4th of July – Day 3

Game Ridge Motel Rimrock, Washington

I’m going through the torture of having minimal notes and even a spreadsheet itinerary from this trip over the 4th of July long weekend, but luck or maybe old age would have it that 16 years later, as I try to pull any impressions that were made during this trip, I struggle to find enough details.

So, I end up with relatively weak blog entries where the finer points are slim. In this instance, I’m able to put a shell together and occasionally more things that hinge on the notes that Caroline happened to be keeping. Here in 2020, when I finally got around to this backfill operation, I learned that this motel is no longer on this earth. Only two other photos of the sign are found on the internet, and both of those were taken after the place closed. This shouldn’t matter much, but I don’t believe that 16 years ago, I was able to see that the corporatization of America would start to eliminate small motels in favor of larger, more modern hotels. This begs the question: what incentive exists for investors to build or renovate these rustic retreats that are already cheaper than their big-city counterparts, which draw in a clientele opting for greater conformity?

Rimrock Lake in Rimrock, Washington

Rimrock Lake in better days. I say this as upon looking up the locations of where these photos were taken I found the lake has been nearly drained for farm irrigation. Maybe global warming plays a role, too, but who’s going to admit that in the current political climate? I feel nostalgic for these days early in the new millennium when we were still trying to clean the air and waters of our country. Back then, when we took these long drives, it was inevitable that we’d spend a good amount of time scrubbing the windshield at a gas station, sometimes even between refuelings, as we tried to remove the bugs plastered to our window to the world. Today, we rarely have to worry about encounters with swarms of bugs as it seems our incessant obsession with ridding our crops of pests is delivering results. How detrimental is a situation where humans can have such a large impact on such an important resource?

Waterfalls in Washington

I spent a fair amount of time trying to find these falls that obviously were somewhere between Rimrock Lake and the park entry for Mt. Rainier, but had no luck. Caroline took a peek at Google Maps and came up with Clear Creek Falls, easily accessible from our road.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Mount Rainier in Washington

Excited to enter another national park that is new to us.

Mount Rainier in Washington

Our hopes of things opening up to spectacular views that will invite us to spend the hours of time we’ve allocated to exploring Mt. Rainier are dwindling.

Caroline Wise at Mount Rainier in Washington

This was a surprise find: snow. While it’s foggy up here, the temperature is actually quite nice, so it seemed like a great opportunity to take off the shoes and pose in the snow on Rainier.

Mount Rainier in Washington

We’re not wasting any time hanging out hoping for an improvement in the weather as we’d been warned long ago that we could visit this national park and never see what we came for. Down the mountain, we went on our way through Ashford over to Shelton. I mention Shelton because it was there by the side of the road that we picked up two pounds of cherries, one dark and one Rainier. Caroline nearly finished the Rainiers before we were 20 minutes up the road.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

We arrived in Port Townsend just in time to attend a tiny Low Tide Festival up here on the Olympic Peninsula. If we couldn’t admire mountains stretching 14,000 feet into the sky, we could be just as happy exploring tidepools at sea level. The lady volunteering at the information booth couldn’t believe that we had driven up from Phoenix mainly to experience the exceptionally low tide celebrated by this event. After a short conversation, we headed to the coast to explore.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

Who doesn’t love chitons? The orange part is its foot, and if we look in the gap at what looks like a kind of cable, that’s its gills. Back when we picked this up, smartphones hadn’t been invented yet, so we couldn’t ask Google to show us the anatomy of a chiton to determine what its head was and where its anus was. Good thing we didn’t choose to suck one end or the other.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

On the subject of technology: I shot this image with our Olympus C-5050 Zoom that was able to capture 5MP images. Just that month, in July 2004, Sprint released a phone with a 1.3-megapixel camera capable of capturing 1280 x 960 and sending it wirelessly, a first in the American market. The best I could do with the photos we were shooting during these days was dump them on a notebook so I could clear the memory card and keep on shooting. At this time, I was shooting on 256MB Compact Flash cards that were only $110 each compared to the 2GB cards that were going to come out later in the year for $800 but were targeted at a price too high for Caroline and me. Sixteen years later, I shoot on a 256GB SD Card that cost me about $65 and would have saved over 100,000 of the 5MP images I was shooting back then.

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

Low tide for seagulls is like the buffet for the non-discriminating obese on a budget. Here again, we are confronted with a dramatic change between this trip and the time I’m blogging about it. What I’m referring to is the buffet. By 2020, they are mostly gone. A few exist here and there, and Chinese buffets seem to be going fairly strong yet, but by and large, they have left the dining scene. Maybe Instagram proved to be part of the reason, as just how photogenic is it to shoot a selfie hovering over the restocked fried chicken trough? Then it seems the budgets of the elderly were negatively impacted as the buffet became too expensive even for them. Tie it all together with the much dreaded “Fried Rice Syndrome” caused by the bacteria Bacillus cereus, which propels its victim into simultaneous vomiting and diarrhea, and who really needs that?

Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

We’ve never seen an otter on land. You have no idea how badly we want this marine mammal to be a cuddly, affectionate fellow that would come out of hiding for some belly rubs, but that didn’t prove to be the case.

Point Wilson Lighthouse at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, Washington

At the end of the spit of land here in Port Townsend, Washington, is this lighthouse which is the signal our time out here is coming to an end.

Fort Worden in Port Townsend, Washington

Fort Worden was peeked at briefly before making our way to the car. Not much else to add here, as there are no notes. Even Caroline is unable to pull further memories out of her braincase.

Port Townsend, Washington

When you travel, what are the sights that you need to remember that will remind you of what was enchanting at the time? For us, it’s probably almost everything.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

Creepy hot dogs exposing themselves is just one such sight guaranteed to make us want to return to a spot on the side of the road. Why we didn’t try to get someone to take a photo of us posing with this Discovery Bay icon is beyond me. Sixteen years later, the evil wiener of flashing perversion is a distant memory that has disappeared from the landscape; only his shadow might still exist for those who drive by and remember his unsettling smile. I have to wonder if he’s now a fixture in the Sea Change Cannabis Dispensary that stands at the location.

Lavender on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington

The lavender in bloom acts as a reminder of the lavender coffee we had in Sequim.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

The last time we were out this way was back in November 2002, and the conditions were quite different. Cold and icy come to mind, but on looking at the photos, I see we also had a fair amount of blue sky. The one constant is the green.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

From Crescent Beach over to Whiskey Creek here on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we found a drive that leaves everything to be in love with. The Halibut Hole cabin is an exceptional standout for lodging we should someday come back to.

Olympic Peninsula in Washington

Having visited Cape Flattery on our previous visit, we decided to hike out to Cape Alava further south here in Ozetta on the western side of the Olympic Peninsula. After falling in love with the quiet little town of Forks we are making a return visit to once again stay at the Town Motel.

Note: four years after this visit to Forks, the town was put on the map by Arizona resident Stephenie Meyer, who wrote the Twilight saga featuring glitter vampires.

4th of July – Day 2

Highway 50 Nevada

It was 5:30 a.m. when we hit the road, taking Interstate 50 West, which is also known as “The Loneliest Road” in America.

In Eureka, Nevada on Highway 50

Arriving in Eureka, Nevada, we stopped at the Pony Express Deli, and while it’s under new ownership the breakfast was as great as it was on our previous visit. We weren’t in town long, though, because of the nearly 800 miles we’ll be driving today. From here, we leave Interstate 50 for NV-278 going north.

Cicada on Highway 50 in Nevada

Our breakfast was burritos with eggs, while this cicada enjoyed a cannibal burrito of cicada head cheese scraped right from the half-shell. This was not something we sought out by stopping the car and checking the bushes for acts of such barbarity, but the sound of millions of these seasonal insects was here en masse. Rotting cicada corpses baked in the morning sun while their brethren clambered across the highway, trying to get to the other side before another car passed. When we stopped to listen to the symphony, we were startled by a nearby bush that appeared to shift as the cicadas that were occupying it all moved simultaneously away from the sound of our car door shutting. It was there that we spotted this Alferd Packer of the cicada world.

Leaving these millions of cicadas presented us with a relatively serious problem: we would have to kill more of them. We rolled up the windows tightly to escape their screams and put the car in drive. Maybe we should have tried going quickly, but, like crispy potato chips, the sound of the crunching was intrinsically satisfying, so I crept along in the rising fog of decomposing cicada life juice that was evaporating off the hot street. Dear God, do not present us with such an attack of the senses ever again, please.

Nevada

Green meadows, freshwater, snowy peaks, and blue skies were the nose and eyeball cleansing therapy we needed, and nature delivered after the horrors of our previous stop along the road.

Nevada

We’re now up on NV-225, passing the Wild Horse Reservoir, just enjoying this beautiful summer drive on a perfect Friday morning.

Caroline Wise and John Wise entering Idaho

As we pass into Idaho, the road changes numbers to become ID-51. We are on the Duck Valley Reservation, which is home to the Shoshone-Paiute Tribe.

Idaho

Somehow, we are able to tune in to an NPR station off in the distance, and out here in the middle of nowhere, we are being introduced to the fascinating story of a Hasidic Jew named Chaim who took on the stage name Curly Oxide and joined the underground band Vic Thrill. Next up, we learned that Marlon Brando died the day before. A strange aspect of our travels is that we are mostly off the grid when it comes to current events, and it has happened that upon getting home, we can be in astonishment at what was going on while we were away. Why didn’t anyone tell us of the major news? Maybe they figured we already knew.

Caroline Wise and John Wise entering Oregon

We stayed away from the freeway that would have taken us past Boise, Idaho in order to continue the avoidance of large populations and the frantic nature of cities. Instead, we traveled on the ID-78 towards Marsing, Idaho, staying south of the Snake River, to make our way through Homedale onto State Highway 19, which brought us into Oregon.

Adrian, Oregon

God damn you,  Rocky.

Somewhere in Oregon

Here we are at one of those spots on the map where people will tell others about the “ugly” part of the state. In this case, it’s the eastern edge of Oregon that can’t compare to the coast, the mountains, or the Columbia River Gorge. Well, we are enchanted by the beauty of it all as we drive north from Adrian towards Owyhee.

Somewhere in Oregon

There are more than a few braids of the Owyhee River out here, including this mudflow slicing its way through the heavy, luscious growth. For people needing to drive 800 miles today, we seem to be making a lot of frequent stops. This is the luxury of the long days of summer that grow longer the further north we go.

Jamieson, Oregon

We left the “major” road for Lytle Boulevard that brought us to the John Day Highway or US-26 and the epicenter where everything is happening: Jamieson, Oregon. Note that this is the entire downtown hub of the place that is known as Jamieson; there is nothing else here. You are seeing it all.

Somewhere in Oregon

Somewhere on the other side of Unity, Oregon.

Caroline Wise standing in a small river in Oregon

Caroline’s standing in the Middle Fork of the John Day River somewhere near Galena, Oregon. We have decided to deviate from the itinerary by taking a “shortcut” past Susanville, which travels a more northwesterly route. It’s approaching 5:00 in the afternoon, so maybe we should start paying attention to getting to Rimrock, Washington, where we already have a room booked. As for our shortcut, I swear the road didn’t look that twisty on the map.

Somewhere in Oregon

From County Road 20 over the US-395, there was some spot where we ran out of the forest for a moment, but where exactly we are, I cannot say.

Somewhere in Oregon

We continued on the 395 as far as Nye, Oregon, where the road forked at the OR-74 that became the Big Butter Creek Road. This photo does not correspond to what I’m describing at all, but I have no reference points to explain where we are in this image; I suppose we’ll just have to retrace our steps someday and take better notes.

Somewhere in Oregon

North of Pine City, Oregon, we merged onto the 207, also known as the Lexington-Echo Highway.

Somewhere in Oregon

Not many stops anymore as we could feel the time working against us but we couldn’t pass up a bunch of photogenic horses standing at the fence line looking all needy.

Columbia River in Oregon

We crossed the Columbia River between Umatilla, Oregon, and Plymouth, Washington. Needing to keep up our pace, we drove along the north side of the Columbia on the 14 until we arrived in Alderdale; then we turned right towards Mabton.

Caroline Wise standing in the Columbia River in Oregon

Okay, we can afford one more stop, but only one. The Yakima River was calling Caroline to take her shoes off one more time so she could step into yet another American waterway. It’s already after 9:00 p.m. at this pitstop and we still needed something from Walmart up in Yakima. By the time we reached Rimrock and the Game Ridge Motel, it was already almost 11:00 p.m. Our room way out of the way was only $55, but seeing we would have forfeited that money should we have opted at the last minute to call it quits in Yakima, we drove on into the night with all of these experiences of the day traveling with us.

4th of July – Day 1

Hoover Dam from Arizona

Five and a half days is the drive from the middle of the Arizona desert to the rain forests of Olympic National Park in Northwest Washington. This 4th of July celebration will be spent covering over 3,100 miles (5,000km) as we explore roads and terrain we’ve never seen and some we have. It’s Thursday afternoon at 2:00 p.m. when we embark on the first leg of the trip that will take us north into Nevada.

Hoover Dam from Arizona

Our path out of Phoenix today was via Nothing to Kingman and then here to the Hoover Dam on the Arizona-Nevada border. We’ll skip Vegas because it’s not part of our travel plans. In our effort to cover about 550 miles this afternoon into the night, we’ll even forsake photos to save time.

Sunset in Nevada

Into the night, we continue our trek north with northern Nevada in our sights. Up the US-93, the NV-318 will deliver us at 10:30 p.m. to the hopping town of Ely out near the Great Basin National Park (which is not on our itinerary either).

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 3

Monument Valley in Utah

Oh no, our bonding trip has done what it was supposed to. Here, on the last day of our road trip through a small corner of the Southwest, I’m really enjoying my time with Jessica. We are on our way down this road to make a proper visit to Monument Valley.

Monument Valley in Utah

Into the park we go on a perfectly beautiful day.

Jessica Wise at Monument Valley in Utah

Our visit is brief as we are traveling a little more than 300 miles back to Phoenix this morning.

Jessica Wise at Arizona State Sign

Jessica jumps for joy, believing she survived the trip.

Navajo Reservation in northeast Arizona

Those sheep are carrying away the remains of my kid. I suppose the joke would have been funnier had they been goats.

Navajo Reservation in northeast Arizona

Like all trips from the Wise family, it ain’t done until we get home.

Hubbell Trading Post on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

The Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site felt like a good place for just one more thing.

Hopi Reservation

Oh, but wait, if we turn west instead of continuing south, we can visit the Hopi Reservation. By the way, if you look at a map, you’ll already know I’m zigzagging, as the trading post shouldn’t have been on our route home.

Hopi Reservation

I figured that if Jessica was enjoying herself in the discovery of these remote locations, I should take advantage of our time out here and share as much as possible.

Jessica Wise at the Painted Desert in Northern Arizona

One last photo near where our trip really got underway near the Petrified Forest was taken in the Painted Desert while still on the Navajo Reservation.

The day after the end of this wonderful trip and trying to capture every minute we could before her departure for naval basic training in Chicago, we headed over to a local art theater in Scottsdale for an opening day screening of Fahrenheit 911 by Michael Moore. Little did I know that Jessica had arranged for her father to break his neck to exact revenge for pushing her over the cliffside. As we walked down the left aisle, an old man was bent over on the floor. I never figured that out, so it must have been a setup. Stumbling over Grandpa, probably with her hoping I’d break my neck crashing into the seats, I ended up kicking the guy, relatively hard actually, which had him uttering a gravelly-voiced bark of “Son of a BITCH!”

Jessica and I laughed so hard I was sure we’d be asked to leave the theater. For hours afterward, we were both practicing our best imitation of the old guy cursing “Son of a BITCH!” and laughing as hard as when it happened there in the dark theater.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 2

Jessica Wise on the Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

Our descent into father/daughter madness continues with me scouting the next location to take action. I got it, the old “throw the kid from the speeding train” trick. She must have figured out my dastardly plan and has strapped herself to her seat on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in Colorado. This photo was her laughing at me and gloating, “You didn’t expect that, did you? I’ve got you figured out, old man!”

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

Okay, enough of the drama (I can hear Caroline cackling back in Arizona, “Ha John, you never stop with the drama!”) and so I’ll get serious about this narrative.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

We are having a great time out here, but I’m sure you already knew that by the smiles I’m capturing on Jessica’s face. I’ll need to keep those close to my heart as aging into adulthood, and whatever changes her career in the Navy will bring she risks those eyes of innocence becoming shaded by cynicism. Hopefully, the explorations into experiences will leave her with the idea that there are always possibilities that go beyond what you are leaving behind and that you are always leaving something behind.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

One day, she’s a high school student in rural Texas; the next, she’s traveling in the mountains to an old mining town, but maybe tomorrow, she’s on that raft out there testing her mettle.

Silverton, Colorado

Here we are in Silverton, Colorado, for lunch. Our stopover will be short, and then we’ll be back on the train, returning to Durango.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

We wander around the edge of town, away from the other tourists who are more interested in trinkets and souvenirs, which forces me to give credit to Jessica for sharing my enthusiasm for the spectacle of nature.

Durango Silverton Steam Train in Southwest Colorado

I have to admit that before embarking on this epic three-day journey, I was afraid it might be boring for my teenage daughter. I’m enchanted that she and I are getting along and laughing as much as we are.

Cow Canyon Trading Post in Bluff, Utah

With so much available daylight here in summer, we don’t waste any of it staying in place; we remain on the move. This stop for a photo was in Bluff, Utah, on our way south.

Monument Valley in Utah

Perfect timing to reach our first sight of Monument Valley in the last moments of the setting sun.

Jessica Wise and John Wise at Monument Valley in Utah

I can’t get over that Jessica is not wearing the face of simply tolerating the whims of her father but seems to have eyes that exclaim that she’s having fun. Don’t worry; I do consider that she might just be a good actress and wants to avoid that side of her father she doesn’t really like.

Mexican Hat Lodge in Southern Utah

We had to turn around down near Monument Valley to drive back up through the Valley of the Gods into Mexican Hat where we were staying tonight. When I booked this evening at the “Home of the Swingin’ Steak” I was already well aware of their vegetarian option as that’s what Caroline orders when we are here. The man on the grill is Clint, a legend!

As we sat roadside with the grill swinging back and forth, just as advertised, a dog emerged from the night, and instead of coming up begging for food, it flopped down in the dirt, rolled over, and showed us its belly, putting on a perfect show of total cuteness. A metaphor for a father and daughter known to quibble, just show each other some vulnerability, and you’ll understand how cute the other is.

Jessica Arizona to Colorado – Day 1

Jessica Wise and John Wise in Arizona

Time for some father-daughter bonding, so Jessica and I headed out on the road to torture each other. I mean, seriously, who travels with their 17-year-old kid when said kid actually wants to spend time with a parent? I always thought this was anathema to the very ideas of freedom. And it’s not like we haven’t had a rocky past where Mr. Opinionated A-Hole made his fragile progeny weep giant tears of hurt.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

But here we are all the same, just the two of us testing one another to see who will crack out a giant desiccated car-length turd of despair. This example log at Petrified Forest National Park may not have been a tree at all and could seriously be a T-Rex BM back in the day when Father Tiny-Arms attempted to visit the Grand Canyon but got so pinched in the tension of such an ordeal that this happened.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Of course, I’m just kidding. My heart is not made of stone, and I’m sure hers is not either, though her mother sent me this image claiming it is, in fact, a fairly accurate representation of that cold thing beating in her chest. What I didn’t laugh at was her claim that she’d inherited from me.

Jessica Wise at Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Jeez, we only made it to the north side of the park before I had to push Jessica over a cliff. How she caught that pole is beyond me. I guess if she’s old enough to be heading off to the Navy, she’s old enough to have been practicing pole skills. Oh, did I forget to share that? Jessica needed me to sign off on her early enrollment to join the military, and after a minute of trying to dissuade her, her argument was too strong to ignore. Her reasoning was something like this, “I don’t know what I want to do, and I don’t want to end up pregnant or on drugs, which seem to be the options out here in Florence, Texas.” Well, how do you argue with that?

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Next, I tried the old trick that I’d hidden her birthday present out in the maze and all she needed to do was to brave the heat and hellish sun exposure and start hunting for it. I insisted there was a cash element to it, but she wasn’t biting. I think she knew by this time I would drive away.

Jessica Wise at Window Rock, Arizona (Navajo Nation)

But then there she is, putting on that cute “I’m seriously nice, Dad, but you have issues” smile, and I give in to allowing her to eat. My daughter is a vegetarian, yet another reason to leave her by the side of the road.

Jessica Wise and Colorado State Sign

Jessica exclaims, “What am I supposed to do, just pose here or something?” I responded with, “Look behind you; you are on Highway 666, which seems an appropriate place for the spawn of some evil like you to find your way. I’ll just tell Caroline you got cold feet about the Navy and decided to go nomad.”

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

This is turning out more difficult than I thought, as even up here in the mountain retreat of Mesa Verde National Park, she wouldn’t believe me that her room for the night was in a kiva on the other side of the wall. It’s not that I don’t cherish my daughter, but you’ve never smelled her feet, and if we get to a motel tonight, I’m going to suffer in inhuman ways unimaginable to others. Guys have feet like hers (including the incredible size; I swear if she were shorter, she’d be a hobbit). Her feet are of the kind where you ask people to take their shoes off outside and wash those mosquito attractors before entering the room or just leave them sealed up in their shoes that are probably growing to their feet anyway.

Sunset in Colorado

Wow, we made it to the world’s cheapest motel I could find in Cortez, Colorado. This remnant of dryas would have provided more loft under our heads than the pillows we were given. To add insult to injury, I found us a Chinese restaurant to “dine” at. Anyone who’s traveled America’s minor roads knows, “Never go to a Chinese restaurant in a city under 150,000 people,” and here in Cortez, the population doesn’t even hit 8,500. You wanted vegetarian food, it’s this or Arby’s.

Jessica Going Back To Arizona

Santa Barbara, California

The next day, we took an early morning drive up into the mountains above Santa Barbara, California.

Cold Springs Tavern in Santa Barbara, California

Had a great breakfast at the historic Cold Spring Tavern, which was established in 1865.

Jessica Wise and Caroline Wise in Little India, California

On the way back to Arizona, we stopped in Artesia, the home of Little India, to take the kid shopping.

Jessica Wise with John Wise in Little India, California

She also tried Indo-Chinese cooking for the first time at Rasraj.

Jessica Wise trying Falooda in Little India California

Finally, she dipped into a falooda – a sweet Indian/Persian drink with lots of ice cream, rose syrup, and noodles.