Back in June, I wrote how I have found myself sixty miles from home out west in the small community of Tonopah, Arizona, volunteering on a small all-natural farm. Then the Summer heat put a stop to that as outdoor work became next to impossible. As Summer drew to a close, my uncle broke his hip and I missed the preparatory work that went into bringing the farm back into shape for the Fall/Winter season. Today I am driving back to Santa Barbara to help my uncle as tomorrow is the day he will be released from the nursing/rehabilitation center and go home. On my way out west to Southern California, I stopped by the farm to check progress and torture myself with all that I have missed out on. In two weeks Rob will reopen the farm stand which will be expanded into a mini farmers market with a number of new vendors on hand. My time at the farm was brief as I still had another 450 miles ahead of me.
I’ll Take The Low Road
Two and a half years ago, I posted another photo of this map, which is quickly becoming more tape than paper. The map’s backside holds what must amount to yards of tape since the seams tend to fall apart after years of opening and closing this much-loved map. Many roads have now been traveled multiple times; our odometer will attest to the many miles driven north, south, and north again along the Oregon coast, for example. If you look closely and compare maps, you will see we have added a circumnavigation around Lake Michigan. In Maine we added Madawaska and Lubec to the list of furthest points outward that can be traveled in the lower 48 states; they join mile marker zero in Key West, Cape Flattery in Washington. By the way, we also found the geographical center of the United States, which lies in Lebanon, Kansas. Small sections of the eastern seaboard were driven, as was the shoreline of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence Seaway. We flew into Oklahoma City and made our way to Yarn School in Harveyville, Kansas, and prior to that spent the 4th of July in Canadian, Texas, visiting a rodeo and an old-fashioned town parade. A few small stretches of secondary roads in New Mexico were taken as prizes, adding to our road collection. Our upcoming travel plans will take us back to Oregon in November, Yellowstone in January, and the Northeast when my mother-in-law returns in April; not until next Thanksgiving will we likely see virgin road when we land in Atlanta, Georgia, for a road trip through the Old South. I don’t think many people outside of Presidential candidates will ever have the opportunity Caroline and I have made for ourselves to see so much of this great, big, beautiful country
Tranquility
Although back home now, I cannot leave the images of autumn behind me. From the falling golden leaves to the golden sunsets, I bask in the beauty nature throws upon my eyes. In two short days, I will return for a fortnight to Santa Barbara to continue helping my uncle in his recovery from having broken his hip. Prior to the Presidential election, I will return to Phoenix to vote and then back to California until my uncle has been cleared to once again drive and bear his full weight upon his hip. But for now, I want to have as clear a mind as this late afternoon sky possessed; I want to rest in the same calm, warm light before once again entering the emotional maelstrom that envelops a frustrated and depressed elderly uncle. Today’s photo was taken a few days prior on Lake Michigan.
Going Home
This morning, we flew out of Chicago and back into the desert. I really have no impression of the windy city as we only used it to begin and end our vacation. To be frank, I have little interest in big or even medium-sized cities anymore. I haven’t yet tired of looking out over a cornfield and I thrill at peering into the depths of a forest. I’ll get down on my hands and knees to inspect newts, mushrooms, and the minutia of the forest or desert floor, but am rarely impressed with architecture when it comes to blanketing a landscape to obscure where nature had previously been. Sorry, New Yorkers, but a really big park doesn’t represent the wild as I have come to appreciate it. Then again, I have never really seen the wild – only the remnants of what remains.
Covered Bridges and Canoeing
Well, here we are, checking out a few of the 98 remaining covered bridges that still exist in Indiana. Only Pennsylvania and Vermont have more of them, while over in Arizona, we are one of the 19 states that have none.
Maybe it’s because the architecture of such bridges is no longer in favor that these appear to be so attractive. While I have no idea how often they have to be rebuilt, they do seem to have some durability with the oldest one over in New York dating to 1825.
Hmmm, it would be quite the epic journey to try documenting the more than 850 covered bridges across the country, but then again, that would probably take years to accomplish while neglecting everything else. I guess I can be grateful to see the seven we’ll be visiting or paddling under today.
We are a country where the number of buildings older than 200 years is likely under a few dozen compared to Europe, where there are buildings that have been in continuous use for more than 1,500 years. These random wooden anomalies represent a relatively ancient age here in the United States, though there are people still alive who are older than more than a few of these covered bridges.
In just a few hours, we’ll be seeing this from a different perspective, as in underneath it when we paddle down Sugar Creek.
With no ceremony, training, or others nearby to learn from, we pushed off in our rented canoe from Turkey Run State Park into Sugar Creek.
Two kayakers quickly followed but were soon well in front of us dawdlers. Nervous caution gave way to an exhilarating wow factor as the slow-moving, shallow creek allowed us to float downstream at our own pace, lingering as we came upon sights such as this.
It wasn’t long before shallow became so shallow that our little canoe would get stuck in the sand and gravel creek bed not once or twice but more than a few times. With paddles pushing and our desire not to step out of our canoe for fear of not being able to get back in without tipping it over, we shoved, bounced, and prodded the canoe free and once again were afloat. Until we ran up sideways against some tree limbs.
Funny how slow-moving water picks up speed near rocks and trees. Just before the current promised to roll our canoe, I pushed against a tree and somehow backed us away from the wedge long enough for us to paddle like mad and move around the fallen tree.
Of course, it wasn’t long before the next gotcha moment was bound to happen. We were fairly certain that we could go right over the minor blockage of thin tree branches; who knew that as we entered the wishbone, we would be hoisted aloft as though on a car jack stuck dead in the water.
PUSH, Caroline, no push that way; I said, no, the other way, not that right, the other right, see I told you I’d take care of it.
Fine, I don’t care if next time you canoe on your own. No, I’m not angry, and I’m not yelling; I was just a bit nervous. Well, we made it without further incident.
Maybe you are looking at this creek and are thinking, John, that looks mighty calm, but what you aren’t seeing are those parts where panic wasn’t going to allow me to photograph my own close encounter with death as I laser-focused on yelling at Caroline to get us out the pickle I couldn’t handle.
Our first canoe trip on Sugar Creek under covered bridges on a beautiful warm fall day – a day to remember. By the way, you might notice that this was one of the bridges we’d seen earlier; it’s the Jackson Covered Bridge, built back in 1861.
Phew…she’s still smiling.
Of course, we stopped at Gobbler’s Knob for no other reason than the appealing name.
Gifts from Gobbler’s Knob. Yep, I just love writing out Gobbler’s Knob.
We are heading back to Chicago, Illinois, as this road trip into the colors of fall is about to end. Tomorrow morning we’ll catch a flight back to Arizona and can say without reservation that this has been an incredible journey every minute we’ve been out here.
Traditions
Can you see the dichotomy between tradition and punk rock? Can you sense the metal nature of where we have landed? This is one of the hearts of Amish country, and I can feel the rebellion against conformity in much the same way I did when thrashing on the dance floor of a punk gig where, while slamming, we were tossing off the chains of expectation. Yeah, that’s what’s going on here; it’s in the air. When everyone else is cut from the same fabric of banality, those who are different become the leading edge of revolution.
When I was younger, I thought history was for a boring class of traditionalists stuck in a past in which stagnation was the signature of their intellectual malignancy, tilting into obedient stupidity. It turns out that moving with the times in America means following a pop culture where dictatorial programming pushes the chattel of humanity into consumption at the expense of self-discovery. Negating the toxic move away from traditional things like love, independence, and community, there are still pockets of Americans who understand the value of a lifestyle that doesn’t have to be a reflexive exercise in blind capitalism. So, does this place of tranquility and tradition now represent an ethos that better aligns with my lingering teenage idea of escaping society’s grotesque stupidity? Possibly.
Who knew that mid-70s angry John would slide into flower-loving, leaf-peeping, soft, and fuzzy John who finds greater value in nature and people who maintain traditions against the machine of disposable intelligence?
Elkhart, Indiana, and its surrounding communities are home to many an Amish family. Traditions are alive and well amongst these rural farmers and woodworkers who appear to have little in common with their modern neighbors. The Amish have no automobiles, do not use electricity in their homes, and apparently have no need for cell phones. What they do have is an independence few Americans can understand. Amish grow their own food on land they own, clear of a mortgage that has been plowed by hand with the help of what animals they own. They sell food and handmade furniture in nearby communities, which gives them the cash to purchase particular basics and the fabrics used to make their own clothes if they don’t weave them themselves.
There are no electricity, cable, gas, or credit card bills cluttering their mailboxes. Their vehicles are simple but distinctive black wooden affairs drawn by horses, or they ride a bicycle. Life for the Amish is much the way life has been during the previous centuries since America’s inception, except for the tourists driving through in their cars, gawking, and taking photos as though the Amish were a curiosity in the zoo. Throughout this burgeoning cultural hegemon trying to engulf them, they’ve never capitulated, and to me, that’s a toughness of resolve I can admire.
Now, back up, John, this isn’t a trip of socio-political observations; you are here to admire the beauty of the countryside, so get back to that. Quilts and family-style binge dining must be part of this day, and dropping in on an Amish gift shop would have been a wish by the wife; food will be my wish.
I should point out that I’m fully incompatible with the lifestyle experienced here and at other Amish locations across this area of America as I do not possess the requisite religious beliefs that would allow my integration within this community, but that doesn’t mean I can’t respect the efforts it must take to buttress the encroachment of modernity. Idealistically, I look upon this scene and wish to find my way in, but the die that’s been cast, which paints me as a cynical hedonist, is far too long-established to break out of my trajectory.
I suppose this husband and wife then are quite similar to me and my wife: we go about our routine that’s been normalized for our circumstances. They may be in a good or a bad relationship, just like any other number of couples, but I don’t think that a situation that requires them to dress to community conformity and saddle up their horses is really any different than us meeting the clothing expectations of a corporate entity and our stopping at the gas station to fuel up to ensure we arrive at work on time.
One might argue that these religious communities are indoctrinating each successive generation, but then I’d ask, how is this different than my upbringing in Los Angeles watching the Munsters, eating Lucky Charms because the ad was exciting, and wanting to be the next Joe Namath because others around me were elevating this American football hero onto a pedestal? When it comes right down to it, does anyone in our society live outside the norm of their narrow socio-economic order? We can ask ourselves, does this man love his son and want what’s best for him, or has he relegated that role to electronic devices that influence his child more than a paternal relationship ever will?
The Amish don’t require state-sanctioned approval to operate these buggies. There are no federal mandates regarding safety features, fuel economy, or even how old you have to be to operate one. Children as young as eight years old are allowed to drive a buggy, which sure does offer them an interesting level of autonomy to visit friends on adjacent farms or run an errand. I don’t mean to imply that somehow life is ideal out here or that the Amish have found a kind of super-enlightenment; I think I’m trying to reconcile my own bias as to what it means to be free.
Even the horses of the Amish are nice and polite compared to many of the skittish horses we encounter in other corners of the states. Has anyone ever noticed that there don’t seem to be any dogs on Amish farms?
I wish that this had been my go-kart when I was a kid.
I really don’t have anything to add to this photo other than I liked it enough to want to include it.
I thought we’d be ignored while we were touristing our way through these Amish lands as I was certain that farmers and inhabitants were stared at all the time, but time and again, people were staring back, likely curious why anyone else would want to point their cameras at people who were just going about their lives.
I’ve tried figuring out if these are Amish or Mennonite girls but have come up blank unless gangland dress in the Elkhart area has taken a turn towards wholesomeness.
From the north-central part of Indiana, we took off for the western edge of the state adjacent to Indianapolis for a night in Rockville, which appeared centrally located to a bunch of covered bridges, but somehow, we ended up arriving during Indiana’s largest annual festival that is centered right here in Rockville, and maybe you’ve guessed that it’s the Parke County Covered Bridge Festival focused on the area’s 31 historic bridges. With everything booked, we went on a frantic search for any available room, which proved pricey when we finally found a place in Crawfordsville, nearly 30 miles away.