Whales, Walls, and Water – Day 9

We’ve already been out and about with a walk along Clarks Cove as the sun was supposed to rise, but the heavy clouds and rain cut that short. Back in the coziness of our room, I crawled into bed for a nap until our host, Ron, was ready with breakfast. Talk about feeling like royalty living on the edge of luxury; this is it.

Imagine it’s the beginning of the Civil War in 1861, and Melville published Moby Dick 10 years prior but is still struggling to be recognized as a serious author. He and his wife, Elizabeth, are walking up to this house, and there are no waiting throngs; celebrity is proving elusive, but in the future, long after this writer has perished, he will find immortality. Maybe it’s only the notorious that find fame in their lifetimes when it relates to the kind of impacts that change our perceptions.

The New Bedford Whaling Museum opens at 9:00, and maybe because others are still at church here on Sunday, we are the first of just a few people to be visiting the exhibits. The bones Caroline is standing between do not belong to a dinosaur; they are the jawbones of the sperm whale. If you’ve not read the book, Moby Dick was an albino sperm whale.

This is a half-scale whaling ship named Lagoda that was built nearly 100 years ago, long after commercial whaling had come to an end. For five years, Melville worked the seas hunting sperm whales on a ship similar to this, where he would have had to participate in everything from harpooning the creature to taking it apart and rendering it down to oil to light parlors across America.

New Bedford Whaling Museum

From the whaling ship, the crew would board whaleboats armed with a variety of harpoons used for killing the leviathan, as seen here from a replica, though I’m not certain that the harpoons aren’t real.

Around this time, we met a docent named Lucy, who happened to be here on her day off. We share with her our fascination with all things related to the sea, how we’ve been to the Monterey Bay Aquarium countless times, our visits to Coastal Oregon, the love of tidepools that we read Moby Dick in our car while traveling, and how all of this influenced our trip to visit New Bedford. Picking up on our obvious enthusiasm, she decided to share something with us.

Lucy went over to a locked cabinet, telling us how the things inside were usually shared with school groups as adults typically don’t find it all that interesting. What she took out and handed over to us was a sample of spermaceti, some sperm oil, right whale oil, and the treasure of all treasures, ambergris. Ambergris has a scent that is magical and beyond my ability to explain just what it is. As for Lucy, she’s originally from Poland which allows us the opportunity to discuss things European and acknowledge our perception that not many Americans seem to have a deep curiosity for the natural world.

We were not going to leave New Bedford without a visit to Johnny Cake Hill to at least catch a glimpse of the Seamen’s Bethel and the Mariners’ Home. I have to admit that we couldn’t make time to visit these iconic and historic buildings as we are on our way to Mystic, Connecticut, to visit the Seaport Museum that we didn’t have the opportunity to check out when we were in the area seven years ago.

Somewhere on the road in Dartmouth, Massachusetts.

The gimmick of a giant milk jug with a Holstein perched atop it worked to drag us over to Salvadors Ice Cream stand on the side of the road in Dartmouth. This is probably the quickest way to pull Caroline and me into a business; just dress it up in some kind of absurdity, and we’re yours.

Our interests seem to have no bounds, well, that’s excluding jazz, country and western, most sports, racism, and the will to stupidity; so beyond that, we are pretty much interested in most everything, including stone walls framed with dandelions on one side and blue sky on the other.

Get out and see America NOW. Believe it or not, this country is disappearing as it loses its identity to consumers of blind conformity. We visited Gray’s General Store here in Adamsville, Rhode Island, which has been in operation since 1788, but we are so far off the beaten path that, in spite of its authenticity, this historic business will likely never draw enough tourists to make it viable as those people picked up what they needed at nearby New Bedford, Massachusetts, or in Providence, Rhode Island. Meanwhile, the locals increasingly buy their goods on Amazon. Combine this with the need to remove our increasingly valuable old signage and weathervanes lest they are stolen, and the very appearance that adds so much character to these outings will one day be gone.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Adamsville, Rhode Island

Sure, our faces are blurry but this is part of our proof that we were for a second time in our lives here in Rhode Island. It’s just crazy to think that Los Angeles County is nearly four times larger than this state. Strange that our last trip to this state saw Caroline as being blurry, and now we both are; what gives?

Add coastal Rhode Island to our list of desirable places to live.

The Breakers in Newport, Rhode Island

Apparently, some very wealthy people thought the same thing about the Newport area of Rhode Island, such as The Breakers seen here. While we didn’t have the time to visit this mansion once owned by the Vanderbilt family, we made a note that it might be interesting to one day visit the complex of mansions maintained out here by the Newport Preservation Society.

Castle Hill Lighthouse in Newport, Rhode Island, was our last stop before getting on it to head over to Mystic, Connecticut, where we had a room booked for the night.

We arrive in Mystic with the last bit of light offering us a glowing horizon that punctuates another perfect day. Our course today took us on a beautiful winding series of roads that kept us close to the Atlantic among farmlands and the summer stomping grounds of America’s elites of 100 years ago. The golden age of the American Industrial Machine was at its strongest back then, with the super-rich building a lifestyle that took full advantage of the countryside that was theirs. Today, we were able to have a brief glimpse of what was part of that appeal.

Going South in Maine – Day 8

How do you turn a 240-mile, four-and-a-half-hour drive into an all-day affair? You travel with John and Caroline. But if you do, be prepared for our flavor of crazy, such as leaving the motel at 5:30 in the morning. Waking to a clear sky and some brisk weather, we were prepared to indulge the senses with more Maine than was originally on the schedule and to limit it to a smaller area for the sake of taking in the environment.

We stayed overnight in Ellsworth because of its proximity to Bar Harbor and the Acadia National Park to the north, but on stepping out of our room, we decided that our first visit was enough and that we should explore new territory, so we headed south toward Surry, Maine which became the location for our first photo of the day.

As we continue to meander across the countryside, trying to balance hugging the shore using roads that aren’t always in the best place to capture glimpses of the larger bodies of water attached to the Atlantic and being aware that we have a destination we have to reach today, we come to Blue Hill, Maine. These little villages on the various inlets, bays, and rivers make it immediately clear why the Bush family is so enchanted with coastal Maine.

C&G Grocery in Sedgwick, Maine, is about the furthest we’ll head out on this peninsula today, though Little Deer Isle and the larger Deer Isle sandwiched between East Penobscot Bay and Jericho Bay are calling us.

Instead, we’ll continue our drive of exploration and consider those islands in the bay as places that will hopefully one day draw us back to Maine for a third encounter with the state. Further north, we were aware of how the land was just moving out of winter, but here we are starting to see signs of spring.

Castine comes into view and whispers in our eyes that maybe we’ve found one of the communities we’d like to spend some of our retirement in. The idealism layer we are allowed to drape over our perception to make a town or village into the image we desire is likely delusional, but it’s far better than looking at these bucolic locations through the filter of the angry side of the population who are frustrated by the lack of jobs. What kind of jobs do they often want out this way? Unsustainable ones that would destroy the seaside and pastoral appeal to those of us who are traveling as they strip the land of trees and drag every last fish and ounce of coal or oil out of the surrounding area.

Trinitarian Congregational Parish of Castine, Maine, was established in 1829 and proudly boasts of its Protestant heritage coming from the Puritans who left England to help establish the United States. The community of Castine also lays claim to being one of the longest continuously inhabited areas in North America, occupying this area since the early 1600s.

Dice Head Lighthouse here in Castine has been standing since it too was built back in 1829 though for decades now it sits decommissioned.

This small town is the epitome of a beautiful, if not perfect, seaside community. The population is tiny and gets even smaller as the local Maine Maritime Academy sees many of its students depart for Eastern Europe in early May aboard the training ship the State of Maine.

Heading up the coast on the Penobscot River we spot and have to stop for this abandoned trawler that turns 70 years old this summer. Used originally as a fishing boat, it was acquired by the US Navy in 1942 and commissioned as the USS YP-414. Following the war, it reverted to its original name, FV Squall, and stayed in operation until it was removed from the registry of boats in 1977 and became a breakwater for the marina where it remains docked and rusting away.

We ate lunch at Verona Island’s Seabreeze Restaurant, which isn’t really important at all, but as we continued our trek south, we had to cross the Penobscot Narrows Bridge, which enchanted us with the feeling that we somehow knew this bridge. Getting home we learned that the cable-stayed bridge had just opened six months before and had been featured in the media as being one of the 100 best innovations of 2006.

Our second visit to the Purple Baboon in Belfast, Maine our first was back in 2000.

Add Belfast to the list of places we could call our summer home.

On the Little River in Belfast, just adding to the charm.

On Highway 1, we were driving along when I looked out to the sea and thought that might be a nice photo. Forget the sea view as I found this license plate from Maine that spells out VEGGIES. With Caroline being a vegetarian, it seemed like a sign from the universe that we are meant to be here instead of it just being a lucky find where someone lost a license plate off their car; that would be too simplistic an explanation. We dragged this back to Phoenix to hang on our wall as a souvenir of our time out here, seeing we couldn’t find anything else representative back at the Purple Baboon.

Chestnut Street Baptist Church in Camden, Maine, represents yet another faction of the Puritans as a separatist religion that was on its way to America to practice their flavor of fundamentalism back in the early 1600s. Four hundred years later, we’ve brainwashed ourselves into believing in a righteous form of Christianity to an extent that we cannot perceive our own radicalized beliefs, which, from my perspective, look a lot like Islamic fundamentalism. I resent these practices with a belief in some outer-space-inhabiting deity who is portrayed as a petty-minded bigot full of rage that casts unsaved souls into an abyss while rewarding whack jobs who propagate agendas of hate and intolerance with eternal life and/or virgins. Give me a break! Although I’ve got to admit that many religious buildings that celebrate their god(s) are amazing. Maybe we should pray to architecture?

Camden Marina plays host to vessels that should be ordained as holy craft as they shuttle the fragile souls of humans over the dark and mysterious seas, which have a fierce power to consume lives while offering nothing in the form of redemption. Maybe the sea is the real God?

Somewhere on Highway 1 on the way to Portland, I stop at my personal lord and savior who has set up shop in the back of the mobile church of commerce. I’m a Foodatarian who prays three times a day, sometimes five, in the direction of the dining table. On that altar, I crucify the body of the animal and vegetable before consuming their flesh as a sacrament. Sadly I practice some of the worst aspects of Catholicism as after consuming the soul of the meal that failed to accept me as the son of God; I banish it to a life in hell by turning it to shit and sending it into the darkness of the eternal sewer. Maybe that lobster stew will see the light and find my truth before it, too, must suffer damnation.

Last great view of the Maine coast before getting on the turnpike and cruising right through New Hampshire. I’m done with the religious stuff, well, at least until we get to Salem, Massachusetts, and we can start examining the religious zealotry that led to the burning of witches. Seriously, what the hell is wrong with humanity?

We should all go on vacation and worship beauty, pray to blue skies, and baptize ourselves in the waters of the sea for the sake of communing with the fishies.

You may have the impression that when we travel, we avoid large cities – you would be right. On this day, though, we intentionally made our way into the heart of Boston and grabbed a parking spot at the Boston Commons. Turns out that Boston really is a nice city, well, the little we saw of it. Diversity is the most obvious feature; history comes on quickly, and friendliness is just around the corner. Our tour was a fast one, with only two hours on the streets.

We checked out the grave of Paul Revere and tried to identify the exact spot of the Boston Massacre, which we were standing on, but the signage wasn’t very good (and it doesn’t help that this historic site is now a traffic island). For Caroline, the highlight would have been the site of the Boston Tea Party, but we couldn’t find it for the life of us – it appears the area is under construction and difficult to approach for the time being. A friendly guy on the street and his girlfriend told us how great Boston is and only felt sympathy for us living in Phoenix. Both had tried living in Phoenix but found it too impersonal and ‘cold.’ China Town is small compared to San Francisco’s, Washington D.C.’s, and Los Angeles’s China Towns, but hey, at least they have one.

Too bad we didn’t have more time to visit the historic side of Boston, but at least we are now intrigued and will hopefully find ourselves quickly returning to Beantown.

Our destination today is New Bedford, where we are staying at the Melville House Bed & Breakfast – right in Herman Melville’s old room; hooray for whales! After we checked in, we ventured into the old town and found some dinner at Freestone’s City Grill in a former bank built in 1872 that is part of the New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park. Besides a dish of local quahog, you should know that Caroline also enjoyed a Whale’s Tale Pale Ale!

Arriving at night was a stroke of luck as under the cover of darkness, the charm of 1850s New Bedford seemed to still be alive. Cobblestones and old-fashioned lights with the architecture looking much like it must have when Melville used it as part of the story that was as big as a whale.

This might have been Melville’s room but might not have been, as nobody knows for certain. It is known that Catherine Melville hosted her brother here, but it is also true that it was well after 1850 when Melville penned Moby Dick and his sister lived here. No matter these small details as after Caroline read this amazing book out loud in the car to us over the previous months, we are simply delighted in this opportunity to dwell in the shadow of Melville and what he captured 157 years ago.

America – Day 10

View of the Atlantic from Pilgrim Sands Hotel in Plymouth, Massachusetts

I may as well give away the secret: today’s weather will be poor all day. If there was a speck of blue sky, we missed it. There is a good view of the ocean, though, and that makes up for the disappointment that the sun has dipped out.

Atlantic ocean wildlife

This penguin is in disguise as a seagull, those black tail feathers are the giveaway. Maybe I should choose a day from this trip and just lie about everything? In town here in Plymouth, we stopped for some coffee at Lalajava and tried their cranberry nut cream coffee, good stuff, and so we make a note to get on the internet when we get home and order some. (We never did do that, and as of 2018, as I’m back-filling these blog entries, they are out of business)

The somewhat controversial rock that is claimed to be "the" Plymouth Rock in Plymouth, Massachusetts

So this is the alleged “Plymouth Rock” that is not likely the landing spot of anyone from the Mayflower. The problem with the story is that no pilgrims ever mentioned the existence of this disembarkation point in any writings. It wasn’t until 121 years later that someone started the myth that this was the very spot where these early pilgrims set foot in North America. So, while it is interpreted as a symbol of that early colonization, its factual historical significance is relative.

Cranberry bog in Massachusetts

Our first sighting of a cranberry bog. You can bet this elicited a stronger curiosity than the rock in the previous picture. We also passed the Ocean Spray World of Cranberries headquarters. Apparently, we are in cranberry country.

Rhode Island state sign

Sadly, we just weren’t motivated enough to go stand in the rain and try to grab a selfie in front of the Rhode Island state sign. Welcome to the smallest state in America from the car.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Rhode Island

We needed to do something to commemorate being in the smallest state in America, and so during a break in the rain, I made this WTF face after wondering how Caroline made herself blurry.

Connecticut state sign

I had to catch this Connecticut Welcomes You sign while driving down the road. Anyone who knows me probably knows I giggled at the “Town of Stonington” part of the sign.

Somewhere in Connecticut

This Connecticut place is kinda pretty, even on a drab gray day. At least the rain let up.

Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut

We arrive too close to the museum closing, and with the weather what it is, we decide we’ll have to wait for another day to visit the Mystic Seaport. We are disappointed but certain we’ll return. Something I should point out about this cross-country journey we are on, this is more an orientation of discovery to get a better idea of the lay of the land known as the United States. If we don’t get to a particular place, that’s okay because this is just the scouting exercise.

Entering New York City

I didn’t think for one second that while the majority of our trip had been rural and that we’d kind of freaked out in Boston due to the congestion, we might have the same reaction in New York City. Heck, this was so exciting, this idea of us visiting the Big Apple together for the first time, that the thrill propelled us right in. From entering Manhattan via the Bronx, we head south, making our way over to the Hudson Parkway. Wow, we’re on Broadway!

Sign pointing to Brooklyn

Okay, that was a supremely bad idea with the concert of beeping horns and bumper-to-bumper traffic. We headed for the exit leaving Manhattan via Brooklyn and then crossed over to Staten Island on the Verrazano-Narrow Bridge.

View of the New York City skyline

This was the best handheld shot I could get of NYC from Staten Island before we tried to put even more distance between us and the chaos.

White Castle Burgers in New Jersey

I’d only ever had these from the frozen food aisle at some random grocery store out West; they suck fresh and in person too. What do people see in White Castle? They need In-N-Out Burger.

It’s 10:00 p.m. when we enter Pennsylvania, our fifth state today. It will be 11:45 before we finally find a Ramada Inn in Reading, Pennsylvania. We must have stopped at half a dozen other motels that were all sold out. We are tired.

America – Day 9

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

We live for being next to the water. Everything feels perfect when we are at the coast including here at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park.

Panorama of Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

Our old Sony camera only shot 1600×1200 pixels during this trip, but the magic of Photoshop stitching images together let us resolve things just a wee bit better. Here’s Frenchman Bay from side to side. Click the image or click here to load a larger view to see more detail.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

Hours could pass, and as long as the weather stays dry, we’d be happy as clams to just walk along the shore all day.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The distinctive look between the northwest Pacific coast and here is striking. After Oregon, Maine might be the next choice of where we’d love to live. The only problem with living out this way might be the roads, though the area around Bar Harbor is fairly maintained. Maybe someday we can spend some months up here and get a better idea of what things are like in winter and summer.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

There’s certainly a lot more here than just the sea, but it takes some serious effort to avert our eyes from that body of water that seems to be calling us.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

I have no idea what this is, but it looks yummy, though I’ll bet a dollar it doesn’t taste as good as it looks.

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The strong wind makes the peak of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park brutally cold. We are only at 1,533 feet above sea level, which is called a hill out west, but out here on the east coast, this is a mountain and it’s the highest point on the U.S. Atlantic coast. While the thermometer reads 42 degrees, I’d bet that with the wind chill factor, it’s not a degree over 10. Quick, let’s jump back in the car!

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

A panoramic view from near the peak of Cadillac Mountain. Click here or the image to see a larger view.

Near Bar Harbor, Maine

Finally, it was time for breakfast, so we headed back to Bar Harbor for something to eat at Rika’s Family Restaurant. Our server tells us how Bar Harbor becomes a ghost town this time of year, and during the summer, it’s difficult to move down the street because the crowds are so thick. This feast or famine situation makes things difficult for those who can’t winter down in Florida or over in Arizona, where most of the town is already. Afterward, we stroll down the street searching for the refrigerator magnet we must find. We found a magnet but also a ceramic tile of the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse so now we’ll have to head that way and witness it for ourselves.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

With the sun out and blue skies, the Atlantic Ocean shimmers in beauty. We are on the way to Southwest Harbor out towards Tremont, where the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse is situated.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

Moving slowly along the coast as we find places to stop and explore the shore. I should point out that these rocks can be slippery: my butt found out the hard way as I went down flat on them.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse on the Maine coast

This was the best view we could muster of the lighthouse. It was built back in 1858 and is located in Tremont, Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise with a snail we named "State of Maine" that we got as our reminder at the Purple Baboon in Belfast, Maine

So this was the souvenir we ended up with from Purple Baboon over in Belfast. We named this snail “State of Maine.” You might also notice we are traveling with a Kodama hanging in the window just behind Caroline. The Kodama are spirits from Japanese folklore that inhabit trees, similar to the dryads from Greek mythology, with the name dryads being the basis for the plant dryas, which will figure in a couple of our trips in the future after we go to Alaska and the Yukon, but that’s 12 years from now so I’ll wait to write about that stuff then. This particular Kodama was featured in the film Princess Mononoke.

Around this time, we also returned to Belfast for some lunch at the Maine Chowder & Steak House and then pointed the car towards Camden, where we made note that we would have to visit this small village on a subsequent trip.

Witch Dungeon Museum in Salem, Massachusetts

Before reaching Salem, Massachusetts, and the closed-for-the-day Witch Dungeon Museum, a guy at a gas station in Maine recommended that we visit both Annapolis and Mystic Seaport. From Salem, we drive into Lynn (established in 1629) and believe we are in the land of hairdressers, doughnut shops, roast beef dives, pizza joints, and Chinese restaurants. It should also be known as the place of the world’s smallest street signs.

Sumner Tunnel in Boston, Massachusetts

Boston is a madhouse of traffic anarchy, and this tunnel is no better. Only $2 to pass through Sumner Tunnel with our nerves already frayed, and then here comes an emergency vehicle forcing all of us to merge right in a tunnel that was already bumper to bumper. We looked for the area of the Boston Tea Party so we could see it in the dark while it was closed too, but we never found it.

Boston skyline at night in Massachusetts

Leaving Boston behind, we head for a quieter destination to stop for the night; Plymouth sounds interesting, so we’ll invest the hour and drive south. Once in Plymouth (yep, that one made famous by a rock), we stopped at Plymouth House of Pizza for dinner and then checked into the Pilgrim Sands Motel with an ocean view!