Chesapeake to Ocracoke- Day 13

You might think a grey, overcast day would put a damper on our enjoyment, but that’s not so. Oh sure, photos of landscapes are mostly better when shot under blue skies, but I blame poor photos on the lack of skills of the photographer. Then again, I also wonder why I even care how someone else might perceive our day as somehow tragic since we had to “endure” the weather. Maybe it’s all tied up in our superficial obsession with beauty and brand where everything must be wrapped in perfection, and if it’s not, we should feel sorry for those not able to participate in those luxuries. Well, come rain or shine, we are ready to move down the road and up the trail.

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

The last time we encountered the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel, it was under the dark of night; today, it is under the kinda darkish cover of heavy clouds. So, what’s the bright side of this? Considering that Caroline was born and raised in Germany and that I was raised in Los Angeles, how many people from Germany should be so lucky to travel this bridge and tunnel system twice in their lifetime, and for that matter, how many from Los Angeles will venture out this way?

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

Just above this tunnel entrance is the Virginia Originals & Chesapeake Grill where we had breakfast because how often does one have the opportunity to eat on a manmade island?

Chesapeake Bay Bridge in Virginia

Into the bowels of the earth – one must wonder, with all that water above our heads, are there any leaks down here?

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the North Carolina State line

Why it took four hours to travel 77 miles is beyond me; maybe Caroline needed the toilet a lot, as we know how women are. Just kidding, Caroline actually has a bladder that can compete with anybody. I’ve made her wait hours as I inconsiderately accidentally kept missing places we could have pulled over, and she barely made a squeak about how horrible a person I am as she was raging in pain. Come to think about it, I’ll bet a dollar Caroline will groan when she reads that I’m sharing her toilet habits with the larger world.

Stopping in Virginia Beach at Java Surf to try the butter pecan espresso probably didn’t help in my need to write about the frequency of peeing, but that’s what we did, though that was a while ago. Here at the North Carolina border, we stopped at the Southland Gas Station and Barbecue. This might be a first for us where gas and barbecue are had at the same stop. We did not have much hope for anything exceptional, but by the crowd inside this joint, we should have known we were in for a treat. “Wow!” is the best description of how amazing North Carolina BBQ done right can be, and for the first time ever, we found how much we can love vinegar-based BBQ sauce.

I know exactly what you’re going to think about now: “Are these two like a couple of Vielfraß when they travel?” Well, we kind of are exactly that. We are trying to think of the boiled peanuts as dessert. In any case, we have to take advantage of these little luxuries as they happen, as over in Arizona, we won’t find boiled peanuts for a thousand miles. As for the Vielfraß thing (pronounced feel-fros), it’s a wolverine in German, but in the context of talking about food, it’s a thing that gobbles up its food wherever it can find it in an urgent and frantic way. This has been our German word lesson of the day.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

We were warned to avoid “French Fry Alley” as the area from Kitty Hawk to Nags Head is known to some locals. The pejorative nature of the connotation turns out to be quite accurate as there is an air about this area that smacks of Atlantic City and Daytona Beach and attracts the lowest common denominator of subhuman troglodytes. My snobbish tastes definitely lean more towards Bar Harbor, Maine, New Bedford, Massachusetts, Cannon Beach, and Yachats in Oregon and other places that are quiet, civilized, and missing most of the vulgarity of people who reluctantly become tourists in the pursuit of an ideal instead of an experience.

The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

The museum here at the Wright Brothers National Memorial at Kill Devil Hills down the road from Kitty Hawk is okay, but the narrow roads with no pull-outs were not designed for people who want to pause along the drive to get out for a walk or take photos. We also notice there are no bike or hiking trails out here, what kind of park is this?

Caroline Wise at The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

The woman in the gift/book shop was downright rude, sealing our experience as being horrible, which is a first in a national park or monument. But enough of this blemish as we can simply move on.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Cape Hatteras National Seashore at Nags Head, North Carolina

Don’t get the idea we were in any way discouraged as we knew that lighthouses were coming up, and one of them is likely the most famous on earth. We are at Cape Hatteras National Seashore south of French Fry Alley and a million miles of culture away from all of that. I’m not sure, but I think our smiles help brighten the overcast sky.

Bodie Island Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

The Bodie Island Lighthouse is our first stop on Highway 12 South. This icon has been operational since 1848, and while tours are available, we opt to use our shortening time out here to visit the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse and maybe come back someday to visit this one.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

The Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, built back in 1870, looks like it hasn’t been painted since then, but from a distance, you’d never know. We’re thrilled to be here, so much so that Caroline splurged in the gift shop and bought a pendant of the lighthouse that she’ll cherish for years into the future.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

Of course, we are climbing the 268 steps to the top.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina

Here, we are standing atop this 137-year-old beacon to seafarers. Our day on this stretch of the Outer Banks is now complete.

Ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke in North Carolina

A little further down the road, we run out of land. We either turn around or swim. Just kidding, our plan all along was to take the ferry across the channel to the island of Ocracoke, where we had a room reserved for the night.

Harborside Motel in Ocracoke, North Carolina

This is what $80 gets you at the Harborside Motel.

At the harbor in Ocracoke, North Carolina

Dinner was at the incredible Cafe Atlantic, where we feasted on a couple of seafood combos and were wooed by the hummingbird cake served with the greatest toasted coconut ice cream ever.

Ocracoke Lighthouse in Ocracoke, North Carolina

The rain is coming down hard over at the Ocracoke Lighthouse, but along the way, we get to see some fireflies. Nature’s fireworks are the perfect close to the day.

Assateague Island – Day 12

What a great day to wake before sunrise and head over to the east side of Oxford for a direct view of the rising sun.

It’s nice and quiet here on a Wednesday morning outside the main tourism season. Just us, the birds, the Tred Avon River, and a growing satisfaction of the experience, this is all ours.

While she may difficult to see sitting there on the right, we sat next to the water for a good long time to enjoy this luxurious start of the day.

Back at the Ruffled Duck Inn, we were spoiled with an incredible breakfast of artfully arranged fruit, including honeydew, cantaloupe, strawberries, pineapple, and grapes. An omelet with spinach, mushroom, and feta with a side of small phyllo dough pastries filled with jam rounded things out. We are ready to take on the day.

We wanted to take the ferry from Oxford west over to Bellevue on the other side of the Tred Avon River, but we were too early. As we felt like getting out on our sightseeing adventure, we headed north and then south on our way toward Taylor Island.

Once we were on Smithville Road, surrounded by some luscious grasslands, we saw that we didn’t have enough map resolution to figure out which (if any) of the side roads we should venture down, so we circumnavigated the peninsula, skipping even more detours.

The Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park is out in the middle of all this, but seeing this has already been a detour, Caroline is excited for the ponies of Chincoteague, and I want us to visit Rehoboth Beach over in Delaware because the name is intriguing we forego the park during this visit.

The woman in an orange shirt was on a mission to save the orange turtle in the Blackwater Wildlife Refuge.

Bestpitch Ferry Bridge between Bucktown and Henry’s Crossroads appears to be the road less traveled. This is our form of winning.

This is not Millie’s Roadhouse in Vienna, Maryland, where we had lunch, but Millie’s is where we stopped. This place was along the road somewhere that could still be in Maryland, or maybe it’s in Delaware. No matter where it is, it no longer serves the purpose of sheltering people.

Georgetown, Delaware, is a quaint town on Highway 9 on our way to the beach. A Mountain Mudd Espresso hut came to our rescue as our eyes were growing heavy after lunch.

Dewey Beach in Delaware. You might ask, if we were in a hurry to reach Chincoteague, why would we head north? It couldn’t have only been the name Rehoboth that would pull us up here, could it? For the truth, see the photo below.

At how many state shorelines can Caroline step into the ocean? By the way, don’t get the impression that if she stepped into the southern shore of the state’s coast, she’d be satisfied; the more places along the ocean, river, and lake, the better.

Fenwick Island Lighthouse in Delaware could have been yet another valid reason to drive up this way. With over 700 lighthouses in America, it’s impossible that we’ll ever see them all. Turns out that August 7 is National Lighthouse Day, when many lighthouses across America are free to visit, and in New Jersey, just south of us here in Maryland, the state has reward programs for those who see a certain number of lighthouses on this one true important day in American culture.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Two years ago when my mother-in-law was visiting exactly at this time of year, I blogged about our travel plans to do much of what we are doing out here in 2007. That trip back East, for some reason or other, was derailed but not our desire to see the places that we dreamt of. When Caroline was a girl she read the book Misty of Chincoteague by Marguerite Henry, and the idea of visiting the real place that actually exists outside of the imagination of the author is a serious treat for my wife.

Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Seriously, think about this. There’s an island in America that is protected as a National Seashore because of a bunch of wild ponies that ended up here nearly 200 years ago. Now, those with the means are able to drive out here for a day of pony gazing, and those who might be inclined can even purchase a wild pony at the auction held every July when the ponies are rounded up and made to swim from Assateague to Chincoteague Island.

Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

If there’s a negative aspect to these fast orientation trips into America, it would have to be the brevity of time we can allocate to the most amazing places we wander into. Just look at this pony at the water’s edge with the glistening water framing the world in front of it: we could have stayed here forever until we moved 100 feet in either direction and caught ourselves mesmerized by the next sight. I wonder if there’s a part of us still out there watching this horse for eternity.

Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Nope, no ponies here, but there is the matter of ocean in Maryland on Assateague Island.

Caroline Wise at Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Trust me, she was out in the water, but this picture of Caroline was prettier, so I’m sharing it. If you look to the left behind my wife, you might get some idea of just how hard the wind is blowing out here.

Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

The few birds that braved this side of the island were being whipped around in the currents and seemed to struggle to stay aloft.

Caroline Wise at Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Back on the Sinepuxent Bay side of the island, things are relatively calm

Assateague Island National Seashore in Maryland

Time to leave the ponies on the north side of Assateague and head south. On our way back through the park entrance, we stopped at the visitor’s center and met a girl who was also named Caroline. She was incredibly helpful and even entertaining as she explained horseshoe crabs and whelks and also did impressions of pufferfish, sleeping horses, and, by request, even a starfish. We certainly received our fair share of laughs for our stop-in.

Crossing into Virginia, which they say is for lovers. I’d say we meet that criteria.

Assateague Lighthouse on Chincoteague Island, Virginia, but it’s getting late and we are being eaten alive by mosquitos. We spotted a few ponies down this way, though nothing like what we were seeing up north.

Minutes later, at the ocean, the sky is turning stormy and gray as the sun is fully under the horizon. Nothing left to do but continue our trek south to Nassawadox, Virginia, for our night at the Anchor Motel that we are failing to find. It turns out that they changed their name to Best Value Inn years ago and forgot to inform us as we made our reservation sheesh. Dinner was almost at a Burger King, but after waiting forever with other people waiting longer than us and getting angry, we asked for and received a refund that allowed us to head across the street to a bar & grill that was probably no better than the worst Burger King on earth.

America – Day 14

Barn on highway 60 west of Amherst, Virginia

When we left the Richmond area, it was overcast with sporadic rain. By the time we were passing through Amherst, Virginia, where we spotted this barn, the weather had turned in our favor. Before leaving for our drive west on the 60, we felt that the two Waffle Houses near our hotel were a sign that we had to eat at Waffle House, so we ate at Waffle House, but only once, not at both.

Long Mountain Wayside near the Appalachian Trail in Virginia

We stopped to inspect the hornet nest hopeful we’d spot some in the wild, but the nest was empty like so many of the places we’ve tried visiting on this trip that was closed. Nearby within 2 minutes is the Appalachian Trail, but at that time, we had no idea. A little further up the road was the Blue Ridge Parkway, again, we were oblivious of its presence.

Close to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Based on the time stamp on this photo, we were likely very close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Years would go by, but ultimately, we would return to drive sections of this national treasure of road that stretches for 469 miles from North Carolina north to Virginia.

Welcome to West Virginia on the way to White Sulphur Srings

The “Welcome to West Virginia” state sign is right over Interstate 64, where the speed limit is 70 miles per hour. There will be no getting out of the car for a selfie in the middle of the road. We note that we’ve now driven 5,429 miles since leaving Phoenix.

Statue for the "Confederate Dead" somewhere in West Virginia

Kind of strange being in a place that is celebrating the side that lost instead of putting the past to rest and joining the rest of the country, but what do we know? We are listening to NPR, which is recognizing Aaron Copland’s 100th birthday today, and broadcasting performances of “Fanfare to the Common Man” and “Appalachian Spring.” We keep the windows up so nobody hears the Yankees listening to a New York composer and a liberal radio station. I should point out that we do love bluegrass and hillbilly music too.

Another farm in West Virginia

What a gorgeous day and a fantastic landscape.

Hawks Nest State Park overlook in West Virginia

This view is from an overlook of Hawks Nest State Park in Ansted, West Virginia, on Route 60. Though we are heading west, we are in no hurry to get back home, just so you know that.

Kanawha Falls near the Gauley Bridge West Virginia

The Kanawha Falls and power station is supplied by the Gauley and New Rivers just upstream a couple of miles. There are so many places on this trip we would return to years after we finished our first cross-country excursion. Places like the Gauley River we would learn more about from Bruce Keller, who would be our guide on whitewater river trips down the Colorado in the Grand Canyon and the Alsek up in Alaska. On a subsequent trip, we’ll eat fiddlehead ferns at Kitchen Little in Mystic, Connecticut, or spend some quality time in both New York City and Washington D.C. in addition to returns to Maine, Boston, Baltimore, and first-time visits to Philadelphia, Montreal, and New Bedford in Massachusetts following the reading of Moby Dick. This trip will be the cement that enthralled us with the idea that we could travel from coast to coast and seek out the places we found intriguing.

Dilapidated old house next to the road in West Virginia

I have a soft spot for ruins and would stop at every single one if time allowed. This one was right next to the road in West Virginia.

Welcome back to Kentucky state sign

Returning to Kentucky drives home the idea that we are essentially heading back toward home. Well, I’m sure we’ll discover 1000 more amazing moments before we get there.

Meadowthorpe Cafe in Lexington, Kentucky

A FedEx driver up the road in Lexington recommended we stop for some dinner at the Meadowthorpe Cafe, turns out it was a great recommendation. It’s not always easy to find out about the way local eats when we’re out on the road. Matter of fact, I think that’s why we hear so many people gripe about long drives; they are confronted with the same hotel chains, the same McDonalds, Taco Bells, and Dennys, the same gas stations, and broad freeways that, while moving people quickly, make the landscape feel monotonous. Who knows what we ate here, as we didn’t take notes about it other than “fast, good, and cheap.” (Caroline says it was a southern-style grub; she’s probably right.) Our motel was about a half-hour out of town, a cheap joint called the Turfmor Motel in Wilmore, Kentucky. On the way to our motel, we passed the Mary Todd Lincoln House in Lexington, which, of course, was closed.

America – Day 13

Marine Corps War Memorial near Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

Waking up to the U.S. Marine Corps War Memorial this morning. Not much else to say here but “Oorah!”

Graves of John and Jacqueline Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery in Washington D.C.

At Arlington National Cemetery, we walked the grounds for a good while before heading over to the Eternal Flame at John and Jacqueline Kennedy’s gravesite.

Carousel Billy Goat at National Museum of American History in Washington D.C.

I wasn’t going to post this picture of another goat, this one a billy from a carousel that went round and round, immovable and fixed in time….again another metaphor for those who sit in these seats of power. The reason I wasn’t going to share it was that it’s not very compelling on its own, but I couldn’t find this anywhere else on the internet, so I’m thinking that this might be the only photo that exists of this carousel Billy goat at the National Museum of American History. Funny how everything here in D.C. seems to be a reminder of something that has been as opposed to showing us what can be.

China Town in Washington D.C.

For everything that Washington D.C. might be missing, culture is not one of them. This is a cultural melting pot with people from around the world seen walking these streets. Due to the abundance of diplomatic missions, it seems like foods from around the globe are also present. While Chinatown here has a wonderful gate, there’s not much more to the place than that, at least from our cursory observation. This is definitely not Chinatown from San Francisco or even Los Angeles.

Annapolis, Maryland

This was the best we could do in seeing Annapolis in Maryland. While it comes highly recommended, we have other plans for the rest of the day and will leave this for another visit.

Caroline County, Maryland on the Chesapeake Bay

This is why we couldn’t spend more time in Annapolis: Caroline County! Just kidding, we are driving down along the Chesapeake Bay and are looking forward to the wetlands and quiet after the crowds of D.C.

Ferry at Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

This is the ferry crossing at 23865 River St. near Route 352 in Whitehaven, Maryland. Just one car at a time gets taken over the Wicomico River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on a ferry over the Wicomico River in Whitehaven, Maryland

These are what faces look like on their very first ferry crossing in America. The Chesapeake Bay is beautiful, even on a cloudy day.

Narrow bridge just the other side of the ferry in Whitehaven, Maryland

Just after arriving on the other side of our ferry adventure, we have this rickety old wooden bridge to contend with.

Welcome to Virginia state sign

Spent quite a bit of time in the wetlands of Maryland before reaching Virginia, where we were getting nervous it would be dark by the time we saw (or didn’t see) our next landmark.

Susan's Seafood in New Church, Virginia

Caroline is a sucker for signs; the wackier, the better. Had to stop at Susan’s Seafood to snap a photo for our memory books. We didn’t get anything to eat here, so we’ll have to reserve an opinion on that, but we might be back, especially after I read the glowing reviews. Along the way, we also passed the world’s largest decoy factory and another sign at a repair shop that read, “We fix anything but a broken heart.”

It’s dark, seriously dark, by the time we reach the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel. So, while we can’t see much from the top of the bridge, these tunnels are amazing while simultaneously being kinda creepy as we plunge below the bay. Once back on the mainland, we headed for Hampton, Virginia, where we had the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to eat at The Grate Steak, where we got to cook our own steak (or veggie burger). Our hotel was the Legacy Inn by the airport in Richmond, Virginia. We are exhausted and crash well before midnight, as we have asked for a 5:30 wake-up call.