Mention Yellowstone, and the universal question asked is, “Did you see Old Faithful?” The Old Faithful geyser is a mythological landmark that, while well known and seen the world over, exists only for the travel connoisseur,  photographer, and filmmaker to capture on their pilgrimage to this remote corner of our first national park. The reality is much more mundane: Old Faithful sits directly in front of three of the park’s major hotels. In order to claim a trophy and/or bragging rights to having seen Old Faithful, many visitors speed into the park, snap a photo, and are back in their vehicle before the geyser’s 5-7 minute eruption comes to an end.

Caroline and I have seen this trusty geyser erupt from all sides, from the balcony at Old Faithful Inn to the Observation Point two hundred feet above the geyser basin and many points between. From this early winter morning eruption, seen above, to a late evening moonlit eruption, we’ve tried to see it with as much importance as we place on all of the other beautiful details we are fortunate enough to view. We have watched Old Faithful on springtime visits, in the middle of a summer day, during fall, and now during winter. But Yellowstone is so much more than Old Faithful; it is a bastion for wildlife. It is boiling mud and steaming sulfurous hot springs. It is America wild and free, a national treasure to throw in a cliche.

Today’s snowshoe expedition is taking us to the Black Sand Basin, but first, we must cross over the Upper Geyser Basin once more. You might be able to tell from the amount of steam and fog hugging the earth that today is significantly colder than yesterday.

Hot water flowing underfoot and steam drifting over the basins create conditions that allow some quite peculiar ice formations to take shape. Maybe this configuration of stacked leaves of ice looking like fish scales [or sheepskin – Caroline] is mundane to someone who lives in Minnesota, but to my eyes, this is new and alien.

Yesterday, I mentioned ghost trees but never shared an image of one; well, here’s an example, and there will be more to follow.

With the heavily reduced visibility out here on the geyser basin, the whole place is seen anew. What might have been familiar yesterday is rendered other by so many reference points erased by the fog and steam. Here at Beach Spring, this is anything other than beachy.

Clarifying things about ghost trees a bit further: in yesterday’s writing, I mentioned them, twice even, but when I wrote that, I was showing you trees covered in ice. To add some accuracy to the story, the steam that washes over the trees collects on leaves and needles as ice crystals; I guess the fog, too. As they accumulate, they look like piles of snowflakes, which makes sense when you consider that snowflakes form on dust particles in the atmosphere, so the tip of a leaf or needle probably makes for a good point to bond with for water vapor. Then, as the sun rises and the snowy camouflage begins to melt, things start dripping, and if the air temperature chills quickly enough, icicles start to form.

Caroline is on the trail between Lion Group and Liberty Pool next to the Firehole River, mesmerized by the ghost trees ahead of her.

Well, this is nearly impossible to photograph in a way that you can see exactly what we are looking at. The air is FULL of diamond dust. This is also called a ground-level cloud that has taken form on an exceptionally cold day. Then, as I was trying to learn more about the phenomenon, I read that I was actually already familiar with diamond dust, as that’s what we are looking through when we witness a sun halo or sun dog.

Ghost trees, diamond dust, steam, fog, blue skies, and two toasty people on hand to witness it all. Oh yeah, we were heading to Black Sand Basin and were not supposed to get lost in all the magical sights we were seeing and experiencing this morning.

Liberty Pool is usually a non-descript and not very colorful hot spring at other times, but reflecting ghost trees in its black waters make it a spectacular feature.

Sawmill Geyser will only capture 15 or 20 minutes of our attention as I swear we really are trying to get to our destination instead of getting lost in wonder.

For anyone who knows us, you couldn’t have believed the end of that last sentence as you’d know we’d give about anything to be lost in wonder. Why else would we have kitted ourselves out with so much technical winter gear if not to explore an environment that can dip below minus 20 Fahrenheit?

Earlier in the day, our balaclavas were pulled down to our eyebrows and up to the bottom of our glasses; it was that cold. It doesn’t take long walking through the snow to warm up and soon find that you have too many layers on, but you wouldn’t have made it out in this kind of extreme cold had you worn anything less. Lucky me that Caroline will gladly take my shell and wrap it around her shoulders and all I have to offer her is this big warm smile.

We walk out into the fog, stride into the cold of the morning, and thank our lucky stars that we have the ambition to explore the extraordinary. Not everyone cares about where they are in life, even though they may fret about what they have or don’t have. What they are really concerned about is that they don’t have the aspiration to do anything about changing things. Change is uncomfortable and can leave you feeling alone and lost in a kind of spiritual winter, but it’s up to you to endure and see the sun shining through, no matter the difficulty.

As we near the Daisy Group, we are on the segment of the trail that will take us over the main north/south road that bisects Yellowstone, letting us begin our first winter visit to the Black Sand Basin.

Black Sand Pond, while still on the east side of the main road, should, at least by its name, be part of the basin, right? On the trail here this morning, we passed one other snowshoer but were otherwise alone. Hmmm, saying we were alone could imply that even with one another, we were alone; well, that’s not what I meant at all. We are here with every moment of time that has ever preceded us, carrying the mantle of life and acting as the ambassadors of perpetual happiness.

And then, when you think you’ve seen it all, the universe presents you with snow tails hanging on a fence and leaving you a mystery you know you’ll never want an answer to so as to not explain the unknown.

I wonder what Cliff Geyser might have looked like 1,000, 5,000, or 25,000 years ago? What will it look like 100, 500, or 1,000 years from today? I can’t begin to answer those questions but I can assure you that what I personally photographed here today, in fact, looked just as it appears above. Maybe the following is a well-worn trope here on this blog by now. I can’t remember, but I’m still astonished that Caroline and I will be the only two people in the history of humanity who will have witnessed this very moment in this corner of the earth.

Millions will choose to see the same football game, American or Global, and millions will listen to the same songs, play the same video games, and simultaneously dig into a Big Mac, but only Caroline and John Wise will look overhead here at Black Sand Basin on a Friday afternoon in January 2009 and be dazzled by three bald eagles gliding effortlessly south without so much as flapping a wing.

Part of me wants to take Photoshop to those yellow poles and erase them so I have a perfect nature shot of bison trodding on the snow in silent step with one another. The problem with that is I’d be covering up imperfection, and while in my eyes and from my words, it could appear that all is perfect in our world, there are always blemishes, though they should never take a front seat to elevating all we can to perfection.

Denuded nearly branchless trees sure look appealing to me in their stark contrast to ghost trees, psychedelic frost art, herds of bison, or the two people on the other side of the camera.

An hour and a half watching life roll by here at Black Sand Basin was thoroughly enjoyed. When a breeze came along and shook some snow from the tree, we were, for a moment, caught in a snowstorm under blue skies, a first for us. Of course, everything about this journey into Yellowstone has been a series of firsts for us while also being a glaring admission that my poverty of language doesn’t afford me enough superlatives to adequately explain or relate a fraction of our days, hours, minutes, seconds.

Punch Bowl Geyser back at the Upper Geyser Basin signals that we are on our return journey.

Along the way, we passed four cross-country skiers, including the Shefflers from Washington, whom we bumped into again and again during our eight days in Yellowstone. With the roads snowed over and a small fraction of the number of visitors that are attracted to Yellowstone in the winter compared to summer, this really is the time to feel nearly alone in the park, seeing it much the way it has been for the better part of the last half-million years before hordes of tourists arrived.

If you arrive at the recognition that we have a fascination with Sawmill Geyser verging on obsession, you wouldn’t be exactly wrong, except we are just as enamored with West Thumb, Artist Paint Pots, the meandering waterways cutting through meadows, night skies, hissing gasses, bubbling vats, and the crazy play of light here in Yellowstone.

The day started with Old Faithful and ended with Old Faithful, too. I wish you could see what you don’t see without me having to tell you, but there are no people between us and the geyser. They were not removed by Photoshop; they didn’t step aside so we could have an uninterrupted view, nor did we pay anyone for a private screening. This really has been our life where when we put ourselves out in it, we seem to have it all to ourselves.

Another snowshoe hike was on order for the day; this one was taking us over the Upper Geyser Basin to Biscuit Basin with a return on a snowy bike path.

Starting out early today, we were able to take our time lingering under the ghost trees, eyeballing ice bacon, watching bison stalk us, and catching our breath after the altitude and cold air stole it from us. More about all of that as this day unfolds.

These particular bison weren’t the creepy stalker ones that were hiding behind trees plotting something nefarious just out of view. I’d tried photographing those, but they were blending in with the dark trees, trying to be stealthy. Never trust a conniving bison is what my grandfather taught me.

Having spent the latter half of Tuesday here on a mostly sunny Upper Geyser Basin, we were not taking a lot of time this morning to dwell, as the area between Morning Glory Pool and Biscuit Basin is an unexplored corner for us, I think, and we want to get to it.

The geyser in the previous photo was captured as it was finishing an eruption before returning to just billowing steam. I’ve always found it intriguing to be able to see deeper into the springs and geysers of Yellowstone, so I’m sharing this close-up view of the interior.

The vertebrae and pelvic bone of an elk are not something you see every day.

For that matter, the interior of the Morning Glory Pool is also not seen every day.

Maybe I should have gone through all of our other photos of previous visits to Yellowstone to see if I have another image of Artemisia Geyser, but I do believe this is our first.

Ghost trees typically sit next to hot springs where the steam freezes on the tree, enshrouding it with incredible ice sculptures, dripping icicles, and what we affectionately call ice bacon. Ice ribbons form on branches with stripes in a gradation of clear to milky ice and back to clear – it appears that as the water freezes, the temperature, humidity, or who knows what determines whether the ice forming is going to be clear or milky. This looks to all the world like bacon strips made of glass.

A close-up of some of the ice sculptures we found intriguing.

We’ve never in our lives seen ice like this.

With blue skies on the horizon, we can have hope for a bit of sunlight today.

What you may not be able to immediately make out in this photo is that ribbons of ice have melted to a small extent during the previous warm days when it was hitting highs in the mid-30s (+1 and +2 Celsius), creating the icicles hanging from the tree.

Tempting fate, Caroline is standing next to Mirror Pool under nature’s daggers.

A bit of a guessing game is going on here, but I think that we’re looking over towards Cauliflower Geyser from a bridge that will take us over to Biscuit Basin.

The weather moves around a lot in Yellowstone, threatening doom one moment and heaven the next.

Near the entrance to Biscuit Basin, you’ll find Vulnerable Spring, though not typically with bison in the background standing in the snow.

As I write this, I find no small amount of sadness that the diversity of colorful hot springs right before my senses is unable to elicit the poetry or creation of a new language to convey the profundity of what is experienced when approaching something simultaneously beautiful, mysterious, and absolutely dangerous to life. While this is not something that can attack and maul you, it would be a conscious decision to be taken by its scalding grip.

Step upon the wrong spot, and you could find yourself the victim of your own curiosity, but that cautious distance we maintain works to pique the interest to see further into the workings of the earth. Drawn to see more, smell more, and know more, we are pulled closer, if not physically, then sensually, so we might have a secret whispered to the spirit looking for more.

If I were a painter, the play of light, steam, elements, life, light, and time would certainly guide my hand in knowing where to put down the stroke that might define the shape of things on the canvas. If I were a musician, might the patterns become self-evident notes offering me access to a world the likes of Eric Satie, Sergei Rachmaninoff, or Max Richter have known? But I aspire to write and find myself grasping at worn words that, much like tones and hues in novice hands, leave little lasting impression, and so I continue to practice laying letters down while never really growing confident that I have added any value to the page.

It will have to suffice that the light that shines from within the shared love of these two people fortunate enough to experience places that can make hearts sing, simply plays to the universe with us as the only audience.

There’s a poetry that floats overhead and flows downstream while shadows play and a glistening reflection works to seduce us, but the fleeting nature of it all is orchestrated for an immediacy that does not wait for others to join in with appreciation for this once-in-a-lifetime moment that can only ever be known by those present for witnessing such things. And so we take all we can into memories, but those impressions are weak and betray the desire that wishes to hold fast forever to a scene that might only exist in a passing, yet profound, glance.

What if we understood that all around us, above and below, everywhere in all situations, we were capable of extracting immense beauty from life? Would we continue numbing our sense of the profound that stared at us from our first to last breath and still chose to be immune to awareness in exchange for some meaningless gratification of the ego that never really satisfies the soul?

We are as steam is to a hot spring, the life on a planet. We will appear for a simple moment, adding grace to a landscape, and just as quickly disappear into an invisible atmosphere as though we never existed. Yet, within those fleeting few seconds, the light of our being might have illuminated a corner of someone else’s consciousness. Did we offer delight to them or weigh heavy like storm clouds looming on the horizon?

How easy it is to witness beauty and allow its constructs to be assembled in ways we define as intrinsically wonderful when we condition ourselves to define nature in non-threatening ways. Replacing the grandeur of our earth with promises of heavenly eternities diminishes our need to see the world as it is: incredible and rich with wealth beyond the things we adorn upon vapid existences.

There is no monetary value to seeing one’s shadows standing 30 feet tall in pristine snow, but then again, the remembrance of such a moment shared with the person you love is priceless.

We burst into nature and expend our energy in a flash of bedazzling spectacle if we are fortunate, or we whimper to the exit, hurt and unsatisfied as being here and gone is the fate of us all.

The warm glow of the late day tells us that time is moving us toward sunset and that we’ll soon approach nightfall. The temperature will drop, as will our ability to continue past the wee hours. We’ll take time to replenish ourselves with food and sleep, but who among us understands the need to take time to replenish ourselves with sensuality found in the dance of nature? Even if our lives should be brief and taken away too soon, what will the encounter with its magic have been worth? Will you have lived or simply existed? This then begs the question, how do we accept the machinations of a society diminishing the value of the individual by corrupting our ability to find the light that illuminates our better senses?

The silhouettes of life around us grow longer, as does the value of what our own shadows have collected by just being out here walking into beauty.

Goodbye day, and thanks for allowing me this opportunity to roam in a world that, for a little while, is mine to share with others from now and into the future, should these words continue to flow outward.

I achingly long to remain under these skies, in these moments, next to my best friend, who is in the same space as I am. I sense the sting in her eyes and murmur in her heart as the music of nature paints this canvas of the extraordinary that’s being amplified by our shared love.

The pulse of life is there; can you hear it, see it, feel it? It will continue throughout the night and still be with us the next day, with or without you, with or without me. If we are lucky, we will rise together again to witness the cold give way as our hearts warm the relationship between you and me, us and them, day and night, life and death. Persisting in celebration, love, and happiness, this is the landscape we live to always explore.

The call of life comes from deep within and deep below if you are able to tune your senses to pick up on the magic of all this. But for now…

…we will go to sleep like all things do so we might restore ourselves for another day emerging from the deep.

Breakfast is finished, trail mix and Clif bars are packed for lunch, Camelbak bladders are filled, and then I notice one of Caroline’s snowshoes is broken. The ski shop for Old Faithful Snow Lodge is around the corner and down the hall from the lobby. Without a hint of trouble, the girl at the window trades our rental snowshoes from Mammoth with a pair from her inventory. Our ski drop, this is what it is called even though we are going snowshoeing, leaves the hotel at 9:00. At 9:30, after being dropped off next to the Kepler Cascades, the snowshoes are strapped on, jackets zipped up, and we are on the march.

Seven miles is the total trip distance we must snowshoe through snow and ice. The Lone Star Geyser Trail follows the Firehole River for much of our trek. Crunch, crunch, crunch, our snowshoes plod ahead, breaking the silence that, at times, is accompanied by the gentle sound of the babbling waters.

The sun is hiding out behind clouds; then again, the wind is also at bay, and we are comfortable on our long walk. Not too far along, we spot a Canadian goose treading water, and he has company; a male and a female hooded merganser duck are swimming to and fro.

Ducks and geese are easy to get along with; they stay in the water, and we stay on the trail – simple.

Not so simple to deal with: along the trail, we see a spot where a herd of bison appears to have been hanging out. Turns out that it is a lone male bison who is not a very good housekeeper and has a healthy bowel, giving the impression that a small group lived in this riverside pasture. Lucky for us, he is not to be seen until we round the corner. Now you know why we came to know it was a single him. Caroline is nearly ready to turn back, but I assure her that this little bison is a good 130 feet away; 75 feet is the minimum suggested distance. We pass him while he busies himself, rooting grasses out of the deep snow. We couldn’t help but pause and watch him use his head as a plow, swinging it from side to side to push snow out of his way and revealing sweet morsels below.

By noon, we are upon Lone Star Geyser, and imagine there is no chance we should be so fortunate to have this geyser erupt during the short window we’ll be present. After all, this geyser erupts every three hours, and we were fairly certain that we had seen what must have been the steam cloud from an eruption at 11:00. Wrong. At 12:10, Lone Star begins erupting. For twenty minutes, the geyser puts on a show for our personal enjoyment and total disbelief that this is actually happening.

By 12:38, we were certain the spectacle was over, and with a four-and-a-half-mile hike back to Old Faithful Snow Lodge, we beat feet and got along down the trail.

On our way back, we saw Mr. Bison again, except this time he was napping under a tree in shallow snow. He seemed as tranquil as a full bison might actually become in appearance to two nervous snowshoers trying to look calm as they snuck by.

While from Buffalo, I did not mean to imply I was the beast napping under a tree. On the contrary, I’m the rainbow ice-cream-headed two-legged scaredy cat from the desert.

Crunch, crunch, crunch, we crunched to where the trail began and then crunched on over to Kepler Cascades for a peek and a toast of hot tea from the thermos before once again going crunch, crunch, crunch back to the Snow Lodge.

The Kepler Cut-Off trail next to the road was narrow and not groomed, making me prone to stumbling, so we re-joined the road and crunched our snowshoes all the way back to the hotel and our cabin.

After seven hours and seven miles, we were walking directly into the dining room to replenish our tired bodies. Oh, how we wished the Snow Lodge had jacuzzis as they do up at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Today is our 15th wedding anniversary, which is a terrific thing to celebrate in Yellowstone this winter. Our honeymoon back in 1994 was at the Grand Canyon National Park, and between these dates, we have visited forty of the fifty-eight National Parks in the United States – some many times over, such as Yellowstone (this is our seventh visit). It would be easier to list the parks we have not been to, such as the eight in Alaska, one in American Samoa, one in the Virgin Islands, Biscayne and Dry Tortugas in Florida, Cuyahoga Valley in Ohio, Isle Royale in Michigan, Congaree in South Carolina, Wind Cave in South Dakota, Kings Canyon in California, and Shenandoah in Virginia. I should also mention that we’ve been to roughly one hundred of the National Monuments, Lakeshores, Seashores, Trails, Parkways, and Memorials. To say we are in love with the natural beauty of America would start to come close to how much we appreciate this incredible country.

Onward with the day. The “Wake Up To Wildlife” tour with Doug got started so early that we had not a moment for breakfast but were supplied with a small boxed meal in the snow coach. In the dark, we drove out to Lamar Valley, a popular spot for wildlife viewing. In the first light of day, we saw three male elk roadside, quickly followed by a coyote not too far up a hill, checking us out. A car next to the road is a good indicator that someone is looking at wildlife; in this instance, that person was Bob Landis, the Emmy award-winning cinematographer for “In The Valley of Wolves.” While no wolves were in the immediate vicinity, we did get to watch a red fox mousing for food. Bob suggested we see wolf researcher Rick McIntyre a little further down the road, who had his scope fixed on a wolf pack; off we went to see several wolves.

Not disappointed with our wolf sighting, we jumped back into the snow-coach and continued further into the Lamar Valley and our first glimpses of sunlight. As though with divine insight, our guide, Doug, was talking about an elusive bull moose that had been reported in the general area. With the park’s size of 2.2 million acres (890,000 hectares), which is four times bigger than Luxembourg, it would seem impossible to pinpoint a lone moose, but within minutes, there he was – a young bull moose not far from the road. Doug could not have been more enthusiastic in his sheer delight that this animal was right there standing in the sunlight. I probably snapped one or two, maybe eighty photos while the moose made its way across the road behind us.

As the moose crossed the road (there should have been a joke found in that), we got to see it spook a couple of bison that took off running alongside it. As for us spectators, the only thing missing was a giant grizzly bear chasing all three of them.

Seriously though, there was nothing missing. Coming into the park under mostly gray skies, we are having an incredibly fortuitous moment as now, when the sun and blue sky make appearances the contrasts are downright enchanting.

There is no way to truly convey what we feel about our incredibly lucky existence and that we should be standing once again in Yellowstone while seeing it in a way that makes it an entirely new experience. One might think, “Oh, this is what rich people do,” but we are not rich in the sense that we have an inexhaustible supply of money and free time to come and go as we please. To the casual observer of this blog, do not confuse frugality in our everyday life with the opulence we wallow in when we are out gathering big experiences.

So, on the one hand, we are rich as we put great value on seeing our world wearing its many faces. We never tire of frolicking in the wealth nature lays before us. The worth we place on seeing a moose, a stream, or god rays streaming down on a frozen landscape is incalculable.

The idea that in our lifetime, we’ll have not only smiled upon one another countless times but are smiling out at nature as it offers us so much to be happy about is a gift it seems few are allowed to indulge in.

Wolf tracks are as amazing as seeing the elegant animals themselves.

Our wildlife expedition during the first part of the day is winding down as we are now heading back to Mammoth Hot Springs.

Once we get back, we’ll only hang around briefly until the next adventure begins.

Time for happy people to grab some lunch.

Funny how I’ve never been so enamored with the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, but here in winter, sans the crowds, its conveyance of being a refuge and warm shelter gives it greater significance.

Back on the road going further south than we ever have, at least during the winter.

Better take photos of all the snowcapped mountains as tomorrow they could be hidden by heavy clouds, and we cannot know if we’ll ever see them again looking just like this.

Driving over snow is a slow process which is fine by those of us who want to linger in the view.

There were times that I couldn’t remember if we’d ever traveled a particular road before or if this was a winter-specific path that failed to see at other times of the year.

Here we are for a tour of Norris Geyser Basin, led by our guide and driver, Danielle. The other passengers were Mark and Joanna from Houston, who also accompanied us on the Wake Up To Wildlife tour this morning, and as it turned out, they would also join us on the snow coach ride to Old Faithful tomorrow. (Check out their photos and experience on their blog at www.thetravelgeeks.com.)

As our small group was eager and willing to see it all, Danielle charged right in and got us going.

She marched us from here at Steamboat Geyser all the way around the snowy boardwalks, even across Porcelain Basin, only missing a small part of the basin, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

We did not sprint through the basin, mind you, as the four of us were eager to take in the sights that none of us had experienced before.

I can’t believe I shot all these photos in JPEG, but that’s exactly what I did because I felt RAW was too memory-hungry and that adjusting all these images in Photoshop would be painful.

I also can’t believe I’m foolish enough to attempt posting 38 images, but this is the price I must pay for Caroline and I enjoying so many that we couldn’t decide how to cut a meaningful number from the day.

Hoar frost is a phenomenon when the ground grows very cold and squeezes up the moisture that hasn’t frozen yet.

Through a lot of map scouring, I could figure out the names of these unnamed features, but who has that kind of time? I’ll bet I regret this in the future.

Can you tell that this is a panorama made from four portrait images? I didn’t think so.

Contrary to reports elsewhere, this is not olive oil, milk, and balsamic vinegar.

I could be wrong, but I think this is the Porcelain Basin, and just as I make this half-hearted claim, I visited Google and can confirm this is, in fact, the Porcelain Basin.

This was the path to Grandma’s house, where the big bad wolf might be hanging out. Time to leave.

Thanks to our winter guide, Danielle, for affording us so much time to see so much.

To see and hear Roaring Mountain in the winter is a treat as during the rest of the year, you get to first experience Roaring Crowd and then, only if you are lucky, do you hear the rumbling mountainside in the background.

Hmmm, where exactly did we spot these basaltic columns?

Not a well-lit bison in the foreground but an intriguingly lit mountain with some menacing clouds on its other side.

A bison a bit closer to the road wearing a milkshake mustache seemed to be enjoying itself.

The weather changes a lot out here.

Just as day gives way to night.

While we didn’t take advantage of this little luxury, the music that plays over the ice-skating rink was a constant companion during our time next door.

And next door was one of the jacuzzies that, for an hour, was all ours as we soaked in the hot water under light snow, serenaded by some golden oldies that played on over at the empty ice-skating rink. Seriously, life doesn’t and cannot get better than this. An amazing 15th anniversary, for sure.