Utah to Oregon Road Trip – Day 2

Kanab, Utah early in the morning

Red rock, sandstone, and short scrub in an arid environment mean we are still in the desert, but that doesn’t mean we love the landscape any less. We live out west and have gazed upon scenes like this countless times, and still, we appreciate it as though it was the first time.

Roadside in Kanab, Utah in the early morning

I don’t believe we’ve ever been through here in summer; matter of fact, I think it has almost always been winter as opposed to fall or spring. Why come through this way during the winter months? Quiet and serenity, just like this pond next to the road.

Caroline Wise and the roadside donkey in Glendale, Utah

We’ve lost count of how many times we have stopped here in Glendale, Utah, to say hi to this now-old donkey named Maisy. My guess is that we first met her about 20 years ago. By now, we’ve also met her owners, Cloyd and Sherri Brinkerhoff, and when the day comes that this super sweet donkey is no longer in this field, we’ll be truly sad that our visits with her are over. She’s never failed to come over to the fence and bray, which on occasion has made other wanna-be visitors get back in their car and promptly leave.

Snow on the horizon somewhere north of Glendale, Utah

While I pointed out that we typically visit in winter, I didn’t let you know that it can be cold out here; really cold.

Frozen waterfall next to the road on Highway 89 in Utah

Yep, that cold!

Caroline Wise standing in the Great Salt Lake off Interstate 80 in Utah

Cold, though doesn’t stop Caroline from her first steps into the southern end of the Great Salt Lake. I point out the southern end because there’s a chance she stepped into these salty waters on a previous trip when we visited Antelope Island further north. The weather has obviously been beautiful while we’ve been out on this leg of our road trip, but then again, no matter the weather we always find a silver lining to whatever nature delivers.

Interstate 80 in Utah

Struck by immense beauty, we are forced to pull over and gawk at the reflections and snowcapped peaks.

Tree of Utah off Interstate 80 in western Utah

This is Metaphor: Tree of Utah out in the middle of nowhere “growing” in the Bonneville Salt Flats between Aragonite, Utah, and West Wendover, Nevada, off Interstate 80. This sculpture was created by Swedish artist Karl Momen in the 1980s.

Bonneville Salt Flats in western Utah

The Bonneville Salt Flats stretch for miles across a flat, desolate landscape that is spectacular in its asceticism.

Pooling water on the Bonneville Salt Flats in western Utah

Not a blade of grass, bush, tree, or sign of wildlife was met out here. The salty brine of the pooling water on the salt flat appears to sterilize the environment, although it also seems to welcome the reflection of a kind of beauty not found near other bodies of water.

Caroline Wise taking in the last moments of sunlight on the Bonneville Salt Flats in western Utah

While our drives can be lengthy, this one was 503 miles and took all day into the evening; we never forget to stop and gaze at the sights that feel so uncommon to our wandering eyes. Orange and lavender light lifts off the glistening salt, all the while looking like fresh snow as the sun sets once more on this former lake. Fifteen thousand years ago, during the last ice age, the lake that stood here covered nearly a third of Utah and was about the size of Lake Michigan. Now, with the lake evaporated, a salt bed that is nearly five feet thick in places is all that remains.

Travelers Motel in Elko, Nevada

You are looking at a large part of the criteria on how we choose motels when we are traveling. Pay attention; I did not say hotel. For those who don’t know the difference, in a hotel, you enter from an interior door, while a motel room, is entered from an exterior door. Consequently, motels are cheaper as they are probably deemed not as safe from those who veer a bit far into paranoia. But it is not the door that helps us choose a place to spend an overnight visit; it is the sign. Caroline has a soft spot for nostalgic neon signs reminiscent of the golden age of travel in the 1960s, so the cheaper the room and more colorful the sign, the greater the chance that we’ll be checking in for the night. Tonight’s stay here at the Travelers Motel is in Elko, Nevada.

Driving Home From The Yampa

John Wise at JB's Restaurant in Vernal, Utah

This is my “Really, you want to take my photo 20 minutes after I woke up and haven’t had a sip of coffee yet” face, a face I don’t share often. Considering this long-neglected day isn’t being posted until 2023, I’m guessing no one will ever see it. Yep, this is another of those “Why didn’t I finish posting these images” oversights that took nearly a decade to rectify. So it goes.

JB's Restaurant in Vernal, Utah

I guess this dinosaur at JB’s Restaurant draws the kids in; well, it worked on us, too, as the promise of seeing female dinosaurs frolicking in bikinis spoke loudly before our sleepy brains kicked in and remembered that dinosaurs are extinct.

Caroline Wise in Utah

Trying to add this post proves nearly futile as I’ve run aground from the sea of stories and memories that might have conveyed a little something else to share, or maybe I’m just in a hurry to get this written so I can move on to the next task in front of me.

Monument Valley in Utah

Not only am I done after writing something or other about this shot of Monument Valley from here in southern Utah, but from this point, Caroline and I were only about 300 miles from home. I often wonder why I neglect to capture something or other of the scenery on the way home and can only attribute it to the need, the burning urge, to just get home after a trip where we feel that we’ve seen and done enough.

Yampa – Day 5

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

We’ve made it to day 5 of another epic river adventure, well, a mini-epic, as this was our first river trip lasting less than two weeks. While it was wonderful, it was barely enough time to be fully lost in it all. Another great aspect of this brevity is that it means I’m on the last day I need to find something to write about while not having notes and idiotically waited nine years before tackling the last two days of our time on the Yampa and Green Rivers.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Could this be part of the Morgan Formation? I certainly don’t know, and unless I want to go raft the Yampa/Green Rivers again, I may never know, but at least I can take solace in the fact we’ve been immersed in this experience and have seen these things with our very own eyes. If we are in the Morgan Formation, also known as the Round Valley Limestone from the Pennsylvanian period, we’ve been traveling through rock layers that are between about 66 million and 300 million years old.

Petroglyph off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

A bison petroglyph etched into the sandstone at Island Park. Learning more about the petroglyphs here in Dinosaur National Monument isn’t easy, but I did find out that there are many more we’ll never see as the park service doesn’t divulge their whereabouts, nor do they expose where ruins are due to vandalism. Think about this: there are those existing among us who obviously cannot steel petroglyphs nor take away an old ruin, which means they are protecting these sites from theft but from physical damage as we have people who are willing to invest the energy to go out of their way for the sake of attempting to destroy a history that might have been standing here for more than a thousand years. I can’t imagine what kind of degenerate that person might be or what their motivation is, but I definitely wish they didn’t exist.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

We are heading to the exit on a fast track as lingering is about done.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

I believe we are near the entrance of Split Mountain, named by John Wesley Powell here where the Green River slices over an uplifted anticline (folded rock layer). It will be the Split Mountain Boat Ramp a little further downriver, where this canyon adventure will come to an end.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Exitig Split Mountain. As I said, we are making tracks.

Our rafting group for the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

One more location to explore, but first, a quick group photo with everyone except the cameraman, that being me.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Just out of sight on the left is Split Mountain Beach and the boat ramp; after we cross the river, we’ll be leaving this all behind.

Off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Exploring a small opening under a massive cliff face across the river from our takeout, this was our last stop before packing out and bringing the festivities to an end.

Yampa – Day 4

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Well, this is an unmitigated disaster as it is now NINE years after this trip was taken that I’m sitting down to post something, anything, about the last two days of our rafting trip down the Yampa River through the Dinosaur National Monument that started in Colorado and is approaching the confluence of the Green and Yampa Rivers just ahead, still in Colorado. The giant rock face is part of Steamboat Rock. Back in 2018, I left a note on Days 2 and 3 that something went wrong in 2014 because after posting about Day 1 soon after our whitewater adventure, something interrupted my blogging, leaving a four-year gap between posting Day 1 and the next two days. The problem is, after pulling those two days out of the air with a promise that I was about also to include Days 4 and 5, I apparently fell off the raft and floated down the stream of oblivion until May 11, 2023. Now, I have a lot of nothing aside from these photos that documented the visuals of our journey; the details are long gone, and I curse myself for it.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

The fact of the matter is back in 2014; I had already embarked on another adventure that involved a deep dive into virtual reality. Things were likely moving fast around raising money, and I never had time to look back. Then, in 2018, I was gathering distance between that VR project and its failure when I turned to repair some long-neglected aspects of the blog, but before I could get very serious about things, Caroline and I were on our way to Europe for a few weeks. Obviously, I then faced the daunting task of blogging about our jaunt into Germany, France, Italy, Slovenia, Hungary, and Austria.

Look attentively at this photo, and you can see the line delineating the merger of two rivers with the muddy Yampa on the right and the relatively clear waters of the Green River on the left.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Well, here we are with shareable information, as what is known is that Caroline took out an inflatable little kayak-like boat called a Ducky. There’s no doubt I would have been terrified that she’d crash into some major whitewater and be eaten by the river; obviously, that never happened. With the Green River being dominant, the Yampa has reached its conclusion as a tributary and is now but a memory.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

These types of views will forever remain in the realm of nearly incomprehensible as to how the uplift, folding, and movement of our planet’s crust works over time. Intellectually, I have some minor understanding of this area of geology, but the fluid nature of rocks and their reorganization at the surface doesn’t mean it all makes perfect sense.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Though I ponder the jagged, almost labyrinthian nature of these forms through a filter of uncertainty, I’m no less enchanted with them as I am with the ocean, the sky, or the forest.

Willie Mather on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

This is the Scotsman William “Willie” Mather, a friend of Frank and Sarge’s who’ll become a friend of Caroline and me too.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

There are 23 distinct exposed rock layers here in the Dinosaur National Monument, and I can’t easily identify even one of them; this is what happens when you tune out, don’t take notes, and then let eons pass before tending to excavate memories.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

We’ve left the river at Jones Hole Creek and are out for a hike. We also entered Utah just minutes before our arrival on this beautiful day.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Our hike north along Jones Hole Creek will take us about 2 miles upstream.

Pictographs off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

According to one post about these pictographs along the creek, they are thought to be nearly 7,000 years old.

Pictographs off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Information is thin regarding the area so take this with a grain of salt.

Caroline Wise on a trail off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

A little-known fact about Ely Falls is that if there are a number of people in your group, there is a spot above the falls where a bunch of you can lay in the water and block the flow until it starts to go over you, then, everyone leaps up simultaneously and a rush of water spills over the falls absolutely drenching the person leaning against the rocks. Due to a bum knee that was slowing me down the entire trip, we didn’t arrive in time to witness Willie losing his pants as the water rushed over him.

Hiking off the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

And the hike back to the river.

Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

More river miles before pulling into camp for the night.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

You may not have known this about Caroline, but she’s a Class-A tent-putter-upper.

Frank Kozyn on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

Along the way, we were talking with Frank, Sarge, Jill, and Willie about our trip down the Alsek in Alaska a couple of years before, and on this afternoon, after Frank and Sarge had taken the bait, Frank hurt his big toe proving to him and Sarge that they’d have to work on Sarge’s wife to let him chaperone his Marine buddy and after much consideration, we all felt that something like this was just the kind of convincing that would work on her. Five years later, for Sarge’s 70th birthday, that’s what we all did.

Boatman on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

The challenges (shenanigans) the guides come up with for entertainment are not always cultural, historical, or scientific, at times they are inexplicable. Interpret this fun game any way you desire.

Yampa – Day 3

Yampa River

So, if you’ve already read Day 1 and Day 2 of this blog about our trip down the Yampa, you may have noticed that Day 1 had a lot of detail, and Day 2 seemed to be off. The truth of the matter is that Day 1 was written years ago when the trip was still fresh in our minds. Today, it is May 11, 2018, and with four years between that river trip and now, much about what was occurring is lost somewhere in the back of my mind.

Yampa River

I could wax about the feelings that seeing these photos brings back, but as I write here on a one-hundred-degree-hot day at a Starbucks, I’m mostly at a loss to pen anything meaningful. This is tragic to me because, with other blog entries where I’ve captured an abundance of details pertaining to the day, I’ve always enjoyed reminiscing and having impressions come back to me that would have otherwise been lost forever.

Yampa River

And so it will be regarding Day 3 of our Yampa River adventure: many things I would have ended up sharing with you normally will not even be shared between myself and Caroline. I suppose this will have to end up being a photo album entry.

Yampa River

Now, where we could get lucky is if Caroline has memories tucked away where she could bring them out and add to my not-developing meander through this poor excuse. At this point, I might recommend to the reader to just skip the rest of the text that will follow, as it might just be more of the same. Then again, maybe the wife adds some interesting bits.

Yampa River

It’s beautiful, isn’t it?

Yampa River

Spectacular even.

Yampa River

This 180-degree curve in the river is “graced” by the Grand Overhang. These photos are not capable of conveying the scale of this landscape.

Yampa River

That’s Sarge upfront, and Willie (from Scotland) behind him; the other names are lost in time. While most of the rafts on our trip were rowed by guides, there was one paddle raft that could be rowed by guests, and every day, a few volunteers decided to experience the river under their own oar power. There is a guide sitting in the back, steering the craft and giving commands to the rowers as needed (usually when we hit white water).

Yampa River

I’m writing about an equal amount of description as one thinks about much of anything while out on the river, just taking in the incredible moments of being fortunate enough to even be in such an environment.

Yampa River

They say a picture speaks 1000 words.

Yampa River

You don’t have to go far before the landscape shifts again, and this corner looks a bit different than the previous one or the one ahead.

Yampa River

The road ahead is paved with perfection and elegance; you just have to put yourself on that path to find it everywhere.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Mantle Cave

Sandstone along the Yampa River

Patterns were meant to be studied. They are how we find our way through ourselves and the universe.

Visiting Mantle Cave on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Granary

A change in scenery: we have left the river for a hike before lunch. River rafting is a bit like shampooing your hair: raft, hike, eat, repeat.

Yampa River

Try to find a better view for lunch. If you should be so lucky to have 100 incredible views for your midday meal during the course of your life, I’d think you were doing pretty good.

Lunch on the Yampa River

Knives and mayonnaise on a river trip to make sure we are having the complete experience.

Rafting the Yampa River

Stomachs full, it was not time for a nap, it was time to get back on the river so we could find another beautiful place for dinner.

Yampa River

This is the Tiger Wall, also known as “Kissing Rock,” and you can bet that all of us got the chance to step up while on our rafts and kiss the largest face we may ever kiss in all our lives.

Yampa River

Shortly thereafter, we encountered “the sporty rapid” here on the Yampa, Warm Springs Rapid. It was formed by a flash flood in the 1960s, and there are many stories about it because there were several trips in the area during that time. For us, the best part of this run for those in our raft was that just after I took this photo we got hung up on a shallow boulder that just kept us in place while raging white water rushed around us. Next, our boatman tried rowing us off our perch, and we tried to help by jumping around in an effort to shift the weight of the raft just enough so we could continue our trip downriver instead of having the water swamp our raft and push us into the churn. After a few tense moments, we successfully escaped our rock in the middle of white water, for which I was incredibly grateful.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

This is the second full can of beer Caroline has rescued from a river; what kind of luck is that? Yes, she drank it.

Camp next to the Yampa River

When you see boatmen gathered on rafts in this configuration, it means they are done for the day, almost. Between pulling into camp and making our dinner, they usually take about a half-hour to an hour to chill and evaluate the day, maybe talk about tomorrow’s plans.

Yampa – Day 2

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River

Finished yesterday with a “minor” mishap. As we went off to sleep, we found out that my CPAP battery had given up its charge. Inexplicably, it simply appeared to be dead, and after the initial panic that I would be without my CPAP for the length of the river trip, we had to accept our new situation and hoped it would not interfere too much with the quality of our trip down the river. So far, so good, and here we are, all bright smiles and ready for whatever comes next.

Rafting down the Yampa

For something to happen, we must go forward in search of just what that will be. For those of us who have never been here, this is pure exploration.

On the Yampa River

Deeper into the canyons, our boatmen row while we indulge in the luxury of taking time to see our surroundings.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

Close-up detail of the cliff in front of us.

Cliff side details on the Yampa River

The canyons and the rocks they are made from vary from corner to corner, and it is often the contrast between the types and colors that demand the greatest scrutiny.

Rafting the Yampa River

Those dark gray clouds portend something ominous in the distance. While it’s too early for a serious monsoon, it’s never too early for a good rain shower. Good thing that just a couple of hundred feet down the river can change your entire perspective; maybe blue skies are still going to arrive?

Kayaker on the Yampa River

We take an early camp so we can go on a hike; this is the view from where we are spending the night.

Plant life along the Yampa River

With our tents set up, Caroline and I wander around to investigate the area. The first plant to catch my attention was this juniper tree.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Sometimes, the beautiful depth of field and particular lighting are enough for me to post a photo to add visual memories to our journeys.

Plant life along the Yampa River

I could be mistaken, but I think this is a variety of sagebrush.

Trail for our hike along the Yampa River

As remote as this place feels and in spite of the fact that you can only get here by the river, there’s enough foot traffic to keep the trails clear and well-defined.

Plant life along the Yampa River

Just like I can never post enough photos of rivers, oceans, cliffs, animals, clouds, and Caroline, I can’t post enough of the plant life we find, either.

Panorama near our camp on the Yampa River

The sky grew dramatic and maybe even a little bit threatening.

Plying the Yampa River

It is warming the cockles to see a dory with its iconic form plying the waters in front of our camp.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Note: you can’t imagine my shock when here in the last 48 hours of 2023, methodically working through these blog posts and scanning for grammar inconsistencies and omissions, I discovered this, and the next two images had no text. There really is nothing to add as in the intervening years, we’ve not found any lost journals that could lend details to these days on the Yampa. 

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Not the loveliest of weather for a hike.

On the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Good thing there are lovely flowers along the trail; they’ll certainly appreciate whatever rain they can capture.

Caroline Wise on the Yampa River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado

Despite the looming clouds, our group decided to hike up to Wagon Wheel Point, which promised dramatic views over the Yampa. John decided to sit this one out because of his recently injured knee. Led by most of the guides, we hiked up the Bull Canyon Trail, which is relatively short but quite steep (about 500ft elevation gain in a bit over 1 mile). Once we had reached the canyon rim, we walked a bit further on what looked like an unpaved road to reach the overlook at Wagon Wheel Point. It was very humid but never actually rained, although there was lightning and thunder. Needless to say, we didn’t linger and turned around soon.

Plying the Yampa River

And then their travel companions brought up the rear as they went by effortlessly on the way to their camp.

NOTE: It’s now four years after we took this trip when I’m posting details for days 2, 3, 4, and 5. The brain is foggy, and while the pictures lend something back about the days, I’m left to a pure interpretation of them for the story. Caroline will have made a once-over on my writing by the time you are reading this and will have hopefully added some of her recollections, too. (May 9, 2018)

Yampa – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the put-in for the Yampa river

Here we are, set to go out on our third river trip, this time on the Yampa and Green Rivers. Yet again, we’ll be traveling with our favorite boatman, Bruce Keller, as well as river friends Steve “Sarge” Alt and “First Light” Frank Kozyn. We first met all three on our Colorado River adventure in 2010, and Bruce has since then also been our guide on the Alsek in Alaska. Our put-in today is at Deerlodge Park in Colorado on the eastern edge of Dinosaur National Monument. Unlike our previous multi-week trips, this “little” sojourn will only be five days long. At Deerlodge Park, we pack up our dry bags, find a personal flotation device that appeals to us, go through a safety talk, and before we know it, it’s time to get to the business at hand.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The brochure promised us plenty of sunshine, flush toilets, and feather beds. So far, our guides have certainly delivered on the first promise; we could not have wished for better weather. Back at the put-in, the terrain was relatively flat and for a moment did not portend that within an hour we’d be entering canyons, but here they are, and with their arrival, a rush of intrigue comes with this change in landscape.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

The passage narrows, and it starts to feel as if civilization moves further away from us. While not as expansive as the Alsek and not as deep and broad as the Grand Canyon, the intimacy of the Yampa here in Dinosaur National Monument is already allowing me to feel like this place is of a size that I can take in and almost comprehend.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the water getting a little choppier, the sense of being somewhere wild grows within. The adventure of the trip starts to take hold.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Geological details surround us. This is about the time I started to dream of a trip without a schedule where we could pull up to the cliffside and examine the sandstone, look for fossils, or just hang out and bask in the location we are so lucky to be experiencing.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

It’s just past midday, and we’ll pull into our first camp early to give us plenty of time to set up our tents, build out the kitchen, do some exploring, or just chill out and enjoy the moment.

Lichen in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

Our tent is up in minutes, and soon, we are out examining what’s to be found in our new neighborhood. Turns out there’s this gang of lichen hanging out, and while it looks soft and fluffy, looks can be deceiving. We also found a good amount of cacti giving us the stink eye, but no dinosaurs yet…..hmmm, I wonder if any of the other guests could be considered one?

Steve Alt (Sarge) and Frank Kozyn (First Light Frank) washing dishes off the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

That’s Sarge on the left and First Light Frank on the right; they are the official dishwashers on this trip down the Yampa. I just dare you to try to come between these two former Marines and their dishes. They even travel with their own gloves.

On the Yampa river in Dinosaur National Monument Colorado

With the rafts tucked away for the night and our bellies full, the only thing left to do was sit around a fire and talk. Like all first days out on a river, this one came with most everyone cutting out early and catching up on the sleep they’d been deprived of over the previous couple of travel days as we converged on Vernal, Utah, where the trip first organized before heading to our put-in this morning. It’s great to be out here on a river again, wondering what big adventure awaits us around the next corner.