This is Sharon, she has been renting Caroline and I cars for our long road trips for more than five years now. Sharon is the franchise owner of a local outlet of Budget Rent A Car at 17023 N. Black Canyon Highway in Phoenix. Living in Phoenix, It is a rarity to do business with the same person for such a long period of time and we are super appreciative of it. Our car was due yesterday but I was so exhausted and short of time that I requested an extra day for the same rate and sure enough, lucky me, got it. Unless Sharon is planning on retiring early, we will continue doing business with her long into the future.
We’re Home
I’m so tired. Home at 2:30 a.m., up again at 7:00 – we slept in. The litter pan is full, the mailbox is full, but my head is empty. The rental car will have to be returned tomorrow. I am going to have a bite to eat and go back to sleep. Slept most of the day and went to sleep early in the evening. Nothing unpacked, didn’t listen to voice-mail, couldn’t cook. Maybe there is some truth to those words people keep telling me, that as I get older we won’t be able to travel as we have been. Right now those nearly 1500 miles (2430km) in two days of driving are taking their toll.
Sunrise in Santa Cruz
The day starts shortly before 6:00 a.m., and lucky for us it did. This sunrise is courtesy of our perch on the shore in Santa Cruz, California.
Our excellent breakfast was at Linda’s Seabreeze Cafe, which, along with the lighthouse view, made for the perfect beginning to the day.
Of special note: this post is being updated in February 2023 with the addition of 13 photos that were also taken during this trip from November 2006. They weren’t included back then as bandwidth limitations restricted be to 1 photo per post. The original text that described the day has been distributed between the new photos and, where possible, expanded upon.
Monterey begged us to stop to visit some of the locations we had just finished reading about in Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. Visiting the aquarium today wasn’t to happen as with more than 700 miles needing to be covered, free time is at a premium.
Maybe stupidly, maybe indulgently, we opted to skip Highway 101, which travels inland at quite a fast pace and took good old Highway 1 south along the coast.
We are suckers for the Pacific; even if it does mean we won’t get home until almost 2:30 in the morning. The weather along the coast was picture-perfect all day.
We often stop to take photos of places we’d like to stay in the future but nearly always fail to reference the old directories to find those clues. Maybe if I’d been able to write extensive posts during these days, we’d have had an easier way of finding the hints but the truth is that blog posts are not always easy things to search when looking for specific information.
Caroline asked for a stop at the Big Sur River Inn General Store to pick up her all-time favorite Eucalyptus Soap from Big Sur Country Soap. A coffee stop at the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant is now a part of our routine – we have lost count of how many times we have been here. The view is from Nepenthe Restaurant and gift shop.
If it were possible to commit every shift in perspective to be experienced along the central California coast in our memories, Caroline and I would collect and cherish each and every one. Having made this pilgrimage seemingly countless times and finding the reality of our adventures no less exciting than the first journey, the photos drawn from those days work to draw us back and remind us of how fortunate we’ve been to drive Highway 1 as frequently as we have.
One hundred years ago, the only way anyone was going to see this view was to take a seriously long walk from points inland, or they would have boarded a ship plying California’s coastal waters, dropping the person at one of the few ports so they could make the cumbersome travel over the rugged terrain. Today, we jump in the car and drive 15 to 20 times faster than we could walk and pull over to take it all in. We live in an incredible age where I don’t think we always see clearly how lucky we are.
Lucia Lodge is not cheap, but the location is hard to beat.
A final pullover to see the elephant seals near San Simeon once again, and then it was serious business to get home – it took another 12 hours before we would put our sleepy heads to rest.
Okay, just one more look back at the beautiful sea.
While we didn’t have time to visit the James Dean Memorial itself, we snapped this photo to remind us to return. As of 2023, we’ve passed through here a few more times but still haven’t paid homage to the memorial.
Fallen
February 2023 update: this post is being updated from 2 photos, which in itself was rare back in 2006, with a few more of the images that defined the day for Caroline and me. Gleaned from cold storage and not in the original text, we left our most excellent yurt at Beverly Beach State Park in the dark, stopping at Dutch Bros. also in Newport, Oregon, for coffee and driving south to North Bend before dipping into the Pancake Mill for breakfast two hours later.
A bit of a boring photo for sure, but sometimes, the boring must accompany the stellar in order for contrast to be well understood. There was likely something else at work that we succumbed to while out here in Oregon, the need to linger for another moment in the gray. Nothing quite like hanging out in a diner, cafe, or restaurant to linger in the vibe we reluctantly must leave.
Today will be all about the southerly direction we must go, and it is with that reality that we find ourselves adjacent to the Coquille River Lighthouse at Bullards Beach State Park in Bandon. Our original plan was to cut from the coast to U.S. Highway 5 for a faster drive home, but poor weather in the mountains and bridge repairs in Northern California have us taking the long, slow, scenic way home along the coast.
And, of course, we must stop for these moments of blue sky as it may be all we’ll witness on this day.
If only Face Rock, also in Bandon, could talk, I’d ask it how many days it has been witness to blue skies, though I might also enquire if it has seen a stray UFO here or there.
Of course, I wanted to enter this abandoned house, but things we relatively kept up, meaning for all I knew, the place only looked as though no one was living there.
No time to go down to the docks here at Port Orford. Heck, what am I even doing with all this driving still ahead of me?
I know we are trying to keep a solid pace, but how can I just drive by this scene at Gold Beach, ignoring its aesthetic brilliance?
This may well turn out to be the most dramatic shot I’ll ever shoot of the shark fin rock here at Meyers Creek Beach, but that doesn’t imply I won’t try again and again over the approaching years of doing better.
For a minute, we felt sympathy for this guy; we even refused his offer of money. He wasn’t with us long before he needed to get out of our car. The lesson was learned: guys too well dressed for small-town America hitchhiking are probably sociopaths, and as soon as you tune into the crazy talk, it might even be better to boot them from the car with the first verbal transgression. Lucky for him, we took him as far as Eureka before insisting that there was no way he was going any further with us.
After filling up on Dutch Bros. again, this time in Eureka after ditching creeper dude, we stopped in at the Humboldt Redwoods State Park to commune with nature and wash our mistake off of us, only to record here on the blog for posterity.
Sunlight has started to fade, and yet we still have 300 more miles of driving before reaching Santa Cruz, California, south of San Francisco. Should we make it to our hoped-for destination, we’ll have covered more than 700 miles today.
Speaking of San Francisco, why not pull into the city for a dinner break? Oh, this looks interesting: Hakka cuisine in the style of Szechuan flavors, and we were the only non-Chinese customers; as a matter of fact, I think that even the menu presented us with some challenges. We ended up with a whole fish that we split before returning to the road for the final leg of today’s journey.
Sea Birds at Sunset
We emerged this morning from very special lodgings. When I was making reservations, it turned out that the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park only had a deluxe yurt available for us, so we stayed in this posh supersized yurt that went beyond the simple space heater and a light. It was fully ADA-accessible, featuring a refrigerator, microwave, TV, and VCR (VHS tape only), shower, toilet, even a kitchen sink.
Update in February 2023: I’ve been adding images to some old posts where a visual deficit once existed. Regarding this wonky panorama, this was a work in progress for Caroline that was never finished. Back when I originally posted it, I liked the idea that others might be able to see that there are approximately a dozen images used for building this photo. While I could have rebuilt it using Lightroom, which would have likely done a great job, there’s something warm and fuzzy about the memory of how much work it once took to build up panoramas.
Let the Umpqua Lighthouse guide the way for our absurd 150-mile drive north that will see us needing to turn around and drive south to Newport today for the yurt we already have booked. Why would we do such a thing? Meeting a friend and learning about the effectiveness of oven bags in containing smells, pungent smells.
Good thing we enjoy these crazy long drives; at least they leave us with indelible impressions and a passion for return visits.
That’s Heceta Head Lighthouse in the distance and the keeper’s house on the right.
I can only wonder about how many times over the years I’ll write about this spot on the side of the road once known as Sealines Nautical Shop. When it was open, and we could have stopped by, we figured we didn’t have enough time or enough money and that we’d catch it on another trip; well, it closed down.
Even though it was closed, the figures that first drew our attention stood outside for a number of years…and then it was all gone besides the shop that has never been reoccupied. The shop was just south of Yachats.
This is The Lookout at Cape Foulweather in Otter Rock, south of Depoe Bay. It is here and available to us visitors due to the generosity of Wilbur S. and Florence Badley, who back in 1928 gave the land to the state of Oregon with the stipulation the land not be developed and remain for public enjoyment; what great people they were.
This is the view south of Cape Foulweather.
I have no real idea where it was when we spotted these sea lions on a narrow shelf trying to catch some zzz’s as the waves washed over them.
Over the years, I’ll photograph these three rocks in Siletz Bay from all angles, and rarely do they look the same.
We went as far as Tillamook to pick up some cheese and marionberry pie ice cream cones. Unfortunately, our favorite Tillamook cheese manufacturer and shop, Blue Heron, was closed due to recent flooding, so there were no sandwiches with smoked brie for us today.
One detail neglected in the original post was that we traveled this far north only to turn around as we were meeting with an old friend who was paying back a debt with a certain kind of green currency, so to speak. This is where the oven bags came into play.
The image above was taken on Cape Meares Beach just off the Three Capes Scenic Drive, where half a dozen sea birds dart back and forth with the waves as they forage for a morsel late in the day.
The Cape Meares Lighthouse.
While listed as being in Tillamook, this wayside is south of Oceanside and is another example of the generosity of someone who saw the value in keeping views like this unobstructed by the greed for individuals to own something so rare that should remain for all of us. Thank you, Percy Symons, for your donation.
We stopped by the Lincoln City Glass Center in Lincoln City. The seed has been planted, and now we must return one day for Caroline to make something of glass for the two of us.
It was rather late when we arrived at tonight’s yurt, but not so late that the raccoons here at Beverly Beach State Park in Newport weren’t happy to see us. Have I shared yet that we love yurts?
The Oregon Coast
Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon, could be where you pull your own head up off a pillow if you were staying overnight in a yurt; it works for us.
You might figure it out on your own, but I’ll help you understand something about this photo. We are in love with Dutch Bros. coffee, and while we might want you to believe that it’s due exclusively to the quality of the drink, it may also be a reflection that it is inextricably linked to our love affair with the Oregon coast and our embuing what we can to that deep appreciation.
We all know that seagulls are always on the hunt for food, but did you know that some are brave enough to eat from your hand? The question you need to ask yourself is, are you brave enough to have wildly flapping bird wings in your face?
Okay, time to finish our coffee, bird feeding, and stroll on the beach to go check out of our yurt.
The Winchuck yurt at Harris Beach State Park as we knew it, but now, we find ourselves leaving yet another dreamy experience from the book of happy places.
Just north of Brookings, we take aim for Cape Ferrelo and that’s just where we are. It’ll be about 125 miles later today before we get to our yurt at the Umpqua Lighthouse.
I’m guessing that as Caroline is carrying our new umbrella, courtesy of our great aunt and uncle Tata and Woody, the threat of rain must have still been present, though as is usual, I frame the photo to best exemplify the day and our attitude towards it. Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint is part of the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor.
But look the other way, and things might look very different, which is likely the inspiration to be prepared with that massive umbrella.
Many of our travels are orientation visits to take in as much as possible in a relatively short span of time. If we find we like the place more than others, we will make plans for a return visit. After the second or third trip, we became familiar enough with this new location to want to know more and more, and so it is with the Oregon Coast.
A few miles north, we find ourselves on Whaleshead Beach.
Barely a mile north again, we have finally become aware of the 360-mile long (583km) Oregon Coast Trail. Our next visit to Oregon will definitely focus on hiking at least a 10-mile stretch over the course of a day and, if time allows, a bit more. This segment of the trail is at the Indian Sands Viewpoint.
We are the Port Orford dock, and while this photo may not be very dockish, crab pots are not something we’ll ever see in Phoenix, Arizona, well, unless California actually does fall into the ocean someday.
Time for a bite to eat in Winchester Bay at this floating restaurant. What a sweet, floating, cozy little place, perfect for us, and it’s just around the corner from our yurt at the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park.