Yellowstone Winter – Day 1

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Below-freezing temperatures, gray-cold sky, snow, and ice, it must be winter. But we are not in Phoenix, we are on vacation in Yellowstone National Park for our first winter visit to the park. Saying we are thrilled barely captures a fraction of what we are feeling; this is ecstatic, Wunderbar, delightful, and amazing. Pinching ourselves won’t make this more real; it cannot take away the sense of possibly doing something that could be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. We are at once adults looking through the eyes of a child experiencing all the wonder befitting a curious and imaginative wide-open sense of awe.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Friday night, we flew into Bozeman, Montana, and earlier today, Karst Stage transportation brought us to Mammoth Hot Springs. Melinda at the front desk checked us in, starting our visit on the right foot with her enthusiasm, friendliness, and patience by walking us through all the coupons for meals, tours, snow coach drops, and transfers, making our hot tub appointments, and pointing us to the ski shop. At the front desk of the ski shop, a gentleman by the name of Point set us up with snowshoes and then offered to drive us to the Upper Terrace Loop trail for our first-ever Jack London experience.

Caroline Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Neither of us had ever had snowshoes on our feet prior to today, but this is something to fall in love with. If either of us thought we might be clumsy using this new mode of transportation, it didn’t matter as we were up here all alone.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

It’s difficult to comprehend how extraordinary all of this is as 24 hours before, we were in the desert experiencing a day like so many other mild Phoenix days of winter, and now we’re deep in winter but also at Yellowstone, here without thousands of others and a soundscape, unlike anything we’ve heard here before.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

It’s like time has slowed down and is meeting us on our terms compared to the bustle of the summer season.

Caroline Wise on the Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

A mile and a half later, we had finished the trail and decided to walk back to the hotel via the boardwalks of the Terraces instead of getting a ride back from over near the warming hut. Finding the stairs downhill too packed with snow to walk on, we decided to slide down on our bottoms. Woohoo! Those snow pants really did the trick!

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Getting back shortly before nightfall, we went to dinner and met Cody, who would remain our server of choice for the rest of our stay at Mammoth and then it was time for the hot tub. We nervously expected to freeze getting in and out of the water; it was, after all, in the low 20s (about -5c), but to our great surprise, this was a piece of cake. The concrete around the jacuzzi is heated, and getting out of hot 105-degree water (40 Celsius) in freezing weather was easier than one would think – no, there was no wind, and the door to the heated changing room was only steps away.

The Upper Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park during a gray winter day

Our first day in Yellowstone was perfect and nothing less. The photo is on the Upper Terrace with a hot spring reflecting the now-dead tree branches that have been consumed by the hot mineral waters.

Bighorn

Big Horn Sheep on Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

While up on Mt Washburn early in our trip to Yellowstone, we passed a large herd of bighorn sheep near the summit. Still clad with partial winter coats, these sheep could not have been any more relaxed. My temptation to walk up and pet one was tempered by some semblance of understanding that these wild “strong” animals would probably simply knock me off the 10,000-foot mountain I was currently standing on had I gotten too close. Yeah, sure, I admit it, I had the same lame idea about the bear.

Are You A Bear?

A black bear road side in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We were out for a drive just this past Saturday afternoon heading towards the eastern park entrance there in Yellowstone, but the road, which was under construction, unpaved, with no guardrails, at a scary high elevation with impatient idiots tailgating us, forced an early turnaround. Lucky for us, a few miles back near Yellowstone Lake was the tell-tale sign that an animal had been sighted, meaning half a dozen cars piled up on the side of the road with heads gawking out of windows. Strangely enough, these people were looking towards our side of the road, and there were no vehicles sitting on that side, so we pulled right up, and seemingly out of nowhere, this black bear was pawing about the ground, looking for something or other. In the excitement of seeing a bear this close, you wouldn’t believe how difficult it is to take one picture in focus, even if you try fifteen times. After what seemed like ten minutes of blocking everyone else’s view, we left and, not three miles later, stopped at another bear-jam to check out a grizzly in the forest. The grizzly was too far away to get a decent photo.

Grand Prismatic and Other Sights

Up before the break of day so we can capture the first light to fall upon the Upper Geyser Basin. The sky is turning pink and pale blue before I’m able to capture a worthy photo to celebrate the return of the sun.

Our original plan to hike the Lone Star Trail was nixed so we could linger yet again right here with all these beautiful sights we never tire of seeing.

We’ll end up spending nearly three hours in astonishment meandering these trails refamiliarizing ourselves with features we feel we should know by now but still feel just as new to our senses as they did seven years ago on our first visit.

The building blocks are essentially all the same: water, minerals, heat, and gases, but these things visible to our senses manifest in so many ways that each unique spring, geyser, and the various other windows into the world below our feet demonstrates how little of reality is actually seen by us.

But we walk along in our daily life staring blankly at the artifice we’ve contributed to and we no longer are able to see the chaos of nature that exists around us every moment of every day. We are lulled into a routine, and that likely holds true for those who work in places like Yellowstone, as it seems to be human nature to take for granted the familiar.

You are an ant approaching a white-topped mountain that, upon the approach of the peak, you realize is not snow but calcium. At the crest, you look out across a vast sea steaming in the distance; should you fall in, you will instantly die in the scalding water. Love is similar in that you are an ant approaching the periphery of another person; you see their beauty, but in getting to know them, you find a depth you hadn’t realized before. Their potential stretches to the furthest point on the horizon, but what’s yet to emerge from them is still buried deep within. You’ll have to wait around and visit countless times before you realize they may be infinite, but are you too so infinite that you can continue to absorb what they have to offer?

The character of Earth changes every moment, with every step and shift in shadows, the thing once familiar has become something different. Did you know, did you really know that about yourself and those around you?

Why is it so effortless to see the beauty of those external things we gaze upon from the distance? The play of elements we see are all contained in this gas hovering above the surface of the earth; they, too, are internal elements of a stage we are looking into. They exist in the depths of our imagination as much as on the surface of reality, as our mind’s eye constructs the meaning of what we sense within our infinitely small heads. Inside these skulls, we work with hearts and souls to picture all things great and small that are only outside of us because of our skills of giving meaning to abstractions.

And now we reach that critical juncture where a thread must be broken as I’ve followed things as far as I can. A branch in the path is taken where things will sound and appear different, if not pictorially, then narratively, as though I may want to explore the vastness of linguistic travels; I only have an inventory of those words and ideas that I’ve allowed in. If measured in the accumulation of experiential content, I’m certainly wealthier in that department, but I cannot disgorge trees and mountains upon the paper for you to read.

Blogging here allows me my own geyser-like moments where the pressure below the surface accumulates until it explodes out into the atmosphere. There’s no idea where the fragments of thoughts will travel as they punch through, even when I attempt to guide them up and outward; momentum has a way of dictating enough chaos that sometimes the sight is beautiful, exquisite even, and then at other times they just sputter barely above the surface of awareness.

Choosing which images accompany a blog entry is never really easy. Starting this day with more than 450 photos that were taken with the hopes of being the greatest reminders ever captured, not all of them turned out that way. So, I must winnow them down to a manageable number. This particular photo Caroline chose to leave out, but it was one of my favorites and so it’s here. This scene was reduced to a monochromatic view where the reflection of our star in a thin layer of mineralized water removed most of the color that might have otherwise been present. Remove your own thin veneer of color, examine yourself for what type of light you reflect, and then ask if you are seeing the real you even then.

With the sun reflecting off this shallow pool of geyserite and calcite, a feature here at Yellowstone is created that might easily be overlooked. Not everything must have the colorful palette of the Grand Prismatic or the opulent height of the Old Faithful Geyser; even the little things deserve our recognition.

What is the musical accompaniment that should play to this bubbling of superheated water? Does it feature drums, violins, or pianos? Is it a soft voice or a bombastic rap of arrival and disappearance? Personally, I hear birds in the distance and the sporadic hiss of gas rupturing from the depths.

This is you splayed out flat. Bacterial mats, hydrological functions, pathways, things carrying information, and various decorations. You, too, are a biological entity, and while you may choose not to see it here in Yellowstone, just like the rest of our planet, we are part of an enormous living thing oblivious to the symbiotic nature of it all. We stroll atop things with egos that hold us outside of the planet that is solely responsible for our potential existence.

Our fragility stops us from diving into the boiling pit of beauty, not just that our organic being would be boiled off of our bones but metaphorically speaking too, we cannot jump into the boiling pit of knowledge as our minds would be boiled out of our sanity and so we are rendered small, petty, and often stupid. We stay safe behind the signs others have put up for us as we cannot comprehend where it’s safe to tread.

Ah, the perfect metaphor for John can be found right here in this crusty corner spouting off a bunch of hot water and gas. Nature, in this sense, is lucky as it doesn’t require words to convey the message of what it is while we humans attempt to be like nature when we put our most beautiful people forward, but isn’t that denying the intrinsic nature of what people are, the sum of their words?

And don’t think for a moment that art is not the sum of a human’s words. We could not paint without the knowledge that pigments are able to stain a surface and that we can exercise control to determine if the strokes are horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. We either mimic patterns already seen, or maybe we stumble into inspirations, but still, they are tools being utilized by a mind that has assigned a linguistic value to all parts that will be utilized to create something.

This luxury we have to go about our world outside the biological function of requiring food and shelter has allowed us to be witness to this beautiful flow found in nature and copy it so we might adorn ourselves or our dwellings with the aesthetic sights we’ve witnessed. Using technology from the earliest cameras to our current age of digital imaging, we have made those things of earth and universe portable. Instead of needing to experience nature on strictly its terms, we package it up and carry reminders with us wherever we might go.

This is Turquoise Pool at Midway Basin, but it’s not the Turquoise Pool I’ve known. I did not know Turquoise Pool because Turquoise Pool is not knowable. I’ve seen this pool before; I know I have, but then why do I not really remember it? Because, like me, it’s changing. Were its waters hotter or colder the last time we were here? Were the conditions dryer or wetter? What of the sun? The characteristics of nature are forever changing, though it may be difficult to determine just how or when they changed.

Sure, this is a slightly different viewing angle of Grand Prismatic, but I couldn’t choose between the two, so just as we stare at it for an inordinately long amount of time, why not offer the chance to see it as we do in the park where we look from multiple different spots along its bright orange shore.

Have I written this before that I don’t believe we’ve ever seen the center pool at Excelsior Geyser Crater? Maybe we have, but who cares, as this will forever be the way I saw it for the first time on this visit.

Here we are on the Fountain Paint Pot Trail, just getting lost in the park instead of starting our drive home as though one more minute, one more geyser, one more time holding hands and smiling at each other will sear the important stuff into our memories never letting them go.

Clepsydra Geyser as seen close up and zoomed in.

Clepsydra Geyser as seen from a different angle. Like the Grand Prismatic above, it’s not just seeing a thing but taking the time to see it again and again, so you might appreciate its various characteristics that you’ll only want to see yet again. The hopelessly insatiable desire to fall into beauty holds us tight, allowing the justification to go further.

Silex Spring on the way back to the car and now we’re satisfied.

Hey Reason,  it’s only 22 miles to Norris Geyser Basin, and should you never be able to return to Yellowstone, wouldn’t you want to know you saw it all on such a nice day?

The rugged moonscape of Norris is like a wholly different environment where the elegant grace found in the other basins has been stripped away. The ground is hotter here, too, making me wonder if this won’t one day be where the volcano we are walking upon today erupts.

And with this photo, we bid adieu to Yellowstone and make our way to the exit, seriously this time.

We needed to get south with no small amount of haste, so we were relegated to taking photos from the moving car, but that’s okay as it feels like we had a satisfying, immersive moment in America’s first national park. I wonder how long it will take before we return.

Scattered Light

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Most of our Yellowstone sightseeing has been on backcountry trails so far, but the allure of the geyser basins begs for us to visit, and this morning, we finally gave in. It was sunrise at Biscuit Basin when I shot this photo, and it was the scattered light pushing through the steam and the shadows created by the tree that painted this canvas.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

I took a step back and found this view just as appealing, so I thought, “Why not continue this theme?”

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Then, a step to the left created the impression of the light and sky in motion. How was I supposed to choose just one image?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

After that brief visit to Biscuit, we headed over to Midway Geyser Basin.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Up close, we were offered an extremely steamy view of Excelsior Geyser and Grand Prismatic Spring, so steamy that I couldn’t capture a worthy photo of the Grand Prismatic, but this one of Excelsior works.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Over to Firehole Lake Drive.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Where were we again when we stood next to this stream?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Today’s hike was the South Rim Trail that took us up and down 328 steps of the Uncle Tom’s Trail into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone for a fantastic view of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Sure, the falls are incredible but don’t forget to take a closer look at the canyon that is worthy of admiration too.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We continued on the rim trail to Artists Point and some mud pots.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We then looped back to the parking lot via a forest trail taking us past Lily Pad Lake and Clear Lake.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Passing old dormant springs along the way, we ended up in a large meadow.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The light, flowing patterns, and surface tension all worked to create this abstraction of a face that will never be seen in nature, just like this ever again.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

And then there are patterns that convey no hint of anything other than the peculiar color and shading that comes with bacteria and minerals flowing and cooling off at different points on the surface of what lay before us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Don’t stop; just keep on going while the daylight invites you to enjoy what your eyes can find.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We gotta keep on going up the trail as we have no idea what is just around the corner.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Ah, more beautiful stuff.

Part 2,704 in the series of “Caroline Standing In Water.”

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

For a moment, I thought this small geyser might be my sunset photo as the golden light of the late day caught the eruption and steam billowing off it, but then there was this…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…maybe if I was better with Photoshop, I could have gotten rid of the lens flares, but when you are out taking hundreds of photos and posting so much of your travels, there’s only so much time to dedicate to these things. What’s important is that an impression made in our eyes and minds was captured and at some point in our futures, the images will resonate in such a way with us that even flawed photos will bring us back to this afternoon in Yellowstone National Park.

Mount Washburn

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Up before 6:00 to get breakfast out of the way and be on the road north so we might beat any crowds that could have the same idea we have for our day.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Trekking up the mountain was great in the early morning, except for the 1300-foot (396m) elevation gain.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Along the way, we passed a large herd of bighorn sheep that paid us absolutely no mind as we and other hikers went by within eight feet of the resting animals.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Thank our lucky stars, we made an early start on hiking Mt. Washburn in Yellowstone National Park. Not only would today be in the 90s (33c) but by afternoon, the mosquitoes, deer flies, and horse flies were unbearable. The peak of Mt Washburn is up at 10,243 feet (3122m) and offers the best view of Yellowstone and the surrounding mountain ranges, including the Grand Tetons, the Bear Tooth, and the Absaroka.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

On the way up, I was forced to take many breaks as not only the elevation took its toll, but so did my extra weight. On the way down in the afternoon, we could not stop more than once or twice due to the mosquitoes buzzing about our ears, threatening action while the flies were all business: one moment of pause and they hooked on for a mid-day snack.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is our sixth visit to Yellowstone, and not a single corner, bend, or spot in the park is so familiar that we can overlook it.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Mammoth Hot Springs was convenient enough to drop in on, and although we were supposed to be focusing on new places, we couldn’t help but revisit the familiar.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Not two hundred feet away and everything looks different.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Not the best photo of a bear, but a bear.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

It’s all so beautiful we just have to grab more photos to drag home with us.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Around this time, we started getting bored, so we made our way back to the Old Faithful Inn, took up seats at the sports bar, and watched something featuring a ball and a bunch of men running around; just kidding, there’s no sports bar at Old Faithful Inn, we had to watch this in our room. Ah, just kidding again; there are no televisions at Yellowstone. Come to think about it and if I want to be truthful, we don’t watch sports, and we certainly didn’t get bored.

Yellowstone

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Idaho State Border

We zipped past Salt Lake City early in the morning, entering Idaho before 10:00 a.m.

Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

By 1:00 p.m., we had reached the Montana Stateline, and fifteen minutes later, we drove through the gates of the world’s first national park – Yellowstone.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

With almost 1000 miles (1564km) behind us, we are ready to start our sixth visit here. This time, we had planned to take in sites unseen on previous visits, so shortly after passing through the front gate, we stopped at the Two Ribbons Trail and took an easy 1.5-mile (2.3km) walk down a boardwalk along the Madison River.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is the kind of nature we can get behind…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…this kind, not so much.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

A visit to Terrace Springs took only a few minutes.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Hello, Mrs. Elk.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

A little further north, Caroline suggested we check out the Monument Geyser Basin Trail.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Why did I agree? This short but brutal hike took us up the side of a mountain with more than 600 feet (182m) of elevation gain in less than half a mile (800m).

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We always need a visit to West Thumb…

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

…for a view of the Fishing Cone on the lake and everything else at this southern end of the park’s geysers.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Looking a bit too stormy, so we better head to our magnificent hotel.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

After we checked in at the Old Faithful Inn, it was time for a walk here on the Upper Geyser Basin.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Of course, our walk should be under a beautiful sunset.

Blue Star Geyser at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Blue Star Spring in the Lower Geyser Basin, taken during our after-dinner walk, wasn’t blue at all in the golden-orange light of the sky.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Life is good.