Hello 2011

Looking south down the California coast near Gorda

The tempest rolled in, dragging with it the bluster and fury needed to dispose of one year and usher in the next. Inside our oversized bird’s nest, we were cozy and protected from the elements, the expectation for some rain wasn’t going to deter us from our night outdoors. We were like two snuggling birds side by side, bringing in the new year. What we hadn’t anticipated was the wind, which came on well past the time we had crawled up the ladder to take shelter. Somewhere in the middle of the night and day, it started to howl, forcing us to tie down the rain fly in an attempt to stop it from flapping against the tent. While the wind would wake us with an occasional gust, it never rose to the point of dislodging us.

It would take the light of day to rattle us out of our cage and push us from our nest to perform ablutions. Finished with that, we fluttered over to the feeding grounds to hunt and peck out a morning meal. There were no worms offered to us highly evolved birds, although I will admit to a bit of a fetish for the seeds and nuts that were readily available in this spread laid out before us. Human beaks being what they are, we resorted to eating Treebone’s locally-made peanut granola with instruments and bowls. Grazing ain’t nothing if not taken seriously, so once done with the first course, it was on to the make-’em-yer-self-waffles. Throw on some banana and syrup, and we were in forager heaven. We lingered for a while near the fire with a cup of coffee and enjoyed watching the day come alive, with the rest of the flock joining us here on the hill over the ocean in this forest of Treebones.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the California coast under a rainbow

When we do finally take off, we fly into rainbows. If I were to write a blog entry about the number of rainbows Caroline and I have seen on our various travels, I am certain that hundreds of rainbow photos would accompany the narrative.

A mist and cloud enshrouded California coast on the Pacific Coast Highway

Out of the band of color, back into the gray low cloud mist, hugging the coast and shortening the more typical long-distance views that are a major attraction of visiting the wild coast. Even this light, this dark, and for some dismal weather is beautiful to Caroline and me; it adds mystery to the environment and makes having the heater on in the car feel extra cozy.

A rainbow over the Big Sur coast in California

Not satisfied with a singular rainbow, we are so lucky to enjoy rainbows! An hour and a half up the road and not very far from the first and easily assumable only rainbow we’d likely see this day, the surprise of surprise happens, and we see another rainbow. Peaks of blue sky escaped the hold of the gray shroud of weather, wishing to be bad. Onward and upward, we fly against the instinct that commands us to go south for the winter. We are determined to follow rainbows and continue on this northerly trek. With this commitment, we flew hard, covering almost 60 miles in little more than 2 hours.

Jellyfish at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

The prospect of a rainy windy day at the seaside made the warm shelter of an old favorite hangout shine sunny enthusiasm upon us for our return to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. We couldn’t swim with the fishies, but we could enjoy watching them doing their swimmy thing. For hours, we walked along and took great pauses to revisit the jellyfish, silver dollars, the octopus, the giant kelp forest, a sea cucumber that needed petting, and even the good old chiton. More fish than you can shake an eel at are here at the aquarium.

Seahorse at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

So are screaming little shits. This could have been a perfect day, but it seems that parents forgot that parenting in some small way implies a minimum of guidance, and a sense of decorum should be instilled in their charges. But these parents were having none of that, or maybe New Year’s Day is scream-your-head-off-day, and no one told us. Enough of these cackling chicks and hens; time to face facts and fly south.

A little fishy at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Okay, but just one more fish or two, and then we’ll be ready to go.

Turtle at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

But wait, there’s more, such as this green sea turtle that came right up to the glass posing for us.

Inside the kelp forest at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Just a final glance at the Kelp Forest, and then we’ll leave, so says Caroline the Aquarium Addict.

The Big Sur coast in California

En route south for our return to the Birds Nest, we stopped at “Our Beach,” a.k.a. Garrapata State Park, which had been skipped on the way up due to the little ground covered during the meander north. Too many of those, “OH stop, this spot is even more beautiful than the last” moments lend themselves to those two-hour travel times to go but miles taking forever to get somewhere – this is not a complaint; it is a fortunate happenstance we imbibe at all too often. If we were to stop nowhere else this afternoon, it would be here at our beach.

Crashing waves and blowing spray on a beach in Big Sur, California

A small amount of sun graced our presence with a poke through clouds here and there. It sparkled on water and waves, borrowing some of the glitter from the stars far overhead. The waves are roaring as they typically do on this beach. On previous visits, we have seen that the ocean churns so ferociously here that the sand levels rise and fall, changing the character of the beach with dramatic effect.

Late afternoon on the Big Sur coast in California

The walk from the roadside to the beach, as seen in the two photos above, is one of the more dramatic views up the coast; it never fails to impress us. Directly in front of us while on the beach, the waves tower and stack up to roll in with one after the other in rapid succession. And then to the south, as seen right here, the sun lights the beach and rocks with golden repose. We melt into this landscape every time, making us one with our beach.

A bit of sun and blue sky on an otherwise rainy day on the Big Sur coast in California

We now must race against the setting sun to return to our perch, as we don’t want to find ourselves squatting in some random nest on an unfamiliar branch. We arrive in the nick of time to the last embers of available light. The wind is howling here near Cape San Martin; a quick check of our nest and the tent inside assures us that nothing has blown away yet. Time for dinner, and a wonderful one at that. A bread basket and dipping oil were brought with glasses of water from their own well. The olive oil was infused with herbs grown right here at Treebones garden plot including lemon thyme, sweet marjoram, dill, parsley, chives, and tarragon. Next up was the homemade butternut squash soup with roasted pumpkin seeds, followed by a beet salad with orange wedges and mixed greens; both the beets and greens were grown right here in the garden. Caroline opted for the butternut squash ravioli with sage sauce and, for me, the pot roast with roasted winter veggies atop blue cheese potatoes au gratin – both meals were the perfect comfort foods for a chilly winter night.

A dip in the jacuzzi with the wind and cold rain beating at our faces was on order before returning to the fire-warmed dining room for a shared dessert of sticky date cake with caramel drizzle and a homemade hot chocolate chai. By 9:00 p.m., the wind still rips at the trees outside; we will try to fall asleep in a flapping wind tunnel and dream of the best New Year’s.

Seeya 2010

California coast north of Santa Barbara

A perfect last day of the year will lead us into a perfect tomorrow. A beautiful sky over a gorgeous landscape was the road we traveled on our way up the central California coast. Stops took us to beaches, cliffside overhangs offering panoramas of the Pacific, and tide pools where plenty of rocks and marine life are found. Should you find yourself meandering along at fifteen miles per hour where the posted speed is thirty-five, forty-five, and sometimes fifty-five, but you are occupied to near distraction craning your neck and pulling over every five hundred feet for a closer look, well then you must be in one of a few places; Hawaii, Yellowstone, or the Pacific Coast Highway. For Caroline and me this New Year’s weekend, it was the latter, although we have plenty of rubbernecking experience in the other locations, too. Treebones Resort is the destination we are aiming to take up our perch for welcoming in 2011 later today.

On the beach near San Simeon, California

From Santa Barbara, we got underway on Highway 101 north towards San Luis Obispo and then Morro Bay, where we would hug the coast for the rest of our long weekend. The next sixty miles will take something close to forever to traverse; how is anyone supposed to drive this road and not want to stop everywhere to look at everything?

Flock of seagulls in California

We’ve seen this section of the coast countless times by now. Still, it holds endless fascination. We pass through the beautiful little village of Cambria, where we’ll live in some future reincarnated life, but keep driving to make our check-in with Treebones before 4:00 pm. We spot great-view number who-knows-which and decide this must be our next stop as memory can’t be sure if we have actually been to this particular 1000-foot stretch of coast before. Seems familiar but I don’t recognize any of these birds.

Piedras Blancas lighthouse in California

Just the other side of San Simeon, we miss taking the tour of Hearst Castle yet again, but that’s fine with us because we spot some Elephant Seals on a beach where we hadn’t seen them before, anyway; we can guess with this being a holiday weekend there will be hundreds of people crowding the boardwalk at the designated observation point. From this beach, we have a fantastic view of the Piedras Blancas lighthouse and know we are nearing the now-closed old blue-and-white motel we spent New Year’s Eve at back in 2002 – fond memories indeed.

Elephant Seal near Piedras Blancas, California

At the mothballed, crumbling motel, we walk over the property remembering the first time we stopped here with Caroline’s mother during Jutta’s first visit to America back in 1997. In the gift shop, someone asked if we had stopped at the beach about a mile or two behind us and checked out the Elephant Seals; we had not. Back then, there was no boardwalk and fenced area, which in turn let us approach probably too close for what was safe but we still tried to be calm and unobtrusive. Today, we have the opportunity to be respectful, quiet, and alone with a large male who is napping on the beach we are visiting.

California coast north of Piedras Blancas

The further north we travel, the more the weather tells us to be prepared. We knew when leaving Arizona that we were facing a good chance of having it rain on us, but we weren’t going to stay home and lose the money we paid in advance for our “room.”

The Nest at Treebones Resort in Big Sur, California

A giant bird’s nest with a commanding view of the ocean would be how a real estate listing might start for where we are staying. But it’s not for sale, although it is available to rent for a night or two. The folks at Treebones in the far south of Big Sur have elevated the idea of roughing it into a luxury yurt resort. Well, yurts are mighty fine. We have stayed in more than one on many an occasion in Oregon’s state parks, but we have never, and I doubt you have either, climbed a ladder, passing through a circular entrance to enter a human nest. If birds stood six feet tall and had sixteen-foot wingspans, maybe this would be the kind of place they would weave and call home, minus the futon.

Inside The Nest at Treebones Resort in Big Sur, California

A night in Kokopelli’s Cave, another in a Hogan at Monument Valley, the house Herman Melville stayed at in New Bedford, camping next to the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon, and now a bird nest built for people next to the Pacific, this surely fits in as one of the more unique lodgings we have found ourselves in. Hey, Cedar Creek Treehouse near Mt. Rainier, we have you in our focus.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of The Nest at Treebones Resort in Big Sur, California

Yes, we tweeted and chirped upon our arrival at the nest; no, we didn’t soil it. I failed to convince my ladybird to try the morsel I wanted to regurgitate for her. After getting comfy up here, we found it difficult to leave the nest, pathetic for two people in their forties, although not totally out of the ordinary during these difficult economic times.

The view from inside The Nest at Treebones Resort in Big Sur, California

This was our view from the portal of the nest to the bigger world outside. I would guess that some of you might understand why Treebones Resort will now be on our permanent list of places we must return to frequently. I’m thinking April would be nice, or after the summer fog in the early fall.

Sea urchin shell found on the beach in Big Sur, California

After setting up our tent inside the nest, as the forecast called for a ten percent chance of rain, we went up the road to Willow Creek to scour some tide pools and examine rocks and waves. We crawled over boulders to the water’s edge and took a good long time to linger, searching for whatever might catch our eye. Small crabs crawled about, anemones withered where the water level had exposed them, and not a single starfish was to be seen, although Caroline scored a sea urchin shell.

Surfer riding a wave in Big Sur, California

Two guys also determined to spend the last day of the year doing something rather than sitting at home were sealed up tight in their wetsuits before paddling out for some surfing. The waves seemed a bit small to us for good surfing, but luck was with these intrepid dudes who, once in a while, had a good swell pop-up for both of them to get a few good rides in.

Creek running into the Pacific ocean near Big Sur, California

Leaving this first signed vista point north of Gorda, the way back to the car took us past a small creek flowing into the ocean. With the storms of late, we would notice that all the creeks and waterfalls along the coast were running with a goodly amount of runoff. While the weather wasn’t cooperating with snapping off any magnificent dramatically lit landscapes, it was possible to grab a few intimate shots that didn’t rely on direct sunlight or sweeping skies.

Rock side in Pacific Valley near Big Sur, California

Then, it was time to fly up the coast for an overlook of Pacific Valley. Over the fence, we ventured down a trail through a thicket to a cliffside to enjoy the late-day views. This was one of those rare spots we had never stopped at before. With little roadside parking, it would be an easy location to drive right by. Lucky for us, we opted to make this pullout or final roadside stop for the day.

Rocks and ocean in Pacific Valley near Big Sur, California

The sky was dull, cold, and gray but with a character and charm that kept us happy to have given our time to explore this outcropping. As beautiful as it is here, I may never understand why we aren’t sharing this trail with thousands of others, but for whatever reason it is, I suppose we can thank our lucky stars that the majority of humanity is watching the New Year happen on television. This fine rock and ocean view is all the TV I need.

Sea birds sitting cliffside in Pacific Valley near Big Sur, California

Below us, with their backs to the wind on a giant sheltering rock, a couple of dozen birds have taken up a roost on some near-vertical rock ledges, defying our idea of just how they may be glued to such a precarious perch. We scan the horizon as we have all day for those migrating whales of winter but spot not a one, and try as we might this weekend, not a sign of them will be found.

Looking south in Pacific Valley near Big Sur, California

Like many birds, we weren’t about to be caught flying about after dark and pointed our beaks in the direction of our nest. Jacuzzi, pool, jacuzzi, pool, jacuzzi, pool, and then a final warming dip in the jacuzzi before heading back to our perch high above the ocean for some stargazing. Dinner came late, this being New Year’s Eve, no need to rush things when trying to stay up late after a long day of fun. Treebones Resort was having a small party for us guests and anyone else who wanted to join the festivities in their restaurant at the center of the yurt village. On the buffet menu, we were offered all-you-can-eat sushi, frog legs, filet mignon sliders, cheese plate, bruschetta, tapenade, blackberries, raspberries, dried apricots, and a dessert of either apple or pecan pie. We spent the hours before the old year turned over to the new one near the fireplace, listening to Darren Delmore sing, play guitar, and his harmonica.

Not this nor any other of these travels, hobbies, concerts, festivals, good meals, or the many opportunities we enjoy are taken for granted. We pinch ourselves at the good fortune of it all and are grateful that we have the wherewithal to follow through and do what we have planned to do. There is no sense of entitlement, and so often, we feel a tad out of place, standing in awe that we have ended up where we are. But that’s ok, we’d rather be excited, thrilled, and tickled that each new adventure and journey is like the first of everything all wrapped up in one. As midnight approached, a Happy New Year and Welcome to 2011 cheer went up with a toast of champagne and a kiss shared between Caroline and me.

Dry Tortugas Day 2

Sunrise on Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

It was still dark out around 5:30 when we awoke. In only a few minutes, the first blue-gray twilight would begin to illuminate the morning sky. A thick cloud cover gave doubt whether we would see the sunrise at all, but as the sky filled with a deep red and orange glow, we were glued to the dock, watching the day come into being. As the light spread across the calm, warm waters of the Gulf, an occasional fish would break the surface, leaping for something unseen by us. Mesmerized, we sat there while the world turned from darkness to beauty.

Sunrise on Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

An hour later and still, we sit dockside, gazing eastward at the oncoming day. The fishermen who also spent the evening on the Dry Tortugas have begun to stir and will soon be gone.

Sunrise on Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Fortunately for us, the cloud cover was to break up after hanging around the early part of the day to lend dramatic flair to the morning sky and reflective ocean waters. With the dawn comes the idea we could easily have spent days here on this little island paradise.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

By 9:00 a.m., the sun had pushed the clouds to the side, and it was time to get in the water. This is where we would stay until we turned to prunes or got too cold. Our first venture into the sea was in front of our now packed-up campsite on the western shore. Along the wall of the moat, there are more fish here today than yesterday. The waters are also calmer, as is the wind, so visibility is greater, too, making the first swim of the day that much better. Slowly, we float along, watching fish watching us.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Well, float along and avoid the jellyfish.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

The aptly named Needlefish.

John Wise on Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

What is it about this photo that is so unflattering? Is the snorkel in my mouth, the squinty eyes, or that I might be confused with a sea monster?

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Come here, Mr. Pelican, I have a little snacky for you! While we did get a photo of a pelican entering the water, it was a bit too abstract and blurry to share, so instead, I present you this guy looking at the strange thing emerging from the depths to take its photo.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Cold and pruney, it was time to warm up with a walk in the sun atop Fort Jefferson for one more view of the azure waters surrounding us.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

What an incredibly small island this really is! We know it’s only 16 acres, but if you look at a satellite image, you’ll better appreciate just how small. You’ll also see why the taller Loggerhead Lighthouse was built, as the water out here is very shallow.

Owl on Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Here we are 70 miles out to sea, and I would have thought it was strange to see an owl this far away from the mainland, but with crabs and maybe some fish in the shallower waters along with rodents and insects, it’s finding enough to keep it healthy. Could it possibly have a mate out here?

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

We try to ignore the time as it won’t be long before a boat arrives that will take us away. Until then, we will bask and try to imagine our eventual return when maybe we could spend three or four days and nights out here. It’s not long before we are both warm and dry, conditions that demand we return to the water.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Caroline takes charge of the camera, giving me the opportunity to stop taking photo after photo and freeing my hands to swim with only my sense of awe working. While she swims further out along the wall, looking for bigger fish to photograph, I meander, spending many a minute studying conch, urchins, and corals. The sun glimmers on the white sands of the ocean floor, and light dances, darts, and flashes on the sides of fish turning as though this were a performance for the big floating stranger looking to be dazzled with the show of nature.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

Our next snorkel venture had us back on the western shore, except this time, Caroline wanted to try going as far as she could around Fort Jefferson. She made it halfway before the winds picked up again, and the choppy water towards the north side of Garden Key had her turning around. Out here on the far side of the moat, the corals are larger, the fish more abundant; we had even seen a leopard shark here earlier in the day on a walk around the moat wall. Sadly, Caroline didn’t see the shark while in the water, but she did get to swim up to a pufferfish. But that elusive pufferfish didn’t stick around for many photos, and the ones Caroline took were too blurry to share here.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key at the Dry Tortugas National Park

But she really made a serious effort to follow this hogfish around and so I present you with the best of the bunch. From the moat wall, we made the second trip of the day over to the old pilings towards the south of the island. These pilings were once part of a dock that had been used for loading coal over one hundred years ago, but today are a coral sanctuary and a favorite habitat for fish – pelicans too; we watched from below as pelicans dove in the water looking for a quick bite.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Gulf of Mexico in Florida

The time we traded to be on Garden Key here at the Dry Tortugas National Park was over too soon. Our memories will be tied to those blue waters and blue skies, wrapping this tiny 16-acre (6.5 hectares) island in a beauty these pictures poorly represent. For a little bit more than 24 hours, life was near perfect.

Gulf of Mexico in Florida

Wait a minute, is that the S.S. Minnow? I tried yelling over to get Gilligan’s attention but I don’t think he could hear me.

Gulf of Mexico in Florida

As the sun drew low in the sky, we would soon approach Key West. Landing, it was as though we were transported into New York City with thick crowds, cars, noise, and buildings all around us. Truth is that Key West itself is a small town with its own laid-back style, but coming from the solitude of that island, there was a moment when even this felt like a metropolis. I can only wonder how difficult it is for those who spend weeks out there to readjust to “normal” life.

Dry Tortugas

Caroline Elizabeth Wise in Key West, Florida

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (partly) written years after the experience was had. While there were a few paragraphs posted way back then with a small number of photos, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

After a comfy sleep and an early morning alarm at the Banana Bay Resort in Key West, we were quick to get ready for a speedy exit out the door for breakfast to get our day underway. Denny’s was about our only option, and lucky for us the one and only Starbucks down here in Key West opens at 6:30. For those of you who don’t know, Elizabeth is Caroline’s middle name.

Check-in is at 7:00 with Sunny Days for our Fast Cat transport out to the Dry Tortugas National Park. Don’t worry, tourists desiring a day trip to the island, the normal line-up is 8:00 while this earlier time is for campers.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key is the main attraction here in the Dry Tortugas National Park. This remote island is a mere 16 acres in size. As we approached, the fort appeared to sit right on the water.

A low wall rings this all-brick structure, building a moat along its six sides. Construction of the fort began in 1846, but with its remoteness, lack of fresh water, and frequent hurricanes, the fort was only half-finished by 1860. The buildings were turned into a prison until the mid-1870s, and later, the place served as a refueling station until it fell out of use for the most part.

While the majority of visitors were on a tour of the main building, Caroline and I set up our tent at camping site number 5 with an incredible western view of the ocean, perfect for watching the sunset.

After a slow, quiet walk around the sea wall, it was nearly lunchtime aboard the catamaran that brought us out here. Many of the seventy or so other passengers now went snorkeling while Caroline and I had the fort to ourselves.

The welcoming committee.

This is the point in my updated post where the writing jumps forward to 2022; there are more original notes below that were posted in 2009, but first, an update about our good fortune to have been here in 2009. We arrived at the Dry Tortugas a year before Instagram launched and started its march towards ruining many beautiful places on earth, and apparently, the Dry Tortugas is one of those places that has found a kind of popularity that neither Caroline nor I would enjoy today. You see, if you want to camp on this island today, you’ll be lucky to find a reservation a year out. That means that every single day of the year, every campsite is taken.

Below I write about a group site taken by fishermen while we were here; they arrived with their own boat a day before us and were out on the sea until just after we tucked into our tent, so it was like they weren’t even here. The other small group I referenced was just a few people at one of the other sites. We felt really alone out here, and I think that sense might be gone now.

If there were to be a regret, it might be that we didn’t understand how much we enjoyed kayaking and that we would have benefited from having a couple of them with us, along with another night out here so we could have paddled over to Loggerhead Key to visit the lighthouse and simply indulge in more of the solitude we experienced in such a remote place.

A nearby bird sanctuary was off-limits to visitors. When I wrote this previous sentence in 2009, I said, “…is off-limits,” which I now changed to was off-limits as the channel between Garden Key, where we are, and Bush Key across the way, which is currently connected.

What a scary place this would have been to be stationed when tropical storms or hurricanes whipped through the area 100 years ago, but today, it’s blue skies and calm ocean for as far as the eye can see.

While almost impossible to see, to the left on the horizon is the Loggerhead Lighthouse.

Storm damage is taking its toll, and while there are signs that some things are being repaired, it’s easy to get the idea that others are being allowed to continue falling into decay.

It’s obvious that a single day will never be enough to explore everything here.

By the way, this is the largest brick structure in our hemisphere and is constructed from more than 16 million bricks.

This is not a deserted island either as there are at least a few people that live here who work for the National Park Service. Had there been a way to see how the old brick rooms were being used as apartments, we would have jumped at the chance; the quiet inside of them at night must be astonishing.

This old lighthouse predates the fort and was erected here back in 1825, while construction of the fort began in 1846. To let you in on a secret, we might have been so lucky to get a tour on the low-down of this old lighthouse later in the evening but I won’t swear to that as they are not allowed, just saying.

It wasn’t long before 2:30 p.m. rolled around, and the day visitors were leaving the island. There was a small group of campers who set up near us while the group campground had a few tents already set up but the fishermen who were staying in those were out for a day of fishing.

With no one else in sight, we grabbed our snorkel gear and jumped into the warm Gulf of Mexico waters.

We had the clear waters of the Dry Tortugas all to ourselves. Over corals and past jellyfish, we floated along the perimeter wall inspecting conch, sea urchins, parrot fish, and dozens of other fish varieties.

Out of the water and over to North Swim Beach we slip into the water and are surprised, overwhelmed, and thrilled to quickly find ourselves swimming through a school of thousands of fish. The small fish would swim around us, dart to and fro as they avoided other larger fish that may have been intent on feasting on these little guys. We could have stayed here all day watching the flashes of silver glistening in the reflected light of the sun shining down on the sea. Matter of fact, this is nearly just what we did and it was almost 5:00 before we exited our underwater wonderland.

After more than two hours of snorkeling, we needed a break and thought it was a good time to prepare dinner for our sunset feast – on peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. As we would only be on the island one night, we had opted for simplicity in bringing our small tent, one sleeping bag that we opened and both slept on, along with one cotton blanket for keeping warm. With lows in the mid-70s (24c), I didn’t think we’d be chilly.

Our food choice was made just the night before at a local grocery after finding inspiration in a jar of Goobers PB & J – this stuff is a mix of peanut butter and jelly all in one jar; check it out here. We also bought some bananas to add to the sandwiches and to enjoy with our breakfast of Clif Bars the next morning.

The late day brought in a good cover of clouds, none of them threatening poor weather. From time to time, the sun would poke through, casting a beautiful golden light upon the calm ocean. At other times, the sun would spread distinct rays across the horizon as we sat in the sand, oohing and ahhing at how gorgeous all of this was. The view is from campsite #5.

Be careful where you walk at night as others much smaller than you might be out for a stroll too. We probably watched this little guy for a good half-hour; what an unbelievable encounter with wildlife today.

Not to forget to tell you of the stars we saw this evening, but look close, that’s the Milky Way over on the left. I’d love to share more about the night sky out here in the middle of the Gulf, but that would take another complete blog entry.

The Keys

Caroline Wise standing in the Atlantic ocean off Islamorada Key in south Florida

The day is beautiful – over here on the leeward side of the Florida Keys. On the windward side, the wind is blustery, and the bay is choppy. Over here on the Atlantic side, the ocean waters are still a little murky from the tropical storm that churned the seas the previous week, but they are warm and inviting.

Islamorada Key in south Florida

The original plan was to pick up two kayaks at 8:00 this morning, but the winds changed that. Due to our inexperience regarding the wind, the behavior of the ocean, and the fact Caroline nor I had ever been on a kayak, we opted to put off kayaking and instead drove south, stopping at Long Key State Park, where an attendant invited us to check out a lake in the park to see if we’d be comfortable canoeing its waters, kayaks were unavailable due to the high winds, and canoeing wasn’t what we were interested in so we continued south to Marathon Key.

Caroline Wise standing in the Atlantic ocean off Islamorada Key in south Florida

At the visitor center, the friendly attendant told us of a nice beach off Coco Plum Drive, and off we went to Coco Plum Beach. We hadn’t picked up our snorkel gear yet, so all we could really do was walk along the shallow beach and view the wildlife.

Islamorada Key in south Florida

A few fish darted about, and a couple of stingrays sped over the sandy bottom.

Islamorada Key in south Florida

Even an incredibly poisonous Man-o-war jellyfish floated by. Then we noticed the wind was easing and decided to return north to Islamorada and check out the kayaks.

Dot at A1A Watersports hooked us up with two sit-on-top kayaks, reassured us how easy this was going to be, showed us where (and how) to put in, gave us two life jackets, and told us she’d watch from the shore and rescue us if we appeared in danger. And so it was that we, for the first time in our lives, paddled off into the deep ocean waters of the great Atlantic.

John Wise kayaking on the Atlantic Ocean in Florida

Below us, somewhere down, there was terra firma, but up here were the two of us bobbing on slivers of plastic, praying not to roll over to be consumed by Triton.

Caroline Wise kayaking on the Atlantic Ocean in Florida

Maybe you hadn’t noticed how tight my jaw was in the photo above, just as well as it wouldn’t have been flattering while Caroline here is obviously having the time of her life.

Sadly, my anxiety might have been for nothing as Dot later told us we could have stood up at any time as the water was maybe hip-deep where we were paddling. Why couldn’t she share that with me beforehand? While Caroline did fine and took to kayaking without a care, it was I who feared going Poseidon Adventure, losing orientation, and falling victim to some freak drowning accident in ankle-deep water. After an hour, I may not have felt like an expert, but this was a great experience that I was looking forward to repeating the next day.

Next up is the jet ski. A1A was our tour guide for this, too. Heidi, the volunteer fireman, was to take us out for our first ride on a jet ski. Like Dot, she assured us we’d have fun and not to worry, just do as I say, go out on the ocean over there and drive this around, and in ten minutes, she’d join us. Here I am, needing to be the brave man before my wife, with my fear of deep water pressing me to bow out, but at the same time needing to man up. Little to do but grin and bear it, and off we went with a light touch on the throttle as I tried to warm up to speed over the ocean on this slightly bigger sliver of plastic powered by a menacingly fast engine. Heidi was fantastic in taking her time getting us up to speed. Our first stop was a reef where there was a chance we would snorkel, but the visibility was poor, so we ditched that and headed over to a sand bar. Off the jet ski, we stood hip-deep in the ocean, surrounded by sharks – I had to sacrifice Caroline to seek the mercy of Neptune.

John Wise and Caroline Wise on the Atlantic Ocean in Florida

Damn, those old waterproof single-use cameras were horrible quality; you should see the action shots Heidi took of the fuzzy blurs on the sea.

John Wise on the Atlantic Ocean in Florida

The first part of the tour took us slowly through a mangrove tunnel and near a pelican rookery getting me used to handling the jet ski before she took us out on the open sea and built up my confidence to go fast, really fast.

Caroline Wise on the Atlantic Ocean in Florida

Now comfortable with how this ocean rocket performed, Heidi took us on a slalom run that, at times, saw us speeding over the surface, slicing the water at over 50 miles per hour. We stopped for a break well away from the shore in what I would have thought was deep water, but instead, we were able to step off the jet ski and stand in the beautifully warm waters of southern Florida.

The face that says, “I’ve had another incredible day doing amazing things I don’t believe I thought I’d ever do.”

One of those rare photos of me that Caroline took and that I really do like.

A bit cold and totally wet it was time to check in the Harbor Lights Motel to put on dry clothes and have some dinner.

In The Crown

It was just five months ago that we were last here, 2,400 miles from home, looking at the exact same view, except that we were traveling with my mother-in-law, Jutta Engelhardt. She’d never been to New York City, and neither Caroline nor I had been to the Statue of Liberty. Back on the 23rd of May, we spent a good amount of time visiting Ellis Island before continuing to Liberty Island, where the Lady stands. We couldn’t visit the statue’s interior then as we didn’t have reservations, and the crown was still closed as it had been for ten years.

But we learned on that day the crown would be reopening for a short period starting on July 4th, so we made plans. So, this is the primary reason we’ve been back here in the northeastern United States on this vacation.

Having recently had a great tour of Ellis Island, we don’t feel any need to spend any more time there on this visit.

This, though, is where the ferry to Liberty Island departs, and so for a few minutes, we were once again on this small bit of land in New York Harbor.

That is the look of, “Oh my god, we have the special wristbands that will actually allow us to visit the Crown of the Statue of Liberty!” This is an incredible honor, and we are fortunate beyond belief as only about 500 people a day on the best of days are granted permission to make their way to the top of the Statue of Liberty.

While I have a profound sense of reverence for this statue and what it represents, I am also cursed with an inappropriate sense of irreverence that forces me to follow some unorthodox ideas, such as recognizing that we’ll effectively be crawling up Lady Liberty’s backside.

This is the internally lit torch held by the statue for decades. The amber panes of glass and interior lights were early design changes. Then, between 1984 and 1986, when the Statue of Liberty went through a thorough restoration, it was decided to create a new flame that conformed to the original design of Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, and so a proper 24-karat gold-plated flame was placed in her hand.

That’s an exact replica of Lady Liberty’s foot in case you ever wanted to compare your head size to one of her toenails.

The elevator at the base of the pedestal was not functioning today, so first, we had to ascend 101 feet of stairs before embarking on the final climb up the narrow spiral staircase that took us 22 stories above the pedestal into Lady Liberty’s crown.

What an amazing idea to be able to visit the interior of a statue and such an iconic one at that. How could any of us be this lucky?

We are not tumors. We are simply visitors in the Statue of Liberty’s head, specifically in the crown. Standing up here, even knocking my head into the steel supports more than once, was just as thrilling as visiting the White House back in May.

The crown tour opened this past July 4th after being closed for nearly ten years. Tickets were not easy to come by when we ordered back in late June, and after two more years, the statue will once again shut down to visitors as renovations are planned to improve visitors’ ability to visit the crown.

Some anonymous person, back in 1886, was looking out at the Brooklyn Bridge, which had only been open three years by that time. There were no buildings taller than the Trinity Church standing tall at 281 feet (85 meters) and it’s still out there. It would be another 45 years before the Empire State Building at 1,250 feet (381 meters) would really start to redefine the New York skyline.

For us tourists, this might be the rarest of views, one in which we are here nearly alone aside from the park ranger who collected our wristbands, and I’m sure must keep watch over those who might feel compelled to carve something into this national treasure.

One final look over at the city and we headed for the exit.

One side is for coming up; the other is for going down while the ranger does their best to perch themself out of the way on the structural frame of the statue. Look in the upper right of this photo, and you can spy the telltale green pants of the National Park ranger. The reason for that is the platform for visitors is rather small here in the crown, which is also why only about 500 people a day get to share the view.

In all, we’ll have climbed about 500 steps to cover both directions. As we are leaving, it is not that we really wanted to go, but others arrived, and I’m certain that they too want to indulge to the best of their ability as space allows them to capture the memories that they, too, at one time in their lives had visited the crown of the Statue of Liberty.

On our descent, we stopped to look at the inside of the Statue of Liberty’s giant nose, and from how polished the copper is, we weren’t the first to reach out and touch this part of history. For a brief moment, I felt like a really big booger.

We arrived early this morning, bypassing Ellis Island, as we knew that we’d like to be the first up today, and that’s just what we were offered. Now, with that done, we are visiting the pedestal to check out the views from up here. While it’s difficult to see in this high-contrast image with the ferry in silhouette, there may be a million people on that thing or whatever the carrying capacity of that craft is.

Out of view, next to the left foot of this monument, is a segment of broken chains. In one of the early designs of this statue, she was holding in her left hand the broken shackle that represented the end of slavery in the United States. A terra-cotta model of that version of the statue still exists at the Museum of the City of New York. Ultimately, Lady Liberty would be holding a tablet with the date of July 4th, 1776, when the Declaration of Independence was ratified, but that wasn’t the original idea, and a small part of the broken shackles was able to remain.

While Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi was the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty, it was born from an idea by Edouard de Laboulaye. His original idea appears to have been to create a monument to liberty following the end of the Civil War (it should be noted that he was an abolitionist). However, this was deemed “too divisive,” and in keeping with America’s tendency of hiding truths, this connection to the end of slavery and the torch representing the enlightenment from that dark time didn’t fit the narrative of welcoming immigrants, and it was scrubbed from history until 2011 when the L.A. Progressive featured a story about the chains at Lady Liberty’s feet.

Would a statue celebrating the end of slavery in America have been allowed such a prominent place in our lore had the intolerant underbelly of hate known the truth? She was meant to be a beacon for Americans of African descent, yet here I am in 2022 writing this, and had no idea until this very day as I was researching various aspects of her history. While this is shameful, I’m happy that this journey into the United States has brought me back around and is still teaching me things.

I zoomed into this photo, and sure enough, you can see the chains over her left foot.

This is St. Paul’s Chapel, which has been standing here since 1766. Why I didn’t photograph the front of this historic building of worship is a mystery, or maybe it was due to the gravestones and trees that in some way removed it from the bustle of the metropolis surrounding it.

Washington once prayed here.

Federal Hall National Memorial is the site where America recognizes its first seat of government as the United States took up residence. For a short time, New York City was the nation’s capital, and the old City Hall that stood here was where George Washington was sworn in. That old building was razed in 1812, and this beauty was built. It, too, was considered for the wrecking ball, but in 1939, it was saved, and shortly thereafter, it became the memorial it is today.

Back when George Washington was inaugurated in this general vicinity, New York City only existed in this part of lower Manhattan. As for this statue looking out at Wall Street, it was made by John Quincy Adams Ward (no relation to the 6th U.S. President with a similar name), who also sculpted one of the most important abolitionist sculptures called the Freedman.

The Manhattan Municipal Building stands on one of the edges where New York City’s governance is now performed. Out of sight is the nearby City Hall that I should have photographed too; it’s the one that replaced the old building over at Wall Street.

This is the Thurgood Marshall United States Courthouse.

In the background is the Daniel Patrick Moynihan United States Courthouse, where the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York operates. Out front is the New York State Supreme Court Building.

Look across the NYC skyline, and you’ll notice a lot of these old wooden tanks that seem to be relics of the past but are not. They are still in use to this day. It turns out that with so many buildings over seven stories tall, the pressure required to deliver so much water is a Herculean task, and this is where the water tanks come in. Using pumps in the basements of these buildings, water is pumped into the tank and then gravity-fed into the apartments and businesses below. By the way, there’s something about the nature of the wood structure that doesn’t allow the water to freeze in the winter.

Can you guess the area of the city we are passing through?

Behind us is the Manhattan Bridge.

And just to our right from the photo above this one is the Mahayana Buddhist Temple where this photo, which wasn’t allowed to be taken, somehow ended up in my camera in some inexplicable way. Caroline offered a dollar donation for a fortune scroll at the entry, but it was foreboding, telling her not to get too attached to her belongings; this was certainly not a Chinese fortune cookie kind of thing. Of course, she had to offer another dollar, but the Buddhists apparently do not think getting one’s hopes up for great fortune just around the corner is what should be told to strangers.

There’s so much to New York City we’ve never experienced, and yet here we are in Little Italy again.

Well, on previous visits, we didn’t take in Café Ferrara, and this experience should rank high on anyone’s visit to the Big Apple…topped with strawberries, powdered sugar, and a drizzle of chocolate.

There’s magic in simply walking through this city…

…and then finding something this special because where else might one see chicken dick splattered with blood behind police tape?

Here’s a funny bit of previously unknown information for my readers: you see on this Nirvana “Bleach” poster and the line about the “Live show from 1990.” Well, that was supposed to be a live show from November 1989 that Caroline and I filmed in Hanau, Germany, but the negotiations of those trying to acquire the videos from us were so bungled on their side that we were never going to come to an amicable deal and so I refused to consider their proposal. This means that our footage, the oldest two-camera footage of Nirvana pre-fame that was shot directly in front of the stage, remains unseen.

We are at the 9th Street Path Station on our way back to New Jersey to grab the rental car from our hotel, and though it’s not the middle of the night, we have somewhere we need to be.

Okay, ready to get going after a moment or two of watching the sunset over New York City.

The seagull, too, seemed to be mesmerized.

And with this last glistening golden shot, I call it quits on this post. Tomorrow will welcome another adventure.