Vermont and Beyond – Day 5

Who asks for a 4:30 wake-up call while on vacation? The kind of people who want to be outside their room by 5:15, that’s who. Why would anyone want to be up and gone by the break of dawn? Because there is no other way to witness this kind of sky. How many times will anyone have the opportunity to see such sights with their own eyes?

What are the subconscious influences that determine why particular routes are chosen over others? As I look at the map of the area, there’s a part of me that thinks that maybe we should have hugged the St. Lawrence River, but our primary place of interest wasn’t that waterway but getting over to Maine. But why Maine? To some degree of awareness, I vaguely know that the idea of the state holds some kind of romantic intrigue. I don’t know why this is in the back of my mind, and can only guess there are images that found their way into my imagination that took hold, kind of like the notions I have about old abandoned buildings.

I know that we have to avoid freeways at all costs until they become the only way to get to our destination, and the rural roads we travel – if we are so lucky to find ones without fences – have an appeal due to the lack of barriers, which draws me into this particular land being more open than those lands beyond even only two-wires of barbed wire standing between me and what’s on the other side. This doesn’t feel rational, and in the distance, I see exactly what I would see even with the two thin wires, but there’s an emotional component that defies logic. Somehow, this applies to my sense of maps when I’m plotting a path.

Rambling along old backroads, we are leaving the Trout River-Westville Rd and turning south on State Route 30 at the Canadian and United States border in New York. Across the border is Godmanchester, and in front of us is Constable. On the radio, we mostly find French broadcasters and a great diversity of programming – not like what we have heard further south. Not many people are living up here. There are a few farms but not much else besides the countryside and plenty of signs.

There are a lot of internal signs that impact my decisions to operate from intuition, while when physically maneuvering our world, the signs imposed by laws constrain my actions. The internal signs are pointers to dreams that help fulfill aspirations, and so it is that we are out here now, trying to decipher and make real whatever the hopes were that formed the structure of this adventure.

There’s so much water out here, and so much we can’t see. If we were here on a summer evening would we hear frogs, would we see fireflies, or whatever other nocturnal life living out here? Those who dwell along these roads and waterways, do they spend time learning about their environment, or is it invisible background noise no longer making an impact? We are enchanted by scenes like this and look for what fish, birds, butterflies, and plants are along the riverbank and what’s in the channel. We are only afforded the most superficial of experiences, though, as this isn’t about immersion but impressions.

While driving just south of the Canadian border, we’ve been tuning into various radio stations along the way with the majority of them broadcasting in French. When the soundtrack to an environment is as new as the place itself, the thrill of novelty is amplified and takes us into perspectives beyond our expectations. Since our departure this morning from Massena, New York, we’ve been traveling on the Military Trail Scenic Byway.

Our hearts pull us toward North Hero here on our return to Vermont, but the desire for new experiences demands we head over the bridges toward Swanton, Vermont.

There are a few things one must see in Vermont, and farms play a large role in that.

Covered bridges made of wood are another thing on the must-see list visitors should seek out. This particular one is the Power House Covered Bridge in Johnson, Vermont.

Add forests and cascades to that list; check.

Metal moose and giant metal daisies are the kind of lawn ornaments the people of Ohio could learn about, with their plastic deer decorating their front yards. Come to think about it; I wonder why the people of Arizona haven’t discovered fake enormous scorpions or javelinas for their yards? Then there are those pink flamingos down in Florida – that’s it; I want to see giant metal pink javelinas in my future.

With only a bit more than five hours in Vermont, I’ll be the first to admit that it was nowhere near enough time to understand the breadth of character this state has. Our second glimpse of the place makes it even more attractive, and the hope to return for a more extensive will burn within.

Hello, New Hampshire and North Stratford! So, we know nothing more about this first town in New Hampshire than we did before we passed through. Sadly, this state will mostly be a blur. Our route will take us down the Daniel Webster Highway along the Connecticut River until we reach Groveton, where we pick up the Berlin-Groveton Highway, also known as the Woodland Heritage Trail.

Stark Covered Bridge over the Upper Ammonoosuc River in Stark, New Hampshire is as good a reason to stop to take in a sight. Have I ever shared that Caroline and I are in love with America’s scenic byways?

While we were in town, this old church from 1853 also caught our attention. It was built shortly before the bridge above.

And within two hours, we were about to say goodbye to the Granite State but not before we heard our first loon out here on the White Mountain Scenic Drive. I should make a note to Caroline and me that we need to come back to this corner of America sometime in June or September to better explore Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island.

Home for the next three nights will be right here in the great state of Maine.

No loons here, but plenty of frogs to listen to here at Cupsuptic Lake on Wilson Mills Road.

How did I miss that the Wilhelm Reich Museum called Orgonon in Rangely, Maine, was along our path? Here we are, showing up well after they closed for the day, drats. Who was Wilhelm Reich you ask? Author of The Function of the Orgasm, The Murder of Christ, Listen, Little Man!, and The Mass Psychology of Fascism. Reich was also a controversial figure for his theory of Orgone, or the energy of the orgasm, and how its regulation was important for mental health. I first learned about him from William S. Burroughs back when I was a teenager in high school.

In Rangely, where we’ll be spending the night, we had an early dinner and then used the late-day sunlight to head up “Moose Alley.” Along the way, we spot about a dozen moose that look like they barely survived winter and some elk and even a beaver. Back in town, the sound of frogs and loons will soon take us off to sleep, but first, we request another 4:30 wake-up call.

Mother and Son Going to Buffalo, NY – Day 7

Vermont

What happened yesterday was bound to be part of our reality; I’m only surprised it took six days for it to arrive. The squabble carried through to today before things grew so bad that we simply stopped speaking to one another.

Vermont

Momma bird has never been good about tending to the nest, letting her young fend for themselves; this is the privilege of an only child. Approaching Montreal, I find myself grinding my teeth. While we cannot fully bypass the city, I make a circuitous route to avoid the center, but from what I can see of the diversity and architecture from afar, this would be a great place to explore with someone in love with what’s really important. Mom is grumbling about how worn out she is from our grueling drive and her insatiable hunger.

I’m not stopping for anything except border control in the United States. I want out of Canada so she can stop shitting on my sense of being inclusive of cultures, diversity, and adversity. Breakfast can wait until we are in Vermont. From my view of Montreal on the edges of the city, I can see a place bustling with a mashup of people on the streets. Hasidic Jews walk amongst Jamaicans, Hindus, Africans, Asians, and various other Canadians. Where I grew up in Los Angeles, ethnic groups seem to be segregated into enclaves, just as New York City had predominantly Irish and Italian neighborhoods prior to gentrification.

Vermont

I am determined that Caroline and I come back at the first possible chance as this is much closer than Europe with a lot of the cultural charm that attracts me to those old-world countries. It has been a breath of fresh air to see gasoline priced in liters and kilometers per hour on the highways; the temperature, while a hot 36 degrees Celsius, has this American loving the differences.

Our breakfast was in North Hero at Hero’s Welcome, but only reluctantly so. You see, Caroline and I stopped here five years ago and loved the place. My return was made in order to call Caroline from here and tell her if it was still the same and still as appealing as we thought. It was.

Further south in Charlotte, Vermont, is America’s oldest still-operating ferry crossing. We are heading across Lake Champlain for Essex, New York.

New York

With some food in us, my mom and I decided that we’d try to leave the events of the last 12 hours behind us. Serious damage has been done to our relationship, though I don’t believe my mother understands that. She thinks that what we say is of little consequence and that I take things too seriously. She is my mom; for god’s sake, I am supposed to take her seriously. I drove and stopped for the occasional photo, hoping my mom wouldn’t return to blurting out any more of her intolerance.

New York

Turbulent waters don’t settle quickly. I grew up at a time of great diversity, both generationally and culturally, combined with obvious gender and racial divides that were collapsing. Los Angeles in the 1970s and early 80s was a melting pot of people from all walks of life having an infinity of roles that were being played out. Not only did my mother dislike personal responsibility to such a degree that she abandoned my sister and me at kindergarten around 1968, but she’d carry that forward into her later years regarding her health, spending her own and other people’s money, along with her own mother, father, and aunt who she convinced to move to Arizona so they could be closer to a supportive caregiver. In the end, she squandered their savings on bad investments, travel, food, and her own business while putting a roof over their head but little more.

She knew when she threw us away that the man who would care for us was violent and physically abusive. One of my earliest memories of my father was seeing him beating up my mother in rage; I was probably about 3 or 4 years old. My mother wanted the yacht club life of being doted on by someone who would tolerate her and allow her to do as she pleased. I tend to believe that the only reason my mother brought my sister and me back into her life when we were in our late teens was so she could hang out with people who would be impressed by her carefree, do-anything lifestyle. Tragically, I didn’t understand the extent of her selfishness earlier and would get caught up with her fantasy life, but only to a point. The instinct to cherish and love your mom is innate, apparently, the same regarding your children is not the rule.

New York

As we drove through New York, passing the touristic town of Lake Placid, I couldn’t help but stew on, wondering who this stranger was next to me. I’m in conflict about the sense of responsibility and what love for a parent means when both of them turn out to be fundamentally broken. The child still within continues to look for approval and a motherly embrace, but in mine, I see a seething, horrible person who puts on a facade in order to attract sympathetic people to her pretend plight. Has my mother ever known happiness besides the times she’s left alone behind a plate of food? Her solace is a dish of oysters, and her altar is found in the Temple of Crème Brûlée.

You may think these are harsh words for someone who is dead at the time when much of it is being written, but the sentiment of her selfishness and narrowmindedness was shared with her more than once, which resulted in us not talking for years or me leaving family gatherings such as Thanksgiving after her spit-filled anger of calling me an asshole, just like my rotten father. So what is love when your parents are miscreants? For a long time, it was an unknown but highly desired mythical something that didn’t seem would exist for me. I couldn’t find it in others. Then, somewhere along the road, back while I was living in Germany and before I met Caroline I found a path to loving myself and all of my peculiarities, misgivings, fear, anxiety, and self-loathing. Relatively quickly, I discovered that just because your parents resent you and do not know how to share love doesn’t mean you must be bereft of such feelings within.

New York

Ah, the sunset. Caroline and I share the same appreciation and love of the magical sunsets that close out wonderful days. I look upon this one and dream of the next sunset I’ll share with her, knowing that it will stir mutual feelings of wonderment, and for those moments, we’ll be the only people on earth basking in the warm golden embrace of the sun.

This is Saranac Lake, where I first thought of stopping for the night before deciding to continue down the road.

New York

In Potsdam, New York, we visited Sergi’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria suggested to us by a couple walking along the road in the Adirondacks near Mount Arab. We gorged ourselves because that’s what we do, especially when confronted with emotional turmoil. Mom ate so much baked ziti, which she couldn’t finish that she had to skip dessert.

We continued westward to Massena, grabbing a room at the Lakeview Motel. Only $50 for the night and right on the shore of the Saint Lawrence Seaway. The evening comes to an end with me learning that my mom doesn’t believe one of her three children respects her. I am lost.

America – Day 8

About to cross from New York to Vermont

We are up early and ready to go by 6:00 a.m. We are also nearly as far north as we can go without heading into Canada, with Montreal a mere 45 miles away. This is Highway 2, and that bridge just in front of us crosses Lake Champlain and drops us into Vermont.

Hero's Welcome General Store in North Hero, Vermont

Route 2, down through a bunch of islands in Lake Champlain, had hints of being scenic, and so that was the road we traveled. In North Hero, we spotted the Hero’s Welcome General Store; not only was it aesthetically attractive they were serving breakfast: double win.

Joe's Pond, Vermont

Not only is this Joe’s Pond, but it’s in Joe’s Pond, Vermont!

Footbridge over Joe's Brook in West Danville, Vermont

A rare covered footbridge over Joe’s Brook in West Danville, Vermont. It might not be that rare, but it is the first of its kind we’ve ever seen.  This specimen was built in the vintage year of 1977, so while it may not be an antique it will forever be special to us as having the significance of being our first.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Maple Grove Farms of Vermont in Saint Johnsbury

Fortunately, we were traveling with our hair nets for just such a situation, which was lucky in that it allowed us to visit the factory floor at Maple Grove Farms and Museum. Caroline has, on occasion, tried convincing me that I look better in just such a hat, but unless she can find me the exact same kind with an already integrated beard net (not a secondary device), I’m not going for it. The tour through this operation was AMAZING.

Maple Grove Farms factory tour in Saint Johnsbury, Vermont

Caroline probably dreams about this sign as it is an all-time favorite that she’ll reference for years into the future. If it wasn’t for her, I’d probably never have known about the “jazz hands” meme.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to New Hampshire state sign

Today, we are seeing all the states. Lunch was in Gorham, New Hampshire, as we had to do something on our drive across the state. We stopped at Saladino’s Italian Market for some spaghetti and got back on the road. Driving is about all we’ll do today, as Maine is calling. Crap, so is a VW dealer, as we just noticed one of our headlights is out.

Pond in Shelburne, New Hampshire

Blue skies have arrived, and we are greeting it with smiles. I’ve probably said it a hundred other times, but it seems like every day we’ve ever traveled, we see at least some blue sky. This idyllic pond scene comes to you courtesy of Shelburne, New Hampshire, on Highway 2, about five miles from Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to Maine state sign

And in just seconds, we went from New Hampshire to Maine. About 10 miles down the road, we pulled into Bethel, Maine, to find a pay phone and call VW roadside assistance; they told us to visit Augusta, Maine, and that we should make tracks before they closed. So we changed our plans and headed to Augusta. Okay, we don’t have any other plan than to get to the ocean so we can brag to everyone that we’ve seen America coast-to-coast; well, a tiny sliver of it.

Roadside pond somewhere in Maine

After a couple of hours of driving in Maine, we are certain this is the state with the absolutely WORST roads outside of Afghanistan. We arrived in Augusta shortly after 4:00 in the afternoon and, not even 20 minutes later, were back on the road.  An hour later, we were at the coast and ready to shop. In Belfast, we ran into the Purple Baboon, intent on leaving with the greatest souvenir we would collect on this trip because this was the place to do that; the Purple Baboon demanded it. There’s a literary reference here to William S. Burroughs, one of my favorite authors, that is triggering this fervor. Read Naked Lunch if you are interested. Dinner was at the Weathervane Seafood Restaurant, and while Caroline is a vegetarian, she couldn’t resist having shrimp, some amazing clam chowder, swordfish, and some fried smelts & haddock. Note: the Weathervane is now gone, and Nautilus Seafood & Grill is at the location.

Somewhere between Belfast and Trenton, Maine at night

Looking back at Belfast, Maine, after dinner on our way to Trenton, Maine. The first motel we spotted was the Acadia Sunrise Motel, with advertised rates of just $31 a night. We took it and it actually was just $31. We have no shame when it comes to saving money so we can go further and do more. Note: 18 years later, they list rooms starting at $59 a night 🙂

Update: Five years after that last update here in 2023, the rooms at the Acadia Sunrise Motel now start at $109 per night. How’s that for inflation?