Los Angeles, this post wasn’t penned and pushed into the sunlight until the summer of 2023, 11 years after the events depicted took place. And so, without further ado, let’s jump into the sea. Once again, we awoke at the Wilshire Motel, except this time, we bolted north on Highway 101 because we had a date with a yarn store in Santa Barbara.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

Being who we are (meaning: John and Caroline, just to be clear), we were not going to drive by the ocean without stopping to admire where the sea meets the shore, gaze at how the sun is illuminating all of this, and hold out until we spot a bit of wildlife.

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Well, these seagulls will do just fine for our wildlife encounter. Time to continue the trek north.

Backyard Bowls in Santa Barbara, California

This was not our first time to Backyard Bowls for breakfast here in Santa Barbara, not even our second or third. Looking for a fresh treat to start the day with a bunch of fruit atop acai or porridge? Then this place is for you. Note to Caroline, who will edit this before it’s published: Backyard Bowls now has locations in the Los Angeles area; just saying.

Santa Barbara, California

The beautiful hibiscus flower is also a tasty treat, especially when used in tea.

The Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

We are visiting the Casa Covarrubias Adobe, built in 1817, which is now a historical landmark here in Santa Barbara, California. It’s also one of the oldest buildings from the earliest days when the city was just taking shape.

Loom at the Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

If there are tools of the fiber trade, then you just know that Caroline would be looking for a photo, and this loom featuring some ancient parts fits that bill.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

I can’t remember if we sampled the grapes growing here. I’d like to think I did, but I’m also fairly certain that Caroline would have reminded me that if everyone helped themselves, there’d be nothing left for photos of yummy grapes still on the vine glowing in the morning sun.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

Just where the adobe gives way to the El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park is lost on me in long-forgotten memories, and I’m too lazy at the moment to tease them apart. I’m astonished at our good luck in visiting the Santa Barbara area mostly when the weather is stunningly perfect.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

It’s a short walk over to the County Courthouse of Santa Barbara, another historic site.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

This is the Mural Room; it was once the County Supervisors’ Assembly Room.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

The courthouse opened in 1929 following a devastating earthquake; it would come to define the architectural style that Santa Barbara is known for.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

View from the courthouse clock tower. Is there any wonder why Santa Barbara has become one of the greatest places to live in the United States?

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting the Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

If we were millionaires or willing to not have a life beyond a mortgage, we’d live here. Instead, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves that we can afford the luxury of frequent visits.

Arlington Theater in Santa Barbara, California

The Arlington Theater was built in 1931 and can seat 2,000 visitors, no wonder they host concerts here in addition to showing films.

Caroline Wise at Loop & Leaf in Santa Barbara, California

NO! Did someone assume because it’s the weekend that, the very reason for visiting Santa Barbara, the Loop & Leaf yarn and tea shop would be open? Sadly for my morose-faced wife, her opportunity to splurge on the only real luxury she shops for has been squashed.

La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara, California

Nothing left to do but eat the blues away under a pretty blue sky. Based on a tip, we’ll endure the lengthy line here at La Super-Rica Taqueria because the food is that highly recommended. Was it worth it? With a super enthusiastic exclamation of Muy Rico! Yes, it was worth the wait.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

One more stop at the oceanside for a walk in the sand before continuing south as we’re staying one more night at the Wilshire Motel.

Mashti Malone's Ice Cream in Hollywood, California

Based on this image, we can be certain we had ice cream at Mashti Malone’s, but nothing else is known about the evening. Where’d we have dinner? Did we catch a movie, walk around Hollywood or Santa Monica? Nada is known, no photos, no notes, no nothing.

Fallen

Dutch Bros. Coffee in Newport, Oregon

February 2023 update: this post is being updated from 2 photos, which in itself was rare back in 2006, with a few more of the images that defined the day for Caroline and me. Gleaned from cold storage and not in the original text, we left our most excellent yurt at Beverly Beach State Park in the dark, stopping at Dutch Bros. also in Newport, Oregon, for coffee and driving south to North Bend before dipping into the Pancake Mill for breakfast two hours later.

Pancake Mill Restaurant in North Bend, Oregon

A bit of a boring photo for sure, but sometimes, the boring must accompany the stellar in order for contrast to be well understood. There was likely something else at work that we succumbed to while out here in Oregon, the need to linger for another moment in the gray. Nothing quite like hanging out in a diner, cafe, or restaurant to linger in the vibe we reluctantly must leave.

Coquille River Lighthouse at Bullards Beach State Park in Bandon, Oregon

Today will be all about the southerly direction we must go, and it is with that reality that we find ourselves adjacent to the Coquille River Lighthouse at Bullards Beach State Park in Bandon. Our original plan was to cut from the coast to U.S. Highway 5 for a faster drive home, but poor weather in the mountains and bridge repairs in Northern California have us taking the long, slow, scenic way home along the coast.

Bandon, Oregon

And, of course, we must stop for these moments of blue sky as it may be all we’ll witness on this day.

Face Rock in Bandon, Oregon

If only Face Rock, also in Bandon, could talk, I’d ask it how many days it has been witness to blue skies, though I might also enquire if it has seen a stray UFO here or there.

Abandoned home roadside in Oregon

Of course, I wanted to enter this abandoned house, but things we relatively kept up, meaning for all I knew, the place only looked as though no one was living there.

Port Orford, Oregon

No time to go down to the docks here at Port Orford. Heck, what am I even doing with all this driving still ahead of me?

Near Gold Beach, Oregon

I know we are trying to keep a solid pace, but how can I just drive by this scene at Gold Beach, ignoring its aesthetic brilliance?

Meyers Creek Beach near Gold Beach, Oregon

This may well turn out to be the most dramatic shot I’ll ever shoot of the shark fin rock here at Meyers Creek Beach, but that doesn’t imply I won’t try again and again over the approaching years of doing better.

Hitchhiker in Crescent City, California

For a minute, we felt sympathy for this guy; we even refused his offer of money. He wasn’t with us long before he needed to get out of our car. The lesson was learned: guys too well dressed for small-town America hitchhiking are probably sociopaths, and as soon as you tune into the crazy talk, it might even be better to boot them from the car with the first verbal transgression. Lucky for him, we took him as far as Eureka before insisting that there was no way he was going any further with us.

Redwoods in Northern California

After filling up on Dutch Bros. again, this time in Eureka after ditching creeper dude, we stopped in at the Humboldt Redwoods State Park to commune with nature and wash our mistake off of us, only to record here on the blog for posterity.

Leave of fall among the Redwoods in California

Sunlight has started to fade, and yet we still have 300 more miles of driving before reaching Santa Cruz, California, south of San Francisco. Should we make it to our hoped-for destination, we’ll have covered more than 700 miles today.

Chinese Restaurant in San Francisco, California

Speaking of San Francisco, why not pull into the city for a dinner break? Oh, this looks interesting: Hakka cuisine in the style of Szechuan flavors, and we were the only non-Chinese customers; as a matter of fact, I think that even the menu presented us with some challenges. We ended up with a whole fish that we split before returning to the road for the final leg of today’s journey.

Hawaii Vacation – Day 8 (Kauai)

Maui, Hawaii

Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago. 

Take advantage of every possible moment where experience and memories might be found, and with that, we were up, packed, and checked out of our hostel just as the sun was rising. Being in Wailuku and having some hours before our flight, we are driving up the Kahekili Highway

Maui, Hawaii

It turns out that being away from the cities and popular beaches of the Hawaiian islands, total serenity and a peaceful countryside still exists.

Maui, Hawaii

I don’t know how far we traveled on the Kahekili Highway, though by most any measure, is a single-lane road really ever a highway?

Caroline Wise and John Wise flying to Kauai, Hawaii

The flight is under an hour, but for only $29 each as an upgrade price, this might be the cheapest we’ll ever be able to fly first-class, so we took the deal. I hope we look appropriately smug sitting in such grandeur.

Flying to Kauai, Hawaii

Flying over Middle Loch of Oahu, approaching the Pearl Harbor Memorial that will be on our left. Maybe a future visit will bring us to Oahu for a longer visit.

Flying to Kauai, Hawaii

Approaching the Garden Isle of Kauai and the final island, we’ll be visiting during this vacation.

Kauai, Hawaii

The rest of our vacation will be spent here on Kauai, amongst greenery and rainbows.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Finding affordable lodging options on these islands wasn’t easy. First, on the Big Island, we stayed in the primitive cabin at Volcanoes National Park, then on Maui, our nights were spent in a hostel; Molokai didn’t offer many options, so the Hotel Molokai was it. Here on Kauai, I’d seen these cabins at Kahili Mountain Park that were part of the Kahili Adventist School. We are not members of the Seventh-day Adventist denomination, but that didn’t stop me from finding an angle in which Caroline and I were allowed to rent one of their cabins for the next three nights.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

That’s our exquisite cabin under Kahili Mountain, and believe it or not, this was the cheapest option I could find on the island. Hence, I worked hard to get ourselves into this incredible location. On the right of the cabin, there are some light-colored leaves, those are banana leaves and where our outdoor shower is located.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

I claimed the bed; Caroline will have to make do with the rug next to me or sleep in one of the chairs. Just kidding, there’s a larger bed directly across from this, so I’ll take it, and Caroline can have the child’s bed.

Kahili Adventist School in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Yes, the shower indeed has a door and wall around it, but is otherwise wide open.

Tree Tunnel in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Situated in a cabin we could just stay at the entire time if it weren’t for the fact that we were on Kauai, we were quickly gone driving down a tree tunnel to Koloa on a recommendation.

Poke bowl from Koloa Fish Market on Kauai, Hawaii

That recommendation was for the Koloa Fish Market and specifically the Poke Bento. This little box lunch of raw Ahi tuna sprinkled with a coating of seaweed, sesame seed, and sea salt over a bed of white rice with a thin layer of wasabi cream became an instant favorite and a dish we ate for breakfast the next two days.

Spouting Horn Park in Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

The appropriately named Spouting Horn Park in Koloa.

Fruit vendor near Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

These ladies’ fruit stand would prove indispensable to us because not only did they have amazing tropical fruit, but one of the ladies cut up our pineapple for us in the most unique way that allowed it to remain relatively whole but later could be pulled apart and eaten off the skin like corn-on-the-cob.

Kauai, Hawaii

We are gathering a new definition of lush.

Kauai Soto Zen Temple in Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaii

Kauai Soto Zen Temple in Hanapepe on our way to points north of Waimea.

Caroline Wise at Jo-Jo's Shave Ice in Waimea, Kauai, Hawaii

Jo-Jo’s Shaved Ice was also an instant classic; I had the plain ice with passion fruit, mango, and guava, while Caroline opted for Halo Halo Shave Ice, which is decked out with shredded coconut, coconut gel, ice cream, azuki bean, and mixed fruit all topped with shaved ice and then a layer of haupia cream.

Kauai, Hawaii

We followed the road a little further into Kekaha before deciding to turn around and head to where we were supposed to be going, up the Waimea Canyon Drive.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Waimea Canyon from an unnamed lookout.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

View from the Hohonu Awawa Lookout.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Near the Awa’awapuhi Trail Parking.

Near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

Pu’u O Kila Lookout

Caroline Wise and John Wise near the Nāpali Coast on Kauai, Hawaii

On the edge between the Kōkeʻe State Park and the Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park at the end of Highway 550.

A rainbow glows before Kaanakeakua in the background as we look across the Kekaha Ditch on Kauai, Hawaii

Some rainbows don’t illicit a stop as they appear so frequently, but then there are others where the glow combined with an opportune spot to pull over demands we take a pause to appreciate it and try to grab a decent photo. This rainbow sits in front of Mount Kaanakeakua.

Kauai, Hawaii

The Kekaha Lookout.

Kauai, Hawaii

Just south of the Kekaha Lookout.

Sunset near Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii

Sunset on Poipu Beach.

A turtle in the sea Kauai, Hawaii

We saw our first sea turtle in the wild – right at the shoreline, but I was a bit slow getting a better photo.

Old Koloa Town on Kauai, Hawaii

If the Koloa Fish Market didn’t close at midday, we’d have had dinner there instead; we had to find something else, and that something wasn’t as memorable as our poke bento or the fish we had on Molokai. You’ve got to love those moments that leave indelible memories.