America – Day 14

Barn on highway 60 west of Amherst, Virginia

When we left the Richmond area, it was overcast with sporadic rain. By the time we were passing through Amherst, Virginia, where we spotted this barn, the weather had turned in our favor. Before leaving for our drive west on the 60, we felt that the two Waffle Houses near our hotel were a sign that we had to eat at Waffle House, so we ate at Waffle House, but only once, not at both.

Long Mountain Wayside near the Appalachian Trail in Virginia

We stopped to inspect the hornet nest hopeful we’d spot some in the wild, but the nest was empty like so many of the places we’ve tried visiting on this trip that was closed. Nearby within 2 minutes is the Appalachian Trail, but at that time, we had no idea. A little further up the road was the Blue Ridge Parkway, again, we were oblivious of its presence.

Close to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

Based on the time stamp on this photo, we were likely very close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Years would go by, but ultimately, we would return to drive sections of this national treasure of road that stretches for 469 miles from North Carolina north to Virginia.

Welcome to West Virginia on the way to White Sulphur Srings

The “Welcome to West Virginia” state sign is right over Interstate 64, where the speed limit is 70 miles per hour. There will be no getting out of the car for a selfie in the middle of the road. We note that we’ve now driven 5,429 miles since leaving Phoenix.

Statue for the "Confederate Dead" somewhere in West Virginia

Kind of strange being in a place that is celebrating the side that lost instead of putting the past to rest and joining the rest of the country, but what do we know? We are listening to NPR, which is recognizing Aaron Copland’s 100th birthday today, and broadcasting performances of “Fanfare to the Common Man” and “Appalachian Spring.” We keep the windows up so nobody hears the Yankees listening to a New York composer and a liberal radio station. I should point out that we do love bluegrass and hillbilly music too.

Another farm in West Virginia

What a gorgeous day and a fantastic landscape.

Hawks Nest State Park overlook in West Virginia

This view is from an overlook of Hawks Nest State Park in Ansted, West Virginia, on Route 60. Though we are heading west, we are in no hurry to get back home, just so you know that.

Kanawha Falls near the Gauley Bridge West Virginia

The Kanawha Falls and power station is supplied by the Gauley and New Rivers just upstream a couple of miles. There are so many places on this trip we would return to years after we finished our first cross-country excursion. Places like the Gauley River we would learn more about from Bruce Keller, who would be our guide on whitewater river trips down the Colorado in the Grand Canyon and the Alsek up in Alaska. On a subsequent trip, we’ll eat fiddlehead ferns at Kitchen Little in Mystic, Connecticut, or spend some quality time in both New York City and Washington D.C. in addition to returns to Maine, Boston, Baltimore, and first-time visits to Philadelphia, Montreal, and New Bedford in Massachusetts following the reading of Moby Dick. This trip will be the cement that enthralled us with the idea that we could travel from coast to coast and seek out the places we found intriguing.

Dilapidated old house next to the road in West Virginia

I have a soft spot for ruins and would stop at every single one if time allowed. This one was right next to the road in West Virginia.

Welcome back to Kentucky state sign

Returning to Kentucky drives home the idea that we are essentially heading back toward home. Well, I’m sure we’ll discover 1000 more amazing moments before we get there.

Meadowthorpe Cafe in Lexington, Kentucky

A FedEx driver up the road in Lexington recommended we stop for some dinner at the Meadowthorpe Cafe, turns out it was a great recommendation. It’s not always easy to find out about the way local eats when we’re out on the road. Matter of fact, I think that’s why we hear so many people gripe about long drives; they are confronted with the same hotel chains, the same McDonalds, Taco Bells, and Dennys, the same gas stations, and broad freeways that, while moving people quickly, make the landscape feel monotonous. Who knows what we ate here, as we didn’t take notes about it other than “fast, good, and cheap.” (Caroline says it was a southern-style grub; she’s probably right.) Our motel was about a half-hour out of town, a cheap joint called the Turfmor Motel in Wilmore, Kentucky. On the way to our motel, we passed the Mary Todd Lincoln House in Lexington, which, of course, was closed.

America – Day 5

Hopewell Culture National Historical Park in Chillicothe, Ohio

We are 2,361 miles from home, and it’s 34 degrees out this morning with ice on our windows. Our first stop is at the Hopewell Cultural Historic Park which features 23 mounds built almost 2,000 years ago right here in what would become Chillicothe, Ohio. The Hopewell people thrived in this area from about 200 BC to AD 500. In the desert, it’s a rare day that we see fog, but this morning, there’s a thin layer over the mounds and a bit more drifting over the nearby Scioto River.

Fog out over the farm near the Scioto river in Ohio

These are the kind of views we live for, well, these and a million others. We’re not far from Laurelville, where we met and talked briefly with a guy who collects hornet nests as a hobby. We’d never seen one before and found them quite interesting, but why someone would collect them, we didn’t know. He also makes apple cider, which is why stopped in the first place. Along the way, we dipped in at Hocking Hills State Park for a pit stop, unaware of what amazing spectacles were hidden in the park. Someday, we must return to Hocking Hills State Park: MUST!

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Nelsonville Brick Plant in Nelsonville, Ohio

Caroline and I agree this is one of the worst photos we’ve ever taken of ourselves, but it’s the only one we have with the kiln while visiting the Nelsonville Brick Plant. This place was built back in 1877 and closed in 1940.

Downtown Nelsonville, Ohio

I feel like we’ve landed on the real Main Street America, seeing downtown Nelsonville.

Waterfalls on the Muskingum river in McConnelsville, Ohio

This is part of the McConnelsville, Ohio, lock and dam project on the Muskingum River. Back in another age, this place was plied by steamboats. Out on the water, away from the falls, fishermen in small boats can be seen enjoying the day, hopefully as much as we are.

Roadside somewhere in Ohio

This photo was taken somewhere along State Route 60. We are traveling roughly south-easterly toward Marietta, Ohio.

A barn with "Mail Pouch Tobacco" emblazoned on it just north of Marietta, Ohio on State Route 60

This was our first encounter with the “Mail Pouch Tobacco” brand. Turns out that this or a slight variation is emblazoned on barns throughout the area. This one was just north of Marietta, Ohio, as seen from State Route 60.

Caroline Wise in the wheelhouse of a steamboat in Marietta, Ohio

Notice the strict pose from the German after reading the sign, “DO NOT TOUCH ANY CONTROLS PLEASE.” Caroline was not going to be accused of violating international law and being a bad steward of travelers’ diplomacy by acting out of line. This was taken while we were visiting an old steamboat at the Ohio River Museum in Marietta, Ohio.

Fish in the Muskingame river in Marietta, Ohio

As an added attraction, you get to feed carp with bread next to the boat. They get downright greedy! Right after I took this photo, the fish asked, “Why you take my photo, human?”

Knowlton Covered Bridge in Monroe County, Ohio

We took quite a bit of quality time to explore this little corner where the Knowlton Covered Bridge still stands. It was built back in 1887, is 192 feet long, and is only open to pedestrians.

Welcome to West Virginia state sign over the highway

Another one of these locations where we won’t be stopping for a selfie in front of the “Welcome To Our State” signs. This sign even has its own cool bridge, so we get over the disappointment quickly as we drive under this big green arch. For the sake of knowing precisely where we are at this juncture, we crossed the bridge on State Route 2 between Dilles Bottom, Ohio, and Moundsville, West Virginia. On the radio, we are listening to some bluegrass from the Jolly Brothers.

Entering Pennsylvania

More welcoming from the front seat of our speeding car. All state borders should have a pullout for selfies. Vote for it. Welcome to Pennsylvania.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania at dusk

Pittsburgh at dusk as we are heading for parts north of here.

Selfie of Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to New York state sign

Five days to make it to New York. It must be due to my being born here that I was drawn to get here sooner rather than later.

Dunkirk, New York

Before we got our first look at Lake Erie here in Dunkirk, New York, we stopped in Ripley for dinner at the Plummer’s Tavern. We tried the lemon fish with coleslaw and would return if we were to travel up this way again.

The giant doll in front of Valvo's Candies in Silver Creek, New York

Not exactly the kind of thing you might want to see when you’ve been out on the road for the better part of 16 hours, but there she stood, “The killer doll girl from the 50s – Dolly Dimples.” Not to besmirch this almost famous roadside attraction, but it did make us ask, WTF is this? Turns out she’s connected to Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York, and yes, her name really is Dolly Dimples. The next stop is Buffalo, New York – my birthplace.