Wandering the Old West with Jutta – Day 2

Hackberry General Store in Hackberry, Arizona on Old Route 66

As I explained in yesterday’s post regarding this wander into the Old West, these images and memories did not find their way to being published until August 8th, 2022. Forgive me if they are sparse on details, but we had no notes or itinerary in the archive to spur our thoughts.

While I’ve shared a dozen of the best photos from this day, there were enough details in some of the other images to extract locations. Maintaining our exploration of Route 66, our first stop was here at the Hackberry General Store in Hackberry, Arizona.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Hackberry General Store in Hackberry, Arizona on Old Route 66

The place was still closed as we were simply too early for normal human beings to venture down the road, which is okay with us as then the whole world is ours alone. As we walked around the place, Jutta spotted this sticker from Magdeburg, Germany, which is the city in which she was born back on July 25, 1935. This means my mother-in-law was nearly 74 years old during this visit; gotta admire her stamina.

Old Route 66 between Hackberry and Truxton, Arizona

Now that we got the fact that my mother-in-law, who was older than stones, had that connection to home, we got back to wandering the dusty trail.

Frontier Motel at 16118 E Hwy 66 in Truxton, Arizona near Peach Springs

Following the theme that the old motels we once entertained staying at close before we get to them, the Frontier Motel in Truxton, Arizona, near Peach Springs, is now long out of business.

Indian Road 18 between Peach Springs and Havasu Falls, Arizona

Blink, and you might miss Indian Route 18 in the direction of Supai.

Indian Road 18 between Peach Springs and Havasu Falls, Arizona

No, I did not photograph these whispy clouds just so I could rainbow colorize them in Photoshop at some point in the future; this is just what we saw.

Trail to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Nation in Arizona

We are approaching the parking lot for the trailhead to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Reservation.

Trail to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Nation in Arizona

Our objective is not to take a mid-day 10-mile hike to the falls; nope, we are just out here for the views.

Caroline Wise on the Trail to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Nation in Arizona

Okay, just a little bit of trail, as in maybe a couple of hundred feet, but that’s it.

Old Route 66 halfway between Peach Springs and Seligman, Arizona

And then back the way we came, except now we travel with an appetite.

Delgadillo's Snow Cap in Seligman, Arizona on Old Route 66

There’s so much more to visiting Delgadillo’s Snow Cap in Seligman, Arizona than random smiley face potato things in your french fries, but capturing the antics of the staff is a difficult one. Back in 2002, on a camping trip next to the Colorado River, Caroline and I had our first encounter with the owner, Juan Delgadillo, and consider ourselves lucky to have met this charismatic man who passed away two years after that visit.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Delgadillo's Snow Cap in Seligman, Arizona on Old Route 66

And that concludes our brief wandering around the Old West.

Wandering the Old West with Jutta – Day 1

Burro Jim Motel in Aguila, Arizona

This is another one of those blog posts that might have never been if it weren’t for my desire to build a comprehensive index of all of our travels. For more than a few years, I’ve been returning to old directories of photos and teasing out the exact days we were away from Phoenix. On more than a few occasions I find trips of which not a word or photo was ever shared. While on a lot of old posts, there were a minimum of images due to bandwidth issues at the time; I’m flummoxed how some trips never found their way up here. So here August 8th, 2022, I’ve brought together the best photos from this quick two-day getaway, and now I have to craft something or other to say because there’s nothing.

First up is an easy one; you see, back in 2001, Caroline and I passed right through here. On that day, this sign appeared to still be perfect, but here on the day I’m writing this in 2022, the Burro Jim Motel in Aguila, Arizona, is dead and gone. Click here to visit that trip from 2001.

Sunset Motel in Wenden, Arizona

The Sunset Motel in Wenden is defunct, too, though it probably was so even back in 2009. Knowing that we were traveling from Phoenix to Aguila and then Wenden allowed me to start determining the direction of our trip, and that made it a bit easier to put things back together.

Old horse tie-up and ruin in Salome, Arizona

I’ve looked for information about this old stone building with horse tie-ups still out front here in Salome but have never found anything.

Hope, Arizona

You enter Hope and just as quickly are leaving Hope behind.

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona, was already fading fast here in 2009, but somewhere between then and 2022, it was removed from the map.

Old Brayton Ghost Town & Museum near Bouse, Arizona

This old stuff makes me curious about driving out this route once again and seeing how things have changed in the intervening years. Heck, for all I know, I’ll stumble upon another directory of photos featuring this exact trek.

Near Parker, Arizona

That’s the Colorado River with California on the left and Arizona on the right. We are traveling north on State Route 95.

Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge near Parker, Arizona

This is the Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge, and in the over 25 years we’ve lived in Arizona, we have yet to hike its short trails; this must be fixed.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline near Parker, Arizona on Knitting in Public Day

Caroline posing while holding her knitting with Jutta can only mean one thing: it’s World Wide Knit in Public Day.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise on old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

Okay, Caroline, we get it; you are knitting in public. Yeah, but when has anyone else ever knitted in public on Historic Route 66?

Old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

When you travel the broad expanse of Interstate 40, you can only wonder why the original highway planners of Route 66 brought the road through areas such as this. Talk about being off the beaten path.

Old Route 66 a.k.a. Oatman Highway in Arizona

I would have bet $100 there was NO chance we’d be seeing burros on this road.

Caroline Wise in Oatman, Arizona

And then all of a sudden, you have two of them jamming their heads into your car, pleading that we take them with us or feed them. It’s probably the latter, as who has ever seen a burro in the backseat of a car?

Donkey's in Oatman, Arizona

Good thing I didn’t bet $100 per burro.

Donkey's in Oatman, Arizona

Nothing like a braying burro to get others to laugh with them.

Oatman, Arizona

The sign, aside from telling us about gold mining in the area, warns visitors to avoid the burros as they are wild and will bite and kick. Later, we also found out that local shops sell carrots to tourists as burro food, which makes some of them rather fat. Interestingly, fat donkeys carry a lot of their extra weight on their necks.

Caroline Wise in Oatman, Arizona on Knitting in Public Day

Apparently, the burros are either domesticated by now due to all the visitors feeding them, or they’ve come out to politely watch the knitting-in-public-day festivities.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

At this point in identifying our road trip, I got lost on the map for quite a while.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt nn Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

From where the next day started photographically, it only made sense that we stayed in Kingman, Arizona, for the night.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

But these photos looked like nothing around Kingman.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona

Joshua trees and vermillion cliffs weren’t triggering our memories, so both Caroline and I continued scouring StreetView on Google Maps, trying to find something from our photos that would hint at our location.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona approaching South Cove Marina

It turned out that we went in a very unintuitive direction, far away from either of our best guesses.

On Pierce Ferry Road to Meadview, Arizona approaching South Cove Marina

This overlook is on Pierce Ferry Road, which travels out to Meadview, Arizona, as we were approaching South Cove Marina. We turned around at this point as there were over 70 miles ahead of us that would need nearly 90 minutes to cover before we’d reach somewhere for dinner. This is how we wander into the Old West.

A Short Drive North With Jutta

Somewhere north of Fountain Hills on AZ-87 heading towards Payson, Arizona

Recovered from the intense trip to America’s northeast and Rinku and Yagnesh’s extravagant wedding, it was time to reset things with a short drive north.

Jutta Engelhardt on Lake Mary Road heading towards Flagstaff, Arizona

Jutta and I took this Wednesday after dropping Caroline at work to get in our little Kia Spectra 5, taking advantage of the cool weather and beautiful day.

Upper Lake Mary approaching Flagstaff, Arizona

Here we are at Upper Mary Lake shortly before arriving in Flagstaff, where my mother-in-law and I had lunch before heading down the 17 freeway to return to Phoenix and the heat of the desert.

A Hindu Wedding – Day 2

Yagnesh Rajnikant Damania getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

Things at a Hindu wedding are not so simple as getting dressed in your best clothes, there is the community preparation part that draws out a lot of laughter. From various prayers, joinings, sweets, a coconut, this milk and turmeric washing, to dances welcoming the bride and groom after they’ve gotten dressed in their wedding clothes, these events have many moving parts that rely on friends and family to help organize everything.

Rinku Shah getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

And then the ceremony begins with many rituals, prayers, and symbolic offerings to usher in a life of happiness.

Yagnesh Rajnikant Damania and Rinku Shah getting married in Phoenix, Arizona

And then they are man and wife!

Jutta Engelhardt at Rinku's wedding in Phoenix, Arizona

With my mother-in-law Jutta still in America, the Shah family extended the invitation to her and helped supply her with clothes appropriate for the day.

Caroline Wise at Rinku's wedding in Phoenix, Arizona

My wife is sooo hot.

Amish Buggy, Ephrata Cloister, to Phoenix

The blog posts of the previous 14 days were all updated in August 2022 to include more photos. Going from 3 to 5 photos to 2 dozen or more per entry, such as with this one, is common. As I’ve explained before, years ago, the bandwidth constraints made it difficult to include all the photos that I might have wanted. The good thing about these other posts is that while there were a minimal number of photos, I had written the narrative of what was happening over the course of the day, so while you may not have seen a photo of fireworks at Niagara Falls, I’d written of them. That’s not the case regarding this 15th day of our North Atlantic States vacation with my mother-in-law, Jutta Engelhardt. There were no photos and nothing written for this day, and I have no idea why not, but when I started moving sequentially through the day, I was surprised by this omission. So what follows is derived from the images, the itinerary that I still have, and the memories of Caroline and me that have been brought back to these days from the processes of updating the posts from the days prior.

Abe’s Buggy Rides in Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, was our first order of business after the obligatory taking care of breakfast. Seems that we’ll be out on the town in the limousine of buggies.

How can one move through the communities of the Amish, see them going about their day using horse and buggy, and not wonder what it must be like to slow things down and travel in a way that is reminiscent of another age? I suppose if you grew up here and you found these traditional people tedious or annoying as you wished to pass them on your way to work or school, then you probably have no romantic ideas of such an experience, but I did, and today here we are learning firsthand what’s it’s like to venture out behind a horse.

Our coachman supplied pastries this morning in case we did not have time for breakfast. nice touch. Among others, Caroline is holding a whoopie pie for later consumption. As you can see, it’s quite comfortable back here. I can almost hear the cynic who says, “Tell me how much you enjoy this ride come January when it’s snowing.” Sorry, cynic, I’m opting for a life of self-delusional happiness where smiles, pastries, and love are readily available and always within reach.

While the Amish may eschew gas and electric devices and machines, it doesn’t mean they aren’t crafty when it comes to dealing with the needs of life. I was so impressed with this manure spreader I had to stop to ensure I got a proper photo of a horse and gear-driven contraption of poop flinging.

Utility and symbiosis with the task at hand, be it a farmer, a father, or a member of his community, you gotta respect that. Towards the end of our buggy ride, our guides stopped at a sewing workshop, allowing us to take a look at another type of Amish ingenuity: air-powered treadle sewing machines.

Caroline and I have been here before; on our first cross-country trip in 2000, we arrived at Ephrata Cloister well before they opened, and so we had to skip a proper visit. We were not going to miss it this time.

Nearly ten years ago, I wrote, “Conrad Beissel, a man of German descent, was Ephrata’s founder and established this corner of Pennsylvania as somewhere he felt he could live as a hermit. By the early 1750s, Beissel was no longer alone, having attracted nearly 80 others who chose the monastic life of celibacy and self-discipline.”

Two years prior to this visit, Caroline attended a 4-day workshop in Harveyville, Kansas, called Yarn School, and now all of this equipment used in making yarn is looking familiar. A year after our visit, Caroline would acquire her first loom, and the process of making fabric would become part of her practice in the fiber arts.

Our tour brought us into an unrestored section of the cloister, allowing us to get a sense of the condition of the place prior to the efforts to save this tiny corner of American history. If you look at the photo three images below this one, you’ll see what a restored kitchen looks like as compared to this one.

Many of the rooms we looked at didn’t have doors and instead featured curtains because, living a life of celibacy, what need would there be for privacy?

Conrad Beissel died in 1768, the last celibate practitioner passed in 1813, and the church as it was ceased to operate in 1934. It wasn’t long after that that the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission took over the buildings and grounds to preserve things.

A restored kitchen.

This looks a bit too luxurious for the celibate members, so I’m guessing that this was the living quarters of one of the “householders” who oversaw the operations of the order so its members could devote themselves to the life of an ascetic.

Maybe someday, holidays will be able to be taken in living history settings where one could live as a monk for a week, a prisoner in an old jail, or as an Amish farmer.

The grounds here are beautiful and are what really instilled in us the desire to one day return.

I think there’s an underlying thought that maybe Caroline and I could have adapted to this kind of lifestyle as the isolation felt in our youth, led both of us to, at times, believe we might always be alone, so why not take it to an extreme? For her, it was a nunnery, and for me, it was the philosopher’s cave or mountaintop.

Next time we visit, it’ll have to be on a sunny day.

Time to leave.

About to turn in the rental car here in Baltimore, Maryland, and go home.

Shortly after departure, we were flying over some bad weather.

Just as Howard Hughes learned while he was making films, clouds make for great dramatic skies.

Rain falling but never reaching the earth.

This is what happens when you can’t pick just one sunset photo…

…because they keep getting better, like our wonderful vacations.

South to the Amishland

Wales Center, New York

We left Buffalo, New York, early this morning with half a cold Bocce Club pizza wrapped in foil and ready for breakfast. As typical of our travels, we meandered through the countryside, bypassing the speedier highway for more relaxed rural sightseeing. This photo was taken near Wales Center, just southeast of Buffalo; we are on the US-20A.

We have over 300 miles to cover today as we position ourselves closer to Baltimore, Maryland, from where we’ll fly home.

Along the way, we spotted a camel – what in the world is a camel doing living on a farm in New York?

Maybe it’s feasting on the beautiful flowers?

The sheep seemed right at home, though.

So, after Jamestown, Colonial Williamsburg, Mount Vernon, D.C., New York City, and Waterloo, New York, where Memorial Day began, we’ve now been to Mt. Morris, home of Francis Bellamy, who wrote the Pledge of Allegiance. At this time, we are traveling on NY-36 and avoiding the toll roads.

I’ve probably said it a hundred times before, but you don’t get to stop to admire brooks, sheep, camels, or flowers from the freeways or thru-ways as they are known in New York.

Obviously not seen from a main highway.

Ice Cream Island in Dansville, New York, with John and Jutta, though I spy a cone in my left hand for Caroline. I know it’s hers because I’m the vanilla man while she’s the “Anything-but-vanilla woman.”

The more we see of New York away from its big cities, the more it feels like New York State is one of the most beautiful in America. While every state we visit has some inherent natural beauty, and it would be near impossible to briefly quantify here in this short paragraph what those distinguishing characteristics are that have me feeling that New York stands out; it just seems to be that way.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Tioga, Pennsylvania

It wasn’t long before we arrived at the Pennsylvania state border and stopped at a visitors center with one of the best views of any state visitors center we have seen so far.

Near Tioga, Pennsylvania

Perched high above a river valley, on this clear day, you could see far and wide; only a panorama would have done the sight justice. A super-friendly employee at this roadside information treasure trove directed us to some beautifully scenic small roads to take on our way to the Lancaster, Pennsylvania, area.

Loyalsock Avenue in Montoursville, Pennsylvania

As we approached this famous Amish region, the forested roads gave way to idyllic pastoral farms. Hmmm, is this some kind of foreshadowing?

Jutta Engelhardt pointing out Mausdale, Pennsylvania

Jutta had to have this photo of her pointing to Mausdale because her daughter Stephanie might get a laugh about seeing this. You see, Stephanie’s nickname is Maus, which in English is mouse, so you could read this as Mouseville.

Rural Pennsylvania

The Amish are near.

Rural Pennsylvania

I could have tried to get a better shot of Mill Creek Dam, but this is what I got. When you live in a desert, things like flowing water hold magical appeal.

Amish girls in Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

The wheels made of wood and steel belts combined with the clopping sound of the horseshoes can seem loud, and then there are the horse farts along with the poo that falls out right before your face, but still, this form of transportation seems like a lot of fun if you don’t have a hundred miles to cover. It’s too bad there are no parallel roads, so the Amish don’t have to share roads with cars. Regarding the comment about loudness, I’ve never seen an Amish buggy feature a booming sound system that rattles nearby buggies.

Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

This is the Mascot Roller Mills & Ressler Family Home, built back in 1737 in Ronks, Pennsylvania.

Leacock Township, Pennsylvania

We are in the heart of Lancaster County, where the presence of the Amish is felt everywhere.

Amish man plowing his field in rural Pennsylvania

If there’s daylight, there’s time for work.

Amish farm in rural Pennsylvania

If it looks quiet out there, it’s because there are no machines, no electricity, no TV, no video games, not even the internet.

Rural Pennsylvania

By now, we have passed a number of black horse-drawn buggies moving members of the Amish community down the same roads shared by those of us in our speeding cars.

Amish farm in rural Pennsylvania

After our guilty stops to gawk at these folks living their lives in a fishbowl, we head over to one of the many Amish-style restaurants out this way to stuff ourselves with all-you-can-eat family-style dinner and then check in to our motel.

Amish man with two of his children behind a team of horses pulling a plow on their farm in Pennsylvania

Just as the sun is setting over Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, the sun is about to set on our two-week vacation here in the North Atlantic states. Tonight, we get in early to start rearranging our bags for tomorrow’s flight back to Arizona. Two dozen books, a dozen refrigerator magnets, yarn, thimbles, and various other souvenirs will be packed up and ready to go. No lamenting the end of this trip, though, as it has been nothing less than perfect. Plus, we still have two more things to do from our itinerary tomorrow.